The center pivot on my UH083 has given up. At first I figured just seals would fix the leak. After getting the whole assembly out of the machine and taking it apart on the bench it looks like I need the spindle. The housing looks good but the spindle is galled. According to the manual, the part #1005892 is what I need but it's NLA. I suppose I could send it out to be built up and turned but would rather get a replacement part. Do any of you guys have a source for a 1005892 spindle?
You could try Brikers in Surrey BC. www.brikers.com I've bought parts from them in the past, good folks to deal with.
Tried local salvage guys for a used unit?
Spitzair: Thanks for the tip. I'll try them after they open this morning. Seem they require a signup to much of anything on their website and a real person to approve it. So I'll just wait and call them. Catfixer: I have tried everywhere looking for used or dismantled machines with no luck. I did learn this nugget of knowledge from a supplier advertising on Machine finder in Washington State. Machine finder makes it look like they have about 6 UH083s on site for parts. The guy I spoke with, Larry told me they about 3 parts for 083s total and it had been several years since they had one! Larry went on to say Machine finder continues to make it look like they have what they don't causing significant indigestion. As a side note I have seen that kind of advertising from Machinefinder locally. There is a bone yard nearby that Machinefinder indicates they have 3, Cat E70Bs. The reality as I know it is they haven't had them for over 5 years.
Things like this is why I wish I had a machine shop and free time lol
If it's a round shaft that needs to be turned down and built up, it actually isn't crazy expansive to have it (metalized)spray welded to build it up. My backhoe has a rotary swing cylinder that the main shaft was worn and leaking. It was $340 or something like that to have it repaired. Of course that doesn't include the disassembly. I'm sure even if a new one was still available it would be at least 5 times that much and probably more. The metalizing is usually harder than the original shaft so might wear seals a little faster but that's cheaper to fix than the shaft if they start to leak.
FYI Update $5,435.00 to have rebuilt! It ain't happening in this lifetime. On to plan "B". Anybody got any ideas?
WOW!!!! That's crazy! You could probably almost have a new one built for that!
What all does rebuilding include? Are they putting all new parts in and doing the complete R & R on it as well?
yeah! tell me about it! That must be what they are doing! So far the story is sleeve, turn and somehow harden the pivot. I have the o-rings and bearings. They are doing nothing to the can as best I can gather. Of course I'll have to reassemble and re install. The problem is I can find even a used part. I could put it together as is. It only has minor galling but I know it's gonna leak after just a few hours of use. Seems like somebody could do the job for less money. FYI. I need #6 in the diagram.
I'm not fully understanding but if the shaft (#6) is worn, it can be repaired by turning it down, spinning it in a lathe and spray welding it.
I'm with you Dave. I thought the same thing. It's my understanding they want to turn the pivot, put a sleeve on it, turn it again to cut all of the (not illistrated in the diagram) o-ring groves and mill a couple holes in the sides. Then they want to harden it again. Unless they are doing all of this with platinum $5k is crazy. I really don't want to put it into a box and send it to Vancouver but I may have to.
How much do you use this machine and where on the post is it galled? Years ago I had a hyd. cylinder rod with a large gouge in it and a hyd. shop sent it out and had it brazed up, and it was very reasonably priced. I've also seen a company that makes an epoxy for this. I know it will not be as hard as the original post but if their small gouges the seals will still ride mostly on the original material. Not ideal however it should work for some time, giving you time to locate good parts.
It really isn't used that much being a farm machine. The epoxy and/or braze would probably work except the grove that seems to be the worst is where the bearings ride at the top. For the life of me I can't understand why they can't spatter weld it up then chuck it in a lathe and finish it. For $5,000 I would think they should rebuild the engine also. I did find the part in France for $2,400 + $460 shipping. The problem with that is they can't provide a photo and it's a used part that may be no better than what I have got.
Have you tried www. garageasp.com or www.viequipmentltd.com ? I wonder if you could adapt a rotary manifold from a newer more easily available unit?
Do they use in different machines ? If so you may one find under another model
Greg, Thanks I'll give them a shot and see what they can do. BLS, Yes they are used in a lot of the UH models but strangely, still unavailable. The x and z models use a completely different anmial. Maybe I should weld stops on the table and just use hoses!
A UHO83 is the same as a UHO7-7 and most machines from a 100 size up to the 300 size used the same rotary. Another option may be to find a complete unit out of a dash 1, EX series and adapt it to your machine. Not sure it's possible, yours will have hard pipe right to the rotary, the EX used hose the last couple of feet but I think it would be worth looking at. I would think though that a good machine shop should be able to fix your post for a fairly reasonable price.
The manifold from a 790d or ex200/220-1 look quite similar, wonder if they measure up, I'm sure VI has a ex200-1 manifold kicking around to look at.
Really interesting! Thanks.. I'm going to spend a little time to see if a little engineering might make one work (assuming I can find one).
All rotary's from EX120-1 through EX300-1 are the same along with Deere 490D, 590D, 790D, 792D and 892D so they should be fairly easy to locate.(not sure what the 690s used) You would have to compare physical size, I would think plumbing would be fairly easy. Definitely worth looking into.
Maybe who ever you talked to doesn't do spray welding so is trying to come up with another idea they could do in their shop? Even after spray welding, it has to be turned down to size so cutting grooves for seals shouldn't be a problem to do at the same time. There is some harder epoxy that you could try too. Devcon or Belzona if you can find it make a epoxy for building up shafts. Devcon doesn't recommend it if it's where a packing goes but maybe a speedi-sleeve could be used too if it's a seal surface. http://www.devcon.com/UserFiles/File/MetalFilled_User_Guide.pdf