Hi Has anyone ever heard of the old school quick fix where as you stick a few banana skins into the diff of your old car to quieten and help it last longer when its just about stuffed.. A mate of mine did it got teh tip from an old mechanic (laughs) pretty insane,i just couldnt stop laughing at that one. anyway ,the point of the topic was to ask can i add a proper high viscosity additive to 80/90 gear oil usd in moderatelty high ambient temperatures to reduce any further wear on the drive drain. Posted a topic about my wearing final drive ,some of the teeth have come away and mulched up the surfacing of the others...Once i clean it all out ,i am aiming for the best Dr Lube out there to keep it going for as long as i can.. any ideas or stories would be great... By the way that story about the banana skins is true ,i have also heard adding saw dust to oil is great...HAHAHA.....bush mechanics ! !!!!!!
I have seen the banana thing on a video shot in Africa. What about running something like 75/140?
Yair . . . Jdr . Mate, if the surface is coming off the teeth on what I assume is a dozer final drive nothing much is going to help. I believe some additives will extend the life of components in good condition but once you get to the stage of the oil looking like silverfrost it is pretty much game over. Having said that, if you are in the situation of needing to finish a job in a remote area or that sort of deal it may be worth a try . . . it shouldn't make the situation any worse. Be aware that you could do some real expensive extra damage if the sucker does clap out. And yes the banana/sawdust carry on has happened . . . and I saw an example of a beautiful refurbishment and respray of the front mudguards of a HD Holden all done with newsprint and paper-machie, they had sort of fin extensions near the headlights and they always used to rust. Cheers.
I've heard good things about zinc additives, not so much about sawdust. Banana peel is a new one on me. I thought the purpose of sawdust was to make it quiet in order to sell it fast, never heard of people actually expecting it to last longer. If that machine was mine, I'd put it back together the way it came out. Get some neodinium magnets and either epoxy them to the drain plug or inside the case, and/or stick them to the outside of the bottom of the case in an out of the way place.
yes scrub puller it is a crawler loader.uploading a few pics it may be hard to get parts for this thing.Mid 80 JD crawler .I will try the dealer today..Does anyone now who does after market parts for JDs or second hand gear ? Farlsincharge ,75/140 sounds like to go actually,i believed 80/90 was the thickest ,but apparently not thanks..Delmer ,good call with the magnets,i noticed my drain plugs are not magnetic,and i love neodynium magnets ,we had some at work ,joining them togther can be fun and they are so strong you need to watch your fingers ...
some more close ups...eye tearing close ups..i hope to get it going for now...my whole thing was to buy a machine that was needing little work to begin with...the same old story though,the seller couldn't say enough how much he looked after the machine and changed all the oils only JUST recently etc etc...the machine looks pretty though all painted up..and then i find every oil in every tank is full of water ,most oils were so bad they were literally black...hydraulic oils are smokey with water,i drained water when i pulled the hydraulic plug out....buyer beware and check out your machine before you buy unlike i did..
those 2 chipped gears are worth $1900 each...in reality $4000 .. What approach would i take ,remove the whole tooth or just clean them up...what to do.....??
Yair . . . Jdr . I feel for you mate. What are you trying to do? . . . in reality that whole arse end is cactus and isn't fit to put to work no matter what oil you put in it. Commiserations.
Give these guys call or E mail Jdr on the planet gears www.sewlparts.com/Crawlers.aspx They keep a lot of used JD equipment parts .It looks bad but If this machine is only for part time short work I would replace the chipped planet gears & clean everything up & put back together with 90 weight oil . Probably last you a long time . Another place to try is www.minnpar.com for aftermarket parts . Best of luck with it .
td25c ,scrubpuller ,hey thanks for the tips,i'll definately send an email...i have been looking for a few places to contact for parts,so thank you a lot for the links td25c . If the parts are out there i could save a lot of money ,it would mean i could fix it right if things fall into place ,right parts ,right price,and in a more timelt fashion..thanks again mate.But for now like you say i'll clean it up and use it. The planets maybe could be machined up by some machinist,i'll have to ask if it comes to that. the dozer will be pushing dirt ,it may need to only do 20-40 hours in the next 6 months roughly,could be less...i am only pushing some dirt around here and there ,ripping a bit of clay if need be. i most likey intend to fix it properly when the money is there.I'll see . i don't know about availabliity yet for the genuine parts ,but after a phone call to the dealer it looks like they are available still waiting for a call back on that to confirm ,i can not afford them though at this time..The price for the casing above which is around the sun gear there,it's $6000.00 from the US and the gear hub in the pic is also another $6000.00 the bearings amount to around $1900.00 and the seals another $1000.00
just a quick question about planetaries ....is it common for them to lose teeth out of fatigue,i've not delt with many before...just trying to understand why they break teeth .It could be any reason i suppose in reality..If there is something i am missing while i have this thing apart for now ,i should look into it..The sun gear shaft rotates on a bearing and is held central in the planets simply by sitting inside them from what i can see ,once the planets are pulled out the shaft can actually pivot and raise at all weird angles.
The photos don't give a lot to go on but I'd say that for a kickoff it had a lubricant in it that was something akin to grinding paste..........the clue is all the crud in the splines in the photos on post #5. Planetaries can shed teeth for various reasons. If you can get some good closeup photos of the teeth that appear in the top 2 photos of post #6 and post them we might be able to give a better opinion.
hard to get some really good pics up close...i get too close it blurs out.the top ones show the planets
Yeah Jdr .. Give those guys at www.sewlparts.com a shout before you put it back together . I would at least try to find good used gears to replace the two that have chipped teeth . Never know ... They may just sell you the gears that you need at a good price and I don't think shipping cost would be to bad for a few gears . Best of luck with it mate.
yeah mate ,i am waiting to hear from sewel parts ,i sent him an email....fingers crossed..it seems there are chips mostly at the top edge of the teeth
Yair . . . Jdr in my experience it can be a bearing flogging out or moving in a housing that starts the rot . . . a bit of misalignment and there's a flake, a chip, a gouge, then a corner comes off a tooth and goes through gears and things go downhill fast with the oil turning to "silvafrost" as mentioned in my #3 post . . . also described as "grinding paste" by Nige. This stuff is catastrophic in bearings and edges coming off teeth is typical damage seen as tapered roller bearings wear and develop "end float" instead of "pre-load". As others have mentioned it may be possible to dress gears, remove teeth and adjust some slop out of bearings. In my view though there are some dangers and if you do put the machine back to work I reckon you should check drain plugs for major pieces every few hours and take it very easy especially with ripping. Cheers.
The taper bearings are indeed looking shabby ,these ones are dull and have small inperfections all over them. .nothing like new ones where new ones are smooth and shiny..
it's a freak show in there....
Double post. Sorry.
That final drive has been full of ****. The pictures of the bearings prove it. All those "small imperfections" are the result of particles (and not necessarily metallic ones either) being crushed in between the bearing rollers and the raceway. None of the gear tooth failures show signs of high-cycle fatigue so I would suggest that any hypothesis of poor-quality gear material can be ruled out. No way that FD can be "patched up". It needs a full blown proper rebuild.
this is the right hand side final,the left looks quite good.I drained the oil and pulled it down ,no metal.The bearings are showing wear though.i should replace them as well.The splines are all good,the pinions planets are all good ,no chips ,it has had some small grinding repairs on hub gear but it is nothing particulary important.i may post some pics.. Thanks nige for your input.i just bought this thing 2 weeks ago,had it shipped from QLD and took a guy on his word this thing was in top shape,all oils are clean and no problems...some people ! and the old famous quote came out before i bought it "trust me hey i wouldn't tell anyone it was ok and then sell it off" haha ,well he did.The hydrostats are leaking all over the place too,both of them, the machine was washed up and had so much dirt thrown into the belly plates one removed the oil was visible.. **** is all i can think of saying now....