Hello guys, I've recently found a Hitachi EX200-2 for sale, a 1993 model, with a blown computer. The seller tells me there's a capacitor that blew up in the bottom computer. Are these computers hard to find and what would I expect to pay for one? What are the chances of just soldering in a new capacitor and the rest of the computer being OK? Just wanna get my ducks in a row before I go take a look at this machine...
Should be able to find one at a salvage fairly easy. Is that the one on kijiji.
i had a volvo excavator computer go down and it cost me about $5000.
Taco, yup, that's the one... I found it on craigslist, had no idea it was on kijiji too...
darnit, it sold.......
Its back on Craigs list, says the deal fell thru.
Hold on there! There are I believe about 6 different PVC for that machine (EX200-2). The computer and the valve bank are matched. You have to have the right one for your serial number machine. Hopefully the valve bank has not been changed out. Had one machine with a wrong PVC for its serial number and it operated even worse than it ever did until he got the right one. Capacitor or a resistor gone? I have changed out the resistor AFTER I fixed the reason it blew.
Well, she's mine now Lowbed is going to pick it up on the weekend. I wasn't able to go inspect it in person but a friend who is very knowlegeable with equipment looked at it for me and told me it's well worth what I paid for it so I went for it. KenAl, the serial number is 147-70690, do you know what part number computer will work with it? From what I can gather it's the original valve bank... I'm scouring the used market for a computer now just in case I can't fix the old one...
Dash 2 machines can be a headache First you will want to find the reason that the computer popped. Probably the wirring harness. I would check around the pumps because the muffler is right there and when they rot out they tend to blow hot exhaust on the harness. You can give me a call at 604 856 8281 and we can try to figure this out if you want. Good luck
The part number for that SN: machine is 9125533. Flemings is right you want to find out why it blew. One common problem I have seen many times is the Angle Sensor gets hot and the circuit shorts the power and ground popping the 1 amp fuse for the PVC. (PUMP Valve Controller). Some one puts in a bigger fuse and a resister in the PVC goes. I have replaced it many times but cannot remember the Ohms and the Wattage, been a while. You can also have a pressure sensor shorted to ground and have the same problem.
I'll put 5 bucks on this being the problem.
All great info, thanks guys! I will post more questions and hopefully what the problem was once I get a chance to work on the machine!
I have a 200-3 with similar problems.Machine worked good on saturday and when i started on sunday the hydraulics were very slow,so slow that loading wouldnt be possible.Looked for something obvious but nothing jumped out at me so called dealer and was told they would need to come out and do some tests. I found in the operating manual a procedure where you remove 2 fuses #8 and#9 which i did and it worked good ,only thing is it now kills the engine when cylinders bottom out. Anyone got any ideas ? something else I can check?
I'd put the fuses back in and.... Odds are it's your Angle Sensor because when the angle sensor goes it tends to really slow the hydraulics down put the DP sensor still can load sense and your engine does not stall out. If you try to re&re the Angle Sensor it is very important that you mark the location of the sensor and put the new one in the exact same location. You may also have worn forks where the sensor picks up the angle of the plates as they swash forward and back in the head, if this is the case then the pumps need to come apart. Check that the angle sensor is working by marking the position that it is in and loosen the bolts so that you can adjust the sensor forward or back. You should see a difference in performance when moved if the sensor is working properly. If the adjustment does nothing then you might consider either the angle sensor itself or the wirring as being the problem. If the DP sensor was cooked then you will have good speed but no load sensing and the engine would stall when you pull a function, and if the pump selenoids were done you would loose only a couple of functions but still load sense and not stall the engine. Good luck and let us know what you find
Went back out to machine and when I unplugged the top sensor located on the pump it acted the same as the fuse procedure and was fast but no load sensing and would kill the motor. There is 2 sensors here that are close to eachother but the top one is the one that changed things. Anyone know what this sensor is called? part # and cost? I should check the wires going to it what readings should I get? thanks
If you mean the sensors that are almost side by side Those are called the pump selonoids and they will run you a couple of hundred bucks a peice.
Could get no change when moved angle sensor so removed it and priced out new one $465 .any way to check old one before order new one to make sure its not wires?
Fill me in one more time on what the machine is doing. If it's a load sensing problem you might want to look at the DP sensor. A bad angle sensor will keep the engine loaded even when you are not using any functions and a DP sensor will tend to rear it's ugly head when you try to use a function only.
All the hydraulics are slow,when i remove the 2 fuses that the manual said to get it to a better location everthing speeds up but kills engine when loaded up. I moved the angle sensor to different positions but didnt make a difference. So I am thinking it is angle sensor or wires up to it.
O.k. I don't recall the test for the angle sensor off the top of my head but it does sound like the angle sensor is pooched. I wish I could tell you that there is a cheaper alterative but try Brandt Value parts as they are closer to you than I am and talk to Blain Sornson about getting a good take off sensor. You will have to look the phone number up online as I don't have it readily available I hope this might ease the pain for you a little. Good luck and remember that if you require any component rebuilds be it hydraulic or mechanical that you may want to consider sending it our way for the required work. (too bad it costs so much to lowbed that sucker to our shop !) Good luck Flemings Equipment Services Inc. 604 856 8281
got it fugured out,serviceman was out with angle sensor and installed it and it is back to normal . thanks
200-2 I have a similar problem on a ex200-2 all function are very slow and surging. I'm wondering if there is a way to test the angle sensor since $500 is no chump change. If i unplug the solenoids on top it speeds up but has no load since and kills the engine.
do this steps and tell me whats the fault codes please check this link: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14527336/fault codes.pdf
Thanks for the info I will try it when I get back to the machine this week. Is there a good place to get more pages from that link?
ex200-2 I never get any codes even when unplugging sensor one at a time
do not unplug the sensors. you did not find the correct socket. did you check all the fuses? this diagnostic socket should be in the rear right console inside the cabin bundle with pilot hoses. its impossible if you will not get fault codes. if you unplug any sensor you will have a fault code readings. by the way you will be reading the fault codes on the pvc status light.
Ok the codes on the top computer are 4 and 9. The bottom one is flashing about 15 different codes do I need to worry about those?
ok now reset the code reading as per instruction on page 2 that i gave you. yes. take note of the code readings on the bottom one. tell me the readings.
Ok I'm back to the machine looks like I have a code 22
Finally made it home and got my first taste of the machine. So far so good, the machine runs really nice and makes no strange noises or anthing. I'm going to dig into it after the weekend and I'll let you guys know what I find and of course ask lots of questions when I get stumped!
i have a hitachi ex200lc -2 machine will not shut off with the key.... any sugestions?
keep digging.
^^ :laugh ^^ Have a look at your shutdown solenoid if it has one. I'm new to the EX200-2 myself, not sure what to look for. Mine has a Manual throttle that someone installed that shuts the engine down if moved all the way forward.
Well I took a look into the computer today, I can't see anything out of the ordinary except one long resistor, R1, looks a bit grey compared to the others. Also, the fuse holder for fuse 3 is all corroded and ugly looking. I'm going to try to clean up the fuse holder tomorrow and see if I can't get the computer to give me some sign of life. Does anybody by chance know the value of the R1 resistor in Ohms? I'm thinking if it's bad I'll put a bypass on it with the correct ohms to see if the computer comes back to life. What do you all think? I'll post a picture of my new toy in a little bit.
! Well here she is boys and girls! I drove it off the lowbed and just dug a few buckets to see what the machine is like aside from the computer. It's really nice and tight, no strange noises or surprises! Can't wait to see what it's like once it's working correctly!
That looks more like a 200-1 with a roadbuilder package there,Spitzair.
Nope, definitely a 200-2.
I guess I can't be right all the time! I was guessing you might have bought a grey dash 1 with a hand throttle. Where is she hiding? That doesnt look like the yard you said it was going to....
I moved it home. It's sitting in my gravel quarry. Wanna come take a look? I'll be there all day tomorrow if you do.
Ok, I've got it into the shop last night and tore into it this morning. The R1 resistor in the computer is fried, no voltage going through it, 24V drop across it and shows open circuit when I put the ohm meter across it. Does anybody know what ohms and amperage this resistor should be? It looks like a heavy duty wirewound type resistor. I'm going to desolder it and see if I can't find some numbers on it. Thanks.
Update - I took the old resistor out of the computer and found somewhere that it's a 4 Watt 10 Ohm resistor that popped. So I hauled it into town and lo and behold the local TV repair fellow had one! He even installed it for me right there on the spot! I was thrilled! On the way home I stopped by a friend's place and he has a heel grapple for me, I'm going to pick it up in the next few days! When I came back home I dove into it again and found a bunch of likely culprits to the problem: Somebody had gone in there and "fixed" a bunch of wiring. They for some reason cut EVERY wire going into the control console and put a 4" splice in it, but the way they did it I'm surprised there hasn't been any electrical fires in the machine. They just wrapped the wires together, wrapped a wrap or 2 of electrical tape around it and carried on. They also did this to numerous wires behind the seat and all over the place on the machine. As soon as anything oil based comes near that electrical tape the glue dissolves and the tape slips away. I found many bare joints and I'm sure will find tons more as I continue going through it. I spent the entire day repairing these joints and splices with proper heat shrink butt splices. Hopefully that's where the problem is, and if not I WILL find it and let everybody know! Cheers!
spitzair, i can provide you all OEM electrical parts for this machine at cheaper price.
Thanks rgl726, I'll definitely let you know if I need anything. So here's what I found this morning under the engine: What you're looking at in the 2nd and 3rd pictures are the main wires coming from the battery on their way to the cab and in the first and last 2 pictures is the wiring harness that goes over to the pumps. The same guy who "wired" the cab was also in here and worked his magic. No wonder the computer blew; bare wires and short circuits galore! I wonder what else I'm going to find.........
Just a couple more pictures. This is the harness going to the pumps. The first picture is what it looked like when everything got a drink of brakeclean, the second is after I spliced everything back together and the third is all done in that spot... More to come tomorrow. :drinkup
Ok, got most of the wiring repaired, now I've run into another issue: The big battery relay in the back goes "CLUNK" when I turn the key on but when I go to crank the starter everything goes dark and the fuse for the live wire from the battery blows. If I bypass the relay everything works as it should except now I can't shut the power off... For some reason the relay lets enough power through to light everything up, but not enough to turn the starter. I took it apart and cleaned, sandblasted, etc. all the contacts and put it all back together and same thing again... I ordered a new one but I'm hoping somebody might have some suggestions on what else I can do as those relays aren't cheap... I'm open to any suggestions! Thanks.
Still not working, running out of ideas... Ok guys, what am I missing here? I've repaired all the poor wiring splices I could find and fixed all kinds of other wiring issues I found. So today I plugged the computer in, turned the key and whamo, there goes the fuse. Disconnected everything back at the pumps and the control valve, installed a new fuse, tried again, and wouldn't you know it, the fuse blew again. :Banghead I am going to dig around in it more tomorrow... If in the mean time anybody has any other ideas I'd love to hear them! Thanks.
Phone Leemar and see if they might have a used harness and start over! 250-248-2611
There are pressure sensors on the pilot system below and behind the cab. Also very common is the swing dampener valve solenoid being shorted. Most have been disconnected. You should have 2 #4 pilot lines coming off the top of the swing motor going to the valve. Unplug the electrical from it and I would go so far as to take the 2 pilot lines off and cap the fittings. You will not notice anything.
Disconnect the pvc and see if the fuse blows.
Thanks fellas, 3doc, that's definitely something I'm gonna consider if I can't get this one fixed... Ken, it's not this either, I unplugged every single component and still blow the fuse so now I'm going to ring out all the different circuits and see if I can't find the culprit that way. Fuse doesn't blow with the pvc disconnected cutting edge... I'll report back with what I find...
Your pvc is borked there,Spitzair....I fought with one like this up on the Ashlu for a bit...the only remedy was replacing the pvc. Get a supply post newspaper (they usually have them at the general store in Brackendale) and start calling the wreckers/used suppliers in the classified section.
Leemar probably has a used pvc, Do you need the wiring diagrams.
Thank you very much for that file 3Doc! I'm going to thouroughly read it right now! I took the PVC out and am going through each circuit now looking for shorts and the like...
PVC Toast Well I think I have it narrowed down to the controller being fubar... I disconnected the entire wiring harness in the cab and ran power to it alone through it's fuse and still heats up R1 and then POP goes the fuse... So I guess I'm gonna be investing in a new/slightly-used-but-hopefully-still-good PVC... Is there anybody around that could possibly repair my PVC that you guys know of? Thanks for all the help so far guys, I really appreciate it!:drinkup
Might be a good day to go poking around the old logging company yards and shops for a retired/abandoned machine that could be a donor. I can think of a few right now......
i can supply you a brand new OEM PVC.
Well I've got a new PVC on it's way... Hopefully that will solve the issue! In the mean time I've found a nice heel grapple, at least it will be nice once I fix it up a bit! A friend of mine had it sitting in his yard and gave it to me. I'll need to fabricate some ears and replace all the hydraulic lines on it. Also it looks like somebody may have cut the rotator motor's shaft, either that or it sheared off somehow... I'll have to take it apart and fix it. That brings up another question - how much trouble is it to add a second auxilliary circuit to the EX200-2? I've already got the second pilot valve and switches on the left control lever but the actual second aux. valve is not there, or if it is I haven't found it... It has the piping up the boom but it's been capped off so obviously not used in some time... If anybody knows where I could find an extra valve for a good price I'd love to hear from you! And where do I plumb it in? There's a short flange mount hydraulic fitting on the right side of the main valve that's been welded shut, I'll try to get a picture when I get a chance. I'm just in camp right now so might take a while... Here's a few pictures of the grapple.
Your control valve has an aux. section in it that you would normally run out to the grapple,assuming it has a valve in head,and would the require a second sure grip handle,D01 valve and electrical run out to the valve on the grapple. Youre going to run into trouble figuring out pressures and flows required for that grapple as it is. If I'd known you wanted a machine that could log as well as dig,I would have told you about a decent,local machine that would suit your needs an budget ages ago,that runs and needs minor work,not like the clapped out 200 you're stuck with now. :lol:
Do tell! I don't think this thing is clapped out in the least, just needs some TLC... But I'd probably still be interested in the local machine too! The grapple just sort of came along out of nowhere, wasn't really planning on getting one as I had just planned to run the machine as is with the thumb... But I couldn't pass up on the grapple... Cheers!
Update on this machine, I finally managed to get home late last night after being away for 3 months and put the new computer in this afternoon. With fear and nervousness I turned on the key expecting a flash, boom and a cloud of smoke but much to my delight all that happened was the LED inside the computer flashed on 1 second, then off 1 second, and kept doing exactly that. No fuse blew, nothing got hot, no smoke escaped and my pulse returned to a more normal rate. I started the engine and the same flash sequence continued, so I'm hoping all is well. It started to rain cats and dogs about that time so I called it a day, tomorrow I'll flip the little rod in the pump around so it can go to full stroke and then I'll give 'er a whirl! Fingers crossed i got this thing fixed! I'll update everyone once I test things out!
'Nother update. I put everything together today and went to test things out. The pumps won't destroke and it loads the engine up, lots of black smoke and the engine dies when you go to move a function unless you move it at full speed, then she really flies! I also found that if you press the fast warmup button the window washer fluid pump runs... Sooo I pulled the window washer pump relay and all of a sudden everything worked perfect. For about a minute. Now it's back to laboring and pumps not destroking... Gonna do more digging around in the wiring tomorrow to see what I can find. Obviously something got crossed somewhere... If anybody has any ideas I'd love to hear 'em! Thanks!
After messing around with it for another 2 days and finding all kinds more issues I've ordered a brand new wiring harness... There are so many bypasses, wiring splices and shortcuts in there that I don't even know where to start fixing them... Me thinks if everything worked before the computer went south and then worked for a minute or 2 I would think all the sensors are working... I'll let everyone know how the new wiring harness works when it gets here.
I changed a harness a couple of years ago on a 200-2 and the updated harness came in 2 pieces. The main harness and then a pump area harness. This is a great idea as the harness in the pump area gets a lot of heat and oil and it deteriorates. So now you can replace just that harness. "BUT" when it was ordered I only got the main harness and had to order the pump harness. Delaying the completion of the job. The original harness number should change up to a 2 part harness, but make sure.
Yup, I ordered the main harness and the pump harness, should be here Monday or Tuesday. The guy at Wajax was very helpful in telling me everything I'd need. All I need now is a nice sunny day or two so I can change it out as my dad has all kinds of junk in the shop right now that can't be moved, or so he says...
Hello again everyone, half the new harness is here, the engine and chassis harness showed up 2 days ago and the cab part is coming tomorrow apparently/hopefully... Yesterday the machine was busy so I didn't do anything on it until this morning. I spent most of the day pulling the old harness out and cramming the new one in! So far it's been going relatively well, although my hands look like I've been in a good fight with a cat... I do have one question here for the experts, which pump solenoid is #1 and #2? My technical manual doesn't tell which is which... Thanks!
On the left...counterweight side.
Thanks Derek! Well here's another update. I've managed to pull all the old wiring out and got the chassis harness in. All in all it wasn't as bad as I expected, but still a ton of work! The cab harness showed up first thing yesterday morning too, so it's going in today. Then hopefully I'll report back saying everything is working. Here's a few pictures of the old and new harnesses.
Gee....I have no idea why you have electrical problems.......
It works!!! Hooray, it works!!! I managed to get the harness all installed and hooked up, then I just pulled it out of the shop and took the pump out of limp mode, fired it back up and everything works now! I want to say a big thank you to all of you who helped me with this project especially Flemmings equipment, 3Doc, KenAl and Cutting edge, I couldn't have done it without your guys' input and ideas and the troubleshooting manual from 3Doc! I hope one day if the need arises I can help all you guys out with a problem. I'm going to put all the panels back on the machine, put the bucket on and go try it out in the bush. I'll take some pictures and post them later on. Cheers!:drinkup
Hello,Ihave an ex 220-3 runs great when cold but after it gets hot all of a sudden will load the engine for no reason with all levers in neutral, .You can turn it off / start up and go sometimes for days allways when hot ,new pump, wiring ohms good between dp sensor &pvc pump & pvc.Both pump solenoids have 18.ohms book gives 15.5 +/-1. are they both bad ?
That sounds to me like an intermittent wiring problem. On my -2 all the wiring was completely toast, others have told me that the area in the engine compartment near the muffler is especially prone to problems and indeed it was on my machine. In fact, the new wiring harness I got actually had a seperate engine harness that you can replace instead of having to replace the entire chassis harness because of this known problem. My guess would be that once the machine warms up the wires get heated up and then somewhere lose their continuity and your pumps go to full stroke. I'd start by looking around in your engine and pump area at the harness there. On my new harness there's a big plug right beside the engine and then it runs to the pumps. That part of the harness was only 300 some bucks and pretty easy to change. Hope this helps at least a little...
That sounds like displacement solenoids to me. The coils tend to break down from the heat when they are older and then they stick, but when cooled off they are fine. I would change them both out!
thanks !!
Spitzair, congrats on the repair! It sure sounds like you've been through that whole machine a dozen times over by now...she better be good for another 15 years for you I hope. My father-in-law has an identical machine (EX200-2) and I think he has a VERY similar problem. He has replaced ALL sensors, rebuilt the entire pump, he even convinced his mechanic from Wayjax to plug in a new computer just to see if that was it, but it only proved that his own computer is still working fine. What I'm looking for though is either a service manual for this machine or electrical schematics so that we can dig into her and find where the problem lies. Is there anyone out there who would have an electronic copy of the wiring schematics??? Otherwise, Spitzair, where did you order your shiny new wiring harnesses from, and how much did they set you back? (or ahead now that your machine is running! )
mlepatron I got my harness from Wajax, and if I remember right it was in the neighbourhood of about $2600 give or take for all 3 parts (Engine, Chassis and Cab). If your machine is anything like mine I'd reccomend to just go and replace the harness, especially with all new sensors, that way you know everything is good. I tried to repair my harness, I spent several days working on it and quite a bit of cash but it just wouldn't work. The rest of my machine was in top condition and as soon as I had a new computer and harness in it it ran and worked like it should. I still didn't get a chance to operate it for more than about half an hour myself but a friend of mine used it for about 30 hours and he said it works perfect. Good luck, let us know how you make out!
Thanks spitzair! I'm not too sure how keen the Pa n'law will be to drop another $2600 since he's already into the repairs for somewhere between $6000-$8000 already...but who knows. I'll run it by him and see what he says. He's really trying to find the electrical schematics for the beast to test continuities and resistance through the circuits...a LONG and laborious task at best, but I think you're right about replacing the whole bit. Again, if anyone out there knows where to find the electrical schematics for a EX200-2, either a hard-copy, download, faxed copy, hand delivered copy, or even by donkey train or dog-sled, it would be GREATLY appreciated! I'll let everyone know how it goes and if he gets it running before he decides to sell it.
the other way to prevent the long laborious task and less $$$ is to diagnose it with the dr zx.
I'll check into that rgl726. I would like to think that this is something his Deere mechanic would have already tried, but I'll ask anyways.
For what it's worth I think the $2600 will be money well spent. I wish I would have done it right away instead of messing around with it for as long as I did, but then again hindsight is always 20-20... At least with the new wiring harness you know you won't have any wiring issues and if the sensors and computers are known to be good and you had the pumps rebuilt pretty much the only thing it can be is the wiring itself. I do have some electrical schematics, if you PM me your email I'll try to get them to you.
So I finally got a chance to run it myself for the first time since the repairs, and everything works as it should. The only thing I noticed is that the fast warmup light doesn't go out. Doesn't really seem to affect the operation of the machine though. It's fast and smooth and has plenty of power. Here's a few pictures of the old girl in action.
And a few more. Can't wait to find more things for it to do
Hi, I am having the same problem like spitzair , my computer just fried last week. I am trying to fix the computer but could anyone help me with the components that needs to be replaced. If I have to buy a new one, how much and where can I buy this? I'm talking about; - R1 resistor what type and how big (can't read anything) - B1391 transistor (can't find any here, is there a replacement) - D2101 transistor (can't find any here, is there a replacement) Here are more information Hitachi ex200-3 Numbers on the computer ex200 03R20 901093638AZ X4307806 Ps. tomorrow I will post some pictures
You cannot fix it by yourself due to part unavailabilty and test machine. You must have to buy a new one.
where can I buy one, on the net I can't find any.
I bought mine at Wajax for $1700 cdn. I believe rgl726 can get you one for a better price.
rgl726 could you sell me one? As promised the pictures By showoff200 at 2012-01-09 By showoff200 at 2012-01-09 By showoff200 at 2012-01-09 By showoff200 at 2012-01-09
I have EX200LC-2 that burnt the resistor on PVC and DP sensor. I replace both of them but it runs only for 40min and the engine stop also the water temp goes to red and it blows a lot of black smoke. Tried to fix the wiring by following the schematic but no luck. So what else do I have to look at. The machine runs good at the start but once the temp level reach to red around 40mins. The engine dies. How could I know if someone destroke my pump?
Reviving an old thread here but I’m happy to report that all these years later she’s still going strong and to date there have been no new issues with the machine other than a broken fuel line that took 5 minutes to fix. Took this video a few months back...
Hi guys , Im not sure where to start, i recently purchased a 200-2 1991 with a major problems, ill start with the biggest one, When i start the engine it runs as normal, when i use any hyd movement it goes very very slow. Occasionally when i change the modes to e or s it will operate much faster and then stall the engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated . Please explain where to find things as im new to this type of machine. Note ( the wiring harness looks to be in good condition with no cuts or joiners or insulating tape ,it has also been changed to manuall trottle) thanks
Hi ex 200-2 with the very common hydraulic problem. i have fitted a hydraulic conversion kit to eliminate the elect controls and i have found , the engine runs very well freely and not choking with any movement for the first time. Most of the hydraulics work ok apart from extending out the dipper arm (which is retracting the ram.) This only moves very slowly when i rev up the engine fully this dipper arm moves very slowly and with little to no power. Im not sure where to start as this dipper arm was always slow and weak but its so bad now you couldnt load a lorry or do any work really. Any help or advice would be great , thanks gerry davis
Hi Gerry. Does has you hydraulics been running hot since you put the conversation in ?