I am looking for information on a IR T30 5 horsepower compressor. My neighbor who was skilled in many areas, has this IR T30 compressor. He has since passed away. I am helping the widow to liquidate some of the deceased husband's assets. My question is, I see no relief valve on this machinery. Should it not have one? I did plug the compressor into a receptacle and the compressor runs fine. I did not leave it run any longer after it reached 160 psi. I do not know what the hi and lo limits are set for. This compressor was not currently in use. So, I guess my concern is about safety, operating the compressor. Any thoughts? thanks
T30 is the line of compressor, they come in different sizes and configurations, and that's just the compressor head. Is this a commercially made vertical tank compressor, or some other kind of machinery? Any compressor with a tank should have a relief valve.
The compressor should be equipped with a pressure switch, just like you would see on a shallow well water pump to shut it down when it reached the set pressure. Most common pressure would be 120psi. Also the tank should have a blow off valve that is set a bit higher than the pressure switch, say 140 psi. There are many many different sizes and versions of the T30. Should be a tag on the side cover opposite the end of the crank shaft the drive pulley is on. Post a couple pictures and we can probably give some more information.
I also thought it should have a relief valve. It is a horizontal storage tank. I will add some pictures of the compressor tomorrow. Thanks
If it is a 2-stage T30 (I own one) the pressure switch should cut it off at 175 psi, and the relief valve should open at 200 psi, only if the pressure switch malfunctions. On edit: I looked at IR's website, and all the T30s listed are 2-stage, with the pressures I mentioned above.
IR T30 Compressor Thanks Mitch504 and all. First off, if this is not in the correct forum, please let me know. Still trying to find my way in hear. Here is what I have, see the pictures. What type of air cleaner element is used for this compressor? Currently has none. Picture of plug at C-5 stamped on metal, is that where a safety relief valve should be? thanks
What appears to be a brass pipe pug in the last picture is where one safety valve should be. It should be rated at approx. 60 PSI. This is for the intercooler. This is not the one for the air tank. There should also be one on the tank that is set for somewhat higher pressure than the unit is designed to run. Looks like the MAX pressure the tank is rated for is 200PSI.
Thanks kshansen, I saw a picture of a similar compressor on the net that appeared to have a safety valve in that position you have mentioned. Is there another location where a safety valve needs to be located? As I stated earlier in this thread, I had the pressure up to 160 psi, until I pulled the plug. The info on the data plate of the pressure says cut in at 80 psi and cutout at 100 psi. As mentioned it ran up to 160 psi and still operating. Is the pressure switch adjustable for the low and high cutout? Thanks
Big nut is pressure, tighten for more pressure. Little nut is the differential, don't mess with it for now. The 80-100 is just what the switch was set at when new, it looks like it's been cranked down to me, it could be set for 175 and be functioning fine, but you're wise to exercise a little caution with a 70 year old tank. The relief valve should probably go into the same tee that the pressure switch is tied into, just not after that shut off valve!
Delmar Just so I understand correctly, the hex nut in the last picture and on left side in the above picture is for the high cutout? Any specs. as to where the nut should be positioned to be backed off to approximately 150 psi? Could the new safety relief valve be installed in either of the two locations shown in this picture below? What do I look for in this new valve, a 175 psi max. rating? Would you have a name of a supplier for this type of valve? thanks
Yes, the big nut. I'd run the compressor until it reaches the pressure you want, then shut if off, UNPLUG IT, and back that nut off until you hear it click. I'd use the top hole for the relief valve. What's that green thingy in the bottom of the pic? You might find a relief valve at a hardware store/building center, or you could order one online and maybe get the filters from the same place. Search air compressor parts to start, I can't recommend one over another.
That looks like the petcock for the tank drain.
Square ball valve with a green handle?
Here's a link to a Graingers site that list all kinds of the safety relief valves: http://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=safety+valve Maybe someone else can give some hints on which one would be best for your application, I'm too tired from fighting this snow storm tonight
Okay, I will back off the adjustment to about 125 psi for now. That is correct, a drain ball valve on the bottom of tank. I will research for a supplier locally for a safety valve for this compressor. I will carry a picture of the air cleaner elbow for identification, perhaps. Thanks
Thanks for the link, a lot of choices. Can someone recommend a suitable safety valve? What snow storm? Heavy rain here, not snow.
They made all sorts of T30s in all sorts of configurations. I picked up a 3 phase, 60 gallon, WATER COOLED, continous run T30 in January. It had no unloader and was plumbed to run off a water line. I have yet to see another water cooled one in person.
Your tank appears to manufactured in 1944. Might want to make sure its not rusting out internally, they can explode otherwise. The T30 debuted in the 1920s IIRC.
Does your water-cooled air compressor have its own water pump/circulator? Does your compressor have any safety valves? Where are the safety valves located? How can one tell if the tank is rusting from the inside? Your compressor sure looks like a heavy duty cycle unit. Thanks for sharing.
That's a new one on me did not know they had water cooled versions.
It didn't have a water pump or anything. It was hooked to a waterline where it it flowed through the compressor and then discharged into a drain. The only safeties it had was a low oil shutdown and the over-pressured pop off. It was a 1990. It was a craigslist deal that I didn't really need but I was able to trade it for a diesel genset project. My crude way of doing it is rapping on the very bottom (length of the tank) with a small hammer. You will hear a dull "thud" if its thin. Or tap on the top of the tank and compare the sound. If your tapping dents the bottom of the tank, its not a good sign! Hope this helps.
Guess one could mount a small car radiator so the flywheel fan blew air through it and connected a small 120volt water pump up to circulate the water when ever the compressor was running. Or if you had a swimming pool that needs some extra heat connect it to flow the water through the pool filter when you are using the compressor! No sense in wasting the heat