Not sure where to post this so I put it here for visibility. I have a bobcat that has a stuck hydraulic filter... and I mean stuck! With a large wrench I was able to turn the filter but instead of coming off, the outer casing is spinning and the inner filter is stuck. I don’t want to do the screwdriver trick yet since there’s not much room around it... and I’m worried that will destroy the filter. Anybody ever had this happen? Any ideas? Edit: it’s a 2004 t180
You want the filter off to install a replacemnt. What difference does it make if you destroy it in the process..?
True... it’s just always a PITA doing it that way
I'd be going after it with a strap/chain wrench socket before punching any holes in it. Don't know if that one will continue to drain the tank when opened up, but that could be a real big mess to clean up if it still won't come loose after hammering a screwdriver in.
If the outside is turning and the inside isn’t then I can’t see a strap/chain wrench working.
Take the mount itself off. It’s easier when you can clamp the mount in a vise in the open to work on it. Probably end up having to split the can with some hammer and chisel work to get it off
Typical result of over-tighting the filter. Like JD655SC suggested take the mount off. You have no other options that won't result in a damaged base.
Yep, I like that option best. Will be removing mount and throwing in a vise.
If you can't stop the hydraulic oil while it's off you can use a shop vac to pull vacuum on the tank while you work on it. I can't stand when a filter gets over tightened and won't come off, so much for the "I've got a few minutes, let me change out that filter quick".....been there, done that
grab a wide cold chisel and hammer. You want to hit it right where the outer skin crimps to the base, at the top edge of the filter as it's pictured. Hit it and make nice little dent that you can get the chisel in, and angled to help turn it loose. Been there, done that, it always works.
Wonder if the gasket wasn't oiled?
Some dummy prolly tightened it until the filter base and the mount were metal on metal. As we all know a lot of those gaskets are very thin. The cold chisel trick does work, as long as a person does't get carried away and get into the mount.
Figured I’d post the conclusion... got it to spin off by setting a screw into the rim. Gasket looked pretty dry
Good solution!
Those filters with the round o-ring instead of the flat gasket are always a PITA in my experience.
I had an OEM Donaldson installed by a dealer that leaked all the oil out after about an hour of use. It was almost like the O-ring wasn't thick enough to properly seal. I put lots of oil on a new filter and got it snug with a filter wrench but didn't reef it as tight as it would go.
Most spin-on filters these days (like the Bobcat one in the photo above) have the recommended installation instructions right on the outside of the canister. The main problem is that no-one ever reads (or follows) them.......
For sure Nige! As we all know those filters feel like they are still loose after following the directions. I am guilty of turning them a little more. But not much.
I dunno. Most people I've come across are guilty of not applying the full 1/2 or 3/4 turn (or whatever the pictograph on the filter canister tells them to do) after the seal contacts the face of the housing.
I had a GM dealership change the oil in my car engine and a couple of days later I had a puddle of oil on the garage floor. Really loose filter.
I had an arguement with a coworker one day about this. They tried giving me crap for using a filter wrench to tighten the filter. Well I can't spin it the 3/4 turn by hand so what else does a guy do? Send it out loose? Funny thing was I was constantly tightening up that co-worker's filters. Truck would go out to work for the day and come back with half a gallon of oil pissed out all down the frame.
Straight from the horse's mouth - a Cat Service Mag from almost 20 years ago.............it seems we still haven't learned. Who remembers the good old 2P-4005 spin-on engine oil filter.? Proper installation of the 2P-4005 Engine Oil Filter Assembly is necessary to ensure proper functioning of the filter. If the filter is not tightened adequately, vibration that occurs during operation can loosen the filter. A loosened filter will allow engine oil to leak. Downtime is required for the correction of any leak. A leak that is not corrected in a timely manner or a major leak can result in significant damage from inadequate lubrication. Note: All types of spin-on filters depend on correct tightening in order to avoid subsequent loosening. Always follow the proper installation procedures that are illustrated on the filters. Use the following procedure to install the 2P-4005 Engine Oil Filter Assembly. 1. Clean the sealing surface of the mounting base. Ensure that all of the old filter gasket is removed. 2. Apply clean engine oil to the new filter gasket. 3. Install the filter. Tighten the filter until the filter gasket contacts the mounting base. Observe one of the index marks on the filter and tighten the filter for an additional one full turn (360 degrees). Note: The additional one full turn (360 degrees) is the minimum requirement for installation. The filter can be tightened beyond the minimum one full turn for a 1/8 turn (45 degrees) further. The filter will not be damaged by tightening for a total of 1 and 1/8 turns (405 degrees) after the filter gasket initially contacts the mounting base. A 185-3630 Strap Wrench As can be used to perform the tightening. Use the strap wrench near the filter's threaded end in order to reduce the possibility of damage to the threads on the filter and on the stud.
There are a lot of people that say to just tighten them by hand. I was lucky I didn't take out all the hydraulics on my skid steer. I was doing some work and got out to check something with the machine idling. I got back in and about 30 seconds later saw a big puddle of oil. I shut the machine off and had to use the Cat to pick it up to drag back where I could look at it. I thought it was a blown hose behind the filter because it was wet and the fitting had some rust on it. I took the hose off and replaced it but couldn't see an obvious leak. Then kind of by fluke I grabbed the filter and realized it wasn't tight enough. I put less than an hour on the machine after picking it up from the dealer to replace a drive motor. The idiots also didn't tighten the drive chain on the motor they replaced. I wouldn't have that shop tighten a lug nut! The guy that I booked the service with is now the parts manager and is a total idiot. Tells me about $500 labor to change the drive motor. Go to pick it up and the labor is $1300 and doesn't even bother to call and tell me it's almost triple! Fast forward a few years and orders me an oil pressure sender. I go to pick it up a few days later and it's the wrong one. The parts guy I'm talking with grabs a different parts book that shows 2 different senders, one with a screw terminal and one with a spade terminal. I needed the screw terminal and they had one in stock! Even better it was around $30 and the spade terminal one was close to $60! What ticked me off was the parts manager not even asking for a serial number or checking the description of the sender.
ive notice that the auto mechanics often just barely spin the filter on and don’t get it tight at all Personally my trick for a smaller size spin on filter is to get a piece of Emory cloth or sandpaper and use it to tighten by hand. Comes off without the drama but stays on without an issue. for the big filters I gently snug with a filter wrench.