Folks, I'm the new owner of a 3200hr 2014 GEHL V400 from PA. It has some exterior corrosion issues that seemed "normal" for the northeast, but after I got it home and really got into the engine bay, it's clear that this thing was used to push around some kind of chemical. There appears to be dirt and white, round little balls in the bottom of the tub. Is that fertilizer? De-icing? I dunno. But, this is what the resulting corrosion looks like. All my hydraulic lines and fittings are corroded. In a lot of cases, it's just the top, almost like gravity let whatever this stuff is settle on top and start eating away. The stuff comes off, even by wiping it. But, this is a really tight place to work so I'm wondering if people know of any kind of neutralizer that would clean this stuff off? Or, has anyone ever heard of carefully sandblasting the inside of a skid steer? The machine itself is solid, everything works except maybe the AC. The cab is almost mint, so I think it was either replaced or repainted. I'm a total noob to restoring heavy equipment, so forgive any questions that seem dumb. Thanks in advanced for any guidance or tips!
Here is the machine itself.
If it comes off just by wiping it - Road salt..? If it does come off easy could it be pressure-washed off as a starting point..?
what was the machine used for by the last owner? many things are corrosive and its best to find out what caused it so you dont use something to clean or neutralize the rust that could cause a chemical reaction and give off a poison gas..just as precaution....the safest way to neutralize acid is baking soda mixed in water ...
I've seen similar effects on steel from Cattle/Dairy chicken and pig farms. it could be caused by the ammonia from the urine while cleaning corals pens or the machine was stored in the barns. Also as Nige mentioned it could from salt air or from an agricultural chemical supplier. A few years back we looked at buying a used Scissor Lift that was rented to one of the Potash mine contractors for less than a year and the inside of the base looked similar to your pictures. A good cleaning with some de-greaser and hot water wouldn't hurt. As for neutralizing the effects you need to know exactly what your dealing with.
I think that's a good place to start... My best guess is these white balls gave off a powder when shoveling, dumping, etc. and that aerosolized stuff settled on the interior components and all the bolt heads on the outside. I'll start with a pressure wash and see if that takes anything off.
I was going to try a rust-removing jelly on that stuff. I'll try it on one fitting/line and see how the chemistry takes shape...
Why not try pressure washing it first, then maybe the rust-removing jelly will have a lot less material to work on neutralizing.
Agree--I'll figure something out. I would have to load it up onto my flatbed, haul it to a car wash, etc. etc.
Rent a small pressure washer..?
By appearance it seems something has set off galvanic corrosion, that based on Steel fittings into aluminum blocks and those blocks are shiny. Get that rust off washing, maybe even spray vinegar on it LIGHTLY prior to water/soap wash down.
I agree water and soap is your friend here!!
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. If I can get the bottom access plate off, I'll do a soapy cleanse of the tub. I think there is going to be some pretty depressing rot at the bottom of this thing, even though it looks really good from the underside. Crossing fingers.
This may be a case of "I have a hammer, so that must be a nail", but, that sure looks like it probably worked in fertilizer. The "little white balls" sound like it, too. If so, wash it with soap and then flush it with plenty of water. Then, ospho and paint. If that's what it is, you'll never stop the rust unless you completely disassemble it, but you can slow it down.
Its definitely fertilizer. I've seen it many times n have dealt with it more than once. It's a nightmare
Disassembling a machine of this size would be quite an undertaking. The hydrostatic drive is the size of a volkswagon beetle. The drive motors are like medicine balls. But I agree, I need to get into the belly pan of this thing and shut down the corrosion.
UPDATE: I used Rustoleum Rust Remover Gel Spray on a small piece of easily replaceable metal (little hydraulic line retainer plate) and it cleaned it up perfectly. SMELLED AWFUL. But it seemed to remove whatever was on there and/or turn it black. So, I think I will: 1. Pressure wash the interior over a number of days with soap & water. I assume trying to remove or protecting wire harnesses, plugs, anything electrical is obvious. 2. Apply Rust Remover gel/jelly and let that do it's thing for 24 hours. 3. Pressure wash with soap and water again. 4. Assess the damage. I'm not 100% sure if it ate a hole through the bottom of the tub. It may have in 3-4 places. If so, then I guess I've signed up for a complete rebuild. Sigh. I only have a 2000lb bridge crane in my garage and I believe the Cummins QSB4.5 says it's 846lbs. I have no idea what this monstrous hydrostatic drive weighs, but does anyone know if you can pull that all out in one piece? I assume you'd properly support the engine and the hydro, but can the bolts holding the two together support it?
Whaddaya mean “quite an undertaking”..? It’s only a skid steer for crying out loud, not a D10. HeavyEquipmentForums
Get it cleaner and DRY, most ag stores around here sell a Rust Converter Primer, I use mine for treating ground engagement tools to keep rust under control. Wherever is rusty will turn black and then can over paint with a good rust inhibitor as Rust Oleum. Is generally a brush on application but can be applied like a firehose with a airless sprayer.
Ha ha true. But this thing weighs over 10,000 pounds. I've been staring at the lift arms for a few days, I can't imagine how heavy those are, and how to get them off. I'm setting up a 2000lb bridge crane in my garage but I'm not positive those lift arms don't exceed even that.
Thanks for the advice. I found the rust-remover gel did the same thing: turned the rust and whatever else into black sludge, that stunk really, really bad.
That is the reaction taking place, Corrosion vs antagonist. As to Lift arms, took the arms off a Allis 7G loader with a another one(Similar in size to a 951 Cat), weight as calculated was near to three ton so I doubt your machine arms would be that heavy. Set that assembly on a trailer load of scrap with a farm tractor.
fertilizer corrosion is like cancer and if that machine was used in fertilizer or other corrosive environment, be prepared for any and all electrical problems.
Why would you tear down a working machine for some rust. Just continue on with the cleaning and preserving what you can get to and then put it to work. There is nothing you can do about the damage that has already gone too far except fix as fail.
I agree with that sentiment. In the near term, I mainly want to stop the rust on the hydraulic lines and fittings--and get the remaining fertilizer residue out from inside the machine. In the long term, if I ever muster up the willpower and desire I'll pull out the engine and hydraulics and fully refinish the interior. I'm not really bound by any work schedule with this thing, so I'm entertaining various levels of repair/restoration/saving at the moment.
Once you wash the insides out the rust process will halt. After that I wouldn't worry about the rust that's already there. It's ugly but it won't hurt anything, you'll hardly ever see it, and removing it would take a huge amount of time and money. I'd just wash it out *very* thoroughly and enjoy it.
Round little white balls could be urea, ammonium nitrate, calcium chloride, or probably a few other kinds of fertilizer or salt. I think you're on the right track, pressure wash, but not near electrical connectors, rinse those with water gently and for hours, spray your electrical connectors with silicone spray, phosphoric acid of some sort (your rust remover spray, ospho etc.), maybe oil up the rusted areas, maybe zinc rich primer then oil, maybe and undercoating like boeshield or fluid film. DON'T put a thick paint over any existing rust, there will still be traces of salt or fertilizer to keep the rust going under the paint. Mildly acidic water is supposed to be better for rinsing salt residue off, like typical rainwater.
You are saying the lift arms you removed weighed 6000lbs?!? Damn that's heavy.
Thanks for the advice, it really gets you to thinking... It seems more practical to simply apply some type of oil or anti-rust protectant (Amsoil Metal Protector) that is easy to apply, and just do it periodically--like every 1000hr service or annually.
Here is an up close look at the "sick" inside my poor skid steer. Before you comment about the bondo, I'm using this as an opportunity to practice some body work on something that "doesn't really matter". I want to see how well, and how robust I can repair corrosion.
To be honest that looks like Phosphate I hauled a few years ago, nasty stuff.
Yeah it's gross -- it has a certain smell to it. It's nice to get it out of the tub and have the thing airing out. It seems like it has a fairly slow activation time when in contact with moisture so at least I have a bit of working time when pressure washing the inside of the tub. I'm trying to be very careful and not hit electrical connectors, and when I do, compressed air them out right away. Crossing fingers... will keep this thread posted.
Definitely fertilizer. Look.up rust guy. It does a wonderful job stopping rust a special paint or primer
Looks like nitrogen fertilizer "Prills". Not only used in fertilizer mix, but also used with diesel oil as a blasting agent. Nitrogen would explain the rust you are finding. Get that stuff pressure washed off as soon as possible, then use a rust convertor, as mentioned, before repainting.
D10's have access to the components!!!!
If it's fertilizer there are none of the original connections left... my bet, those places wire everything direct
Yep, WE damn sure do. A connector in the dumpster won't stop a machine over and over!