Just bought my first track loader a few days ago to clear some of my recreation property , maybe build small pond and possibly a small motocross track. I dont know much about these and a few things have popped up. 1. The machine when started wont move when in gear until engine is revved for 20-45 sec. then moves fine unless shutoff . something is losing prime maybe ?? 2. Have a good oil leak and exh. manifold leak by turbo any common fixes for this or just figure it out ?? 3.Bucket seems to have a good amount of play in pins I can tell while digging or moving bucket around is this common and how important to fix and how hard ? 4. Most cylinder have some seepage and small leakage is this a problem or just add fluid as needed ? 5. Where is the best reasonable place to buy manuals for the best info ? I appreciatte all the help as I am a super novice. Thanks !!
anyone ? Can someone reccomend a better place for answers atleast ?? Thanks
check with jensales on the manuals. Pin wear can be a simple as pins and bushings or as complex as needing line bored. In some cases you just deal with it. hope that help.
if the cylinders aren't leaking to bad just work it. if you don't like it check the crome if it's not scrach or gouged you can by a seal kit and get them rebuilt. try ebay for a manual. exaust if you can weld a patch thats what i would do. pins and bushings can get exspensive and line boreing is worse if your not running it every day try to live with it. the trans sounds like a primming problem but im not a mechanic.
Welcome to the forum chadscamaro. You said you were a super novice, and there are many of us here that are more than willing to help you out, but the things you have posted are not novice problems. We'll do what we can to help, but you must be patient. 1. Contact your Dresser dealer and see if the Service Dept will give you info on connecting to transmission test ports under the seat. You did check for proper oil level in transmission, right? You could have a bad torque convertor, bad charge pump, or a clogged strainer that feeds the charge pump. You have to remove the floor plate, and if there is a lot of debris in the belly of the machine, you might need to remove belly pan under tranny and convertor. Be careful removing those things, very heavy. On the front of the transmission housing, at the left side, and at bottom of trans housing, is where the charge pump suction hose connects to the transmission oil sump. If you remove that housing that the charge pump suction hose is connected to, you should find a strainer inside that housing. 2. Hard to say what your oil leak and exhaust leak is without more info or pics. 3. Any machine of this age is likely to have wear in pins and bushings of work attachments. In some cases, simply replacing bushings and pins takes care of the problem. If the bushings are worn through and wear of pin or bushing boss happens, you either have to weld up hole and line bore, or line bore oversize and install sleeve bushing. 4. Cylinders leaking are an indication that the seals are bad or going bad. Over time, it will start leaking more. If the leaks aren't major, you could use the machine and add oil. But at a certain point, excessive leakage is too much of a mess and you'll have to rebuild leaking cylinders. 5. Not sure where would be the "best" place to get manuals or info. But I will add, if you plan on owning and using this machine for a number of years, you really should start working on developing a good relationship with your nearest Dresser dealer, that's where your parts are going to come from.
Yeah I need to find a local dealer, would it be just an international tractor dealer ? The trans. problem is my biggest concern so I guess I wil;l dig into that first. The bucket seems to move around a good amount so I would assume its past just pins and may leave that alone for a while. Ordered all the manuals yesterday will see what I can do. Thanks for the help.
I guess you could inquire about parts at an International tractor dealer, not sure about that one, but a Komatsu dealer should be able to supply parts.
I am no expert on these, but mine does take a few minutes for the pressure to build up. Do you have a gauge on the far left? I need to wait for mine to show pressure before selecting a direction the first time each day. For parts I think you will need your local Komatsu dealer.
Well my main concern was the guy I bought from seemed puzzled when it wouldnt move right away and said normally it would move when started and didnt have to rev it normally. He seemed to be an honest guy so taking him for his word on it.
How much oil is in the transmission ? Low oil or the wrong grade of oil will cause non-movement. Problem could be as simple as a pressure adjustment or you could have a torque converter problem. The fact that the machine moves once its idled up a bit suggests to me a converter problem or 1st range clutch pack. Does the oil on the dipstick smell burnt ? This could indicate clutch plate slippage. My 2c worth
Thats why I wanted the manuals so I know where to look, what to use,etc. The dipstick I found that I beleive is trans. was a bit low and smelled like hydraulic fluid so I added some. Not 100% sure that was for the trans though untill I get the manuals. Once you rev it for a bit then it will move even with very little throttle not like its slipping just needed to be primed to get moving.
the dip stick for the transmission should be located just back from your bucket controls by the base of the seat(just in front of the fuel tank). Check the level, I believe at operating temp. Mine show 10w or 20w oil as the requirement. Here is to hoping its just the fuild type and NOT the pump or converter. Have you thought about changing the fulid and checking the filters?
I plan on doing as much maintenance as i can once I get the manuals and know where everything is and what to use. That is where I thought the trans. fluid was and I did add about a gallon or so to it.
you may want to check over at redpowermagazine.com under the forums there is one for loaders and such. I think you see the small 70 page manual on ebay from time to time too.
Transmission Oil - the correct grade is Dexron ATF 10W30. IH used to call the stuff Hy-Tran or something similar. Takes about 34 or 35 gals when empty from memory. Use this grade unless you're working at the North Pole or the Sahara !! Dipstick & filler is down by the seat on the right (as you're sitting in it). Finals use 90 grade multi-purpose gear oil I didn't operate these for very long but I had to maintain it or the foreman would have kicked my butt. I used it for trimming up & pulling a sheepsfoot roller. Real nice machine to operate & way more breakout than the 955L we had on site.
175 Hi there is obviously enough oil in the system , If you remove the floor boards there is a suction filter there the first one the pump sucks through it removes any debris going through the pump .It is a washable screen and a check of this will tell every thing going on in side your trans (eg big lumps or nothing ) the oring seal on this filter is critical as any leak lets the oil drain back ,as this filter is way above the oil level. The next drain back check is on the 2 orings on the pump where it goes into the converter housing , this pump slides out no worries . The fact that it operates ok after the system has been charged points to an air leak on the suction side the clutch packs in this trans do not last long enough to burn the oil you run out of drive long before that happend .the 175 is a good machine put a set of td15 chains with grousers on it and it will go any where cheers malcolm
The 175 was a great machine for it's day. But, it had some weak spots, and the hydraulics were one of the worst. The hoist cylinders were too small and the piston seals would rotate out of position when the cylinders got hot. That led to cylinder bore scoring, which led to shapnel being spread throughout the entire system. The hydraulic system was not cooled very well, and in hot climates it really would cook your goose. The Transmission was not too sturdy either, nor the steering clutches and brakes and their controls. The Hy-Trans fluid was top notch though. Too many people just dump hydraulic oil or ATF in the trans and then wonder why their tranny went bad. You have to use the correct oil. Consult any oil supplier for it. The International engine was very good, maybe a bit more horsepower than the drive train could stand after a bit. It always starts wells and isn't bad on fuel consumption. Use red #2 diesel, normal sulphur if you can get it. Many 175's came equipped with a four-in-one bucket, a very poor model at that. First thing to go is the two cylinders that open and close the front part of the bucket. Once those seals start leaking, a lot of dirt enters the system and it doesn't take long to ruin the pump and valves. I've seen a lot of these buckets welded shut and the cylinders removed. Reseal your oil and exhaust leaks with new seals and gaskets, unless you can stand the loss of fluids and the smoke getting in your face. Good advice from others on having the Komatsu dealer people come out and test the tranny pressures, not cheap, but maybe a big savings in the long run. Komatsu should be good for parts too, but check on Ebay and a couple of other sites first. Good Luck!
I really appreciatte all the info and I am going to my property tomorrow to do some tinkering. Still waiting for my manuals to come in so I wont get to involved till i know where things are but may atleast check that screen.
I have a 175B which we have basically rebuilt (see my post). I bought all the manuals from Jensales and they are good. The tranny manual for the b calls for 10 weight, 34 gallons. I also have a lot of slop in the pins, just live with it unless you want to do the line bore. I have been doing some serious digging and pushing and it hasn't caused a problem except a loss of one pin due to the keeper falling out. I found a lot of the parts at CarQuest if you have one. The local CarQuest guy works with me and has a reference manual that lets me order most parts. Browns intl out of British Columbia has stuff you can't get elsewhere. Also, Chartrands in Illinois is great for used parts.
What is the standard or optimum operating temperature for this engine ? Mine seems to run around 200 then after 25-30 minutes starts creeping up to 220+ then I get nervous and stop running it hard ??
Chad, I would take a long look at your thermostat or water pump. If belts are tight and radiator is clear, fan is turning, etc, 200 to 210 would be operating temperature under warm conditions under load. 220 would be max under heavy load with cool down as soon you ease up and keep the RPM up a little. If that isn't happening, either your water pump isn't doing what it is supposed to or your thermostat is stuck.
AFAIK no one has talked about the undercarriage. You might want to get this assessed by an experienced mechanic before you spend much money on the rest of the machine. The undercarriage as a group is the most expensive assembly to rebuild on a crawler dozer/loader and if major repairs are necessary, it may influence your decision on whether to fix your other issues or perhaps just do your work and resell the machine.
Amen to Notrite. My 175B is eating me alive for a busted final drive! We are in the first stage of reassembly and it is going to add close to $2 K to the sunk cost in the loader! Fluid replacement alone is nearly $500.