I have not included any pictures in this post, but let me know what you want me to take pictures of and I will put them up here. I am up in Canada and I bought this unit out of Oregon. I flew down to Oregon to look it over and it started good. Somehow during shipping, the machine lost the ability to start by key. We were able to get it going by turning the key to the on position (all gauges and lights came on) and then jumping the starter (small bolt to large bolt). An operator friend of mine tried to figure out the problem and he opened up the "linkable fuses" near the battery disconnect switch. Apparently when he opened up one of the fuse housings, the fuse crumbled out along with green corrosion, etc.. After that happened, we had to jumper between the two fuses (there are two bolts there as well). I am not that experienced with troubleshooting electrical in a machine like this and it is up in a northern region where there are not a lot of good mechanics around. Any help is appreciated. It would seem to me that I can replace the linkable fuse with a new part and then it is a matter of finding out what is not allowing current to pass through to the starter. Could it be as simple as a solenoid? Thanks for any help, and make sure to tell me what pictures and/or video you want. Chris.
Fix your fuseable link first, that's probably your problem. Also check the wires going to the starter solenoid to make sure they're ok. There also should be a safety relay bolted on the starter with bullet connectors on the wires, they tend to come undone very easily.
green corrosion corrosion is BAD when it come to wire check the wire make sure it is not just green all the way back i have had wires that got moisture in the jacket and just corroded away as far as checking the wireing just start at the starter and go back from there you will find where the power stops thats where your problem will be
On the starter there is a relay called a "safety relay". It is used so you cannot engage the starter when the engine is running. These do fail at times. See if you have power there and a signal power when someone is holding the key in the start position.
Thanks for the responses! I appreciate all of the feedback. I have a mechanic coming onsite tomorrow and I'll pass along your notes. I'll update the thread with what we find out. It doesn't seem quite right running the hoe with a bungy cord on the throttle cable!! -=c=-
i have about 7 bungee cords on mine! they work fine.
Hey Everyone, Thanks for the input. I replaced the linkable fuses and the Glow Relay. I can start and stop the hoe now with the key. However, the "dashboard lights" never go off. In order to turn them off I have to throw the battery disconnect switch. ALSO. I still have to jump the bolts between the two linkable fuses with a clamp. I looked at the wiring diagram and it would seem to me that it is the Battery disconnect device. I think it's some sort of solenoid. Thoughts? -=c=-
replace your battery relay or soleniod follow your battery positive lead to the relay two battery leads one power in one power out and a small wire check for key on power at small wire if you have power with key on replace battery relay
I bought the battery relay (I called it a battery disconnect by accident). I'll swap it out tomorrow and post the results. Thanks -=c=-
I am having the same issue. Won’t start or turn over. Control lights come on and won’t shut off unless I disconnect the battery. How did you resolve this problem.
Battery’s are fully charged. If I turn the key to the start position and jump power to the starter from the safety switch it starts and runs with no issues except when I turn it off control lights stay on and I can not restart with the key.
Welcome to HEF Skylarketts ! When you shut down and the monitor lights are on try disconnecting the small wire (not the Battery wire) to the alternator (I think it is the terminal labeled "L" or "D+") and ground the wire. Did your monitor lights go out?
I will have to try this tonight. If the monitor lights do go out what does that mean the problem could be?
An issue with the alternator regulator.
With the wire unplugged it starts normally and shuts off normally. When I plug it back in after it’s running my voltage stays the same on the batteries which tells me the alternator is not working. Thank you
Hey mate long shot being such an old chat but how did you go with yours? I tried jumping my starter motor but apparently 24 volt with jumper cables wasn't a good idea. Like yours the display stays on ages after talking key out. It had only been started the week before to delive! 24v to the solenoid. Cant even here it ticking with someone cranking the key. Any suggestions much appreciated thanks in advance
I would replace the fusible links. One is a 40 amp and one is a 50 amp. The amps should be stamped on fuse housing if it is still readable. The 40 amp is part number 4270554. The 50 amp is part number 4270555. This will save your wiring harness and also allow better current flow. MG2361 is correct about the alternator there is a Zenner diode at d+ terminal inside alternator that can fail also. 40 amp is number 65 and 50 amp is number 66 in parts breakdown.
Thanks Steve I'll give it a go. Is the diode in the alternator replaceable or are they seed units?
I don’t know I worked for a dealer and always replaced the alternator. I do know some customers installed a alternator from a rebuild shop and it did not work correctly so ask before you buy.
Ok cheers mate. hitachi recon 145AUD each and 3 weeks sir freight 135Aud for the fusible links. So in lui, I was gonna pull the alternator off and tske it to get looked at. I found when turning to start there's solenoids next to the slew motor that activate. Any ideas why that would be happening? At this stage I'm thinking that the starter signal wire isn't working. Would you happen to have a wiring diagram? Thank you