Huldtins 850 super fell head on a Timberjack 950 buncher

I am hoping that one of the forum members has mounted a Huldtins 850 superfell head on a Timberjack 950 buncher carrier. We have two 950's- one in semi retirement and one in active duty as our cut-down machine with a 24 in hotsaw. A number of years back we had some blowdown in the area and found a Cat 325 fb carrier with the Huldtins. It did what we wanted but the carrier was pretty tired and has long since travelled off to Fraley's. We kept the head though and I've been working on setting it up on an old Mar heel rack we also have kicking around the yard with the idea of being able to switch back and forth between the hotsaw and the felling head as conditions warrant. The rack we already modified with an old wrist from a hotsaw so it will pin to the 950 stick- I have used it with a grapple for units with a lot of oversize to help the clambunk with the butts. I have fabbed up the knuckle so the heel rack and the head mate and have now gotten to the plumbing and electrical stage. So, any help or advice would be appreciated. I am thinking that I will lay out what I am thinking for any interested reader to look at, but again, any advice, experience or ideas will be much appreciated. The Hultdins head needs 47, call it 50 gpm @ 4700 psi for the saw function. The 950 has 3 pumps, variable displacement, pressure compensated. The main has 146 gpm @ 5400, the saw pump is 30 gpm @ 4700 and the head function pump is 20 gpm @ 2700. My thought is that I will need to add a section to the main or carrier valvebody- currently 6 pilot activated sections in a 9 section main valve, and pull oil from the main pump for the saw/tilt function of the head. Huldtins used a 3 way rocker switch with a two way toggle on one joystick to run the saw valve and to activate a dump valve for the tilt during saw function, I am thinking to do the same, an electric over hydraulic valve to pull pilot pressure to activate the new valve section and an electric over hydraulic dump valve as well. There is room or height for adding a section under the engine compartment lid and if we retire the older 950 I have access to a complete valve body as well as tubes to plumb it up the boom and down the stick. One question I have is how to replace the tie bolts for the valve, Gr7 reddi rod? It looks like the plumbing modifications for the valvebody lines would be fairly minor, the tank line is a hardline and may have to be fabbed up. I have not been able to find anyone who can tell me it won't work, but no one knows if it will either! I thought to put the section either above the swing, third up from the bottom, or above the boom, fourth up from the bottom, don't know if it would make any difference or not, was wondering if any of the porting is different in the sections. I am willing to try it, but once committed the old 950 will be officially retired, would prefer to have a bit more confirmation of success before we go ahead on her. The saw would on pull 50 gpm, and in general would be used by itself, not like a hotsaw where I multifunction, so other function impact would be minimal. The other head functions I am thinking of running out of the top 3 sections of the main valve that use oil from the implement pump and are electric over hydraulic. They run the head side tilt, accumulator and top clamps now, the pump puts out 20 gpm @ 2700 psi. Using the existing joystick controls I would run the tilt circuit for head rotate and was thinking of running both clamp circuits together, through blocks on the heel rack,for the grapple function. Hultdins specs 37 gpm for the grapple, seems as though by combining flow I could get enough oil to make it fast enough. A little creative wiring with some weatherpac connectors would make it simple quick and easy to switch between heads too, an important concern. I would set up the lines at the end of the stick with threaded quick couplers so I would hope that a switch between heads would mean the two pins, connecting the lines, throwing a master switch for the joystick switch power and swapping the connectors for the clamp circuits. Well that is a long story but I hope it makes sense and someone either has done it or can see that it will, or won't , work and is willing to give me their two cents worth! Thanks in advance!