Hi guys I have a 5000 hour year 2015 130 -5 hitachi that keeps draining the battery power over a period of 2 days if not started Iv narrowed the problem down as to the unit drawing the power after checking all the usually simple ones first , alternator , diverters , lights , glo plugs etc It’s the ecu mounted behind the seat in deep under the back window that’s the issue . If you plug it out the draw stops . Fuse number 10 if you pull it Also stops the power draw which is a controller fuse Gps sender unit is not responsible it’s ok . Anybody any idea what can be wrong in that ecu? Is it a common fault ? Any ideas best way to fix? Any pointers would be appreciated Jay
The No.10 Fuse is not only supply power to MC (Main Controller). It's also supply power to GSM box and Wiper/Light Controller. So I suggest separating each control box to find the damaged one. Attached Electrical circuit diagram below for your reference.
Hi Lachau, really appreciate the help well done, we have actually plugged out the 2 plugs going into the MC controller. The 2 to the left as u look back from the seat ie. furthest away from the door side. See pic plugged out And that stops the power drain. Does that tell us anything? electrics not my strongest sorry. Jay
That means a little bit leaking inside MC. It's difficult to solve. We usually have tried to dry MC, the other dangerous way is make a switch to cut-off the line from Fuse No.10 to MC.
Does this make any sense . The picture I have above, If I just plug out the left hand plug there is still a power draw . But if I leave that plugged out and plug out the gps unit the power draw stops However if I plug back in either of the two of them on their own the power draw starts again Ie if I leave the plug out of the ecu and plug in the gps the power starts draining again Like wise if I plug in the ECU plug and plug out the gps the power draw starts again also ?? Confused dot com .
What are you measuring draw with?
Thanks for reply, Well honestly its really only a make shift amp meter. It looks like its drawing 2-3 amps. But im not 100% Sure there be a particular draw do you think? Or do i need to find an accurate measurement ? with ?
2-3 amps would be too much. That would definitely draw a battery down pretty quick. Some manufacturers will give a maximum of 100 milliamps (0.100 A), but me personally and from experience I draw the line at 50 milliamps (0.050 A). Keep in mind with today's electronics you could see a spike of 200-400 milliamps (or more) when the battery connection is made for things like capacitors in controllers to charge, then the milliamps will drop to acceptable limits. I cannot speak for all manufacturers but some might take longer for the controller to go to sleep. That is why I use an amp clamp to check for draw so I don't have to disconnect the battery to put an amp meter in line. That way I can wait a couple of hours if necessary to make sure all controllers are asleep. They each drew 2-3 amps individually?
Thanks Mg Yes they seem to be drawing 2-3 amps individually , but i better try and get an exact measurement for you. Appreciating the help. can you clarify one thing for me, can a faulty component example lights or quick hitch still be drawing through the Mc ecu when the machine is off???. Obviously with an ECU is working correctly, or should Ecu kill all power? to them components.
I'm not sure what the 130-5 MC is controlling. I would have to study theory and a schematic to know the answer to your question. Usually anything powered by a controller would be shut down at key off (though it may be on a timer until shutdown). Maybe Lachau can supply the quick answer?? But since you have draw on 2 different controllers I would wonder if they have something in common??
From reading my other posts on HEF you may notice I like KISS. So John if the machine is working correctly and you are doing your head in trying to fix this little problem, why not install an isolation switch on the positive battery terminal or the power lead? Switch it off at the end of the day and enjoy life KISS
Hi all I’d just profeer to figure out what the issue is . Actually have fitted an isolation switch already. Got an amp meter reading this evening. The Storey is With everything plugged in and ignition off the draw is .5 amp If we plug out gps unit it drops to .4 amp If we plug out ECU drops to 0 , no draw
I know the amp meter isint finite enough , but all i can get my hands on. if anything the longer u leave the meter on it it drops to .3 -. 4 amps without plugging out anything. My presumption of an ECU was that it would stop a current draw when its switched off? have i that wrong. Is it possible a faulty component can be drawing power though the Ecu even when off?
It is normal for a controller to remained powered for about a minute then the draw should drop. It usually drops instantly, not gradually. It should drop to about 0.025A (don't know if that meter is that sensitive). But .3 to .4 amps is too much.
Thanks MG , ya i know the meter i have is not good enough. And yes u can see the power dropping off as the machine shuts down after key off. Takes about 20-30 seconds . but im left with that heavy draw of that .3/.4 amp , so i have an issue some bloody place. Bloody head wrecking, if it wasn't a fresh machine i wouldn't mind , the dead man would be fine.
On all Hitachi (and Deere) excavators it takes about that long before the battery relay disengages.
Yep, should be a master relay right at the batteries, make sure it's dropping out. Look for any wires connected directly to the batteries, or the unswitched terminal of the relay. Typically for a radio, fan, lights that get added. If nothing has been added then you're down to the single circuit going to the key switch which usually has no draw on it. Unless like new cars there's a key off feed to keep some modules memories intact, like the damn dome lights and radio presets.
Hi lantrax Yes master relay is dropping out I think Is that It in the photo ? Do you believe things like radio can draw through the ecu ? When off Jb
The big round silver can that the battery main lead runs to, and out to the starter. What is that orange wire feeding, and is the red lead connected to the batteries? I don't know this machine, usually there is no power to the ECU after the master relay drops out, that is the reason for the delay, allows the alternator to stop producing power and the ECU to go through it's shutdown routine. I am speaking generically, as I said I am not familiar with your machine. Typically the only circuit that remains connected is a single lead to a terminal on the key switch, which is used to engage the battery relay when the key turns to the on position.