2005 Hyundai Robex 160LC-7 Vin N50110024 6 cyclinder Mitsubishi Denso Injection Pump 32B65-04220 My manual and what I’m seeing is different!! Manual shows a gear, nut and keyway. Picture is what I see and I’m unsure how to remove. There is a gear behind that looks straight cut and has a 5 on two teeth in a row for timing that I can see. I have poor idle and the rpm’s vary and have a hard time staying put not moving any levers. When operating machine rpm’s will fall 400rpms or more then they ever have before and sometimes when you stop operating machine before it goes to low idle rpm’s will rev higher then they should (over reving). Have replaced all fuel lines and gaskets, filter, screen in banjo bolt, lift pump, and all 6 injectors. There is no electronics on fuel rail so no pressure sensor. Throttle control replaced in Cab and throttle cable and servo and even tried the old one again. Injection Pump doesn’t move from closed to open with same amount of force about… seems to be a slightly stiffer spot when pushing it open at maybe the half way point like it’s sticking a little. Even hooked up an electric fuel pump to see if there would be any difference but it made zero difference. Need to remove injection pump to have it rebuilt but I”m stumped on removal right now.
That hunk of metal is the automatic advance mechanism and it stays on the pump.. Have a look around and see if u can see some bolts that allows for it to go with the pump..
I got injection gear timed and got everything disconnected and all the bolts out have managed to get it out about a 1/4” but it’s slow going sprayed it down to soak and will try it again in the am it’s really stuck in the plate that it mounts too
They normally have a bracket towards the middle of the pump that supports it on the bottom.. don’t forget about that.. Good luck
S6S-DT...install video
Thanks everyone. Had no problem removing it this am. When turning it over by hand only fuel 100% of time at 2 injector lines and 90% at a third and maybe 75% at a 4th line. 2 zero fuel. When I had it idling a week ago and using a temperature gun on the exhaust manifold the cylinders with fuel showed good temps. Less fuel less temp and the two without much fuel the temps were way down. After pump is rebuilt and installed I will post back. Cheers
By chance did you check the overflow banjo bolt spring.?? It sounds as if the spring was broken and allowing fuel to return to the tank, instead of filling the fuel gallery and feeding all the cylinders..
The second day of the machine acting up and rpms not right it quit and wouldn’t start again. Discovered the ball was stuck and zero fuel going back to the tank. The throttle lever isn’t operating as it should and is getting worst as in a very stiff spot followed by a second one not quite as bad. 11600hrs
Those throttles r very stiff to begin with.. u couldn’t hold one at full travel..
Pump was rebuilt it was completely worn out causing my issues. Injectors weren’t flowing properly either and 3 needed to tips. Pushing the throttle lever open on the new pump is nice smooth and consistent. As I had stated before it had a stiff spot and then a second one which wasn’t normal. Hind sight being 20-20 this pump could have used a rebuild many hrs ago.