Hi! Is it possible anyone can tell me what I have taken a picture of on my Hitachi EX60URG. It is located just in front of the air-filter, on the start of the pipe that takes the air to the engine. It has (or in this case: should have) two cables connected to it. One cable has snapped of a while ago, and the other snapped of when I was checking how to fix it. It seems not to be possible to connect the cables again, so i probably have to by a new one. What is the function of this part?
Somewhere in the cab you have a warning light for air filter restriction, that black plastic lump is the switch that turns it on when the air filter gets packed up with dirt and vacuum in the intake gets too high.
Thank you. This is not a big issue then considering that I have recently changed the air filter? I have another question. (Sorry, i'm a total newbie when it comes to excavators) Can anyone explain what the switches in my cab are for. I assume the "E-P" switch is something like Eco and Power, as the RPM on the engine goes down when pushing "E" There are two toggle switches, what are they for? There is also a grey round switch on the bottom of the display. It has a sticker besides it, but it is only possible to read "Stop" It should say something before that... Does anyone know what this is for? Thanks for the help already.
Those toggle switches are aftermarket, who knows what they control, you'd have to trace the wires. The grey button (buzzer stop) is to cancel the travel alarm (alarm was probably disconnected), there used to be a button in the hole under that toggle switch also, it was a fluid check (coolant/hyd) And you are correct on the other switch, power mode gives you full throttle, economy limits to about half throttle.
Thank you for your answer. Regarding the "E-P" Switch: when the engine runs at about half throttle, it really struggles when moving any hydraulic components. Is this normal, or is the Eco-mode only when the machine is not in use? Also one question that comes to mind: I have changed the big hydraulic filter, but there should be a small one too. Where do I find the small one?
You should be able to use the machine in Econo mode, might have to adjust the cylinder on the throttle linkage before the injection pump (on bracket for air filter?), I wouldn't mess with it unless you're really bored, easier to leave it on power and manually adjust the throttle to the desired speed. Should be a pilot filter canister inline shortly after the pilot pump.
Thank you again! I think I found the other filter, altough it was well hidden for a guy without any knowledge. Is it possible you also know what kind of oil and what amount that goes into the slew motor? I noticed there is very little oil on there now, only 1 or 2 millimeters on the dipstick. Should i drain the old oil and then refill with new, or is it ok just to fill it up to the right level? I am struggling to find the right service manual for this Hitachi EX60URG, so i hope to get as much help as possible here untill i find one.
Should be 80w90 gear oil in the swing drive (if it has a strong odor to it), make sure the machine is on flat ground when you check the level. Wouldn't hurt to drain and refill, only holds 2L or so IIRC?
Thanks! Do you know where I can tap the current oil? The only alternative I see is a small tube from almost at the bottom on the swing drive, aprox, 20cm long that goes to nothing and is plugged in the end. Is the oil filled thru the hole where the dipstick is placed? I really appreciate al this help!
That tube at the bottom of the swing drive just above the flange is the drain ( arrow in the picture translated into "oil cooler piings"??) the fill plug (#40) is on the opposite side of the motor from the dipstick tube, should be a square head pipe plug.
Thanks! Found it and fixed it! I reckon I will get back here when I get more questions. Now i have changed all filters except the fuel filter, changed engine oil and oil in the swing drive. So i hope the machine wil work for many hours. Do you have the procedure for how to change the fuel filter? How do I bleed the fuel system after changing? Is there a chance that you have any kind of manual for the EX60URG?
Once the new fuel filter is installed (you can pre fill it with filtered fuel if you wish but not necessary) There is a primer pump on the transfer pump (on side of inj pump). The knob unscrews then you can pump, once done push down and tighten. The inj pump inlet banjo bolt (close to primer pump) has a bleeder screw in the centre, loosen a few turns to let the air escape. Pump away until bubble free fuel comes out the bleeder, snug the bleeder then pump a few more times. Start the machine and run immediately at half to full throttle for a few minutes, shut off and check for leaks. One more thing, on the bottom of the fuel tank there is a petcock with a plug in it, this drains any water etc from the bottom of the tank. Drain a Litre or so out every year into a clear container and check for contamination. Sorry I don't have a manual, but these UR(G) machines are very close to a EX60-1 other than being harder to work on (zero tail swing)
Thank you! I find it dificult also to find manuals for the EX60-1. Wherever I search 60-2 is the first to show up. If someone has a service manual for the EX60-1 i would be really interested in a copy. Is the electronic system on this machine 12V or 24V? After running the machine for a while, the display in the machine shows that the engine is very hot. The arrow is in the red area. Sometimes it takes 30 minutes, other times i can run it for hours. I have checked the thermostat, and it starts to open at about 80-85 celcius. I have filled antifreeze and water. When i turn the ignition key of (turn the power of) while the machine is running and let the arrow make its way back to the middle, then switch the power on again, the arrow is not climbing back to the red area. Is this a problem with the temperature arrow in the cabin, or is the engine really hot. I can (barely) touch the top hose that goes to the radiator. If it's the engine, what can cause this problem?
No feedback on my previus post? - Although the temperature has been stable the last 16 work hours... Now I have a new problem: The battery lamp in the cab is shining, and neither worklights, wiper, or cab heater works. The machine starts fine, and it doesn't seem like there is low power on the batteries. Batteries are maximum 1 year old. Could it be the dynamo, or are there problems with cables anywhere? Would appreciate feedback on this one.
I didn't see that last post, should be 24v, get a multimeter on the batteries and see if it's charging, also buy an inexpensive IR thermometer gun, next time it's showing hot check the temp at the thermostat housing, guessing its a false reading on the gauge. Sounds like wiring issues, the wiring gets brittle in these older machines, just like the pic in your first post. Go over all the wiring and connections, check all the grounds, look for any broken wires, corrosion or loose connections at the harness plugs.
Today the machine wouldn't start... It makes one or two turns on the start engine and then stops. Sounds like the batteries are empty, but on the multimeter it shows 22,8v. Shouldn't that be enough for starting the engine? The machine has been started several times without any problems at all after the battery lamp started showing. When i startet checking the batteries, i noticed that the cable that goes from main power switch, was loose from the the minus-connection on the battery. After tightening nothing changes. Can this loose cable cause any permanent problems? As i'm not so good at electrical stuff, i don't even know where to start looking for faults...
Your batteries are too low at 22.8v. if you don't have a 24v charger just charge each battery individually. Need to figure out why it's not charging, the loose ground may have been an issue, and no it won't cause any damage. These machines have very little electrical draw when running, plus it's a small engine to crank, that's why it took so long for the batteries to go flat. Get the batteries charged and check for bad wiring/loose connections at the alternator to start with.
Thanks! Turns out this was a false alarm... I was going to check what was working and what not. So i pushed the toggle switch that on the picture earlier in this post is situated on the side of the original panel. On the picture bottom left. When i pushed this, the battery lamp stopped shining and lights, wiper and heater all worked again. I have not checked yet, but i think, and hope, that the alternator also is charging again. Turns out i have pushed the button without notice. What is this button for? I have a main power switch situated nearby the batteries, so i dont see the point of this switch. Also. Does anyone have the dimensions on the bolts and bushings on the bucket and linkage? I am not nearby my machine right now, and wanted to order new bolts and bushings to get rid of the slack. Or is it enough to change only the bushings?
Turns out there still is an electrical problem on my machine. Because most of the worklamps were broken, i have now replaced all worklights with new 48W LED lights. When testing all lights after replacement, it turns out that the switch mentioned in the post above, is a light switch for the lights on the cab. The original lightswitch is for the lights on the stick. When all lights are turned on, they are not shining as much as they should, the wiper goes slowly and the heater doesnt work. Without lights, both the wiper and heater works fine. The batteries have gone flat once more. When measuring the alternator it shows little above 30V both on idle and full throttle without lights. when lights are turned on it shows only 8V. The batteries show 25V both with or without lights turned on. I can't seem to find any loose wiring on the alternator, and i'm not shure where to check next. Is this problem caused by broken alternator, or is there another problem?
I'm no electrician, so this is just a guess, but you probably have bad ground(s) somewhere. I wouldn't think it's a short or chaffed wire, because that would probably blow stuff out or not work at all (versus working slowly or lights bring dim).
I still have some electrical problems on this machine. After the problems in the posts above, I decided to replace all wiring on the lights. So now the lights are connected directly to the battery with a separate fuse and switch. And no longer to the fusebox inside the cab. I also replaced the grounds that were connected on each lights bracket, and made a new cable connected to the main ground behind the batteries. Now i can run all lightning, wiper, and heater together with out problems, as long as there is power on the batteries. But the batteries are not charging, so i think maybe i have to replace the alternator. Does anyone know wat kind of alternator that is fitted on this machine? Maybe someone has a part number i can use to find it? Also i would need a tip how to meassure if the alternator is broken or not. Where can i connect the multimeter to check this? (As you see i'm not really an electrical genius...)
Nissan or isuzu engine? If nissan just look for nissan fd33 alternator- 23100-90068
My machine has the Isuzu 4JB1 engine i think. But i seem to find different alternators when i search on this engine..
Why not rebuild it? Or find 1 that fit the bracket..must be 24v....
I'm not really sure how to do that. I don't really have any mechanical experience at all, and especially not when it comes to electrical components...
Altern. are pretty easy.. Just watch a couple of utube videos.. between a few special tools, {torx bits & a cheap multimeter maybe} & some inexpensive parts.. it'll pay for itself. Alt.=$125.00>> fixing it yourself=priceless.
Hai again, pls look for this hitachi parts.. HITACHI LR220-24 or LR220-23
Thank you for that part number! It was exacly what i needed. Anyone know a number or something for the exhaust Muffler/Silencer Box on EX60URG?
Forget the last question, i found it. But back to the alternator! I have purchased the alternator, and everything seems to be exacly the same as the original one, except one single cable coming out of the original alternator. I am wondering if this is something that i can connect myself on the new alternator? After opening the old alternator it seems that this cable is twinned around three copper-threads inside the alternator. Can i just find three random threads and connect it on the new alternator? Or is there somewhere else i can connect this cable? And what is it actually for? The cable i am talking about is the one inside the red ring. Inside the old alternator it looks like this: Although some of the wiring broke of when i opened the old alternator... Is there anyone that can help me with this one?
I am not familiar with your equipment but as far as -alternators- go, the wire you refer to is connected to the FIELD COILS. Commonly such a wire is either used for an external regulator or a charge indicator/gauge. If you do not have such a wire on the NEW alternator, -something- will not work. No, there is no way of connecting one internally on the new alternator and making it work. I would guess that you have an incorrect alternator.
Thanks for your answer. The New alternator fits to the same parts-number as the original one. It also looks exacly the same except that one cable. There is a hole in the New alternator where the cable should have come out. On the side of the hole the letter "P" is printed. What does "P" stand for? Right now i have no other option that trying to make it work with the new alternator...
The P terminal stands for Phase or Pulse, It's used for either a tachometer or hour meter, since your machine is basically a dash 1 it will not be used, hour meter is run off an oil pressure switch on the engine. I bet if you follow that wire it will go nowhere, my 790D has this terminal on its alternator, at the nearest connection in the wiring harness it stopped, no pin/wire on the opposite side of the connector. The field and voltage sense connection is in the plug with two wires. If it charges and everything works, don't worry about it.
Good that someone could help him. As stated I know nothing about the equipment, only alternators, and responded to possibly help as no one else had responded. I figured if I responded then perhaps someone would correct me and give a proper response. Usually an alternator with four wires -requires- all four. As it's a 'four wire' alternator, and as the connection had a 'fused' wire, it could go anywhere. At least one field connection is required in order to 'excite' the alternator, the second one is 'tapped' to not include 'all fields', which is what this alternator had. Sometimes the 'tap' is for A/C. from the alternator.
Thanks for the help i am getting! I have replaced the alternator, te ignition switch (As there was a bad connection in it) and i have replaced the batteries (As the old ones have been charged and emptied many times already) But still no charging.. After a day with measuring this is what i found: - The alternator itself gives almost 30V (29,9) to the Voltmeter. So this indikates that it is working, right? - Between plus on the alternator and ground on both batteries and chassis it shows about 30V - But between alternator ground and battery plus, i get only 24V. - Also ground and plus on batteries shows only 24V. - Also the positive (+) connection between the alternator and starter-motor seems to be OK. I have also checked and cleaned several ground points. So i think maybe the positive (+) connection between alternator and batteries stops somewhere. Could it be the Battery Relay? (That i don't even know what is for?) As it got dark i have not been able to measure on the Battery relay, but maybe someone knows what my next step can be?
Have you checked to see if the 'mystery wire' that -is not on- the 'new alternator' went anywhere ???
probably haven't checked good enough as it disappears into a cable hose together with the rest of the cables... Have to check it more when I have time, probably not before next week. In the mean time all tips and tricks are appreciated!
Just read the thread so will back track a little. The wire coming out of the old alternator was a connection to what they call the star point in the stator windings. Even though the alt is 24V the voltage when running at that wire will be Aprox 12V with respect to ground. That wire can be used for many things but typically used as run indicator or start inhibit function. In your case the alt is running but lost its connection to the battery. It is almost certain to be blow fusible link in the wiring or the battery relay. Typically the battery relay isolates the alt from the battery in the off state. Below are three threads that i commented on which describes the same problems. If you read these threads and still have a question i will try to help, cheers. Hitachi EX60 URG need electrical diagram Hitachi EX-60 issues - not charging Hitachi EX200-2 Diodes
Thanks for your answer! I haven't had the time to read through all threads, but after some researching today I have maybe come up with one solution. But i am not sure if this solution will have any consequences for the rest of the electrical system on the machine... What does the Battery relay actually do? When i put a cable between the plus on alternator and the plus on the battery relay, the cable that goes to the battery, then it started charging. I got up to 28V on the batteries. So in theory, if I make a permanent cable between those points, the charging problem would be fixed, but could this affect the rest of te electrical system?
There will be a fusible link in the alternator output wire coming off battery disconnect relay, plastc encased, 1/2" round, 2" long. It has large spade connectors under the rubber seals, check the connections then continuity of the fusible link. Hard wiring the alternator without a fuse is a good way to start a fire. Also don't run the machine very long when the alternator isn't able to connect with the batteries, the field windings will overheat when the power has nowhere to go!
"So in theory, if I make a permanent cable between those points, the charging problem would be fixed, but could this affect the rest of te electrical system?" As I have said I know nothing about your particular equipment but I know electronics and alternators, and I would not recommend that you do that. Alternators 'require controls' as to -when- they can connect/disconnect and charge a battery and/or provide power to controls and instruments/gauges. While you WILL charge the batteries, you MAY bypass a 'safety circuit' which protects other components from possible voltage/power surges. I always enjoy figuring out how to bypass and eliminate/redesign the unnecessary things (KISS) but - usually - the design of electrical connections and components are REQUIRED for some specific reason(s).
I think the design is crap and causes more trouble than its worth. I am only guessing but i think they must have been trying to comply with a mining spec where the machine has total electrical isolation in the off state. Use a reasonable sized wire if you are going to bypass the relay as you have described. The only issue which needs to be checked and or dealt with is how the alternator is started. In a motor car the alternator warning light on the dash is used to excite the alternator when the motor starts. On your machine they use a resister between the alternator B+ terminal and the field winding. this circuit was energized when the ignition closed the battery relay. It might be that being bypassed the field circuit of the alt is draining your battery's in the off state. You will have to remove a battery terminal when not running and check with a meter that is not happening. If it is the wiring can be fudged but check first.
The only electrical safety circuit on a dash 1 Hitachi is the load dump relay, it's purpose is to protect the alternator from what I described above, the load dump relay is triggered when the alternator starts charging, it keeps the battery disconnect relay from disconnecting while the engine is running. It will stay connected until the alternator comes to a stop.
I don't know if it matters, but I have a main power switch mounted on the ground from batteries. But most probably there is a problem with the Battery relay, wether it's bad connection somewhere, or the relay is broken? Does, someone have a part number for the battery relay?
If the battery relay is faulty the machine and starter would have no power. The alternator B+ gets energized from the machine side of that relay. So you are going to have to find fuse or bad connection on that alt circuit
Finally the charging problem is solved! It turned out to be a rather simple problem: There are - together with the battery-cables - connected two smaller cables to the battery relay. One yellow and one red. one of theese was broken just in the connection with some kind of socket. (possibly the one @GregsHD was talking about in post #39?) Anyway we cut away the socket and connected the cables directly to the battery relay with spade connectors. This way the machine is charging again. I hope this will be a permanent solution to the charging problem. On the picture below you can see the yellow and red cables: Here is the socket with the broken cable: Thank you to everyone that has tried to help! Hopefully you will help me again if more problems shouls occur.
Yes that is the fusable link I was taking about, you should reinstall a fusible link in that connection, if the wire to the alternator rubs through to ground while the machine is running it could catch fire. That is what the fusible link is there to protect against. Pry the rubber seals out of each end around the wires, there should be large push on spade terminals, looks like the wire just broke at the spade connector.
Thanks for that answer. It looks like the wire has broken inside the insulation of the cable, because the copper is still 1-2 cm long from that spade connector, and there is no copper inside the first few cm. of the cable. Is this caused by some kind of fault, or could it still be that the cable has just got broken through the years? Is it possible to replace the fusible link with a normal fuse, with a fuse holder? one for each cable? And in that case, how many Ampere should the fuse be? If I have to replace the broken cable, is it a special kind of cable, or could i replace it with any kind?
is it possible to replace the fusible link with a normal fuse, with a fuse holder? one for each cable? While you 'can' replace a fusible link with a -slow blow- fuse, if you could find one that would carry the amps, it would not be as reliable (corroding / oxidizing contacts?) in a damp varying temperature area. A fusible link is just a 'smaller' piece of wire than the attaching wire so a constant heavy current will burn thu it first, as a last resort for an overload / short.
Next problem: The overheat warning lamp came on and the buzzer sound came on just when the machine was started. The machine has been standing still for a few says so the engine is not overheated at all. What does this lamp tell me when the engine temperature is not high?
Could it be that the temperature sensor is broken? If so, does anyone have a part number for it? Would this be easy to replace? The coolant fluid is visible when i open the cover on top of the radiator, so there should be enough, also the engine is cold, so what is causing this problem? Hoping for more of the valuable help that you have already given me!
I might be able to assist but you need to post a picture of the temp sensor or sensors on the engine to give me a starting point. Electronics has changed the way things are done these days but on older equipment things were pretty basic. Old design might have had one analogue sensor with a single wire which operates the temp gauge on the dash. A second digital sensor could be there with prob two wires which closes the circuit of the High Temp Light and buzzer. Generally older circuits were not smart enough to combine both functions off the one sensor. Some Temperature gauges had a set of contacts which closed if the needle went high but not very common. If you could post a wiring diagram for the machine would make it easy.
The sensor switch part number should be # 4187223
Thanks for answers, so it is most likely that the sensor is broken? Here are the pictures "007" requested: It looks like there are two sensors on the thermostat housing, i'm not sure wich one of them does what? anyway there is just one cable to each of them. Her is the wiring diagram that I have for the machine. not sure if it is the correct one... Is it possible to work with the machine untill the problem is fixed, as long as the engine does not oveheat??
its hard to tell from diagram which sensor is which. Usually the big one is the buzzer. you can use the machine as long as you are sure it is not over heating. if you pull both wires of the sensors and short them to ground and check as one will make the buzzer come on and the other will make the temp gauge got to max temp careful not to over tighten wires on sensor as they are a little fragile
Yes the big 1 should be the buzzer, u should hear the buzzer when u short it to ground. If sensor still sound when u unplug it, mean u have short circuit on the wiring back to cab..
Is this electric diagram same for EX60URG?
Hello what is the difference between EX60URG and EX60?
Does anyone know where the fault is when the machine has slack on the swing gear? It has several centimeters of slack before it starts turning. It is not a very big issue right now, but it turns out this is a dealbreaker for people to buy the machine, as i am now trying to sell it. Apparently the swing gear on Hitachi's are weak, so when they first get slack it is just a matter of time before it totally brakes. Is it possible to say how much work it would be to fix it? How do i fix it? Or how much would it cost? Maybe someone can help me with finding the right parts that i need to change?