ive never worked on any heavy equipment so its good to start somewhere i think. Only the first two pictures, that part i got a close up on is the one thats hard to get to. this one which is revealed when i take the top off is easy to get to Does anyone know how i could go about getting to this part so i can plug in the new hose? the old one was leaking so they got a new one made. I want to use this machine because its just been sitting there. So any simple way to get to it since I cant squeeze my hand through? I would also like to know how could I go about replacing the seat and the light on the boom? or getting the manual for it if i cant seem to find it anywhere online?
Welcome to the world of working on equipment. In the first picture it looks like you should be able to get you hand in there but pictures can be deceiving. Looking at it from the last picture I would disconnect the hose right above it to give yourself some room.
thats actually not the one thats the issue. The issue is the first two its very hard and impossible to screw it on there. Is it safe to undo those hoses to get to there? im not sure if its that simple. as u can see in the first two images the big metal part and at least 2 hoses are in the way. i just have to get to it to screw it on
Sometimes a few wraps of electrical tape around the fitting and crimp end will let you spin the hose and fitting together to start a fitting on a hard to get to fitting.
Sometimes it's also good to use a slightly longer hose than the original so you can get more slack to align the threads. Using the excellent suggestion by Mike85 to tape the fittings to the hose, you may need one person aligning the fittings while another person from another position twists the hose so you can get it on. Hydraulic hoses can be such a PITA to replace... For an extreme example, I had a power steering hose blow on a car many years ago. This was the kind of hose that has about 8 inches of rubber hose at each end with the fittings but with about 3 feet of pre-bent metal tubing in between that's bolted directly to the body frame. The shop explained they needed to remove the engine to get to the bolts that hold the metal tubing to the frame in order to replace the hose (which is why I took it in the first place hoping they had a better solution). I asked if they can just reroute a much longer new all-rubber hose all the way around and make it work. They laughed and said "wow- we didn't think of that" and within the day I was driving again.
I think I'd start out first with a pressure washer. It sucks trying to work on that filth
if there is a video somewhere demonstrating this itd be great but im not sure what you mean
it doesnt bother me at all.
Well who took the hose off? Put it on in reverse order.
Sometimes you just have to take alot of things apart to be able to get to what your working on. Welcome to engineers who dont have to repair anything. Ccv leaning is important contamination leads to even more problems. Looks like that plate has to come off to get to the fitting but it's hard to say by pictures. If that's the valve block clean it first taking off multiple lines to get to the one you need to fix is par for the course
We all have to learn somewhere but sometimes the best lessons learned come from letting someone who knows what they are doing take care of it.
The fittings on most hydraulic hoses free-spin to allow the fitting to be tightened (turned) with a wrench while not turning the hose with it (couldn't tighten both ends otherwise). There is also some lateral play in the fitting (back and forth on the hose) to allow the fitting to move up as it captures more threads when tightened. (I know this is all obvious but you asked...) Using the electrical tape to "lock" the fitting to the hose so it doesn't free-spin allows you to initiate threading by twisting the hose from the other side by hand where you have room. Just make sure you tape the fitting so it has all the threads exposed (ie- fitting pushed away from hose). After the threads are started, remove the tape and tighten to spec with wrench. Works great when you can't let your hands in there to finger-start the fitting threads.