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Hydraulic pump remain recommendations

Brian D · 2019-03-10 08:58

Just figured out JD 690D excavator I recently bought has a bad hydraulic pump. I had no stand by pressure and found brass shavings and flakes that came out of the case drain. I'm looking for recommendation of a good rebuilder to rebuild or to exchange my pump. So far I've had a quote of $6,000-$8,500 these are ballpark estimates because I have a Linde pump that has JD #AT184448 so they say they have to have the pump to know what Linde # the pump is. Also a big concern is cleaning valves, drive motors and flushing lines. What is the best and most effective way to do this? Thanks for any advice, Brian

Replies7
  1. #1Vetech632019-03-10 11:40

    Check with Duane at Flint Hydraulics in Memphis. 901-794-4884 or www.flinyhyd.com It will be impossible to clear all the contaminants without a complete teardown and cleaning of every hose, valve, and component. The most important part of cleaning is the hydraulic tank and the suction hoses. Be sure and replace ALL your hydraulic filters including the pilot and in-tank return filters. a lot of contaminants on the pressure side of the system will find their way to the return filters, but without cleaning those pressurized components, you may end up with valve spools hanging open......or relief valves that get stuck open. It really depends on how much you want to spend, and how lucky you feel if you decide to gamble.

  2. #2partsandservice2019-03-10 12:24

    Often the amount of contamination that entered the system and where can be determined upon pump disassembly. Often if contamination was introduced into the pressure side you can tell by looking for damage where the valve plate and cylinder block meet. Brass shavings usually come from the piston shoes and often exit in the case drain and if so concentrate on Vetect63's comment on tank and suction.

  3. #3John C.2019-03-11 11:16

    Something of a red flag when a "rebuilder" has to have the pump in hand in order to identify it. What I've seen in the past is said rebuilder then holds pump hostage when they require a huge payment for a pump they "rebuilt" with aftermarket parts and the questionable knowledge of service personal who had never had one apart before.

  4. #4Phantom9702019-03-12 02:58

    Just been thru this scenario Brian. 17Tonne Kobelco Kobelco Kawasaki pump new $18k New Kawasaki pump from industrial hyd shop $10k Reman pump $13k Second hand as is where is $8k Mine was instant total failure of pump on relief so most of the crap went straight back to tank bottom. Plenty went to return filter chamber I had big chunks of metal, aluminium, brass etc Sounds like yours is maybe long hrs of just wear and tear to a point of filings so it's probably been going around the system for a while? As already quoted, tank out and upside down is a priority. Oil cooler is another nasty spot. Basically I left the cooler return hose off at the tank and ran the machine till the oil cleared. Oil straight onto the ground. Slew motor, take a line off at the motor and it should flow oil out without slew function being activated. Then slew left/right hoses off and operate each lever. Track motors, I didn't travel far on failure. I undid hoses down there and the oil was clean. All Rams, didn't bother with them as crap can go in and out of them with out much hassle. Valve body. They are big spools even on smaller machines so I wouldn't be to worried about them. Stuff will flow thru there and return to tank filter eventually. The valve stack is the absolute last thing you want to muck with as it's such a big job, and I guarantee it will leak afterwards unless you give it a complete $$$$ overhaul. Don't know much about your JD digger but from my exp with a few older brands they can circulate the filings with out much hassle and the filter will do its job. I went with the second hand pump only because I had no $$$$. I should have went with the new $10k option but was worried about damage to a brand new pump with tighter tolerances. Changed filter once so far after first 50 hrs. Half a Teaspoon of stuff in there. About 3-400 hrs now, no problems. I will do filter again any day now. Second hand pump going fine. No bits of crap have entered any pressure senders/switches or solenoids yet. That was my biggest concern. The old 310H hitachi I also have is forever getting bits of crap in the auto rev senders on the valve stack. It's like yours, just totally wore out pumps been sending filings around the system. No flush of anything. Just letting the filter do its thing. Anyway, that's just my two bobs worth. Sorry for long post.......... Ps: put a clean white or black rag over The ends of your pipes when flushing and then with a torch you can see when the filings stop or become minimal.

  5. #5TVA2019-03-12 08:37

    “put a clean white or black rag over The ends of your pipes when flushing and then with a torch you can see when the filings stop or become minimal.” Just to make things clear: for the Brits, Aussies and South Africans a “torch” is a flashlight!!! There’s no reason to start fire on account of this misunderstanding!!!

  6. #6Nige2019-03-12 13:49

    Don't get me started on the difference between a windscreen and a windshield.........

  7. #7Coy Lancaster2019-03-12 19:50

    Did you find someone to send pump to? If not Flynt Hydrostatics is who I use. They are nation wide I use the one in Memphis, TN, ph# (901)238-0155. Very reputable and stands behind their work.