Hi folks hopefully somebody can give me some advice here (please). I changed the gear oil in my EX60-1 "track motors" 150 hours ago and noticed one was overfull. I have checked it regularly (every 40 to 50 hours) and now its got way too much in there again. It's not pressurised or anything, I'm checking it to avoid that. I have released most of the surplus oil into a container and noticed slight traces of fine metal present in the oil flow (machine had just done a 100m walk up a hill to the truck). What options do I have here? Any ideas? Thanks in advance for this and all the really interesting stuff posted on these forums.
replace the seal of the planetary. you have an internal leak.
Some people group the Hitachi EX60 with the bigger Hitachi as far as diagnostics on the exact problem you have. The EX60 has a travel motor with an External Brake piston and frictions. What I mean by that is the brake is not integral to the motor. You take off the motor and inside the cavity of the final drive is the brake piston and frictions. Now saying that, the most common problem I have found is the brake piston seals go. This will allow hydraulic oil into the final drive. You will want to change both sides as the wear should be similar. Item 39 is the piston and 40 and 41 are the seals. If you take off the motor be sure to take the long bolts out and not the short ones as the short ones keep the motor together.
Kenai is the man.
Thanks guys, that's good to know, will start pricing up the parts. Can I ask what the slight traces of metal filings might be? Or is it a typical wear thing. I ran a Honda quad for a few thousand hours on a pest control contract and always had metal filings in the diff (worse than whats in my track motor) and it kept going, I just changed it every 100 hours as by then it was looking like mercury! Just wondered if filings in the EX60 oil was typical or if I needed to look deeper into that as well.
PS the "filings" size would be like a very fine dust. the flow of oil from the plug was maybe an inch wide, and the fine metal dust content would have been about a 10th of an inch. Would an oil analysis be worth doing? Thanks.
any diagnostics dr. kenAI??
Hard to tell by description. You can take the final drive apart till you get to the nut very easily to inspect it if you want. I have taken out many travel motors and at the low point of the cavity sits a pile of metal particles and have just cleaned it out and not worried about it. Some oil samples need a baseline history to see a rise in certain metals/chemicals etc to raise a flag. So for ease of mind, take it apart and have a look. Don't forget the other side it should have very similar wear.
Hi everyone I was also looking for advice on final drive problems on my Hitachi ex35 u , I knew i had some issues when i drained the planetary drive on the right hand side and found just sludge and a leak behind the sprocket , well today it finally just collaped half way through an excavation . What i need to know is if i can just dismantle the mechanical side of the drive which house the planetary gears or do i have to dissasemble the entire drive motor hydraulics and all ?
justridinby EX27u You can take the gear section apart to the hub that bolts to the side frame. The motor is integral to the hub.
Thanks KenAl did manage to dissasemble most of the planetary side after much cursing and stress , and yes your right one of the shafts that will need replacing needs be be dissasembled from within the motor body , really appreciate the diagram you supplied , much easier to understand than the one the guys from hitachi sent me .* note to anyone esle attempting this * If someone has messed with the procedure prior , it can make removing the wire that retains the outer face plate of the planetaries a absolute nightmare !!!!!!!!!!!
ex60 Hi thanks for the info as that leak is what i have just got on my ex60
Could you please post the legend list for the Ex60 exploded view you posted on 6-9-2011 mine just started leaking and have to replace the seals in it. Thank you from a newbie member 1oldman
Gear side for UHO33 Does anyone have an parts list/exploded view for gear side of old Hitachi UHO33?
Welcome to HEF dude! There are some really knowledgeable guys on here and generous with it too. If you explain a bit about what is going on they can most likely nail down which part you need as well as supply a page of parts book. Also helps to bump it up the page list this time of night so the folks on the other side of the pond can see it at the right time. Hope they're all back from holiday. Good luck.
Hi all, great info by all! I have the same problem with my zx 35u, manged with difficulty to remove the stopper ring/wire but cannot remov the cover plate, I dont want to crack it with to much force, is there a special way to remove it? Please help, many thanks in advance.
Hi all, great info by everyone, I have a problem with the final drive on my Hitachi zx 35u, I have manage to remove the stopper ring/wire but having difficulty removing the face plate/cover, I dont want to crack it by using too much force, is there a special way of removing it? Thanks in advance to anyone offering advice.
Hi Carlosrd, once you have the wire removed you can make a little slide hammer type of tool too remove the cover, it middle drain bung should be 3/8 bsp, you can use the little slide hammer tool to remove the cover this way! Aiden
Use a bolt with the same thread as the plug. If the drive "collapsed" the primary bearing basically ground itself to nothing or the threads on the hub stripped out so you aren't going to do much more damage
Great idea thanks a lot.
Yeh its completely ground away to paste, new unit to buy! Thanks for your your help.
parts can I buy a complete seal kit for a ex60urg mine is pouring black oil out
Hi all great site well here goes I have just removed the travel drive from an hitachi ex60-2 and striped the drive motor down but I'm having trouble removing the knock pin any advice would be great cheers
Just push the lock pin inwards. Be careful not to touch the pin on the bearing.
i had to drill my lock pin then tapped it and pulled it with a slide hammer, one side i just drilled completely out, new pins for a john deere 70D are the same as a 60urg, they dont pushback
Here are a few pictures of the one I just finished this past week. The D-rings on the piston is going to be your likely cause if your having overfilling issues in the planetary, as they are completely shot.This may also result in your duo cone to blow out or in my case just be worn. The life of those duo cone seals is decreased if the gap between the planetary housing and drum is worn, which allows packing of material.
Cheers my o-rings are in similar condition I tried knocking the pin in but it won't move I did think about tapping it but I though I would ask on here cheers guys that s what I will do . Can anybody recommend an uk suppliers of parts cheers
john deere excavators are made by hitachi, my 60urg is a deere 70D with a diff. engine, I buy all my parts thru deere, I would start there
Plant Parts Ltd (The Final Drive Center) may have aftermarket parts available as well.
The knock pin should come out without to much hesitation. A nice size drift and a 4 pound hammer should do the trick.
Hi There, i have most those parts available if need! Aiden
Hi, Whilst operating my EX60URG the other day I started smelling gear oil. I noticed that the oil was poring out from the back of the sprocket. I continued to operate for another 15 minutes to park the machine. The oil continued to come out & each time I stopped there was a puddle left behind. Is it possible for the motor seals to go & the gear oil to leak out of the reduction hub? There seemed to be way more than 2.5 litres come out & the hydraulic tank is now only half full. I am guessing that the hydraulic oil is leaking but can't understand why the gear oil was leaking at first? Any help much appreciated.
Hi there, your track brake seals are gone! not sure about the gear oil smell, but if your tank is getting low and its leaking from there then i would be sure its the brake seals! I have them on the shelf if needed! Aiden
The smell was gear oil. If the brake seal was leaking would this also cause the gear oil to leak?
Yup, pressurizes the gear housing forcing the gear oil out past the floating seal, path of least resistance. After a while it's mostly hydraulic oil but the smell lasts a long time. After replacing the brake seals you will need to at least drain the gear housing, fill with gear oil and IF the floating seal heals itself up change the oil again after a few hours of travelling to get most of the remaining thin hyd oil out of the gear hub. Best choice would be to tear down and inspect the planetary side, replacing the floating seal, but I'm lazy and will sometimes hope for the best, lol.
Hi Aiden, how much are the parts I need & how do I go about ordering them?
My Kubota KX251 busted the inside oil seal, that holds the hydraulic from the gear oil, the pressure was so high inside the planetarys that the outside cover came out. Today found a new oil seal, attention that is need to be a high preassure seal, not a regular one, I will fit new bearings, a couple of orings and that´s as good as new. Kubota dealer asked me for 5000 euros (more than 6000USD) for the complete final drive... Of course you can find chinese units for 1500usd...
I am repairing the same motor and have some questions. How does the pin come out that locks the ring in place. I tried to hammer it down, then I drilled a small hole in it. i think I have to unscrew the ring to remove the side load that may be binding the pin. What do i torque do i put on the ring when reinstalling. And what kind of tool do i need to unscrew the ring.
The pin should go clean through...you shouldnt have to drill or do anything fancy. Just drives out. If you dont have exoerince installing the duo cone seals you should seek help. But the nut is torqued to 360 ft. lbs and you need to either fabricate a tool that spans across the holes drill a piece of plate weld roundbar to it and a big nut. You should also think of a a way to secure it when you go to torque. Tricky if you have no prior experience.
Thanks, I will mount a plate to my cylinder bench, and make a tool for torquing the nut. I have worked in hydraulics for a long time but my training and experience is in Industrial Hydraulics.
I found a good bit of information on the duo cone ring seals see link. duo cone seals http://cat-information-blog.blogspot.ca/2014/04/duo-cone-conventional-seals-install-for.html