I have my 1968 580CK restored and looking pretty good, but have not started the backhoe rebuild. Last weekend I went to move a bucket of sandy soil without the heavy backhoe attached and the rear tires are getting very little traction since the weight of the front loader is acting like a sea-saw with a fat kid on one end and little varmit on the other end. I was spinning tires, and had to off-load half the bucket before being able to move the dirt. So, I realized that I need to rebuild the backhoe Control Tower/Valves pronto so I can mount the backhoe and again have good weight on the rear tires. Here is a pic of the Control Tower that I need to replace alot of the ORings. Can someone give me any tips/suggestions before I tackle this job? After removing the metal cover (in pic), do I just take the next bolt off, and then extract the entire assembly? I have all the ORings (thanks to Dale at Tractor Stuff) needed to do the rebuild, but was hoping to get some good advice before diving in. Thanks.
Remove the spool cap as in the picture, then you can pull the spool out of the bore.
Mikebramel.....thanks. How about the larger "check valve" nuts/caps on the sides......you can see a row of 6 of them in the first pic.? Do you think it is worth the risk of screwing them up to remove and inspect/clean? Do I need to remove them in order to slide out the longer spool that comes out from the top? Thanks.
When resealing the spools be sure to put the o ring on the spool instead of in the body, if the spool is shoved through the o ring it will shave the o ring rendering it worthless. Often the spools are scored on top and all you can do is polish them as good as you can usually you will get away with it. If you are going to split the valve sections to replace the section o rings clean the area perfectly clean. Do not over torque the tie bolts or spool binding can occour. Secondary relief o rings should be changed and if you suspect any to be faulty a good Case dealer has a fixture that your valve and seat can be installed in and bench tested for leakage and proper pressure. IIRC the operating pressure of the secondaries is stamped into the cartridge body.
Melben......Thanks again for your input. Here is a pic of the first valve/spool shaft pulled out: The metal retainer and its ORing are pictured as they have slid down from their position up near the spring end. Are you saying that it might be a good idea to "polish" the upper portion of the spool shaft (the end that connects to the levers on the control tower)? I will check each one and do as needed. Here is a pic of the spool shaft with new ORing beside its metal retainer, and with a light coat of grease on the shaft and ready to slide in. You can see that I do not have the top ORing on the shaft. Instead, I had removed the old one from the body, cleaned the area real good with diesel/toothbrush/Q-tips, then put some oil in the Oring groove, oil on the new Oring, and placed the new Oring into the valve body. I cautiously slid the greased shaft from the bottom end and up and through the new Oring at the top. A little pressure on the spring end of the shaft, and the bottom Oring then popped into place. (This works as long as the upper end of the shaft (the slotted end) has not been spread apart or is damaged). Seems that if I put the upper Oring onto the shaft, and slid it through all those resistance points in the valve body, it would be more likely to get damaged.......so, you think that the way I am doing it will work? The only hydraulic leaks were at the top of these spools where they connect with the linkage to the operating levers. So, I was hoping to just remove the 6 spool shafts and replace the two Orings on each one. Do you think it necessary to take any of the other shafts, relief valves apart? (Backhoe was working fine, except for the leaking at the top of some of these 6 spools). Thanks.
Yes , perfect, Took it for granted that you would know the top ring went in the body prior to installing the spool. yes, polish the spools to give a good surface to seat the oring on
Melben.......10-4, got it. First time I have ever performed this operation, and it seems pretty straight forward. Gotta get the old hoe put back on the tractor so I will have some traction while lifting logs. (I just picked-up a good set of lifting forks that fit on the loader bucket, and am looking forward to wearing them in a bit, and without the rear tires coming off the ground).
Well done sir.. When my buddy got his 580, some of the controls for the bh were frozen to each other.. when you went to move the bucket, the stabilizers would go up or down.. lol.. that was fun to figure out.. I ended up removing the whole control unit and cleaning it up and replacing the zerks.. lets just say, that control unit hadn't seen any lube in YEARS..
the scpumpguy.....Thanks from the guy a "little south of tha border"......at least thats the sign I see on 95 while driving from Va to SC. Just hoping I can put this valve assembly back on and have no leaks. Yep, that must have been driving you nutty with the valves frozen to each other......all kinds of wierd things must have been happening when you pushed those levers. Yea, I also have a couple zerks that are broken off, and I need to put new ones in and grease her well. Watch out for those crocs down there in the SC outback!
Do you need to prime this valve assembly after rebuilding? In the last picture above, you will see a plug on the right side of the assembly. There is also a plug on the other side. Is it a good idea to first mount this heavy valve/tower assembly back into the backhoe body, and then open the two plugs and use a funnel to fill her up with hydraulic fluid? Seems this would reduce the amount of air surging back through the lines and bubbling up in the main resevior. Is this why the two plugs are there? Thanks.
No, open center design. Self bleeding. Constant flow from pump to valve to tank
mikebramel.......Ok, self bleeding. I wonder what the two pipe plugs are for on each side?
1st guess - gauge ports. 2nd guess - to clean the casting out. Happy thanksgiving
mike........yea, thats it.......for screwing in pressure gauges to check the various pressure readings. Also for flushing out the casting......man, your good. You too....happy Tgiving/Christmas.
OK......I got the heavy valve assembly rebuilt, and began the job of installing it back into the backhoe body, and hooking up all the hoses to it. I was thinking that this would be a pretty straight-forward job, but I must say it was a pretty difficult job, as I will describe. Here is a pic of the valve assembly mounted back into the backhoe: It was quite a puzzle to decide which lines to install first so that my large "crows-foot" wrench could torque down without being hindered by another line, or general "stuff" in the way so as not to be able to get the wrench on to do the tightening. I figured that since I was turning "clockwise", that I should start on the left side and work to the right......bottom row first, then the top row. This process seemed to work, but I had to loosen a couple in order to shift around the lines and the hard "U" shaped metal lines in order to get the mess to come together in a workable manner. The Crows foot sizes were 1 1/4 and 7/8 on the smaller ones, and I believe 1 1/2 on the two large outer lines (feeder and return to pump). I thought I had them all torqued down good, but after the long process of backing the tractor back into the backhoe, attaching the quick-disconnects, and struggling to get the large upper pins in place, I then realized that 2 or 3 of the lines were leaking where they screw into the rebuilt valve tower. I thought that I had torqued them real good, but they were loose. I believe that the large Crows-foot wrench was rubbing against another hose end, and stopping the wrench......so I thought it was torqued good, but it was actually still loose. I had to pull out the pins and disconnect the hoses and pull the tractor forward to make room to tighten the hose ends. Had to stop because of rain. I am wondering if Case has an exact method as to what is the best order for installing/tightening these hoses. Do you start on the left side and work your way accross, one row at a time. Or do all the larger 1 1/4" lines first, and then the smaller 7/8" last (since the wrench is easier to find room and fit on the 7/8" hoses). Also, the tractor mounts are fixed and do not move.....so, when backing the tractor into backhoe, there is very little tolerance. Then, getting those large 1/4" thick washers in place along with the big pins is a pretty frustrating process. I assume you have to just do one side first and then use a combination of the hydrualics to lift the backhoe up/down/sideways to get the last pin/washer in. Are there any good tips on this process? Does Case make a specific type of crows-wrench that is narrow and turns without running into the adjacent line? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also, I believe I read prior posts where someone was removing this backhoe valve assembly, rebuilding it, and putting it back on WITH THE BACKHOE STILL ATTACHED TO THE TRACTOR. I can only say that this person must have been the most patient person in the world, and probably a shape-shifter......to get around in that cramped/confined space and pull off this miracle. I found that just trying to tighten one of the upper lines had me contorted and twisted up under the seat and fussing and cussing way too much......so, the only solution was to disconnect and move the tractor out of the way. I applaud that person who said he had performed this job with the backhoe attached to the tractor.
Don't know the specifics of this one. But, I usually start in the center and work out. I put the crowfoot wrenches on a 1/2" drive 24" locking flex head ratchet. OR combination wrenches with a hammer tap. OR angle wrenches with a hammer tap. .... aren't you going to need more tools for your next project? LOL
Hi 68case been watching your post's on your tractor i have a 1970 ck and for 3 years now have been making repairs to it while using it this winter im doing a split on it to give it some new clutches/seals/gaskets it has been a ongoing process since i have owned it i might even throw some paint at her this winter?/ Anyway i just helped my neighbor with his we pulled the control valves and had someone reseal them for him then we installed them back in the backhoe and yea kinda a pain.We installed the lines from left to right put the bottom on first then the top working toward the right and used straight wrenches it was kind of like doing a puzzle but went alright. Also looking at your last picture i cant see any rubber dust boots on the top of your spools they go between where your control rod pins to the spool and the top of the valve body. I think one of the reasons these start leaking in the first place from the top is because dirt gets in from the top of spool and tears up the o-ring at the top of the spool so if yours are not there you might look at getting some for it. My 70ck had leaks on the top when i got it to and there was a lot of dirt around mine when i bought i have since fixed the leaks and am always keeping that area sprayed out from dirt. Anyway yours is looking nice and keep the info flowing its good stuff..
mikebramel......starting from the center and working out may be the answer. I think the problem is that the Crow-foot set I bought are designed a bit too big......and so, there isnt much movement before the crow-foot hits the hose nut beside it and stops. I was tempted to take the crow-foot to the grinder and take some off. I am using a fat crow-foot, an adjustable length 1/2 drive, and an extension to bring the adjustable wrench outward where there is room......its not a friendly set-up, and takes alot of patience. When I get to the 7/8" size hose nuts, it is quite a joy to pick up a straight 7/8" wrench and toss the crow-foot and accessories to the side. Yep......I surely will need more tools for my next project. Problem is that I cant find the ones I do have.....I have a set of the nice Case Crows foot wrenches just for this job, but some dern crow probably flew off with them.
xpackdeals.......Hey xpack....yea, we have essentially the same tractor, and have been going thru alot of the same repairs......and some have been real challenging for sure. Post some more pics if you have time.....and some before/after when you "throw that paint at her". If you want new "Construction King 580" hood decals, Dale at Tractor Stuff has all that for a fair price. OK, you installed the lines from the left to the right (since your'e turning the wrench clock-wise, this makes sense). Those rubber dust boots on top of the spools. I agree that it seems like a good idea to use them, but a mechanic at this site had replied in a post that he felt that the boots just trapped moisture and were not a good idea. But I tend to agree with you that keeping those fine particles of dirt away from those upper seals is more important. Maybe I will rig up some type of dirt shield above them, or something. I will also keep it covered so rain/moisture will not be getting to the valves. Thanks for the input, and I look forward to seeing more posts on your progress. Hey.......how close is your rear tire thread away from the backhoe stabilizers? I put new tires on, and now about all the gap I have can be measured with a set of spark plug gap gauges. One of the stabilizer lines is rubbing the tire, and I need to adjust that also. These are the same size tires that I took off, and I was actually considering going with the next taller size (which the Case manual says will work). Glad I didnt, as there is absolutely no more room back there. I might also have to try to add washers to the stabilizer pivot point so as to force it rearward as much as possible. Always a new challenge when doing all these repairs.
My rear tire size is 14.9x24 i just went and looked at them as far as the gap i am thinking i have at least 1" i just removed my backhoe the other day so i cant measure it right now.I am getting her ready to split it this winter and hopefully fix some stuff. I am pretty sure the lines are close with them in the down position but no rubbing . I can get you a measurement after i put it back together but that won't be for a while. As far as a challenge i have also been helping my neighbor with a 1973 580b he just bought and the biggest thing i am finding with these older machines is that people didn't keep up with the maintenance on them which starts out as little problems at first but leads to major problems later.Mine and my neighbors were left outside and i have seen more water in oil than i care to. We both have barns so now thats where they live now. If i didnt have the barn it would be tarped with a quality tarp. As far as my ck i absolutely love this tractor i only gave $3100.00 delivered for it and it did'nt move, bad lines, gauges broke or missing, leaking cylinders,tires were junk,no brakes, and so ugly it could scare you just to look at it but it ran good and hydraulics worked. Over the past 3 years I have been bringing it back to life concentrating on the major stuff working my way to the minor stuff im hoping after this split the majors are done. But up to this point i have worked the heck out of this and it has handled anything i have asked of it.They work so hard i swear somedays mine talks and its saying I want to go longer and im saying im beat down and done for the day, but for me its awesome knowing you can quit for the day and it survived a day of removing stumps,pushing trees,or digging a basement and it literally outworks you. Thanks for the lead on Dale i will keep him in mind when i get there. I am curious about the gauge on your hydraulic filter housing mine had a plug in it i have since put a old pressure gauge in mine but i would like a original can you send a good pic of yours so i know what im looking for. If i can help with anything else on yours feel free to ask..
Yep, thats the size I just bought.....14.9 x 24......and theres no way the larger size would have fit.......almost made an expensive mistake. The outriggers are too close in my opinion, but thats from years of operators forgetting and leaving the legs down as they try to back up, and mine are probably bent a bit toward the tires. I will try adding some washers and moving the hose connection inward a couple inches. Since I still have the backhoe disconnected, now is the time to make the hose adjustments. Yep, lack of maintenance and leaving the tractor outside in the elements do their toll. I would like to build a shed high enough to get the tractor in, and that means a door about 10 feet high. In the mean time, I try to use some old heavy duty pool liner pieces or tarps to keep the weather off, and try to cover all the hydraulic cylinders. These old 580s are built pretty stout, and as long as we dont kill them due to lack of maintenance, we should be able to put them in our Wills and pass them down a few generations......ha ha, maybe.....maybe not. Hydraulic gauge: I will look in my pics and attach the best I can find. I think it is a simple gauge, but has the color zones instead of actual pressure numbers. These are a couple pics of the hydraulic gauge I took some time ago. There is a green zone and a red zone. The green zone appears to be about 1/3 of the needle zone on the left, and the red about 2/3 of the zone on the right. After changing the filter, mine operates right in the middle of the green zone. I have no idea what the number pressure reading would be. Dale at Tractor Stuff may be able to get new ones, and sometimes he has decent used ones available.
Update: Installing the Backhoe back onto the Case 580CK: First, here is one of the crows foot and extension/wrench I used on alot of the hose ends when torqueing them to the hydraulic tower: I found that it was essential to screw on the smaller size (7/8") hoses LAST. This allows enough room to use the large 1 1/4" Crows Foot on the larger hoses. Trying to get that last 7/8" hose in the middle of the top row was a challenge. I was using a long 7/8" wrench, and just had no room to work it, and was pulling out my hair. Wish I had a set of midget wrenches, which would have helped. Then, I decided to "think outside the box". In this picture, you can see the "box" that surrounds all these lines I was working on. I finally noticed a small gap above this "box" area, and tried wiggling the wrench in up there, and there was a perfect amount of space to then get it on the hose end and tighten away. So, remember to think "outside the box". Ha ha: ****ANOTHER IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE******: I had the tractor running so as to slowly back her up and hitch up the backhoe. She was running at a very slow idle, and I made a big GOOF........I reached below the loader handle, and unplugged the Quick Disconnect so I could plug the Backhoe line where it needed to go. I forgot to shut down the engine first. So, hydraulic fluid came spraying out right in my face, and all over the tractor. Fortunately, I blinked my eyes before the fluid smacked me in the face, and did not get it in my eyes. Im thinking that if the tractor had been running at a faster idle speed, then I may have had that fluid hit me under alot more pressure......could have been a pretty bad afternoon. Fortunately, a quick shower and new shirt, and I was back in business. I found it was essential to use the front loader bucket to slowly get the rig in the right angle so the big pins would slide through. Those huges washers/spacers made it more challenging, but using a small crow-bar to wedge the gap open more did the trick. On the other side, I used the backhoe controls to raise the hoe bucket a bit which allowed the other pin to slide in. I put a ton of grease on all the connection points, and on the pins.......so, next time the pins should be rust-free and come out easy. The hydraulic tower is now totally LEAK-FREE! Great to see a job work out well, even with a face full of hydraulic oil. ~~~~~SO, PLEASE REMEMBER TO TURN OFF THE TRACTOR WHEN UNHOOKING THE QUICK DISCONNECTS~~~~~~~ Here is a pic of the Quick Disconnect under the loader control handle:
Wheres the moneyshot with the backhoe attached i was curious about seeing you tire clearance.Sorry to hear about the bath but i am surprised your tractor kept running.The reason i say that is when i took mine off the first time i didnt loop the hose and it wouldnt even turn over the motor what i soon figured out was it deadlocked the hydraulics and i have since read where it can tear up your pump.Just something to know to save on pump. I am watching for the moneyshot (backhoe mounted) Hey 68 just had a thought i see you still need to paint your backhoe so when you get the paint mixed let me know i have a little itty bitty small baby size project going on right now hahaha
Xpac......well, I had fluid dripping down my face but quickly pulled the shut-off switch. That would have really taken the cake.....to do all this restoration and then end up blowing up the pump from a stupid mistake......that would have been real cake in the face, to go on top of the hydraulic fluid in the face. I should have known better, because like you, I tried to start her with the line disconnected and she would not turn over. I even tried jump starting, charging the battery, etc., then just walked away and realized the mistake. Came back, connected the line, and she started right up, no problems. Backhoe is so darn OOOOO-gly (ugly), that Im skirrred to take a picture of it. Here she is, the "money shot", or maybe "kill shot". I will have to get a pic of the tire clearance tomorrow. I did adjust the stabilizer hoses so they were not rubbing on the tire tread. Yea man......I can send you a post card with the exact color and the magic formula.
Dont feel alone i have done that a couple times myself.I had a valve on a log splitter blow up in my freshly painted shop and oil sprayed a wall in about a 12ft path theres still battle scars on that wall from it needless to say i also got a oil bath.Good looking hoe when ya gonna paint it ???
Xpac.........Fellow member of the Hydraulic Fluid in the Face Club.......I think anyone who owns one of these Elderly Iron tractors will inevitable be involved with a good hydraulic bath at some point. On the bright side, we have had our's already, and therefore should not have to endure this membership requirement again. Here is a pic of the front forks I put on today: I took her outback in the forrest to move a few logs. Here is one of two large paulownia logs that I cut a few weeks ago after the wind blew the tree down. I am hoping someone will want to buy it, but found that the paulownia market seems to have really dried up compared to the craze in the 90s. It has good tight growth rings, and would make some good 1" boards: Here is a pic showing how close my back tire is to the stabilizer leg: Due to the "slop" in the hinge, the leg moves back and almost touches the tire when down. I need to put some large washers in the hinge to keep the stabilizer as far back as possible. I will wait until spring to begin painting the backhoe. I also need to rebuild the stabilizer cylinders as they are still leaking some.
the rounded crows foot wrench works little easier then open end crows foot. Still slow tightening but works little easier. Just keep reminding yourself to breathe.Boy that sure is nice looker! Could you send pictures of roll over protection system( R.O.P.S) on your machine. I'm little jealous.
It looks like you have about the same amount of clearance as mine.I will get you a shot of mine as soon as its back on.I removed all the backhoe chains from mine i didnt want to run them over and having problems with them and i am considering new bushings and pins for the stabilizers mine are bad.Also keep a eye on the 4 bolts that are on the top and bottom cap for the swing cylinders mine and my neighbors were coming loose i cleaned them good and locktite them in and so far they are holding just something to watch for.
Adolfcase.......Yep, it seems you never have enough tools for all the jobs. I also want to get a set of snubby wrenches, which would have been a big help in these tight spaces. Breathe.........one thousand one, one thousand two,........attack! Or, as General Forrest would say when being attacked from two sides and outnumbered 100 to 1, "Charge them BOTH Ways!!!!!" Thanks for the good comments......you would be surprised how neglected this rig was looking before I decided to "Charge her both ways!" ROPS......you want detailed pics to try to make one? I will send a couple here, and if you want more detail, just let me know. Here is one of the back.....the bottom has some pretty hefty supports that bolt to the axle, but just standard square tubing all the way up and under the roof. Side view showing the angles of the tubing: Heres a good one showing how the ROPS mounts to the axle at the bottom, and how it mounts up on the top of the hydraulic reservior on each side: I hope that helps some.
Xpac......10-4 on that......no rush, but I am curious as to how close yours comes to the tire. The manual said I could use the larger 16.9 x 24, but theres no way those tires would have cleared.....and I came real close to ordering them. I just used a chain to keep the stabilizers up so they dont keep oozing fluid and slowly leaking down. Regarding chains, my backhoe has a spot for a chain to connect about 3 feet from the bottom......I believe chains were run up to the side of the control tower for road driving, to ensure the boom did not fall down and drag on the road? In this pic, you see the hook on the side of the tower.....was that for a chain going to the stabilizer leg? If so, where did the chain connect to hold the heavy backhoe up? Almost seems it would need to be up on the ROPS. 4 bolts on the top and bottom cap for swing cylinders......Funny you mentioned this. Yesterday I looked up from the bottom and noticed one pin was hanging a couple inches out of the bottom. The other one was flush with the bottom. The loose one will push back upward with no problem, but falls right back down. Something I will have to deal with next spring.
Late into this discussion, have been following the other threads with great interest. A few years ago, I had severe leaking from one of my swing cylinders. I removed it and had the local hydraulics shop have a look at it. As soon as we pulled it off the truck, the foreman said, oh, old Case 580ck, the rod is probably bent. He was right and went on to advise that I check the swing pivots as the geometry could cause the bent rod. When I replaced the rebuilt cylinders on the machine, along with new hoses, I went to Fastenal and bought new bolts. Properly torqued, they have not come loose. The old ones seemed always to be loose and that probably caused the issue in the first place. Don't forget those grease nipples on the top and bottom, as they tend to be buried in debris and dirt. I am working to get my currently dead 580CK into the shop and once I get going sometime in the New Year, will post progress and rely on those here for their experience. It will be a full 188D out of frame overhaul and a shuttle refurbishment, so we expect to cover a lot of the same territory as some have posted recently. Phil was a great resource and I do wonder what happened in his life for him to leave us here for now a few years. Anyone know the story?
Juskatla....(Im guessing you are down near Stone Mtn, Atlanta??....Or maybe ancient Atlantis? ) I look forward to seeing your progress as you get into your rebuild/resto. Yep.....my stabilizers will need washers and new pviot pins, as both sides are real sloppy. As you can see in the pic above, the old tires had been rubbing against the cylinder when they were down. One side has a slight "bend", and we rebuilt it but she is still leaking some. So, I will be looking for a pair of good used ones since the price of new ones are way up there.
Jusk I agree Phil had it together with these he also seemed willing to help anyone whatever happened i hope he is ok.I had one of those pistons come off inside the bore and when i let go of the swing it made a bang and the hoe kept swinging kinda puts you in the grab your face with both hand and pinch your butt cheeks as tight as you can while you try to figure out what just happened and whats that gonnna cost me !!! It also good to know im not the only one crazy enough to put so much into these old hunks of iron that just wont die just like 68 on here he has done a lot to his and i just seen a new to me thread where he changed his front bearings my hats off to him and he has shared all of his work with everyone.I guess it is like owning a harley if i have to explain it then you probably wouldnt understand. When you get started if i can help in anyway just let me know i look foward to seeing your thread about this as well.
I thought that the chain is welded to the stabilizer then runs threw that loop to the boom to hold them both up while traveling. I have traveled with mine 3 times on the road and no problems with it dropping now and then i do lift the boom as it drifts very little.Ha i noticed one of those pins on the bottom of mine was also falling down when i removed the hoe for this teardown i will be correcting it when i put it back on if i remember those pins had a groove in them to line up with the bolt so im not sure why it has done that on mine but the bolt is still there in mine.
xpack.......Yea, those front spindles and bearings were a blast! Actually kinda difficult on one side, but I got her done, and am glad since the bearings were shot on both sides. Funny about the piston coming off inside the bore, and your physical reaction to the dilemma. Almost as much fun as an explosion of hydrualic fluid in our face. I guess doing these repairs is kinda like hiking up Everest......just taking on the challenge and working through the hair-pulling issues, and finally getting it done right......theres a little pride to that, and a great amount of learning as you do it. Havent needed to use the ice pic yet, but who knows when I start working on the backhoe.
I'm actually as far west of you as possible, short of Alaska. Black Creek is on balmy Vancouver Island in British Columbia.... My project is sitting outside and the immediate task is to either get it running and drop the how, or drag the whole thing into the shop the hard way. Its amazing what a Turfor and couple of chains will do for you. I do wish I had set a few anchors in the floor when we poured it though...
Juskatla.......hey, you have the Straight of Georgia up there, so when I said "Atlanta", I was kinda close. Ha ha. Yep, you are way up there, but I bet thats some beautiful territory around you. Turfor.....I had no idea what that was until I goooglled it....a super duper heavy duty come-along device. At first I thought it was some type of dozer. Learn something new every day. Good idea....having anchors in the concrete for the tufor to pull from.
Both Xpack and your self have cornered the postings for 580CKs these days. Its great to have pics and comments on what/how that will benefit the rest of us who own these old work horses. The Turfor is very handy for long pulls as the cable on mine is 150 ft and can be adjusted to pull anywhere along that length. I have help coming on Thursday and then my grandson and I will see if we can get her started again. If not, then the long hard pull into the shop will get underway. Back on Topic, I had my control valve off a couple of years ago and replaced all the O rings for the adapters on each section. Solved a lot of leaks but I have two spools that still leak, so once the engine is dealt with, I will drop the hoe and pull the valve assembly out again to do the same as you have with yours. My hydraulic guy advised that for that work, to only use Case bits as his were not going to work. I will order them before staring that job, likely in the spring. The Crow foot wrench that Case shows in their parts book is the tool to have. I have two that came with the machine and they fit in between the tubes and hoses just fine, being round. I believe they are OTC, but not sure.
Juskatla.......Yea, xpack and I have been chewing the pfat about these old CKs......and hopefully it will help others down the road. Control valves.....I ordered all the proper Case ORings from Tractor Stuff, and got more than I needed. I ordered ORings to replace everything in the control valve assembly, and ended up just leaving the big box together and only replacing 2 orings on each of the 6 valves. It was actually easier than I had thought to do. The cost for all the Orings, and with a couple extra for each type, was only around $40. You may want to order those top boots as Xpac suggested....but I didnt, as I had read someplace that some people felt it trapped water underneath them. Wish I had put the boots on. Yep, the Case Crows Foot wrenches would be the best.....I couldnt find my set and ordered the cheaper set.
Juskatla It sure will make it easier if you can get the hoe off before you split it. I cant imagine trying to do it with the hoe on.And i have been thinking about how a fella could do this safely without another tractor or piece of equipment and really the only thing that comes to mind would be a 3 ton floor jack to jack it up off there of course that would be after the top pins were out,Then i would set it on 4x4 blocks enough to make it safe and get your jack out from under it.Anyway if you decide to tackle this just use caution these things are extremely heavy.The upside to this if you do have to remove the hoe without it running it will get your vocabulary warmed up for the split:Banghead. And if you do get the hoe off it will be a lot easier to move around.Pull it around with a truck. Do you have any pics of yours you can post and im just curious why was it you need to split yours i remember you saying you needed to do it i just dont remember why. I think i just about have 68case convinced to get his practice painting his engine by coming to michigan and painting mine i will gladly make you the offer to do the mechanics just for practice reasons if your interested I do look forward to seeing your progress Please keep it coming Have a good one Please keep us posted i look forward to seeing your progress.
xpack, I am going to see if we can get it running and then moved into the storage shed to drop the backhoe. I have never had it off in the 25 yrs I have owned the machine so it will be interesting. I do have all the necessary jacks and tools to deal with pretty much anything here, including a 1 ton overhead crane. If it will run, then moving it back into the shop will be a piece of cake. This all started with it becoming difficult to start and then discovering water in the pan. I drained and changed everything before the summer but other priorities got in the way of any further progress. As I am the third owner of my '68 CK, and it has never been apart, the plan is to go the whole route on the engine and do an out of frame major overhaul. The manuals give lots of information about what to support when splitting and I have already made the jigs up to hold the transmission case and the rear of the engine, complete with adjusters and wheels. I used unistrut and a couple of adjustable scaffold wheel sets for those. They bolt to the castings and will be good on the concrete shop floor. While its apart and of at the machine shop, my intention is to service the shuttle and replace a seal between the shuttle case and the transmission. Its slowly builds oil in the transmission case, transferred apparently from the shuttle. Since it will be apart, I will drill the case for the plug that Phil described to clean the shuttle pump intake and go over the whole thing. What I didn't mention before is that this will all have to take place on an island that doesn't have ferry service so moving the heavy stuff will take some planning. Landing craft or tug and barge are the only options. I don't think I could get the block into my boat and know my back would agree. This will be a somewhat slow process but for the benefit of everyone who may have these issues, I will do my best to capture this with pictures to post. As I am in an area with lots of industrial logging and mining equipment, there are good and reliable businesses to do what I can't myself. Thanks for sharing your work with all of us here and for your suggestions on doing this safely and hopefully successfully.
For your safety and anybody that gets around the backhoe, before you remove it from the tractor, clamp an angle iron around the extended rod of both stabilizers. I didn't do that the first time I ever removed a backhoe from a tractor and had one fall over on its side. No harm was done but it could have been a disaster.
Amen on the safety Tinkerer these are very heavy and can be dangerous. Juskatla The top pins will probably be your biggest challenge getting the pressure off them was my biggest problem you might want to start spraying them in case there rusted and have no movement.Also watch when your lifting it off the tractor as not to pinch no hoses lets just say the first time i removed mine the budget grew a little to replace a hose or two haha If you get it to run and have the hydraulics i raised mine with the hydraulics and pulled ahead just enough to raise it high enough to get some big logs under the mainframe under the valve section. I left my stabilizers up on mine this time so i can get new bushings and pins made for them while its off there. Is yours a power shuttle the reason i ask is because that is what mine is and it shares the same oil as the transmission on mine and the rearend is a seperate compartment for the 80-90 or is that what you meant shuttle/tranny mixing with the rearend oil. I am going to check my rearend to see if that is a issue on mine while its apart if so im going there as well. And wow a island, a boat, a ferry, and a heavy piece of equiptment.I guess my challenges are minor compared to what your dealing with i will be thinking of this the next time the vocabulary meter enters the red zone to try to keep it in the green zone but honestly it probably wont stop it from going red I look forward to seeing your post and pics and by all means when you get started feel free to ask any questions if i can help answer them i will .
Juskatla.......Holy Cow Batman! So you had to put a long snorkle on the ole Case 580 and drive her under water when you got her to the island years ago? That does make it more challenging getting heavy parts moved back and forth......time to open the books and research Tesla Technology.....electro gravetics/anti-gravity. But once you figger it all all, the Federalles will be getting their feet wet trying to come after you. Sounds like you got it all planned out perfectly, and it should go well.......but like you said, if you can get her to swallow a bit of either and run for a few minutes to get her in your shop, that will save alot of work.
xpac......Now I realize that I should have also replaced the bushings/pins on the stabilizers. I dont have much working room now, but I guess I can just take the rear tires off to get more room. Would be nice to just put the entire backhoe on a truck and sent it out for a total rebuild, or find an un-used one sitting in the back of a warehouse someplace for a cheap price.
Yea man.......I have my backpac filled up with yeller and orange paint cans, brushes, and rollers. Was going to begin my hike up to the Mitten State in a few days. Guess I will need my snow shoes as there will surely be a ton of snow there soon.
[QUOTE Is yours a power shuttle the reason i ask is because that is what mine is and it shares the same oil as the transmission on mine and the rearend is a seperate compartment for the 80-90 or is that what you meant shuttle/tranny mixing with the rearend oil. I am going to check my rearend to see if that is a issue on mine while its apart if so im going there as well. And wow a island, a boat, a ferry, and a heavy piece of equiptment.I guess my challenges are minor compared to what your dealing with i will be thinking of this the next time the vocabulary meter enters the red zone to try to keep it in the green zone but honestly it probably wont stop it from going red I look forward to seeing your post and pics and by all means when you get started feel free to ask any questions if i can help answer them i will .[/QUOTE] Yes, its a shuttle and I did mean the shuttle/trans oil was getting into the rear. It was late and I had a glass or two of wine. I am a long time lurker on this site and along with many others, Tinkerer, Melben and Lantraxco have provided much good information that is available here with 'search'. The logistics are for here are not as onerous as it might appear, just takes a bit more forward planning. As anything heavy, on and off the island requires the tug and barge, we take advantage of that when its coming. Gravel trucks, concrete and loads of building supplies are the norm and smaller loads in pickup size come on a landing craft. Cost is the ruling factor, so we have to make it pay. That usually means a full load, shared trip if possible and patience waiting for the right tides and timings. If I get frustrated with a project, I can just close the door, jump in the boat and go home to our regular house until I miss it hear enough and come back. Safety is always my first concern, as in places like mine (cottage country) there is some delay in getting assistance in the event of an emergency and an hour additional fast boat ride to the hospital. I am fortunate to have a reasonably well equipped shop and the space in it to do this. The tricks and experience of those who post here will be very useful. Tinker's suggestion for angle iron to widen the base of the backhoe is a good one. I have some pictures and once at home will post them to share the 'before' situation. My old girl is like most of this age, in need of more than cosmetic maintenance but over the years, I have done a lot of ongoing repairs. As it goes along, it will be my turn to show tell and ask.
Juskatla There is a good write up on here if you havent read it its by pacratc its called roughest 580ck aint movin theres about 20? pages and it has some good stuff in it for the power shuttle.
You could always grab a little shine from down there to keep you warm, and the way this winter is going right now i will have the grill fired up and the beer on ice when you get here!!! no complaints here about the winter so far.
Yea, I am only an hour from West Virginia.....thats where you get the good stuff......so good you can use it as either to help start the old Case 580. Yea, its been a warm one in Va. this year too.....60s this week, and maybe in the 70s on Saturday. Amazing.
Hey 68 her is a shot of the posi lock pedal
here is a shot of park brake lever
under floor pan park break rods
close up of teeth cut into brake lever
this is where the posi lock pedal hooks notice the extra cover on the brake cover do you have this extra cover
this is the bracket that the brake lever with the teeth go threw does yours have any of this
heres both from the top put some pics of yours here and we can compare
Xpac......thanks for taking the time to post all those parking brake pictures. As you can see in this first pic, I have no parking brake lever, and my rig does not have the differential lock pedal coming out of that hole: In the next pic, you will see a flange (beside that grease fitting) between the brake pedal linkages.....is this where the parking brake connects to? Here you can see from a bit further back, and also may see that my brake shoe cover does not have the differential lock piggy-backed to it.......which does make working on the brakes a bit easier. When you go to TractorStuff and see "Dial", if he has these parts hanging on the display wall, maybe you can snag them for me before another Aussie beats me to it......ha ha.
heres where everything hooks up
another shot where the bolt is is where the notched brake lever hooks
Xpac......so does the parking brake linkage connect to the tapered flange that is in the 7:00 position in the pic?
another shot
68 It hooks where my thumb is on that bolt
68 If you look under your floor pan is there any bracketry like these 2 brackets 1 0f them is the one where the brake linkage the ribbed one comes threw the longated hole the other is the one mounted to this bracket pointing up with 2 holes in it
xpack, Your diff lock and parking brake is exactly the same as mine. I have to clean up under there before any pics will show anything other than grease and dirt. I did get the loader and tractor degreased and power washed this afternoon. Still some more tomorrow if its not too nasty out.
68 never mind the second bracket i see yours mounted on the torque tube how about the frist one do you have that one the linkage goes threw
JUSK I know that is a nasty job but well worth it did you get her to fire up or just cleaning right now
xpac......Nope, I have none of the parking brake parts/pieces......sobb, sob, sob. HeavyEquipmentForums
Unfortunately, after new fuel, filters, bleeding the system and putting brand new industrial batteries in for starting, it will only crank a bit and then stop, Rather than spend hours outside on this possible hydro lock or starter issue, I will just go ahead and finish as much cleaning as possible then move it inside. If I can't get the hoe off first, we will roll it to the back of the shop and drop it there. Moving should not be too bad once we get underway. Once inside I can work away regardless of what is going on outside. I have tomorrow and then we head back to our home for Christmas, so this will likely become a New Years move.
Ok 68 so i think what you have missing is the bracket with the longgated slot cut into it and the linkage which is all 1 piece it has the round stock (handle part) welded to the flatstock with the ribs so im thinking there are only 2 parts you need.If Dale has it i will get it for you
Juskatal/Xpac......Im wondering if you could disconnect the hydraulic lines to the pump, and then try starting......maybe that would relieve any pressure causing the hydro locking, and allow the diesel to start? Maybe the valve is locking up under the loader control handle, or maybe the quick-disconnect to the backhoe is off?
If your gonna play with it tomorrow you might give her a little shot of starting fluid i used to do that on mine when it was real cold and wouldnt turn over good and fast and it usually fired it up just a thought but also you might check this first to make sure one of the 2 main lines hasnt come uncoupled where the backhoe lines hook to the 2 tractor lines if one has come loose it can ruin your pump im told and from experience of doing it i know it will make the motor turn over very hard if at all..sometimes i have seen them look like they are coupled but when you pull on them they arent???/ just some quick ideas
Thanks for the suggestions, Everything looks good, but tomorrow, I'll go over it again. I am reluctant to start into too much when its only 50' from the shop door. I could pull the injectors, but I'd rather leave it together until I have light, heat and a clean floor under it. When I do get this going, I'll post on the Project thread to keep it all in one place. Its dark now, so for tomorrow, I'll finish the degreasing and have another look at everything.
Sounds good JUSK i know its a pain outside when its cold out i will be watching your project post
68 are you tempting Jusk to join the oil bath brotherhood:nono
Xpac......getting a good laugh on this end......."oil bath brotherhood"...... HeavyEquipmentForums
Xpac....Sure, you can ask "Dial" if he has any of the parking brake pieces. But I highly doubt it since he already told me that he would let me know if he dug one up someplace. If he does, just have him hold it and he can contact me via email or phone whenever he has time (some weeks he is really swampped). Thanks for the big help.
Will do .And the way i see it one hand washes the other.. anytime
68 this is a crappy pic but what it is supposed to be is where the fuel cutoff cable attaches to the engine block im pretty sure someone cobbled this on mine it is located kinda behind the fuel filter what is your clamp look like thanks
68 heres a better shot of the fuel gauge bracket you can see on both sides the spring type ground straps and when this is put over the back of the gauge there is pretty good pressure on both sides so it has to get ground.also you can see the white insulators in the holes where the mounting studs come threw the holes so it dont short out
another shot
580CK Brothers: Ya, I took the bath today, not hydraulic oil but laying under the machine in the mud and power washing the crud off everything underneath. Hot oil would not have been nicer either... I especially like the gobs of dirty grease on my raingear when I went back into the shop and rubbed up against the white shop entrance door. GoJo to the rescue.
Xpac......As I recall, the end of the fuel cable was held to the block with a real small nut (maybe a square end), and it just applied pressure to the cable. Im glad you sent this pic.......when I look at some pics I took, it looks like I did not even see and use this engine-mounted hold down bracket......you can see the new black cable in the background, and it is not hooked up to it. So I need to go back and try to get it mounted to it. There is another small screw that holds the wire near the end. This pic shows the small screw that bites down on the end of the shut-off wire.
Xpac.....good pic of the fuel gauge mounting bracket. Mine did not have those friction clamp/ground brackets. I still need to pull the front square cover and try to run a ground up to the back of the gauge and see it that allows the gauge to work.
Xpac......What do you say, is Juskatla now an official member of the Oil and Goo on Face & Body Club? (You had another name for it). I vote "yea". Plus, give him a big E for Effort for crawling in the mud and spraying upward on the tractor's belly.......bonus points if he did it without safety glasses. Ha ha, hee hawww. HeavyEquipmentForums
I have that second inner cable screw its that one on the block on mine thats cobbled maybe Jusk has one on his he can get a pic of thanks
Ahhh the (OIL BATH BROTHERHOOD) shes a dirty club but i do believe Jusk is all in. My carharts got water proofed from all the grease that got on them and like Jusk says the mud you get to lay in and pools of water oh joy .And the best ones are the ones where the grease sticks so well you have to push it the length of the tractor with the pressure washer to get it to fall off.
xpac........Thats the name.....Oil Bath Brotherhood "OBB". Most of the people on this site probably qualify to join the OBB.......hey, charge a buck per head, and you will be richer than President Donald Trump.
Your probably right if you own these old birds your gonna work on them and get dirty and i would bet most on this site have been there.