Machine: Hyundai excavator model ROBEX210LC-9 Serial Number: HHIHQ601VC0001242 OK, anyone want to take a stab at explaining how the stick and regenerating valve play together? Our service mgr tells me that the regenerator could be at fault through a broken spring on this one. The problem is with the stick control of the arm/dipper. Normally, the joystick starts doing its thing as soon as it moves off center and you get fine control and more/faster movement as you push or pull the stick. This example differs in that you get nothing from the stick until you are almost out of travel and maybe the last inch or so everything comes alive suddenly and without much fine control. If you sneak up on it you can get some fine control, but it's very touchy. On the stick itself, I can feel some change in the physical resistance once the point is reached where things begin to move, so I guess it could be that. I haven't had time to tear into it. As usual, around 3:30 I get called off everything else and am told they need this excavator out on the job Monday. It has a plethora of other issues varying from minor annoyances to safety issues. For instance, the control lever that you raise after you're seated and ready to do some work is defeated so the machine is fully live if the engine is running. I discovered this after dropping the lever and climbing down. I hit the swing stick and away we go. Glad I had a grip on the grab bar. Lots of other stuff, but mainly the operation of the controls is my concern. So with all of that said, where does the regenereator valve fit into this? If the spring inside were broken, would it act like this? Where is it located and is there a way to test it? If I can locate it, can I safely remove it and see if there is simply debris causing problems (or broken spring)? I might add at this point that there was a hose blown and replaced, and that's when this all started. Being this came to me so late, I could not get the guys to show me what they had done when they replaced the hose. Or there could be some malfunction that caused the burst hose for all I know. As usual, I'm long on problems, short on information. Now the joystick. I have not had time to get into that and do any testing. Since I feel some abnormal sensations when I move it to the point it actually does something, I could be convinced that is where the trouble lies. Just how to determine whether it is faulty I'm not sure. I have no specs, but I would assume this is a resistive component and a simple ohm sweep would show a jump at the point of travel where everything starts to work. Half the stuff in the cab has been taken apart and less that that has had screws put back in, so there are a lot of loose panels. So ultimately my question comes down to how to tell which of the two most likely causes is really at fault here. I'm all ears. Any help greatly appreciated. A hydraulic schematic would be helpful. R values for the joystick if anyone has them, although I'm really looking for a worn spot on the potentiometer, so a rapid change is what will tip me off there. But it would be nice to know. Or if it is the same for both sticks I can just do some comparison.
I suspect that it's the joystick. What you are calling the regeneration valve I believe is also known as the anti cavitation valve. That valve takes the oil that is being displaced in the cylinder. And moves it to the other side of the cylinder rather then sending it back to the tank. I would tee a gauge into the pilot line controlling the spool for that function. And then operate as you described and watch your pressure. If you don't see any pressure until you get movement and it is full pilot pressure (400-500psi). Then the joystick is bad.
Well, I got the name from our main truck service guy. He did heavy equip in the mil, and worked for Case a long time. Seems to know quite a bit. Your description of the function meshes with his though, so I believe we're talking about the same valve. Sounds like a solid test. I might get that done before they haul it out Monday. They are determined to use it. I don't understand, as we have others that are in fine shape. But that's not my call. They want this one. I have an assortment of gauges and tees just for tests like that, so maybe I'll get it done. Not that I could get parts Monday though. I was just looking at a dealer locator and the nearest is in Shreveport, but they do compact excavators only, and then up in your neighborhood on Ledbetter. Well, first things first...find the problem. Thanks Paul
Talked them into sending the SK210 Kobelco out on this job. It's close, and only a day. The Hyundai will stay in the yard where I can work on it.
Glad to hear that. Doesn't make sense to make things more stressful then what it is.
Komatsu had problems on what they also call re-generation valves for the stick cylinder on their PC200-6 models. The same symptoms as you describe. I don't recall if there ever was a fix other than the next serial number break did not have the problem anymore. It wasn't the pilot control as the valve is supposed to open and close based on differential pressures. What was actually happening is the valve would be stuck closed and not open until there was significant down pressure on the stick. It would then pop open with a bang that would send vibrations all through the machine. The valve itself was in the main control valve and I had several of them out and never really figured a work around. I can't say this is the same thing, but it sure sounds eerily similar.
John, it certainly does sound similar. Of course, me moving things around with no weight in the bucket may make the problem less pronounced or make it so that if I am very gentle with the control I can get it to move in a somewhat normal speed profile, but the fact that I can move the joystick 3/4 of the travel before I get anything probably wouldn't change. But I could see the sudden change from holding to just dropping to the ground being exacerbated by having a load. The guy that had been using it in the mulch yard was trying to load grinders with it and said it just couldn't be controlled safely and would just beat the grinders to death. If this valve is difficult to locate, I don't suppose anyone has a layout/illustration of where this valve is? i could at least pull it and maybe see if there is anything broken or trash in it. I can follow the cylinder lines and see where they land and go from there I suppose. I'll have some time now at least. Maye see if i can locate a service manual. Figure I'll need it for some of the other things I need to fix.
The valve on the Komatsu was opposite of the tubes that go to the boom and in line with the piston side of the arm cylinder as I recall. A manual would give you a better idea of location I'm sure.
I'll check on a manual. It's a pity that we have no dealer here. I'm sure I could get a screenshot of the layout. I'll just follow the lines and see if it is obvious. Sometimes the simplest way is the best. I'm told this didn't start until a hose failed, but I don't know which one yet. Hard to make a connection with a blown hose. Could be a coincidence I suppose, but I'm always suspicious. That may bear some investigation too. Thanks John
Ack....confusing. Have not been able to trace that line yet. Goes dark and tight from inside the cab. I need a helper to watch which lines move when I pull them or something. As far as locating the valve, whether is is a regenerating or anti-cavitation valve, I can't tell which one it is. I tried to take some pics today but the sun was wrong and the pics worthless. Just going to have to get a service manual. Might be worth it anyway if the Hyundai ROBEX 160 we have is enough like it. It's s rust bucket, but a customer wants an ugly but functional digger. I have the ugly covered. It either came from a salt mine, working the coast, or a fertilizer plant. Someone built a cage around the cab out of 4 x 4 tubing...I think that's what's holding it together. Several pads are missing from one track, muffler just laying on top. I don't even want to get started on it. I'll say the cab is cleaner than the one I am working on though. OK, since I'm checking the pilot pressure as part of this, it doesn't matter if I check it at the joystick does it? I can't envision any component between that and the valve. I gathered the stuff today to get that done. Was a hectic day. And I suppose I could swap the hoses around and see if the change affects the symptoms? The L-R stick moves are smooth and normal. There is a bit of oil seepage on top of the joystick anyway, so I suspect even if it isn't the function problem, it has sealing issues and I'll have to work it over. After I test it tomorrow I may just pull it and see about that. And surprise surprise, we bought a fire damaged Vermeer HG6000 to try and salvage. Looks like 150k worth of work, but it's a 400k machine and we got it right, so we'll see .Long term project.
The pilot pressure should remain steady throughout the stroke of your joystick at the inlet. Fine movement is just a small increment of the pilot oil moving the main control spool slightly. The more you increase the stroke of the joystick, the more oil you are supplying for the main control spool to overcome the centering springs...allowing more flow for faster movement. It would be nice to use 2 gauges, one at the inlet for your supply pressure and one at the pilot line at your control spool cap. That way you can see if there is any pressure at the cap when you move the joystick and there isnt any movement. It should help you narrow the choices of where to go from there.
Well, I understand in principle what I am looking for, pressurewise, it’s just frustrating not knowing which valve on the valve body corresponds to the one I’m targeting on the joystick. Maybe I’ll get lucky and find a problem with the joystick. I have to say though, someone else has already been in there working in the joystick. There are crimp connectors that are non-factory in place, screws missing, etc. and paint pen hose numbers. Someone has already had this joystick out. Doesn’t mean they fixed it though. I’m probably chasing my tail. But if it’s possible to re-seal it I think I should. Oil leaks rarely cure themselves. So I’m going to end up finding the correct control valve and that anti-cavitation valve/regeneration valve one way or the other. Not been able to find a manual yet.
Follow the lines from the cylinder back to the main control valve. Not familiar with your machine but a lot of excavators have a manifold where all of the pilot lines go to from the cab. I have had luck with calling 4seasons in Dallas and they gave me access to their online manuals. It's been a long time since I have done that. And I don't know for sure if they will do it again.
I’ve done that, and I feel like I’m guessing that the externally mounted solenoids are the pilot operated valves, but there is no hose connection directly to them, only to various locations on the main body. Nothing lined up well. I’ll try to get a pic. I’ll put orange tape on the two cylinder lines.
Ok. Cylinder lines. Light is still wrong. Shop is full so I’m having to do this outside.
I just circled these as a example. Without physically being there I couldn't tell you which spool is what. Your cylinder lines will be on the same side of the main control valve. One would be near the top and the other directly below that. Again just a example, but that's the line I have a arrow drawn. What I have circled is your pilot line. One on top the other directly below. That will come from the joystick. The one on top is one direction and the one below is the other direction. By the way fun fact. Your main control valve is two halves. The spools travel up and down. One half of the main control valve is supplied oil from one pump. And the other half is supplied oil from the other pump. Pilot pressure is from yet another pump usually mounted separate from the other pumps.
OK...tee’d into the pilot line at the joystick, I have no pressure until I reach about 75% of stick travel. Then the pressure jumps to between 3 and 400 psi. So is this telling me the valve in the joystick is not flowing anything until then, or something different?
i understand Paul. Remote diagnosis is difficult. But if it turns out it’s the valve in the joystick then it isn’t as important that I know about the main body, aside for just me knowing, which is important to me. It’s a little hard for me to visualize what in the stick valve arrangement could be wrong that would cause this. But if I am able to determine where that whatever we’re going to call it valve is, then I can break that down and probably find the problem. I just want to say for the record that you guys are keeping me from a lot of unnecessary floundering around. I would eventually figure this out, even if I bought a manual but you all are providing me with a great deal of help and I thank you.
Sounds like you have found the problem. You should see pressure as soon as you start moving the stick. There may be a screen on the supply line on the joystick. I would remove that line to be sure that nothing is plugging it up. I doubt that it is since only one function is effected on that joystick.
I just wish they would make it a little complicated to add interest
Since you are good with electrical then troubleshooting hydraulics will come naturally to you. They behave in the same ways. Where you have diodes you have check valves. Where you have resistors you get orfices. Both the path of electricity and hydraulics travel to the path of least resistance.
Ok. That is true. That function is the only one affected. And since it’s obviously been off before, someone in another life probably found the same thing. And since (at least I was told), this was running fine recently, perhaps it is something basic. I’ll pull the JS body and go through it, especially since it leaks a bit, and see what happens. It would appear to me that if a constant supply (I presume it is) is in the pilot feed to the joystick, and this is the only affected function, it would be where the fault lies. I suppose for chuckles, I could move it to the other valve and compare it. But I think I won’t. It needs seals so off she comes.
Yes they are very much the same. Pressure is voltage, flow is current valves are switches and so on. It’s just the physical differences and my lack of time on task that hurts me. But that will go away with time...and help from you guys. Ok, I’ll report back once I have it all scattered out and let you know what I find. Time to make a little mess. I have service caps for all this at least. Thanks again...I’ll be back.
The pilot control valves are just variable pressure valves. On all the machines that used something like that, I've been able to remove the problem poppet and reseal. Sounds kind of like a broken or weak spring. I have not found that anyone makes a repair kit for those valves either. Generally you have to order individual parts. The leakage also might be a give away that someone was in there prior and put things together out of order. One other thing to keep in mind is that Hyundai is for the most part a cheap copycat so the materials and tolerances in that valve might be a little suspect. Sometimes when things leak, it might be a little more of a problem than just a seal or O ring.
Had the exact same thing happen on A Cat 336F, brand new.
John, I was afraid someone would make that sort of comment. I haven't started looking for any kits yet. Just about the time I was cleaning up and getting the truck loaded, I got a call to drive to up near Texarkana. We had sold a trommel and they picked it up today and at a truck stop up there the driver did a walk-around and felt like the brakes were overheating. It's not hill country, so the truck shop sent up a couple of guys and I was asked to follow along. We all were having deja-vu from last summer when we roasted 5 of 6 wheel bearings and hubs on a grinder bound for Georgia. Turns out it just needed the brakes adjusted back a little. No bearing damage or anything serious this time. I was useless, but ended up driving about 200 miles instead of getting any work done. Hopefully this machine will make it to NY state without further issue. I'd hate to think that poor QC was the root cause of failure on this joystick valve. Coming from a machine shop background, particularly with quite a few of those years in QC/QA, that hurts, but I know it happens. But the machinist in me says if they can make it, I can fix it. Just have to understand how it works. This is a simple device, so as long as I can locate the repair parts, even split up, I'll get that leak stopped and figure out some cure of it's an oddball problem. If anyone has parts suggestions, I'm open to hearing about them. Thanks all!
If you dont have the joystick out already you could move your gauge to a pilot hose known to be functioning properly. This would give you insight on how it is supposed to be pressure wise. You should be able to vary the pressure at the start of the joystick stroke to the end of the stroke. Since you only have the problem in one function it would be wise to do so just for elimination purposes. You should see a cracking pressure at the start and an even increase to max pilot pressure as you move the joystick to full stroke.....and you should be able to hold any pressure within that range. Its more than likely the joystick plunger for that function since you had no pressure build up at the start of your stroke. I just like to eliminate everything before I start looking for parts. Probably just my OCD LOL
Vetech, that thought definitely crossed my mind and I could have done it. I have a bit of OCD as well. But I did not do it, based on the fact that I did have fine control on the other functions. This led me to believe that I did have proper incoming pilot pressure and that there was no malfunction other than in this circuit. I have already removed the valve. I'm going to try for parts before I scatter it out, so I hope I can find them. If not, then I'll be forced to take at least the suspect plunger out and examine how it's built and what can be done about a problem.
Anyone familiar enough with Hyundai's model number system to help me understand what the numbers and pre and suffixes mean? Mine carries a suffix of LC-9, so I would think that in searching for a manual, that would be a necessary match. Sort of a version number. The main size number is I am supposing to be, in my case, the 210. So I wonder how close a 190 would be if the rest of the model designation matched. I notice several have a ROBEX prefix, so I'm thinking that is a product line with quite a bit in common. Ebay turned up nothing, but Scribd has some very close numbers. Cheap enough to download if you have a membership, and I do, although paused. But if I find one that is close at least on the joystick I'd unpause it and grab it. But I'd like to understand which part of the model number is critical. Is it the size number? Is it the suffix, which I kind of feel like it is a revision number, or what? I'm really doubtful that the joystick changed a great deal between close model numbers, so I may just find the closest one, download it and have a look.
As far as I know, it works the same as the Komatsu system. I think all the Hyundai excavators are Robex. The model size is the 210 number. The -9 is the series number and the LC just means the track frames are longer and have an extra bottom roller installed. A number like 190 used to mean the carbody was the next size up from the house. Maybe the carbody is a 200 size while the house is a 150 size. It might also be that you have the same size machine for the 190 and 210 with a difference in counterweight and horsepower. If you can find spec sheets for the two machines check out weights and power and engine models. The critical number though I think will be the -9. They would be the same or nearly the same hydraulic and electronic packages.
Way down starting on page 478 is the disassembly/reassembly of the pilot valve: https://www.scribd.com/document/459791395/Hyundai-R160LC-9-R180LC-9 So far it is the only -9 I have found there that has full documentation. It's not a 210, but I'm thinking that on most of these machines, with a few exceptions, will use the same or very similar PCV. The teardown should be close enough in principle to guide me. They do indeed refer to it as a regeneration valve, but it's got to be a bear to get to. On the MCV drawings, it appears to be on the bottom. I hope I don't end up needing to remove it. Being a different machine, there may be a different style MCV, so hopefully if I do end up there, it will be easier to access. This doc shows it during a complete service of the MCV. Not really planning on removing it. With the MCV out and on a bench, it wouldn't be too bad, but in situ, well...not so much. I'm sure hoping to find something wrong in the pilot valve. And that I can find seals.
Well, there are the components of one of the pilot valve cavities. There is one 'O'-ring and one cup seal in the aluminum bronze part. I was able to source them locally at a seal house. For anyone in the future faced with a lack of a re-seal kit from Hyundai: The cup seal (or "U" seal) is a part number MET-MUU-10 X 16 X 4 in Urethane The 'O' - ring is a N2.50 X 019.0 in 70 Durometer Buna So far I have only cleaned up one set out of the 4, and only found some what I would call sludge or silt build-up. Very little, but these are close fitting parts. The spring that allows the spool to float to a degree is fairly weak, so I can see that perhaps the spool was restricted in movement until that spring was either collapsed solid, or at least compressed enough to overcome that additional friction from the buildup. If that's the case, I can see that unless I replace the hoses in case they are breaking down and shedding, or at least flush out what I can in the system, this is likely to recur. The fact that the guys replaced a hose may have contributed to stirring up some debris.
I did not mention this in the prior post, but it should be noted that the coil springs are not the same on all four spool assemblies. There are fewer turns of spring wire on what we can call the "front" and "back" spools, as viewed per orientation of the joystick handle. The other pair are the same diameter, same wire size, same OAL, but more turns, making them stiffer. I did not measure the compressive force, but surmise they are a bit stronger. They would collapse into solid sooner.
It has been my experience that the weaker springs were always put on the sideways directions of the quad valves but I haven't worked on but a couple of Hyundai excavators.
John, that could easily be true for this machine. I am not the first one in. I can't determine anything solid from the drawing and teardown pics I found other than a note to pay attention to what came from where. It's very possible that whoever was before me put it together wrong. If I knew the reasoning behind it perhaps I could see that I should put them in the L-R holes. I've not really paid attention to the other pilot valves of this style that I've been in. It's been very few and I didn't have them completely apart anyway. In a way, it kind of makes sense, given the symptoms here, but the operators all told me it was fine until the hose burst and replaced, so I'm unsure just how much difference it would make in the operation of that valve.
John, are you possibly suggesting that I consider repositioning the poppets to put the stronger springs on the F-B holes?
It was just a general observation. I always try put those kinds of things back the way I got them.
You are right, JOHN. Robex (Robex is often abbreviated as R) = Model name (It represents the excavator model). 210 = is the weight of the machine = 21 tons. LC = Long Crawler. Dash 9 = Series 9. For your reference. Hope that's useful. https://www.mediafire.com/file/7mw4h4yp2v1mqvi/R210LC-9_Hydraulic_System_Training.pdf/file https://www.mediafire.com/file/jcxx3le8iyqnfxz/R210LC-9_Service_Manual.pdf/file
Great to hear from you again Mr. Lachau!
Mr. Lachau, I cannot tell you how grateful I am for those documents. There is sufficient explanation of the operation of the regeneration valve and the other hydraulic circuits that I will have not many excuses if I can't find the problem and repair this machine. Thank you very much. In reassembly of the pilot valve body, and examining the drawings in the service manual, I am possibly confused, and it may or may not be my fault. I'll post a screenshot of the cross section. In question is the difference in the spring seats, circled in red. They are different in height. I honestly did not notice this until I reassembled the valve and saw that the exposed plunger would not seat at the same height on each of the 4 valves. Looking at the drawing, there are 2 distinct lengths clearly illustrated. This explains the height difference I observed in the push rods. Unfortunately, the pic I took had the spring seat lying on its face, so I can't tell from the pic which one I had out. I know which hole and which spring, but not which seat. Now with a drawing, the ports are identified so I should be able to get everything in the right hole, but the casting is numbered in a somewhat ambiguous manner and I am not sure which hole is which port number. The thicker seats (7) are specified for ports 2 and 4 with the thinner seats (13) for 1 and 3. It seems obvious that the intent is to allow a higher flow/pressure with the thinner seats since they allow further movement of the spool, but the reason is not clear to me, nor is the selection per function. Is the arm, for example, to receive more pressure on the way up or down? Up would seem reasonable to me, simply because that's generally the direction the work is done. And that direction of joystick movement coincides with that thinking. How much difference will this make if it is incorrect? Is there a positive way to ID the port to the hole? It's a casting, so I know there can be passages that direct the fluid in directions that aren't obvious, so I'd like to be sure I understand how this all plays together.
Hi Mr.Tony, Their MAX. pressure and MAX. flow are the same Despite the difference in their push rod stroke. The cause is due to the springs (6) & (12) (please note that their length are difference), the action of springs to establish secondary pressure. When the push rod (11) is stroked, the spring (6) or (12) moves downwards it pushs spool (4) moves downwards. port P is connected with port (1) and the oil supplied from the pilot pump flows through port (1) to generate the pressure. When the pressure at port (1) increases to the value corresponding to the spring force set by tilting the handle, the hydraulic pressure force balances with the spring force. As you can see in Figure 2, for equal control pressure, the stroke of pushrod for ports (2) and (4) must go longer.
Mr. Lachau, thank you for that explanation. So in operating terms, the pressure/flow are no different at the end of the push rod stroke, but due to the difference in springs and thus tilting travel of the operating handle, the control is finer and distributed over that longer travel. I understand. Now my only problem is identifying which of the 4 bores in the pilot valve body corresponds to the port assignments. The bores are not directly aligned with the connection fittings, so how are they laid out? There are obviously 4 bores, a pair for frontward and backward movement, and the other pair for left and right tilt. In those terms, which bore should have the components that allow the flatter pressure/flow curve? For a flatter curve, as provided for in 2 and 4, would that be as simple as selecting the two opposing bores in terms of forward and backwards tilt, or is it correct that there should be greater movement (in degrees) on the forward tilt only? I think my confusion at this point is just which bore and corresponding spool assembly are assigned to which port. Is it as simple as thinking in terms of function? The arm for example, should it have the longer push rod stroke on both front and back movement, and the other function (bucket curl I believe) be set up with a shorter stroke on both left and right movement? I apologize is this is something obvious, but I just cannot seem grasp the link between the named port with the 4 unnamed bores. In other words, do the longer stroking arrangements apply to the arm and the shorter to the curl? Or is it arranged to have different curves depending on which way the tilt is made? (Front/Back and L/R) The "outside view" in that illustration appears to allow different stroke length on opposing bores. That view doesn't appear to identify which would be the "front" of the valve, although it is clear that the left side does have the longer (25°) stroke, and the opposing side, the "back" has the shorter (19°) stroke. I guess I'm basically wishing for a top view showing which bore has which spring and spool assembly. I certainly appreciate your patience with me on this, and your assistance. It's probably more straightforward than I'm making it sound, but I just sometimes have a mental block that prevents me from seeing things if my focus is misdirected. I'm also having trouble asking the question the right way I think. At the moment, it's about 3:30 AM, and that probably isn't helping. Once again, I thank you for helping me understand this.
Mr.Tony Wells, Please don't mind, it's my pleasure to help you.
Ahh, that answers that! And I believe my deduction was correct in how I assembled it. It's good to see proper proof though. I'll find out this morning if it solves the problem, as I had hoped (and tested). I'm going to have to think some about that pressure test I originally did though. If I am reading this correctly, I put my gauge on port 4, so I need to understand why I got the readings I did. After getting documentation, I realize I simply chose the port the lined up physically with the stick handle, and it just happened to be port 4 and coincided with the problem circuit. What luck! Nothing like being armed with good information though. I prefer the documentation. Mr. Lachau, part of my problem at times is being unable to articulate my thoughts. I usually have a fair understanding of the topic at hand, but getting it from the brain to the paper (or screen) sometimes poses a problem. I apologize if I have made this more difficult than necessary. On this repair, you have been invaluable! You seem to be able to figure out what I am thinking, yet am unable to ask clearly. Some of it is probably terminology, but part of it is simply putting thoughts into words. I guess that's why manuals use so many pictures and illustrations. The schematic alone may have illuminated this enough, but with the illustrations there is no chance for misunderstanding on my part. I'll report the results, good or bad, later today or this evening. Thank you very much Mr. Lachau!
Ông Lachau, tôi mang ơn ông vì sự giúp đỡ mà ông đã cung cấp. Cảm ơn bạn cũng cho các tài liệu. Nó sẽ giúp tôi với một máy khác tương tự như máy này. Một lần nữa, tôi xin cảm ơn! Well, "veni vidi vici!" as they say. With the kind assistance of you folks here, with special thanks to Mr. Lachau, the original problem has been solved. As an added bonus, the external seepage around one of the push-rods is also no longer a problem. There are a few minor issues to deal with on this machine, but the only other one of any serious concern was the safety arm. Looking into that microswitch, I found about what I expected...a zip-tie that was holding the switch actuating lever down. There may be some piece absent, but there was nothing that appeared to actuate the lever, or due to overtravel of the safety arm (it does go up quite a bit above horizontal), but the switch was not being held on when the arm was up. The lever on the switch had been bent and mangled, but I managed to straighten it out and it does work now, but because the arm goes too high, it almost allows the switch to go back to the normal position. They wanted this machine asap, so I got it to work consistently for me, and discussed it with the guy who is going to run it and he understands that the arm should be treated a little bit gently until I get it back in the yard and make a piece to limit the overtravel of the arm. After that, I get to hustle up all the pieces of the door latch. With some effort, due to a broken or missing spring I expect, the open door latch has to be manually prepared to receive the door latch loop. For now, they will just leave the door open. Thanks to everyone who pitched in to help fix this!