Got out on this one last week...every hose was cracked and brittle so I replaced them all. Had one hose that was weeping diesel right in the middle. So anyway the customer shot me this picture and says it is still leaking from the IP. Last time I just figured it was the hose end/clamp and that replacing it would fix it but apparently not. The thing is fed from a diesel tank a few feet higher so it has some positive pressure all the time. I checked the injection line nuts, and the fuel inlet banjo was very tight. Are there gaskets in this IP or rubber seals that like to leak?
Got the customer to point at it for me. Ugh, looks like something internal maybe.
That's what we call a NO PROBLEM.. Lol IF it leaking on top where his finger is.. There is an oring.. IF its leaking at the flange BELOW his finger under the flange where the 5 sided bolts are.. THATS A PROBLEM you don't wanna mess with.. Look at the fuel inlet bolt w/ a mirror.. there are 5 #'s stamped into the mounting flange,to the right of it, the 2nd # will be a 3. . I need all those #'s to get you the P# of the orings.. you better change all 3 to be safe.. Change 1 at a time and torque the top nut to 35 ftlbs.. easy money.
OR you can REALLY make some $ by taking the pump off & repairing it OFF SITE.. 1 tip tho.. VERY IMPORTANT>>Take the shut off solenoid off 1st.!! its the "red bull" looking can to the left to the inj. pump.
Do you suppose Perkins themselves will have the correct oring part number in stock by engine serial number? I have to order other parts from them anyway.
Looks to me to be about $325 pump rebuild + a half hour to take off, and put back on. A very easy repair, even for a diesel novice, like me. I know, cause I did mine, last year...
Number is 43032
HEY DAVE.. is that what I charged you?? lol The P# of the oring is> 016500-1520> Zexel P# Perkins isnt gonna have them, they didnt make the pump.. Search it on the web or call your local injection shop.. They'll probably have them on the shelf..
Nope, it was Arundel diesel... Took your advice, though, and for that I thank you... It was an easy job, and well worth it to stop the leak!
So Dave, was yours leaking from the orings or deeper? Were you able to tell the difference before pulling it?
Mine was leaking below the 5 sided nuts. Way I figgered it, do the rebuild, and both problems were fixed, with a minimum of downtime...
Well I went back to the site and did a bunch of work. Changed out a water pump and such. I also changed out the orings mentioned above. Had to try it, they were not cheap but much cheaper than another service call. Unfortunately it did not fix it. Fine fuel spraying out under the #3 plate held on by the 5 sided nut. Off it came and I sent it to the rebuild shop. Question now. At what level of rebuild will the pumps need to be retimed. Right now it has a #2 timing shim/gasket under it. Should I get a new one to prevent oil leaks? Or just slap it back together?
Call the "rebuild shop" maybe they can tell you..
mine's running great, just using the OEM shim. I sprayed a thin film of copper gasket sealer on it...
I never had one of those apart before. I did take one out because it wouldn't run (rack was gummed up and stuck at no fuel). Cleaned it up and stuck it back on. Good to know there are o-rings in there.
Love the avatar 92U.. Kreiger?? Their right.. no new shims required.. maybe just a light smear of your favorite silicone, if it makes you feel warm & fuzzy.. I've never had 1 leak in 30 years w/ nothing on it.. its just "splash" oil.. no pressure behind it..
So I have this same issue on the perkins made cat 3013. Is there not orings below the flange the 5 sided nuts hold down? I really wana try fixing it before sending it off and have the socket to remove these nuts why is everyone so against trying? I also replaced the top o rings with metric viton o rings from harbor freight and they were an excellent substitute cost about 99 cents. However the leak was coming from below so the o rings did not solve the fuel leak. (Personally owned farm machine) @thepumpguysc
Yes, there r 2 identical orings on each barrel flange.. so 6 total. The reason it’s not advised is, the flanges are cut oblong at the bolt holes..& that’s where u set the equal delivery on each engine cylinder.. & that’s why there’s 5 sided “tamper proof” bolts.. BTW.. if ur going to remove the pump from the engine, U MUST remove the shut off solenoid FIRST.!!
Just remember, it costs extra if u try and fail.. call it a couriosity tax..
If I remember right, the rebuild cost me like $300, maybe a little more. If you are taking the pump off, you might as well rebuild it, and save the time spent jacking around, just to find out you have to do it again...
They mostly seem to fail when they are old and tired anyway, or water got in and damaged, so might as well send it off, it's an easy job to get it off of there.
The orings on the pump now aren’t Viton.. the new ones are. It’s amazing how flat and hard they are.. Just remember to unscrew the solenoid FIRST..
Yea I guess I’ll have it rebuilt, I just have a feeling it’s just those o rings. It’s a low hours machine if that means anything. Sucks to spend 300 or any dollars really when it may be possible to just pull replace and reinstall.
Nobody said u can’t do it..
Could I remove the fuel lines and then Is it possible to leave the pump installed and simply take off the 5sided nuts remove the barrel and replace the o rings? That seems like the simplest solution, let me know what you think thanks. @thepumpguysc
Yes, that’s how most people do it..
Also I appreciate your timely responses thank you so much for taking time out to talk to me can’t thank you enough!
Would I still have to take the shut off solenoid to do it that way?
No.. u can leave the solenoid as is.. IDK if u know it or not but the 5 sided bolts are TIGHT.. VERY TIGHT.!! I use a hand impact driver and have to smack it 3-4x to get them loose..& I use the same count to tighten them up.
I’ve read on other forums that u can buy the socket online.. (Overseas/Aftermarket)
So whoever said curiosity tax was right. I ended up getting a socket and attempting to change the o rings. I however was a cheap ass and tried to use to big of orings. While re installing I used a rubber mallet to tap them back down due to the oring being to tight. During that “tapping” process I must have somehow bend the rack just slightly unable to be seen by eye. Upon starting the machine I had a run away senario and had to shut off motor by pulling fuel lines. I then removed the shut off selinod and the rack was stuck in the wide open position. I had to use a punch to tap the rack into the motor housing to even get it removed from the motor. Once removed from the motor I rebuilt the pump from top to bottom 75 times. I just can’t get the rack to slide well. It bounds up and is very hard to move. The shut off selinod will never have enough pressure to move the rack and shut fuel off. I some how managed to turn a 30 cent o ring into needing an entire fuel injection pump. If there is a silver lining I know so much about the pumps now and I feel confident talking about them and know how they work now. I still have no idea how that rack got messed up just by the slight tap of a rubber mallet but I’m here to tell you that very much happened. That being said I’m looking for a zexel 104134-3000 pump for a 2004 cat 3013 motor (Perkins). If anyone has any leads on a decent pump please let me know.
ROTFLMAO.!!!! I can probably fix it.. I googled the number and there’s a couple for less than 600.00 but they’re overseas..
I bet you could have fixed it, however in my even more stubborn cheap ass ways I tried sanding down the rack a little and now I’m almost certain the rack and the pump housing that holds the rack is forever ruined. Expensive lesson to learn and even dumber decisions were made after. Yea I seen those couple on eBay for around 550$. I just didn’t think you would recommend purchasing them. Coming from china would you think they would at all be reputable? I’m seeing horror stories about buying fuel parts from over seas, wrong plungers/misfiring injectors/ect. Your the pump guy so I’m asking for advice (that I will actually listen to this time) lol would you roll the dice on an eBay china zexel pump matching that part number?