The reference photo is from engine removal instructions for my 289D (thanks Nige). How many bolts hold the pump on? I can only find 1 on the "driver" side (if you're looking forward in the machine, on the left). Is there another identical 12 point 14mm bolt on the "passenger" side? I can't see a damn thing that far back even with my flashlight on, maybe I'm an bigger moron that I thought.
2 x 12-point head bolts (ref #3) - 1 each side. You need that special wrench extension adapter mentioned in the R&I procedure in order to access them.
I've got that tool, just typical shop manuals, 3 hoses I'm gonna have to remove on the hydraulic tank to access the right side. Took machine to dealer to clear codes last week and one of the mechanics "accidentally" left the OEM tool in my cab.
And for anyone in the future looking to pull the motor in these, shop mechanic said they don't disconnect anything on the pump. Leave all the hoses on, get the bolts out, ratchet strap the pump towards front of machine. Yank engine and be done with it. The hoses and everything will support the pump just fine, put a block underneath it just for grins though
I'm probably gonna need OEM tool on other side, but this worked as an emergency setup. Stubby 12 point 14mm ratcheting wrench. Short length 3/8" drive ratchet with a 1/2" drive adapter. Put the 1/2" adapter in the open wrench end and use as a leverage point. Required cussing is 7/10.
I use a torque adapter. Yep its a PITA. Repairing those machines will either teach you patience or make you want to throw stuff around the shop.
Can confirm this job is a PITA. Where can one buy the special cat OEM tool? Dealer only?
The wrench adapter is Part Number 387-9124. A Google search reveals other sources apart from a Cat dealer. AVspare is one outift seeling it but I don't have an account so I can't see the price.
@chammclowder don't buy it, buy the 12 point tool I specified earlier, will also send you a video of the better way to do this, just need a 1/2" extension and a 3/8" adapter. You can get all that off Amazon for less than 1/3rd of what the friggin dealers want for the specialty tool
Watch the video in this link starting at around 0:40 HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks for the help guys. Got it removed and engine pulled out for a rebuild. (Appears to have stuck an injector) Any recommendations for a rebuild kit? Looks like we'll need to put some sleeves in as the cylinder got pretty chewed up.
Do those engines even have liners.? I would have thought that you would be looking at boring oversize with the necessary pistons or a new block. Not sure TBH, I would have to check. It might be a stupid question but why were you so concerned about pulling the pump when the engine had to come out.? It would have been easier to snatch the lot and pull the pump off when you got the whole assembly out of the machine.
For future reference on this I find it easier to pull the ring of bolts out of the pump mounting flange rather than the two 12 point bolts. The flange has to come off anyway to do the engine or replace the pump drive coupling.
No liners from the factory. Most kits I've found come with liners and standard size pistons. Just want to make sure the kit I'm getting is accurate. Not a stupid question at all I was going to pull the pump out with it originally. But seeing how simple it was to leave it in place with all the hydraulic lines still on I chose to go that route. FLYWHEEL-PRIME's video made the process easy once I had the tool to access the pump bolt.
I would suggest that you need to get other opinions. I’m not at all convinced that the idea of installing sleeves in a block with bores that small has any merit whatsoever. These are effectively "throwaway" engines we're talking about here.........
The dealer I was at would only sleeve and rebuild those engines if a maximum of one hole was damaged. Anything more than that it was cheaper to drop in a new engine.
If you only have one damaged hole then the advice from @92U 3406 above would appear to apply. More holes than that and a new/recon cylinder block would appear to be the preferred solution.
guys, I have a question. It looks like I have the same issue, the hydraulic of my machine DTB00725, 262D high-flow, stop moving, and no hydraulic activity, i noticed the fan for the hydraulic no spin , so i have the thoughts that coupler need to be replaced , the question for all of you - do i need to remove the engine or i can just take out the pump and replace the coupler? - any advise to do a diagnose before i replace the coupler? Thanks
I've done it both ways. Access to a suitable crane/hoist would be the determining factor as to which way I'd go at it. Either way its not a particularly enjoyable task.
So when I want to go from the pump side under cab What wrench do I need to buy ? Do I need to disconnect all hoses for hydraulic as well ?
You shouldn't have to remove many hoses off the pump itself. It only needs to slide out far enough to R&R the coupler. I think you may have to drain the hydraulics and remove the suction line from the tank to the charge pump as I don't think there's any slack in that line. Most of the other hoses should have enough slack in them though. You'll have to assess the need to remove lines as you get into it. Definitely get some blocking or something for support under the pumps, they are heavy! If you can get an engine hoist in there to help support the pumps as well that'd probably make things a bit easier. Wash the pumps and lines before you start, cap all open fittings. Any dirt you get into these lines will go straight into the pumps. I don't think you have to remove the metal panel above the pumps but it's been a few years since I last did a coupler. Couplers do fail, they're just plastic/nylon garbage but I would make sure the pumps can be spun over while you have them slid out. Sometimes a 12 point socket will engage the splines and you can just spin them over a couple times with a ratchet to make sure there isn't a problem. Splining the pump back into the coupler is my nightmare though. Seems like I almost always spend at least 15-20 minutes cussing under my breath trying to get it level and straight enough to slide in.
do you know which line , or do you have the diagram for that ? also can you get me the diagram please am seriously need that help. Thanks a lot
are we talking about this metal panel " plate adapter here " ?
Unfortunately I left the Caterpillar world a few years ago and no longer have access to any of that information. Everything I've mentioned so far is from what I remember. I was referring to the plate which functions as a divider between the back of the engine and the area under the cab. That picture you attached, item 1 should be the coupler itself and the pumps should spline directly into it. Item 2 will have to be removed to access the coupler. Unfortunately I don't recall the rear engine mounts being a part of item 2 on any of the units I've done, so you will need to support the rear of the engine somehow by the looks of it.
I have removed the cable from the hydraulic fan and start the machine I couldn't see any movements. What's the guess here ?
pump Drive coupling. Low oil level Pump failed.
i need your help please , i took the pump out , unscrew all bolts from Pump Mount, the question is how to take it out from the pump side , so i can replace the coupler ? any idea
I'm not following your question. You're asking about taking out the pump to replace the coupling disk? The easiest way to get that done is to remove the engine, not the pump. Pulling the pump is probably a 4-8 hour job depending on what tools and equipment you have access to. Pulling the motor is a 1-2 hour job with relatively simple tools.