I need to replace the bearings and seal on the right rear axel of my JD 320D loader. I got the wheel off but how do I pull the axel shaft? Thanks
You have to remove the axle housing from the main case:
Thanks I'll pull the housing and see if I have more questions.
Been there, done that. There isn't enough clearance between the bottom brace and the upper frame to remove the axle housing properly, but, you CAN remove the front pin from the brace and using a bottle jack, push down on it and it will give just enough room to get the housing out. Not easy but do-able. Check your bearings while you are into it as the outer is greased and may be worn. There is a seal just inside from the grease zerk (ref#1). Is it actively leaking OIL out of the end? If not, and there is no bearing play, grease it good and go.
Yup - its leaking oil - so probably need seals and bearings on both ends minimum.
Which pin do I pull to allow the frame to be spread?
Remove the pin at the front of the top backhoe brace after taking the fender support bracket off. Put the jack between the lower frame an this brace link toward the loader tower and push up. It will, with a little force, give JUST enough room for the housing to come out. Unless, you want to take the backhoe off:crazy
Everything on the inboard end is probably okay, those outboard bearings are a pain to grease and unless you have the chart or a book, nobody will think to look for those lone zerks there. Check the brake pads while you're in there since you have to pull the axle housing anyway. Not something you want to do again anytime soon I would think
Any chance you can pull housing out the top after removing the floor of the cab?
OK - finally got the axle bolts off - required the hissing blue wrench. Does anyone have the dimensions and spec for these bolts - the parts catalog wants to use a 240 mm long M20 which aint long enough [looks to be more like a +/- 14" long 7/8ths high carbon bolt].
Nevermind - looking at the wrong catalog - I found the 08H4647 CAP SCREW 7/8" X 13-1/2" Thanks anyway.
OK - how exactly do I spread this thing open to pull the housing out? Thanks
In your picture, to the right end of the fender well is the fender support with 4 half inch bolts going in towards the tractor. Remove that panel and the forward inch and a half or so pin for the upper brace is behind it. Drive it inward. Remove the cast block above the axle. I uses a 12 ton bottle jack about half way forward from the axle to the aforementioned pin. Apply pressure and it will move JUST ENOUGH to then work the axle out just in front of the vertical support. Pull it out then tilt it down and it can roll out. I didn't say it will be easy, just possible. The only other option I saw was to remove the backhoe
Also put a jack under the tractor as it is resting on the backhoe support frame now.
OK - where would you put the jack? Thanks
For spreading, between the upper and lower brace support beams. For support, under the center of the differential housing.
How many footpounds on the axle end bolt? Thanks
I&T manual; check torque required to turn axle, new bearings should be 20-70 inch pounds, then set lock plate in place over bolt head. I just tightened it until it had a little resistance. Side note from experience; glue it in with grease as having to put the axle back where it came from, the lock plate could fall out of place. If I recall correctly, I had the axle inside the loader frame before I installed the sun gear and disc. Axle retaining bolts are torqued to 85 ft lbs or a good impact gun.
OK - got it. Thanks
All back together because of my buddies Urban & Max - and you guys. Thanks again for all the good advice. I will dig a hole and bury an enemy in your honor.
Post your address, we'll send you a couple for practice, postage due of course! :tong
How do you bleed the brakes on the 310D? I had nothing on the right pedal upon reassembly and its gotten worse - now I got nothing on either pedal. TIA