Hello all i have an idea and am hoping someone else has struck this before. At the moment I'm building lease pads 4 gas rigs, it's a simple process. Once u get the pegs sorted and strip just shoot a few levels create an rl set up your laser gear and cut and fill. Ime using the slot method 2 cut and fill and leaving the slot rills on the fill once u get close to wear u need to b u split the pad into 3 even sections the middel is flat level and the edges have a 1 percent fall. Now instead of cleaning up the rills and then changing the levels keeping in mind the middle will have to b lifted to allow for the fall on the edges if I can Work out how to judge the amount of dirt in the rills in theory I can use that dirt to put my falls on and elevate the middle. Does anybody know how I can calculate this keeping in mind I can't go outside the pegs but I can change the level to make it work if I get it right my original rl should end up the half way point on the edge,and have no dirt left over. A little help please there must b a way to it with math I just haven't learned it yet.
The average elevation will be 2/3 of the way towards the middle of each edge strip or 2/9 in from each outside edge, if that helps any. As far as estimating the dirt in the rills, I think experience is going to help more than math.
Thanks Delmer I was hoping for a formula to work out the dirt in the rills and how far it will go.
Figuring the amount in the rills would be difficult, but were it me I believe I would take numerous shots on a small grid after stripping, average the shots, subtract a percentage for compaction, then plug in the desired finished profile. It still would not come out perfect as compaction and settling will vary, but after a few times you may be able to get pretty close. I guess the most difficult part would be calculating the slopes if the existing topography is on an incline. This sounds like it would be fun work, and after a few pads you will most likely be able to improve on the method.
Thanks Ox that's exactly what I'm doing except I forgot to allow for compaction thanks 4 the tip. Yes it if fun work ill let u know how it goes.
I'd put your grade stakes up. Rough it in say 6 inches below your grades, if it looks like you will be short, start roughing at 8 or 10 inches from your grades. To calculate the rills (if possible), I think you would spend to much time keeping all the rills even.
What is a rill .
He guys just got back rafter a month of pad building dozer Man U are right ox u 2 I've got it Sussed now . Shoot the grid push to within cooie cross push the rills on a guess and by the end of the 1 st cross slot u can guess it pretty we'll. Kev get help mate u need it.
Yair . . . Nice to see you back Cam85 . Does the pad work also include a mud and water pits? I did a couple around Injune way back and reckoned it was sweet work, put in the road, clear the site, dig the holes and use the dirt to level the pad plus a bit of borrow if needed. Cheers.
Thanks for the update Cam!
That was helpful, no doubt Kevin will be naming his next son after you.
No prob ox thanks scrub,yea the pads do have mini pits we call them a sump. There 4 the water and drilling mud. But I think they've changed apparently only used to put 1 peg in where well center is so u could turn the pad any way u wanted so as to use the natural lay of the land 2 ur advantage. But now they peg the lot reguardles of the topography. Probably done buy some goose in an office. Now days we have a hard stand the center of the pad around the sump there is a 500 bunting and the sides of the pad have to b on a 1 percent fall they have 2 b graded and rolled drains put in and all sorts of stuff these days. Funny I've been at injune 4 a month Dan parthinem ifestided paddock had a hard time getting gear out.
Hey kev a rill can be created buy any machine with a blade bole or bucket in this case it's the dirt left behind rafter the dozer has pushed the dirt on either side that has fallen out is the rill. Look up slot pushing that should help.