It seems to be all there, other than tires being terribly cracked it's not in terrible shape. All the hydraulics work, and there are some chains in the back under the engine that will be a big deal this winter, if they fit. I have no idea how to run one, but when the ground firms up a little I'll start figuring it out. In the mean time it really needs an oil change. The engine is a GM model 4025. I'm guessing that's a Detroit 4-53?
Congrats, Nels. Get the serial numbers gathered up so people can help out the best they can.
I don't have a good picture of the name plate yet, so here's the info I can read. Stock No ** 3805-554-5124 Ser No MD-757, Reg. No. 60D 25 MFG. Huber Warco Co Model 4D Cont No 88A45100-11 Date MFGD 5-6? Eng. Ser.No. 4481747 (or maybe 4A at the start?)
Just for reference, here's a picture of the name plate after a bit of cleanup. Pretty sure the Date MFGD is 5-60. Turns out there are military manuals for these, so I found copies on fleabay: operator's, parts list and depot maintenance. They were a whole lot cheaper than the HW manuals! Hopefully they'll be adequate.
The engine number is 4A81740, now that it's cleaned up. That serial number and model number don't look right for a 4-53?
OH! 4A indicates a 4-71. Well, no downside to that! I found the engine serial number. Looks as if this is not the original block. *4A83438, RC where the model number should be.
Does anyone know what oil filters I need? NAPA doesn't have an entry in their computer for a Detroit 4-71. I'm pretty sure there are two canister oil filters, one larger, horizontal, near the radiator end of the engine, one smaller, vertical, near the flywheel end. If anyone has NAPA or other part numbers for those, it would surely be helpful.
Check in a Baldwin or other name brand catalogue under Huber Warco. I'm not sure if all 4-71 applications used the same filters.
Pull the canisters. The filter usually has a number printed on it. NAPA can cross reference those.
The Baldwin catalog led me to an obsolete, sock type bypass filter. Cross referenced it at Wix to find 51002. The Wix catalog led me to 51133, the full flow filter. Both catalogs had the HW4D, neither catalog had both filters.
Don't care for RockAuto but their both in stock
I like RockAuto's catalog. Often shipping kills the deal, though. I look stuff up there, then go shopping. Parts that have a core aren't worth returning to them, again shipping is too high. I wind up getting a lot from the local NAPA, they have OK folks at the counter and usually get me stuff same day or next business day.
With you on the shipping and like you cross reference part # on RockAuto site & go somewhere local .
Is there a DD dealer you could go to or talk to? Maybe there's an updated filter or a more common filter canister(s) that could replace the ones on it?
There is Western Star up in Fairbanks. Maybe I'll check with them come winter, when I'm not so busy.
Now I just have to find those filters on the machine. The big, horizontal one is easy. The candidates on the flywheel end, driver side turned out the be fuel filters. Still looking for the smaller, vertical one. The Army manual gives me a good closeup of it, but I can't tell where it is.
Got an 1133 from NAPA today. Took the old one in to compare and that's definitely the right one. They had it in stock.
Good deal! Did the old one have a number on it?
I'm starting to think a previous owner might have removed that small, vertical bypass filter. Here's the position where I removed the big filter to change it, drivers side of the grader. Here's the upper view of the same side of the engine. Those two filters at the upper left are definitely fuel, I opend them enough to confirm that. This is the engine from the passenger side of the machine. No filters there! On the far right of the photo there are two sensors sticking out. I suspect they are oil sensors? and may be using the ports that used to feed the little bypass filter.
Couldn't spot a number. It looked as if it had been in there a while. The 1133 is a 32 micron full flow filter. That seems a little coarse, that's probably why they had the bypass filter originally. Wix doesn't publish a micron rating for the 51002 that probably went in the missing filter housing.
I started using the machine, clearing some brush out of the yard, and the shift lever has seized up! Can't get it into neutral, I can only move it fore and aft. I think it's stuck in gear, and when I push it far enough I can stall the engine if I let the clutch up. I'll fiddle with it a bit, for in case the problem is in the linkage between cab and transmission, but I'm afraid one of the shift forks has come off a gear and I'm going to have to take the top off the trans. That'll be a problem: my gantry is in the shop and I don't think this'll fit in there, and it'll be a problem to move it there, anyway. I'm glad the machine is out of the way where it sits, because it may sit there a while.
Is Huber-Warco affiliated with Huber that makes the Maintainer finish grader?
Where is the filler hole for the trans.? On a lot of smaller Massey tractors you can use a long screwdriver in the filler hole to fix a stuck shift fork. Maybe your Huber is similar?
Good thought, I'll check this coming weekend.
Icehole, I'm not sure if it's the same company.
I think the Huber part is. Wouldn't hurt to check with them.
not sure which transmission you have. I have a d6 huber. I have 3 shift levers. F and R, H and L, and 3 speeds. I have2x gotten it stuck between 2nd and 3rd gear. I have to crawl under and pop both linkage into neutral. Possible you have a similar issue?
I have a 4 speed with reverse, and a high- low, so two sticks. You're able to pop it into neutral from underneath? I'll have to crawl under there and mess with it. Can you describe what you do?
Yes I'm able to see that one shifting rod is longer or shorter that the other. Mine are right beside each other. With the grader safe to go under and pressure removed if possible I go under with a prybar and get them both in neutral. I know this as they are both the same length and after this I can pop them in and out of gear with the prybar from underneath with little effort. It only happened 2x and both times I've tried to manhandle the tranny. If I use a softer touch and am not in a hurry it doesn't seem to get stuck. So in my case operator error.
In my limited experience with getting the shifter stuck, it can be avoided by making deliberate square movements with the stick. Straight forward and back, straight left and right. If I try to cut the corner, that's when I run into trouble. I drove a truck with a 5x4 a little and the auxiliary shifter would do it. The trick was to get the stick popped back into the position it was supposed to be in and then it was good to go until the next time I got sloppy. Never had to crawl under it but I've heard stories of that.
Yes, I was definitely getting tired and sloppy, trying to maneuver in a tight space. Thanks, Lowlife, I'll try messing with it from underneath. I'll have to have my son push the clutch in, I don't think my wife is big enough to do that.
It's warm again, and the ground has dried up and the garden is in, so it's time to start messing with that stuck gearshift again. I looked underneath and had my son work the shift lever, I could see there's nothing wrong with the linkage. There is a single lever sticking out of a little housing on top of the transmission, the linkage moves it fore and aft, and pushes it in and out. At this point I'm hoping the problem will be visible when I take that housing off. There is very little space between the top of that housing and the oil pan.
There was just enough space to lift it just far enough. Looks like it wasn't a shift fork out of place, it was the other end of that arm sticking out of the housing. I dropped it into a likely looking spot, and now I can shift it again. The HW manual has a lot more detail than the army tech manuals, was worth $50 bucks on ebay.
I got a load of gravel dumped in the driveway, and started trying to learn to use this old beast. It doesn't look easy, and it's not as easy as it looks. However, I did manage to leave the driveway better than when I started on the second try, after I got some tips from a friend who has many hours on a grader. Now I need to get it ready for winter and snow plowing.
You'll end up with lots of "friends" when you get proficient with snow removal. That is a sweet tool to have in the kit.