I rebuilt my Injector pump on a Case 580C but screwed up installing it. I flipped one of the shaft seals. Figured this out when I went to use it. Crankcase was full of fuel. I pulled the pump and sure enough. After I rebuilt the pump, and run the backhoe ran but it seemed to have lost some power. I was thinking it was just timing the pump. So here is my question, if the injector pump was leaking into the motor, would it cause the loss of power? I am asking to decide if I want to ship it off to have it gone though. P.S. Just ordered the tool to hold the seals right to install the pump.
I'd say probably as the case might not of been full of fuel and sucking in air. @thepumpguysc should know for sure.
Is that Dean Martin in your picture
Yes,
I'm older and Italian, he was one of my favorites.
It’s possible that the leaking pump is causing the low power problem, if the pump isn’t filling up with fuel and building up internal pressure, the advance piston isn’t being activated..so the timing isn’t working..
Thank You. Once I get the new seals and the tool, I think I will put it back in and give it a try. If I still have issues, I'll pull it out and send it off to be rebuilt. By the why the engine will hold @ 5 gallons of oil and fuel before it comes out the dipstick tube. I am a little bit worried about the fuel oil mix getting above a piston and have a hyd lock issue. I haven't put oil back in the motor yet to make sure it all drains. Its not like I can rotate the engine by hand.
U don’t have to run it until it comes out the d.s. tube.. U only have to run it a minute and shut it down.. wait a minute and then check the dipstick.. I use clean engine oil to lube the seals and brass pilot tube.. Check the tube for grooves..w/your finger.. Pretty much any groove u can feel, will catch the seal and flip it.. Good luck
There's a plastic sleeve to slide the seals on the shaft which makes life easier too. I'd pull the injectors and crank it over to make sure there's no fuel on top of piston. You can turn the engine over with a screwdriver through the flywheel timing hole as well.
Actually mine was pretty easy to turn just with the fan belt. I just went through all this.
Thanks I am really worried about the hyd lock. I've never pulled injectors. There is always a 1st.
If they haven't been out in a while you'll probably need a puller.
Any help on how to pull them? I can rig up a chain fall?
No chain fall unless you want to be pulling the head off. Tool: otc tool 7121
I have used a lady-slipper bar to help remove injectors.
How about you just try to turn the engine over a couple times utilizing the fan and belt before pulling any injectors. Just make sure to pull fuel shutoff to off position first so you don't lose any fingers in case it starts with your hands in there. Chain fall???
The 580C is running. I ended up using waxed string for tying wire harness to hold the seal while I put the pump on. As far as how it is running, I still think the timing is off. In idle, I can get the engine to accelerate. When lifting an empty bucket I can accelerate the engine. In gear the engine wants to stay at idle. I haven't played with it. the pump does not have a line due to the ring that came out did not have a line on the ring.
On mine when the timing was off it was blowing white smoke and running rough. I believe he advanced the timing less than a ¼ of and inch and it started running fine. With the fuel lines connected there’s not much to play with.
It is not smoking. It's been sitting for most of the Spring and Summer. It just might need some movement to get it going again.
Sounds like the governor / advance isn't working correctly.
The pumpguy should be on soon, he'll get you going.
TPG lives the good life. He's still in his king size bed waiting for his wife to bring him his breakfast on a tray. Only after that will he bless us peasants with his presence.
Lol… u got 1/2 of it right. She did that an hour and 1/2 ago.. I’ve been turning wrenches since.
It will advance not in gear? i.e. I can rev it up. So what needs to be done to free up the governor. Back to lapping?
Lapping.??? WTH r u lapping.?? Did u lose the shims that go in the advance piston.??
thepumpguy: This is the first pump I have every worked on and I am sorry if I don't know the proper names of all the parts. Everything that came out of the pump went back in. Only part changed other than seals was the governor, the part that holds the weights. What I have going on: It will rev up in neutral. If in gear, moving and I give it throttle by handle or pedal, the engine does not accelerate. No Smoke. The only book that I could find on the pump is at the bottom of the page: https://thisisjust4fun.weebly.com/580-shuttle-parts.html Note: the back side of my pump is different, mine has banjo fittings. Power piston / Advance piston on page 1.9. Mine does not have an adjustment. On mine, one has a spring and the other is moved by internal pressure by what looks like a piston. I believe I put these back in there right side... If I flipped these, would that cause this? Looking at the pump instated the part with the spring is out and the one with the piston is on the engine side. Again, sorry for be a newbie.
The link you posted is for transmission parts. Here the manual Operation and Instruction Manual Model DB Pump | PDF | Business | Nature Repair of Stanadyne Roosa Master DB Injection pumps www.scribd.com Back pages have diagnostic chart.
Sorry for the late response.. I’m at the Carolina Fair w/ the grandkids.. This pump rotation is CC.. The spring side is the Clockwise side.. it’s stamped c & cc on the housing.. I hope this helps..
The governor ring needs to have the timing mark properly scribed on to set timing, unless there's a mark on the flange to housing. Which would of been done after it left the factory.
Another thing to check, the piston has to be free to move in the inlet sleeve..check it thru the bottom..
Do not touch the hex in the inlet.!! BTW..there are shims inside the spring piston..DO NOT LOSE THEM..
Rereading your post.. The plug that holds the pistons are different.. The one that’s solid is the SPRING PISTON.. “C” side.. The plug with the slots in it is the power piston..& goes on the “cc” side..
Hope you are having a great time! (Carolina Fair w/ the grandkids). To get this right... from seating in the seat, the spring is on the right side (3 o'clock) and the piston goes on the left side (9 o'clock)?
It’s self explanatory from my answer.. interpret it how u like.
The piston is out... on the CCW side. The ring on the piston... is that a split ring? Two half's? All the photos I've see it is a one-piece ring.
It’s a single ring with one split in it.. It’s not 2 halves. & under it is a square cut oring.. There is also a special tool that compress’s the ring against the oring so it’ll go into the end plug.. WITH THE SLOT IN IT..
Just order new ring X3. 2 day shipping. I bet you I break them getting the first tow on.
One thing u gotta watch for, if you’re going to replace the square cut oring.. do not let it get twisted.!! If it does, you’ll never get the ring compressed enough to get it to enter the plug. (With the slot)