I looked at buying a plug kit, but they seem to be pretty pricey considering what they are and how infrequently I would need to use them. Is there a DIY solution to plugging an open hydraulic hose during maintenance of a hydraulic component?
You don’t need name brand plugs/caps. Cheap Chicom plugs are just fine and way better than duct tape or old corks. Buy them separately to get only what you need. Regardless, plugs are way cheaper than the components they are protecting.
But just make sure to remove them from all the ports in pumps, valves, etc, etc, before reconnecting. Caused many a headache trying to diagnose, especially when the plug gets pushed half way up a hose.
Just to clarify, I would only recommend the metal screw on plugs/caps not the plastic things for the exact reason mentioned above. With a screw on cap there is no chance of leaving it on unless you forget to hook something up.
My bad. I thought you were referring to plastic ones.
Is it safe to assume that all threaded hydraulic fittings are NPT (Cat 246)?
Your not going to find any npt on a cat mostly flat face oring https://www.amazon.com/s?k=flat+face+plug+kit plastic plugs work fine if you take them out so does tape and plastic baggies and zip ties on a hose depends weather you need to hold oil in or just keep dirt out and drips contained
Thank you...I'll check that out.
I'm a DIY working on only my machines. I highly recommend you buy a metal ORFS kit of plugs and caps on Ebay or such. Quality is minimal as is the cost. Second, is buy a kit of O-rings for the ORFS fittings instead of buying the O-rings one at a time. Plus you have a ready replacement if you have a leak or open a fitting that's been in place for a decade. Having the metal set also allows you to keep using the machine, minus the function capped off. A baggy and rubber band can't do that.
I'll look at the metal plugs and caps on eBay and see what's reasonably priced. I guess my issue now is knowing what sizes. My machine is out on my land over an hour a way and my HOA where I live now has already given me a warning about parking it on my driveway before I took it out there. So I'm stuck doing all of my repairs on-site and I want to make sure when I get out there to work on it, I have the right tools. I've looked around the operator's manual and the Cat Parts website and I can't find any information as to what size any of the fittings are. Specifically, I'm going to be replacing a joystick (RH) and it looks to have six lines running to it that I will have to disconnect. I'm guessing they're 1/2" (+/- 1/8"), but that's a wide range and needing six of them would likely meaning buying multiple kits. Anyone know the size of these specific lines (Cat 246 | s/n 5SZ078xx)? Assuming that is known, any other sizes that are common and should be purchased now?
I'm in the same situation with my machine, an hour away. My guy at the hose shop I use was very understanding. He got me a bag full of different sizes that work on my machine, metal caps and plugs, male and female. Most shops have them on stock and would know what will fit. They weren't all that expensive and it's great to have them handy for the repairs. Keeps oil from leaking. I picked up a small plastic ammo can to keep them in.
That’s not a bad idea. I might try to go by the local hose shop and see what they can do for me.
I find this sort very useful, fits just about everything. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/1640815646...lrLaPU5Rt_q8lMjhKp8xkrzKXXWkQdV4aApdDEALw_wcB
Those are what I was originally considering since they are a one-size-fits-all option. But it sounded like from the initial responses to my post, that they aren't recommended. And at that price, I think I will first look at the metal screw-in plugs/caps that would specifically fit my needs, as they actually might be less expensive in the end.
I bought some caps a long time ago and they are just toooo expensive. Since then I have been salvaging hose ends. I burn the hose and then cut the skirt off of the fitting and weld it (the fitting) shut. I have a nice assortment of them now.
I removed and repaired my LH joystick on my 2008 CAT 242B. I did not use plugs ... and it was a bit of a messy job. I don't know the sizes of the lines, but 5 of them were the same size and they did not leak oil. The 1 that was the larger size, leaked oil continuously and had to be be plugged and taped. See the attached photos to give you an idea what you are up against. A few tips. Mark each line and take pictures before you disassemble. Keep track of the order of disassembly and reassemble in the reverse order, as there is limited wrench room and it is not fun reassembling it twice (don't ask how I found this out). I used a clamp on the joy stick body as a backup for wrenching (see photo). Not a bad job, but tight quarters ... I had my cab tilted back for this which gave better access.
A few more photos:
Who says caps and plugs are expensive?
The biggest advantage to having steel caps and plugs... If you understand how your machine works, you can disable a failed circuit safely and limp the machine to a more convenient location for repair. Mind you, not every failure can be plugged off (like a pump output hose) and allow the machine to run, but many can, such as a bucket cylinder or arm cylinder circuit.
You found a good deal there. Depends where you buy them I guess. The first ones I purchased were from a Parker dealer. I needed them that day. Never again there tho. I should mention that I don't burn an entire hose when I salvage the ends. I just put a torch on the fitting skirt until it releases the hose.
A recommendation-get a cheap multi colored zip tie kit at harbor freight and mark all your lines and fittings. Take pictures too as that's cheap insurance on reassembly. Go to a hose shop and get the plugs and caps you need . When you put the cap on the fitting on the joy stick a zip tie will fit above the cap and stay put. You don't want crossed lines. You don't need that headache. You can stay out of a bear trap a lot easier than you can get out of one
I still on occasion use plasticaps that I saved off hose ends and new fittings and have for years, where as noted above have incidentally installed a hose with one still in place a time or three. I opt to use home made or bought steel caps as can when do this type work.
Pictures are very helpful, thank you.
I picked up some metal ORFS plugs and plastic caps from a local hose and fitting supplier. The cost of all the plugs and caps in the photos (CAN$17) was about the same price one CAT ORFS plug and O ring.
I use the metal caps and plugs to not only seal off, but also mark the proper location...I do this by punching a number or letter into a matching cap and plug...So, If I remove a hose from the valve bank, I put a cap numbered1 on the bank, and a plug numbered 1 on the end of the hose. Repeat for each hose, and you know exactly where the hoses go when putting it back together. Yes, this can get expensive, but to me it makes the job easier and not so messy. And, as pointed out, you will never leave anything in the system. I have a set for JIC and another for the Flat Face O-Ring. I store them cap and matching number/letter plug together. BTW...If you do not have number/letter punches you can punch mark them with varying numbers of dots. Interesting fact...many years ago my employer made us strip and cut up every manlift (aerial lift for electric company). When pulling the hoses, they made us cap and plug everything so oil would not leak. Then we threw them in the trash, and they were parker$$ brand...lotta hoses on a manlift!
Blame lawyers and the legal system. Potential liability for any "deep pocket" company with any connection to the machine is a target for an injury action. When my company scraped some machines, I had to personally observe their destruction (fun watching a shear cut them up) and document it. Same for the EPA and oil spill liability. (Wish, I was at the scrap yard when those hoses came in)