Ve bosh pump will not pull out after taking 4 nuts off what could i be missing ?is there another step for removal that i have missed.I owe anyone big time that can help.I have a gold mine so i will make sure you are rewarded.17 hrs away from help.Thanx DirtHogg
What happened that the pump is coming off ? Read this- especially what the pumpguy sez. HeavyEquipmentForums
In front of the pump on the radiator side is a BIG SCREW PLUG.. u can use an oil filter wrench to loosen it.. Then there’s a pump drive gear, held on with a 22mm nut and washer.. U WILL NEED A PULLER TO POP OFF THE GEAR.. Good luck
And I hope he's got the timing "pinned". Because, if he does get that pump off intact, and sends it to an injection shop, it's gonna come back pinned for #1 TDC timing.
Thanks much for replying,so parked it lunch then thing would not start had a few hard to starts so came with new filter and lift pump replaced ,would build so much pressure pumping that seal around filter was weeping ,we cracked all lines bled air many times .first injecttor would shoot fuel spray but 2 3 4 barley anything let alone spray fuel.Redid cheched lines ran directly into can of fuel so no obstuct from tank bypassed fuel shut off solenoid tested it was good anyways.so thought for sure not enough fuel from pump.almost want's to start like.But no pinned at tdc.pump bosh ve faceing driver not front mount not like older models.something about removing a nut and washer from drivers side looking in thru hole in frame.Not to drop nut or washer will have to pull engine if so.There is hardly any way to see that plate to remove unless removing floor and front in cab plate under sterring?***.Case your stupid design.
Hmm..?? I haven’t seen a Case with the pump mounted at the flywheel. NewHolland, yes.. But they have a cog/gear on the pump drive that slips into a pump drive gear.. and u simply time it and pull the pump out.. Sorry I’m no help.. I thought for sure u were working with “a normal” VE pump..
Thanks for help.So after another day trying to remove ve pump im going to get the zip diskout
NOOO!!! there is no need to do that. You have a Case 445mt engine and it isn't that difficult to remove the IP properly. You need to get a service manual. it will be the best money you ever spent on your machine. Here is an image of the a typical motor in a 580SM series 2. Sadly I don't have a service manual. But it is obvious what you need to do to pull the drive gear off of the pump because it doesn't look like it will come off the engine wit the gear on it.
Just went through that a month or 2 ago. IIRC the timing pin goes in just below the pump and there should be a lock bolt for the pump shaft to lock the pump once the engine is pinned. Yes the gear has to come off, should be an access plate for the gear and as Pumpguy states you absolutely will need a puller to get that gear off the pump shaft. No other way around it.
I opened my mouth a couple of weeks ago and told a customer that I would help him remove HIS PUMP.. it stopped in the middle of 100 acres.. I get there and and it’s a TS100A New Holland.. And the pump is like the one in this thread.. There IS a removable plate in front of the pump.. but the cab is right up against it and no way to get to it.!! Luckily it’s been raining and I haven’t heard anything from him.. but I’m not looking forward to this project.!! I’ve been reading up on it and the way to get TDC is by PULLING THE STARTER.!!!
Removing starter is how the turning tool is installed. Prolly worth the trouble to get exact TDC. It must be 24 carat gold because it costs about $150.00. shesh !!
I’ve got the turning tool but it’ll b a real s o b without the bushing it rides in.!! Everyone else has a hole in the engine or trans case to put the tool IN..
I like that “caution” about the shearing force on the timing pin.. In about the 300 pumps I’ve pulled off a Cummins, I’d be willing to bet that 10 had the pin intact.. lol
I would like to find out what DirtHogg ended up doing..?? Any news DH.??
Last time I just had one of the kids pull on a fan blade or pulley with a ratchet while I popped the pin in.
Did you get your issue taken care of?
Thank-You for the help guys.So here's an update where i'm at with it.So only way to get pump off was with a Mac puller small one.Problem is without a scope,you can only do it by feel.If you drop washer or bolt you are pulling the engine.Honestly would have been faster.So pump was removed i drove it 400 km down the worst pounded out logging RDS in Canada.Then 14 hr total drive.Has pump rebuilt 1800 cdn.Now trick for getting that washer and nut back on is to use a bent awl,just slide washer nut onto awl and put point in end of shaft.Lil trick pump guy passed on.Made sure new transfer pump installed new filter.Engine tdc with a bar because tool is 4 6 weeks out to order for me plus its real money USD.Wrench on fan nut to assist with tdc.Checked on top as well tdc tappets.Still would not start.So tommorow i pull injectors i have the popper tool to atomize see if they spray popped #1 out and was nasty.so im hoping that the brushes i have to clean with will help i have both with kit.12ft of snow made some water into the fuel filter so maybe got into injectors too .Pump was very rusty needed new solonoid was all rusty spring and ball were totally seized so no fuel could leave the pump.After this i might just have to digg a big hole for it with the Hitachi.Redid that pump last year under 1000.cdn 330 series Excavator.Well shall get back to Lu LU as i call her as in lulu Lemon.
No side panels in place protecting the motor from rain and snow ? I had to make a set for my tractor because snow melting on the throttle linkage (cable) would freeze and then I could not move it.
Somebody covered it with a black tarp because of leak in cab.Condensation from 12ft of smow melt freeze ect made incredible amount of water condensation.We were being chased from major snow storm and a worker thought he was doing something good.Good boy thinks ahead but just didnt know to never cover heavy equiptment with tarps in mountains.Other than injectors would anybody reccomend a vieo to watch removing injectors from LuLu and test procedures.Also does it matter to replace copper washers or just put them back same as they came off.Lots of fuel up top almost starts like the 3rd getty up it always started on 4th one with (Cosby Sauce )of course.Is scotch brite and brake clean ok to use or should i just put new injectors in and not even bother cleaning them.I just want to see it run enough to be trailered out of here as running she has worn out her welcome here.Would be a good farming machine.Again Thank-You to those that helped along the way.Know that you are Appreciated!!!
You got that right .
i t's all exposed
Thanks yes still fighting with her LuLu
Thank -You so Much!
Reason pump came off was no fuel could leave the pump was rusted so bad solinoid ball and spring were so rusty that even thowing it hard againt a concrete was would not release it was replced new one.so the new transfer pump would pressure up so much the rubber seal was crying fuel.Also water and what looks to be stuff you would find in a vacume mixed with very little fuel.Could not believe it.
To answer your question about the injector washers… ALWAYS REPLACE THE WASHERS..if injectors were removed.. They’re a crush seal.. basically, 1 and done..& the last thing u want is compression blowing back up around the injectors.. & for goodness sakes, DONT double them up.!! Good luck
Does anyone know if the grid heater could stop the air ,to not make it able to run.Still won't run.we popped the injectors with too 3/4 were carbon closed had to stand on hanble the finally popped and sprayed nice windmill pattern .Seems like out of time to me ?Someone mentioned grid heater could be issue?
Well I hate to tell you this but that IP took a dump and crapped all in your injectors. Time for complete new fuel system.
The only problem with a grid heater is when they don’t work..
Does anyone agree with this 445MT that the starter also injection pump has to come off and there are actual marks on flywheel at the starter mount place that you bar over.Not TDC like i did ? Also is a clogged grill heater not putting air in causing no start.I did replace Turbo as well.New rebuild on Injection pump new lift pump .Popped all injectors plenty of spray on all 4 up top.The Diesel Mechanic we hired worked 2 days on it.Then left with tail between legs ,just can't figure it out.Really?Yep Really.Any Idea's?
Any smoke out the pipe?
1 very important thing u have to remember: 1). the flywheel numbers WILL come up TWICE.. that’s why it’s important to pull the valve cover to make sure you’re on compression stroke & not on exhaust.. QUESTION: 1) was there a timing push pin below the inj pump.?? 2) were u able to get a puller to pop the gear loose in that tight space.?? How did u do it.??
1 more VERY IMPORTANT THING.. U have to rotate the engine in it’s normal direction of rotation.. OTHERWISE you’ll put in a bunch of “back-lash” that could be enough to keep it from starting.??
From the service manual.
We used a scope to see the plate with the nuts access thru the cosby sauce spray hole.Plate was siliconed on with some type of white stuff.Very tough stuff to break that seal .Used razer blade scrapper blade to get it to pop off ,no room for screw driver,also used a lil torch hand held mech had .t did loosen it some.The issue is access ,even putting it back was a nightmare of attempts to tight a space mostly just by feel and scope.,nut and washer were not an issue as a bent awl was used to put washer ,nut in hole on shaft that way could not drop,Then Engine pull time.This Girl LuLu Lemon as i have begin to call is going to beat me i think?Any hail Mar's out there?Like you Idiot why didn't you do this?
Removing the engine or the shuttle will certainly make it easier to R&R and time the pump accurately. IMHO ! I forgot to mention that the geniuses at Case printed a separate service manual for your engine. You may already know that but others reading this may not. That is where I obtained the images I posted. If you want-- send me a private message with your email address and I can let you download mine. I have it in .PDF format. Totally free of course.
Not sure if it was sent or i'm still waiting?Thanks DH
I received your pm this morning. Check your emails for an invitation to download 580SE series 2 manual . I'm going to upload it for you now----. For some reason your pm was closed to receive any reply's. Note-- The 445MT engine service manual is a separate publication. It is an Iveco-- manufactured by Industrial Vehicles Corporation in Italy )
thanks watching for it
Did you download and then open it with a .pdf viewer app. ? I use Adobe DC Pro. I sent you a direct link my Google Drive about an hour ago.
Good to see you back Tinkerer! This place isn’t the same without you my friend.
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