We've got a champion 740A (1989) with about 5000 hrs. Good machine. It's got a glinch in the turn table lever. The lever works, but it's not right. When you push the lever forward it pushes hard and doesn't really "feel" like it fully connects although the table turns like it's supposed to. When you pull the lever back the table turns the opposite direction as it's supposed to, but when you release it, the lever doesn't return to it's "home" position. You have to manually shove it back to center. I've not worked on this system, but I think the lever moves a cable which operates a hydraulic valve in the bank of valves in front of the cab. Any suggestions on where I should look first to solve this issue? Thanks for the help. S
Are the cables greaseable, some are and some are not. Disconnect the cable and see how hard it moves, if it is stiff and there are no grease fittings at both ends, try lubing it with a good spray lube and work the cable as you do. If the cable is free then you probably have a broken spring on the end of the spool. Post a picture of the valve bank and maybe we can give you some hints on spring replacement although it is usually pretty straight forward. If none of the above you may have a scored spool and that requires a little more getting into it.
BillG beat me to the punch, I was just about to post, but I agree with everything he says. We have a 720A with cables between the lever and the control valve, which is mounted on the main frame ahead of the cab. The moisture gets into the cables and they go rusty and become hard to operate. If your 740A has a similar setup, I would look at lubricating the cable, try and get some WD40 or something similar in there to loosen the cable up and make it slide. If it is still tight after that, then the problem may be in the control valve itself. RnR.
Thanks BillG and Rock. I'll try that. I'll try what you've suggested and I'll take a photo of the valve bank. I really appreciate it! S
photos of valve bank on Champion 740A BillG, I'm trying to post a couple of photos of the valve bank. Maybe you can give me some tips on spring replacement. I'll try this, not sure how to post photos yet. sstouder
That's the same setup as our 720A, sstouder. I would sart with the cable and if that doesn't fix the problem, I am sure someone here can help you with the control valve. If our grader stands outside in the weather for a while, the cables will go stiff. I spray them quite often with a penetrant hoping that some will work it's way in and lubricate them. RnR.
I agree with RnR, it looks like those cables need some tlc. It appears they haven't been apart and checked.
Check the cables first then the valve itself. It could be just a matter of a piece of rubber that has broken loose from inside one of the hoses and gotten into the valve. Those cables were a dum idea. They sure don't have the feel of direct connection with rods. New ideas aren't always better, just more trouble.
Thanks guys. I tried to get the cable off the appropriate control valve yesterday and it's so rusted up I ran into some real trouble just getting the cable unhooked from the valve. The cable end is threaded into the sheath/cover (I'm not sure of the appropriate term), which is held unto the valve body by a collar with two bolts. I got the bolts and collar loose and I loosened the lock nut, but I can't get the sheath to move on the threads of the cable enough to expose the yoke and pin to disconnect the cable. I soaked it with penetrating oil last night and I'm going to try it again this morning. I may need to heat the sheath, but I'm not too eager to do that as it's close to the main valve with a lot of rubber o-rings, etc. sstouder
I wanted to thank you all for your help. It "was" the cable. It was rusted and sticky. I managed to spray half a can of penetrating fluid down it's thoat and it loosen right up. Works fine!
No worries, I'm pleased it was that simple. RnR.
Cables Smables Just my observation but after many problems with that particular setup I have found that the caps on the other end ot the valve spool must be installed properly or they will not allow fluid {water and or oil} to drain and can cause cable or ball joint breakage. They are to be installed with the notch down to allow any of the aforementioned fluids to leak out. Cables arent bad to change but be sure to tie a rope or wire to the end to get the cable to feed back in the proper location. Dont ask me how I know this