The bushing are for the swing cylinder trunnions on a backhoe. CNH wants $156.00 plus tax for two hardened steel bushings. 2 1/2" ID x 3" OD x 3/4" L. Dale Wiess has some 1 1/2"L. for $40.00. Is there a way to cut it in half nice and square ? Angle grinder ? Are there blades for reciprocating saws that would cut it ?
Abrasive wheel is the only thing I know that will do it at a reasonable cost.
Angle grinder with a thin cutoff blade. I like a 6"x .045" disc on a 5" grinder. Wear heavy gloves because they will get hot. I use a sliding rule square and a sharpie to get an even line to follow. DO NOT finish grind with that disc... it will explode. Ask me how I know.
How about one of those machine shop type band saw tables. I've seem them with water cooling on the blade. Set it up and walk away until it is finished.
If you have a lathe to turn the bushing the opposite direction of the cut off wheel it helps to get a nice square cut also.
I used an old pipe threader. No worries about abrasives on lathe ways.
It will kill most band saw blades. Thin parting tool on a lathe.
Depending on how hard it is you might get away with a diamond disc or similar sawzall blade if you don't want to go with the abrasive disc.... unless you have access to a good waterjet cutter
On those super hard bushings I don't think that's even an option. Tried to face one once with a carbide insert. Lots of smoke and the carbide insert lost.
How does the grease enter that pin/bushing connection, does it come from a hole in the bushing? Those 1 1/2" bushings that you're going to cut down to 3/4", are they going to allow greasing the pin/bushing?
I see the OD as the problem. Put the long bushing on a 2 1/2 OD pivot... set an angle grinder cut off disk at the middle... rotate the bushing as you cut...then you cut 1/2 inch depth not 3 inches. The cut will be as square as you set the pivot to the cut off blade.
I don't have a lathe, band-saw or access to a water jet. I have is a chop saw that would remove tooo much of the bushing. All I have is an angle grinder and a couple of reciprocating saws. The grease goes thru the trunnion pin #29.
Ok, just wanted to make sure we had greasing covered.
If you're talking about bushing's #3, rough cut them with an abrasive wheel, drive them in, then finish grinding flush with an angle grinder.
Are you hoping to get both 3/4" bushings out of one 1 1/2" bushing? Or was it $40 for two bushings, and you can make one out of each one?
Lathe and a parting tool to get it square then chamfer the edge. Simple operation for anyone worth their salt with a lathe. Equipment manufacturers are screwing owners of their equipment. All should get a reasonable profit, however, but bending over customers is BS.
After some more thought. you don't need a pivot. Just a flat surface and a way to hold your angle grinder blade parallel and 1/2 inch above the surface. The 4 1/2 cutoff disks are 1/16 thick so you'd loose at least, that much material if you try to make two from one.
A good quality .045" cut off disc. I'd make a thin line around the bushing and then score all around the bushing with the cut off disc. That will help you keep it straight.
Dale wants $40.00 for one bushing 1 1/2 inches long. Even if I could get just one bushing out of it that is a lot better than $76.00 each from CNH. It seems to me that there is a lot of stress on those bushings and I am leery of reducing the length of them more than a few thousands of an inch. Another problem I need to deal with is one of old bushings broke its bond to the bore on the hydraulic cylinder. So, I had a very loose "free floating bushing". Would it be worth trying to bed the bushing in an epoxy like maybe a Devcon product. I know Belzona has been talked about on HEF but it is way too expensive for me.
Another option is if you have a bearing store that has an old school counter person close by. Inner needle bearing races are or where available in several sizes on the ID and OD as well as different lengths. If they can be found even if they are slightly longer you can cut them off. Then you would have one solid bushing in each bore. I prefer to use Loctite bearing mount for minor discrepancy on fit.
Which product do you use ? I see there are several different products offered by them.
I don't know the # off the top of my head but it is listed as High Strength Bearing Mount.
I'm all for saving $, but I think if you are only able to get one out of each bushing, I'd just buy the CNH ones. It's $35 more per bushing, but my guys cost me 40-50 a hour, so I can't mess with it for very long for the price difference. If you want to use the cheaper ones, I kinda like the idea of cutting them close, then finishing them after install like willie mentioned, and using two of the cheaper ones.
I too will bed bushings in Devcon if have slight imperfections, will destroy the bushings maybe the bores when try to remove them another time. May be well worth having a machine shop true bore them on a Mill and install soft sleeves to support the hardened bushings or make Oversize hard bushings.
Perfect ! I found the correct size inner needle bearing races all over the internet. $31.75 for two of them on Ebay. USA made ! I did quite a bit of reading on HEF about loose bushings. Several well known members say to simply weld them in. Won't they crack or fracture ? I won't know how big the gap is in the cylinder mount until I get the new bushings. I would guess it is .030 to .040"
They will crack if welded. They are harder than woodpecker lips. I have always just glued them in. As long as you have all the voids filled with whatever you use for retaining compound they will be very well supported.
Loctite 660 is made just for this type of application. I used spring tension bushings in my slightly worn swing post along with Loctite 660. The Loctite 660 is apparently stronger when used by itself than with activator but takes longer to dry. Some heat helps to dry it faster. It is recommended for gaps up to .5mm/.020" so if centered in your bores should work. It is the largest gap filler in the Loctite range. http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/RetainingDesignGuidepdf https://www.capraraimola.com/documenti/documenti_articoli/7/660.d1479731964.pdf https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_660.html
http://indhydraulics.com/bearings/hard_steel?page=2 https://www.cylinderservices.net/store/search?keyword=hsb4048-32 Hell, even Amazon --> https://www.amazon.com/4048-32-Hard...srs=10904682011&ie=UTF8&qid=1581466528&sr=8-3
Thanks for those links. It takes time to look that stuff up. The 2 bushings I bought on Fleabay arrived today. I got lucky. The OD of them is only maybe .002 from being a tight fit in the trunion. The ID is small enough that I will need to have the pin turned a few thousandths on a lathe for a perfect fit. After the 2 bushings are cut into four of them, my cost will be less than $8.00 each.
I thought I would post an update on my cylinder project that I finally finished last week. Unfortunately (financially) the hydraulic shop that I took the cylinders to refused to cut the oversized bushings in half. So, I had to get the Case OEM bushings. I bedded the (one) loose bushing in Devcon. It is shown in the image. I paid the shop $150.00 to weld and machine the 4, very badly worn trunnion pins. The boom swing is now as tight as a new one. What a huge difference to operate !
The KEY Word is Hardened. If has been heat treated to Harden there is no good way to cut to fit. Lathe will usually chatter on them, just smoke mill bits, have to be ground or cut with specialty compound blades while kept cool to not affect the hardening process in the steel.
From the way the machinist said to not cut them I decided to do it his way. Besides it was an hour drive each way to his shop. Actually the OEM bushings had a very slightly larger outer diameter than the ones that needed cutting. I could tell from the way they fit in the worn bore on the cylinder. I am curious as to why that bushing got loose in the bore, and then wore it larger in a perfect circle. I thought that the way swings cylinder pivot back and forth the bore would have been elongated. But it wasn't.