I have looked for information about removing and replacing the spool valve orings on the backhoe controls on my 510 john deere without luck. it is a old machine but I am hoping the process probably does not change much from model to model and someone who has done this can help me out. from the parts diagram it looks like the orings go on the spool rather than in the bore? the check valve is no longer available ,same thing with spool. john does have the orings. I guess I will just clean everything and replace just the orings. ANY TIPS? unclehuck
Not sure if this is any help.... I am doing this ( having it done) on my 310b ( 9450 hoe).. There are rings in the bore, and in each spool. Spools are different ( boom, swing etc.) the jdparts diagrams show them each with a part # list. My guy did not know of the ones in the spools, and after the re-mount we were pulling the valve block off again due to continued leakage. Also, o-rings between each valve. I did not do the work though I would of liked to hang out while it was being done. Can't help with disassembly info....
What kind of problem are you trying to fix? The o rings at the each end of the spool can be replaced without removing the spool, and that's the way I'd do it, unless you have reason to take the whole thing out and apart.
Like Delmer said taking the spool apart is not what you want to do unless necessary. I've replaced the 0 rings on a no. of spools but only pulled the spool.
The o-rings in the spools seal the end attachments, like the clevis, they thread into the spool itself on each end. If they haven't loosened up it's not likely they need replacing. I don't recall for sure on the 510 if you can change the outer end o-rings by pulling the covers off, or if you have to pull the spool and fish the old o-rings out of a groove in the valve section body. Either way it's not a big job.
the boom and bucket valves are leaking out the top when you use the controls. there is no leakage between the valve bodies. the picture of the parts only shows one groove in middle of spool. there are 4 orings. one oring in spool the other 3 in bore. It seems I would just drop the spool enough to replace the upper oring in bore? thanks for your help unclehuck
Yes, something like that. Lantraxco has probably done it on a 510, I haven't, only another Deere.
I went back to the john deere cross section for the two different numbers on the orings and figured out from the sizes that there are three for the bore and one on spool based on the od of spool and id of rings. so the spool has to come out. I am guessing out the bottom? unclehuck
My leak was also out of the top end ( clevis end). The bore O-rings were replaced.. as were the ones between sections. My thought was to change out them all being they were most likely 30+ yrs old. But we did not change out those rings in the spool.( did not know of them..). Pulled the boot to get a look and you could see the weep out of the end attachment joint Now that clevis end attachment needs to be threaded off to get at that ring... do you have to block the spool from turning somehow to back that off?... when you leave the spool in the bore? I know I'm talking 'bout another JD machine... but thought there might be "deere" similarities.
I haven't started on mine yet. it may be awhile as I have some other projects. a quick look at the clevis end , it looks smaller in diameter , so it may not have to be unthreaded. usually a pair of vice grips with some thick leather to keep the it from damaging the spool. if its out some brass jaws in vice may work.. My spools have tiny rust pockets which if the spool drops down far enough in operation, no new orings will fix a leak like that. I wonder if anyone here has ever brazed a spool with any success. as they are not available from JD. a warped spool would be a nightmare. my plan is to drop it down enough to measure how far down the bore oring is and determine if the rust pockets in spool are causing the leak.if that is the case I have to find a fix that does not involve brazing, as I think the spool would warp.
I would think JB weld would work on a spool provided it was thoroughly cleaned before application then sanded smooth. A friend of mine used it on the inside of a hydraulic cylinder years ago and it did the job.
I hate JB weld, but generally yes in low pressure sealing like this epoxy in some form has been known to work. The "proper" way to do it if the spools are rough would be to have a repair shop grind/chrome/regrind the spools and then hone the valve bores to accept the now slightly oversize spools. Makes them better than new, but at a price.
yikes! has anyone done a spool on a lathe out of stainless?
Stainless is too soft. Also most spools are case-hardened then centreless ground to finished size. Without that hard surface it wouldn't last 5 minutes IMHO.
I would just clean them up put in some new 0 rings and see what happens . If it does let us know and we'll all be the wiser. I cleaned up the break cylinders on an old dump truck that had rust pits stuck in new cups ant they never leaked again. Some times you just have to wing it.