Looks like i need to replace sleeves in a 2015 model as i am getting coolant in the fuel filter water trap and that seems to be the most likely source after talking to 3 good mechanics. Dealer said I need to flare them after fitting with a special tool. I have never gone near anything like this before so i am all ears.
It's a special swaging tool that flares the cup tip on the deck side of the head. If it's not your "thing" , I would definitely invite the dealer tech to do it. There's about 4k worth of tooling to remove and install without harming the head. Plus you got to know how to clean inside the water jacket, and the fancy pants sealing paste. I would pass on that job. It would be a great time to replace the injectors and wash out the fuel tank. If you're getting water in the bowl, you've got a lot of coolant in the tank.
10 k hours on machine. What is the average life for injectors like this on high quality fuel ? Fuel tanl flush would be a good idea.
10 k is a long life on factory inj's when they were trying to figure out injector lift and fuel aeration we would have 2 or 3 sets in . Once they got to the steel cups with conical seats and 3rd gen injectors, things got good. The biggest complaint is, you can't change "just an injector" you gotta go injector, cup and retainer bolt. Again, once things got figured out, they became much more reliable.
@Volvomad drop me a message the tooling is a LOT cheaper than you think it will be, as for the sleeves if you go main dealer you will be forced down the steel sleeves and new injectors route, we have the original copper versions still available so you can keep your injectors, the savings of injectors, main dealer fitter rates and coding in new injectors will pay for the tooling
Are the copper cups a better job and are the injectors worth saving if they are first day. I would think the fuel seperator would have got all the coolant as the warning light is working and 1/2 inch of coolant is the most that was in the plastic bowel at a time.
Right i just assumed as with most Volvo engines the injector sleeves would be upgraded to the steel sleeves, but I can't find any info on replacing them in the D8 engine @funwithfuel can you confirm this, as there is only 1 option in the parts listing for an injector and the same for the sleeve which would normally have both options and part numbers for copper and steel. so maybe there is only copper. i personally would empty and flush the fuel tank, there are plenty of companies about that can test the injectors and report back if they need replacing or if they're good to go again.
Thanks. I better start ripping and see what I have got.
Ok, sorry, got ahead of myself. The 120 has the Deutz engine where the 150 & up have the big bore Volvo engines. Stupid mistake. The deutz still use the compression seal on the bottom of the injector against the cup. No conical seat. I believe it's still copper cups. The tooling is different but the procedure is the same. I don't know if you can borrow or rent the tooling from the dealer. Personally, I can't justify single purpose tooling for one job. I have attached a pdf with the procedure and specific tooling with part numbers. I have also included the cyl head parts page showing cups and O-rings. Again, if you're not comfortable doing this, it might be worth farming out. Make sure you keep injectors clean, bagged and tagged with position as each has a unique trim code written to the E-ECU. Good luck
Thanks. I will read all that carefully . I might be able to get tools from a local engine shop. I have the emision unit ready to lift off and i will start into the rocker cover then. Is there an issue with reusing the high pressure fuel lines ? I will call in the main dealer if necessary but if i do the ground work it should keep the cost down.
They will tell you to replace the pipes and crossover tubes. Clean and inspect for rust, cracks etc. Should be just fine. I've reused on many occasion. Swaging cups on the engine is totally different than swaging on the bench. You only get one shot and you can't inspect your work. Just be absolutely sure the piston is low in the bore before setting up the tooling. You don't want to be sitting on a crown when you flare the cup. Good luck
Before you go to the trouble of removing the sleeves pressurize the cooling system and check for coolant at the top of the injector cups. And 10k hrs on injectors is beyond what I usually see.
Local truck mechanic has flaring set but can any one give me the OD of the largest cone on the flaring tool
I cannot find that information anywhere. I'm sorry. On the big bore engines, they tell you to measure before each use to make sure it isn't worn out. There's no mention of that for the D8J.
Thanks. Dealer said the same thing. If any one could measure the tool , that would be great.
Not one we have either, and same as @funwithfuel I can't find any info on sizes, from what I can see there is only 1 size
Thanks for the help so far. I pressurised cooling system today and no.2 and 3 bubbled around the top of the cups. Seems like O rings may be to blame.
Got tool dimensions so am good to go except does any one have tappet settings and torques for injector clamps, unions, rocker shaft mounts handy ?
Fitted and flared cups, set tappets, fitted new injectors flushed fuel tank and put everything else back where it came from. Had to make a cup grabber to pull old cups as when i tried tapping they turned too easy. 60 engine hours later and all is well. Case closed.
Outstanding
Brilliant , glad its all working well.
Thanks all for the help and input
I have the same problem that I get coolant in the fuel on our 120H and I'm also going to replace the cups no was I wondering if anyone knows what the valve clearance is for the intake and exhaust?
Just confirm, coolant in the fuel or fuel in the coolant? what serial number machine as there are 3 different versions of the D8 in that machine, D8M, D8L tier 4 and tier 5 ? it may be that you won't get much in the way of a reply from me now as it's my last half day before the Xmas break, but if I see a serial number before I go home i'll send through what I can find
It look's like there is only 1 set of setting's for the valves. Item Specification/tightening torque. Inlet valves, angle-tightening Clockwise to zero clearance, then counterclockwise 75° ±10° Exhaust valves, angle-tightening Clockwise to zero clearance, then counterclockwise 105° ±10° Lock nut, valves (nut rocker arm) 20 ±2 Nm (14.8 ±1.5 lbf ft) Valve clearance, cold engine Inlet 0.4 ±0.05 mm (0.015 ±0.0019 in) Exhaust 0.5 ±0.05 mm (0.019 ±0.0019 in) Lock nuts, inlet and exhaust valve 33 +11 Nm (24 +8 lbf ft)
thank you, It's a 2015 L120H with a D8J engine, last 5 digits of the serial number are 14732. the coolant is getting in the fuel. I have more experience with the smaller variant of this engine, the D7E and D7F, from working on trucks and busses and it looks like the valve clearance is the same.
These are specs for the D8L and M engines which are completely different than his D8J engine. His adjustment will be Int zero lash then counterclockwise 75 +-10 degrees Ext zero lash then counterclockwise 105 +-10 degrees lock nut torque 20 Nm
Looks exactly the same to me???
Sorry this was the section I was referring to. I did not delete the section that was correct Valve clearance, cold engine Inlet 0.4 ±0.05 mm (0.015 ±0.0019 in) Exhaust 0.5 ±0.05 mm (0.019 ±0.0019 in) Lock nuts, inlet and exhaust valve 33 +11 Nm (24 +8 lbf ft)
Just to bring my story full circle, around a month prior to my problem (start of thread), the coolant hose to the egr cooler split almost full length, so even though it was shut down quickly, I think the heat may have knackered the O rings around the injector cups .
In my case we had the same situation, a few weeks prior we had the lower water hose on the egr burst open. but when i pulled the cups there weren't any split o-rings, but the o-rings wheren't looking all to nice. here are some photo's of the old and new cups.
Did you manage to solve your problem?
Yes the problem is solved.