I just bought an old 175C loader to use on the farm. I'm looking for some information on it. The serial number is 4290004U003648* It has pedal steer instead of the levers. Does it also have a decelerator pedal? The last owner said he just shifted between forward and reverse without decreasing the throttle. Is that right? I bought the manuals from Jensales and the owners manual doesn't make any reference to the decelerator when the machine is setup for pedal steer. I'll say this...its a beast. The hour meter works and it shows 727 hours. Thank you
Always glad to see a new 175 owner. She's a beaut! Based on dozerparts web site , look like you have a 1979 model. It also has the updated filter location (cabinet by the shifter). Looks very similar to ours. The decelerator is built into the brake pedal. It will probably require some adjustment. You'll need to remove the floor pan to get to the adjustment rod which leads down to the pump, which you'll probably want to do anyway to inspect and clean around the brake pulleys. Does your manuals show the pedal steer? You may be like us and have the older manuals. Jensales has the newer manuals, but they're not listed on the website, you have to call to get the newer. What's your plans with the machine?
From your SN, looks like a 1979. It should have three pedals, the middle pedal will be the brake and decelerator. Are you sure you got the right manuals? Our manuals give a detailed procedure for adjusting the brake and decel. They are tough old machines which are fairly easy to work on. Biggest problem is finding certain parts and if you do find them they are extremely expensive. First thing I would recommend is to change all filters, lubes, and go over it with a fine tooth comb. From the picture, looks like a good clean loader. Refer to Boone's thread entitled "My First Track Loader" Has a lot of good practical information for the 175C owner.
I got the service manuals and I was able to find a section on adjusting the brakes. I'm still looking for the decelerator adjustment page. We got it to do some big work on the farm we bought last year. We got a PC200 excavator last year (another piece of old iron) and the 175 will help move some of the big stuff we have on the property. I think I got a great deal on it (he even delivered it) and it runs like a top. No smoke, no leaks that I can see and low hours. He said he only used it to pile topsoil. I want to go over it front to back top to bottom but right not I have to use it to get the road base down but I will figure out how to get the decelerator pedal fixed. Right now when I push on it, it doesn't seem to do much of anything. Steering pedals seem to be adjusted properly. I wish I could make time to post pictures like you have. Keep them coming.
Sounds like you made a score. They're a very capable machine. Parts and parts prices can be a challenge, but if you shake the bushes enough, you'll find 'em. All of these type machines as you well know need to be worked on at some point. The good thing about the 175, is it's easy to work on IMHO.
So I used it for a few hours this weekend and saw antifreeze coming from the front of the engine. Moved it to a level spot, raised the arms up and put a brace under them and shut it down. Looks like the water pump went bad. There's a lot of wobble in the fan. Any idea what the part number is for a replacement pump? Do I have to take the radiator off to replace it or would there be enough room to leave it in place? Thanks in advance
For a DT466 engine, the whole assembly part # 677 863 C91. We have never had to replace the pump on ours. It would be nice if you could replace it without taking off the nose. Maybe someone who has done this job can answer your question.
Before you go to draining or leaving the machine with the loader standing on blocks, find a steel supply and pickup some heavy wall square pipe. Have it cut or cut it where it will sit over the lift cylinder rams on BOTH sides for safeties. I used 3" pipe with 1/4" wall for my machines in the past. Last 175 I worked on was thirty some years ago, had to roll the hardnose and pull radiator to access w/p effectively.
Thank you very much. I'll order it today. I took a few pictures just for reference
Congrats on the 175c, good machines as others have said. I was able to change the water pump on my td15c with the same engine, but I think the loader is a limited on room. If you can get the fan and guard out of the way, it can be done. As for the decelerator pedal when you push it about halfway down it'll decel the engine, all the way down engages both brakes and ability for a parking brake . You should be able to find the adjustment procedure in your manual if not I'll look at mine when I get home and let you know where it's at. It's supposed to help cut down on wear when shifting the transmission I definitely like having mine some people dont like it though.
Greetings Gentlemen. This is my first post. I have enjoyed reading about your equipment. I have a 175c myself. Just over 3,000 hrs. Everything is straight, no bends or breaks. A good cleaning and a little paint would make it look like it only had about 3,000 hrs. on it. It also has the center brake-decelerator which I am not a big fan of. I have owned many IH loaders and dozers and my favorite set up was always hand steering with decelerator at left pedal. I now use excavators to load trucks so my 175 with brake decelerator, decelerates very quickly and I hardly use the brake. These machines are made to shift at full throttle. I do have a big problem trying to replace hoses. The hoses that lay on top of the lift cylinder, between 2 plates of steel with a small round access hole. I can get one wrench on and it is pretty, but cannot be moved a 1/4" in any direction. Someone please tell me what I am missing, and thank you. JM
Most times the cylinder needs to be detached and collapsed then partially removed to replace the hoses The access ‘hole’ is more a inspection point. Crow foot wrenches some help but gain little as to leverage
Hi Jeffrey, welcome to the forum. Are you sure you have a hose on the top of the lift cylinder? It typically has a hardline on top of the lift cylinder and the hose is at the bottom end of the cylinder. Now there is a rubber hose on the lift cylinder line that can be seen and accessed through the small round hole you describe, but that is a grease zerk hose for the bottom pin. At first glance you might think it's the hydraulic line. I would imagine you'll need to remove the back skid pan to get at those hoses, but I can't remember. We've not had to replace or remove the lift hoses.
Welcome to HEF, Jeffrey !
Thanks for your input. That is exactly what I thought I would have to do. There are two I will replace. They power the clam shell. Just replaced the packing in the lift cylinders. Should have replaced them then.
"Dozeroperator" , l just bought a 175C , l push all l can on the middle pedal and it dont move , the steer pedals work up and down ok , ld rather have the middle decelerator pedal working and not have to decelerate using the hand throttle. l can imagine theres rust causing the problem , it dont look like an easy job down in there .
The steer pedal works the throttle shaft by an adjustable bolt just under the fllor plate. When you partially push the pedal, it decels, further engages the brake. You may need to unhook the brake rod to see what's froze up. It's not that bad f a job, a loader has a little less room to work than a dozer is all. This is an old thread, may want ti start a new one.
Heck, I've never used the middle as a decel. Never found any info in my manual for this... Now the brake does work along with the lock. Next time I'm out in the woods, I'll look under the pan.
Just noticed my post, should have read center pedal, not steer pedal. I show adjustments for it in my manual along with parts manual diagram. Definitely easier on the Trans to decel before shifting.
Take the fan and fan guards off and you should be able to change out pump
I'm look for an oil cooler for my 175c I'm not haven any luck any idea's where I could come across one
Welcome to HEF! Have you tried Zimmerman Tractor in Versailles MO?
The last 175 I have seen in ten years was at a Scrapper being hacked to pieces.
Hello, first time on the forum, got a 175c that im splitting the tracks on, but dont want to cut the master link ( previous owner welded it in). My question is dose anyone know where to get a new master pin or should I get one made. Any help is appreciated.
I just pulled the track on my 175c and rebuilt the track adjuster without ever breaking the track. I pulled it up on one track with my excavator, you could jack it up and block it onone side, then use a dozer or big tractor to pull the track sideways while walking the track off. Put it back on the same way. With the track seal blown, the adjuster was fully collapsed, so collapse it first.
I'll look into this method tomorrow. Thanks for the insight.
Master pin , Berco # IN2820 . VPI # VIN2820 . Chains using 9/16 “ hardware , Master pin , Berco # IN2567 VPI # VIN2567
Chains using 9/16 “ hardware , Master pin , Berco # IN2567 VPI # VIN2567
1976 175c here. Fan questions. Which side faces the radiator - concave or convex? I think the last guy put it on backwards. Please advise. Also, should the blades on springs move freely? These seem frozen in place. thnx
Also, I need to replace the fan belts. Do you know the size / part #? Thnx
Spring loaded the blades are reversible for flow. Push in toward center to disengage spline or hex shank(usually will not move) and rotate to push or pull position 180 degrees rotated. IIRC this style fan did not have a rotation position as could be reversed on machine. Belt numbers I do not have.
OK, thank you. I think the last guy flipped the fan around. Which way is it to be mounted - convex toward radiator or concave toward radiator?
Think about that, if blades can be rotated the Convex side can be unassociated to how mounted. Basic rule on these, concave side is discharge side regardless of how blades sit, if installed in direction of engine rotation Concave will Push air thru radiator(Normal) or Pull thru (for winter), installed where fan would be reversed the convex becomes the discharge side and does not work adequately in either position. With blades as positioned on the hub, and thinking on Rotation of that hub with Engine rotation, does the Concave side or Convex side push air?
I've logged 30 minutes operating a 175. If I recall, it was a C. It had hand lever steering, and a decellerator. I was considering buying it, found a broken cross member. Looked a big thing to fix, then no certainty it'd hold. I didn't buy it. Charlie Abbott RIP had a dozen or more. His little brother, now 85, still owns some. I asked how many he still has? "Just two" he answered. I've seen three running, and others not running. I believe all his are IH machines. The nicest wears Dresser decals, but I believe only the decals are Dresser. About half his machines have the Drott Skid loader, a truly useful accessory. I've watched as they lift stones & stumps directly from the ground. Moving a truckload of material with a loader is tough to get the last. A Drott makes it easy. Even spreading or flattening the ground is easier with the Drott. I think all IH machines were produced in USA. Dresser, at least some are made in Korea. My Dresser TD7G is Korean built. Many parts are IH including hood. TD7G had an IH hood, but a fabricated box for exhaust sits atop the hood crudely welded on with a non skilled stick weld.
Thank you for redneck schematic! See my two pix. We finally got the water pump snuck out of there. Fan looks to be concave facing radiator (bad) and pushing air (also bad). Machine overheats so that is what we are trying to remedy. Plans to remove radiator and clean, then make sure we get the fan pulling cold air.
On Dozers or Loaders, Better for Fan to push thru Radiator in Summer, Concave toi Radiator and Pushing Air is actually Good. DT with PSB Pump
Yeah. Seems counterintuitive. Here is a pic from a different 175c w/o reversible blades. Looks like it's in the push position. Since overheating is our problem, you're telling me that pushing wind from the engine to the radiator is the way to keep the engine coolest?
Main reasoning Push Dirt and Debris AWAY from the radiator as work the machine. Also keeps the Boiling Heat air off the operator.
Unless you are only going to be working in mud, by that I mean no dust, you want the fan pushing. Otherwise, you will have your radiator plugged tight in an hour. My guess on why your tractor isn't cooling is you don't have the radiator clean enough, the fins are all bent over, pulleys shot, water pump impeller shot, the list is pretty extensive. Check your radiator and piping with an infrared gun and see what's going on. Your top and bottom should differ by about 10-15°. Less means dirty radiator, more is a flow issue.