so, I kinked the end of the steel line in a NH 575E Backhoe. The lines are incredibly expensive from NH. It looks like the end hose is attached to is just soldered/sweated on. Can you buy just the end an resolder it on. I’ve plenty of length of steel line. If so, is there a certain solder to use? Thought about just heating up old end & removing & reusing. Thoughts?
Do you have a picture
Yes, I’ll get one up shortly just loaded some pics
Thats a flared end for Oring face seal. Depending what size/ pressure you're at you can use a Eaton flareless end.... or flare for JIC
How do I determine pressure? This is the line that runs the cylinder for the extenda hoe portion only. Are the original ends soldered on? You think a Hyd shop has those ends? If the end is available does it just sweat on like a typical plumbing joint? Napa shop in town is closed today.
Will a compression fitting work? I see some guys showing those as repairs. I didn’t know a compression fitting could with stand Hyd. Pressures
Do you have a photo of where that fitting hooks on to? What I see appears to be some sort of flange with the opposing side having an O ring for a seal.
We've had success replacing steel lines with hoses when in a pinch. Would that work?
Typ they are silver soldered on. Iv shortened tubes in the past. Its a very time comsumeing process because soder joints wont fill gaps. Must be very uniform And tight but not to tight. Someone makes a product that crimps on to the tube with the fitting on it...maybe a eton product?
I always replace damaged steel with a hose.
For the first one I had a pic of I cut the end off with about 4” of tube still attached. Cut long piece of tube & welded it back together, I only lost about 3” of tube overall. I was surprised how thick tube was and it mig welded easily. Rubber hose on ends were more than long enough to make up the difference.
The next one damaged is smaller & kinked right next to the flange. Can just those ends be bought? Do you silver solder just like sweating a plumbing joint? I’ve done plenty of those type of joints. I know cleanliness is paramount.
You should be able to heat it up and pull the flange and clean it up well and reset it with a good silver solder. Yes it's like sweating copper fittings, just requires a dull red heat and proper alloy and flux.
RZucker, do you know what kind of silver solder & flux is required? I’m guessing it is different than plumbing type solder & flux.
Been a few years, but the stuff I had was Harris/Welco brand. You want a fluid alloy that flows into the joint. Check with your local welding supplier.