After spending a fortune getting the bucket cylinders redone, I want to try and save money on the 4 in 1 bucket cylinders that are leaking out the end. I don't use the 4 in 1 too much but want to stop the external leaks. I found a used 48" Ridgid pipe wrench for $100 to get the gland nuts off. To get the rod bolt out, I was thinking of getting an impact socket and possibly using the big pipe wrench on the socket instead of having to also buy a big breaker bar. I don't want to put the pipe wrench on the bolt but am thinking an impact socket is heavier wall and softer so the pipe wrench might work on it. Has anyone ever tried a pipe wrench on an impact socket? I think I could put a decent snipe on the pipe wrench and not hurt it at all. I believe the bolt is about 800 ft./lbs.
While I haven't tried that on a rod nut quite that tight in the past I have tried it when I couldn't find a suitable box wrench for large bolt heads.... the problem I found with the pipe wrench was it seem to absorb the energy of the impact in how the lever tightening of a pipe wrench works... it helps if you can get some pre-tension on the impact side... anymore I just get some heavy plate and cut a nut holder out of it and I'm set
I have used a pipe wrench with a cheater bar on regular 3/4 drive sockets. If the rod has a bolt hit the head of it several times with a sledge hammer. If it has a nut have a helper hit the pipe wrench right on the back of the jaws. If red locktite was used before you, I guess heat is needed.
I think it's a bolt if it's anything like the other cylinders. I just thought a socket would be a perfect fit and a cheap socket would be easier than cutting a wrench out of steel. I could cut a wrench but I've got big azz pipe wrench now so thought I could take advantage of it.
Get some 1" or 1-1/2" flat bar stock about 4-6" wide. Anything SOLID like that, 3' long or whatever you can handle. Weld the socket to it. Use whatever means you have to lift on it or pull on it to apply torque. Backhoe, little crane, ratchet strap, come along etc. Or if all else fails get your BFH and whack the snot out of it Like so.....
if it's very tight, you will probably regret a cheap socket....
I'm not so sure the nuts or bolts or whatever they have on the end of the rod are that tight on those machines. Also 800 foot pounds isn't all that tight anyway. Impact sockets are usually thicker and harder than standard sockets. I don't know that the pipe wrench jaws will bite on the socket. In my experience getting the gland nut off the cylinder was always harder to work than the nut on the end of the rod.
I could certainly weld flat bar or a length of tubing to a socket and push on it with the skid steer or tractor loader. I won't be doing it till spring but will need to get it done.
It's not uncommon to heat the rod/piston bolt or nut to break The Locktite that is used during assembly. Same with gentle heating the gland to unscrew if of that type. Tom
Apparently if the rod has never been apart Cat didn't use Loctite but did use an anti-seize. Also everything I've read says impact sockets are softer so they will absorb the shock and not crack or shatter like a chrome socket would.
Are impact sockets harder or softer? I don't know. Definitely thicker AND stronger than regular sockets from the same maker. Hard to tell what's been apart sometimes, unless it's late model or has good original paint.
I wouldn't think 4 in 1 cylinders would get used as much as the bucket cylinders but I guess I'll find out when I try to take them apart.
Getting the head off is harder than the piston nut. Flat across the nut will be about the same size as the rod