Hi everyone new to the site looks like there is alot of knowledgeable people here. So I'm looking to buy a 1996 jcb 214 4x4 with a syncro shuttle transmission which has some problems. They owner has been very upfront about it and has let me try it and abuse it. He pushed snow with it when under heavy load it acts if it looses power or the trans is slipping I couldn't get it to do it just what he told me it does but what it does do for one it is very hard to get in gears while it is running but it will shift. At an idle when you change forward to reverse the buzzer alarm goes of with the little red light lit with the gear and oil drop in it which I think is for the tourque converter but if you Rev it the light goes out All other hydraulics work great with plenty of power. He has replaced all filters and checked the screen but no pressure tests have been done. I can buy it for what I think is a very fair price I know it could be very expensive to fix. I do all my own mechanic work . I'm just planning on using it for digging with the backhoe Any thoughts on the problem Thank you
Morning Very simple being a syncro shuttle only two clutch packs forward and a reverse the main problem it seems as if may be the clutch pack is slipping which would give you the lack of power but difficult to engage is either the the transmission dump not working ie wont brake drive or clutch pack breaking up jamming or if it has had a transmission cooler fail the antifreeze breaks down the friction material of the clutch packs causing loss of drive or them to swell up not allowing it to brake drive ,some of these had plastic pistons instead of alloy ones ( JCB Ti to change out on rebuild and fit alloy ones ) which the antifreeze acts causing pistons to drag as well. You need to ask when he pulled the screen on the bottom what did he find fibre like material would be clutch friction and the obvious metal or blue shaft seal material would mean bearing breaking up. As far the light coming on on tick over could be a pressure switch or might be mail line pressure so suspect internal leak in box or charge pump .there is also a pressure releif valve on the top of the gearbox . It would sound like first step would be get it hot and pressure test followed by dropping screen out of the gearbox to see what is on it. It looks like you might be in for a rebuild. I have done loads of these when working for JCB so a few pointers change charge pump and make sure you change the copper washers and tourqe correctly to save leaks ,put an exchange torque in but make sure you set the run out on the flexi drive plate engine and make sure that plate is not cracked. as far as the box goes very simple in design but will need to check end floats to prevent bearing wear on each shaft shims are under the outer bearings in the casings. Clutch packs need to be alloy ones not plastic and the correct end float is important on the packs shims are available for this so I hope this helps you if you need more help just shout.
Had the same issue on mine when I purchased it, the tranny had been rebuilt but the "low pressure" light would stay on and it had a small tranny oil leak. I found out that the leak was coming from the oil pressure sender near the rear of the tranny was leaking internally from the sender, replaced the oil pressure sender and all was good afterwards. Check for tranny oil leaks first, if there are no leaks then you may need a rebuild like JCB Jeff said. I don't know too much about trannys on these, just the basics, hope you find the problem.
Thank you guys for your thoughts. They are deleviring it tomorrow so i will have some things to try jeff do you know how to idetify these jcbs its supposed to be a 1996 214 series2 but i seem to be having a hard time finding much info about this model when i search the net it has a serial number of 442548 is there anywhere other than a jcb dealer to source parts like on the internet i need to get a parts manual and repair manual as well
when you get the m/c not sure from memory but will need to fire up other lap top on s/no but tell me if you have the hydraulic tank in the front of the machine or you have a hyd tank and fuel tank as saddle bags either side of the machine and forms the steps to get into the cab . Here in the uk we have a number of parts suppliers that deal with non genuine parts for these machines for the transmission parts JCB build them their own in Wrexham north wales so to look for non genuine parts the factory that builds them are called international transmissions and these layouts are fitted in all sorts of machines and world wide . You will find a part number on the gearbox casing near the rear of the gearbox by the hand brake disc which identify the gearbox. Manuals are available from places like ebay and a like and some on the web. The machine with the hyd tank at the front and the fuel tank under the windscreen and the bonnet opens forward i would call a project 7 m/c and the other with the side tanks and bonnet split up the middle will be called a project 8 m/c if that helps that is uk anyway not sure if that relates to the 214 as ours are 3cx and have side shift not center mount back hoe .Engines are perkins so an industrial unit so should be able to source this anyware
Post a few pictures of it when you get it.
Low and behold the jcb came with all of the oem manuals for it It does have tanks like saddle bags Sobif you was gonna do a general rebuild of the transmission what all would you replace while you where in there I have been looking at the parts manual it does seem pretty simple just don't no what I'll I should replace
Keep in mind this is just a backyard toy not a job site unit I want to do it right just as a ford able as I can Probably will replace tourque converter too Thank you
First thing drop the oil see whats in there and then pull out trans if you put loader arms up and prop them lift machine up on the legs and put some wood under the rear wheels just to give you a bit more room to work ,drop exhaust stack pipe off and gear stick from top of gearbox 9/16 spanners req remove props and h brake cable disconnect forward reverse power cables and pressure switch. remove black rubber oblong bung from bell housing and mark flexi plate to flywheel in case you going to reuse the torque undo the 6 short bolts holding the flexi plate and pull the torque back wards towards the rear of the machine and check that it spins so as its free from the spigot in the flywheel disconnect the 4wd solenoid or cable could be either . use a transmission jack or a trolley jack with a cradle to fit the sump under the gear box the weight will be between the sump and the h brake disc for balance. undo the the 15/16 bolts to the chassis and the two 3/4 bolts to the gearbox and should be free just the ring of bolts around the bell housing remember to use a jack under the sump and lower both together the back of the engine block will rest on the bulkhead if you put a small peice of wood to make things safe. As far stripping down remove torque by pulling it straight out you will have oil so have a tray to drain into remove the 4 bolts on the charge pump and watch where the oil gallery hole is for when you put it back together strip the pump and check the white metal bearing and also damage to the pump i would throw in as a matter of course but if funds are low check and see first renew the copper washers and make sure the correct torque setting is used all they will leak and the square section ring . tip box up onto the bell housing will need a hole in the bench or couple of bits of wood just so as the shaft clears.remove gearbox turret 4 bolts check that the plastic bush inside is ok,once bolts around the two halfs have been remove lift casing off and then you are in to strip out further you will need to remove the detents for the selector shafts inside the box there is a interlock plunger then slip all the shafts out .things to check end float on hand brake disc to strip the clutch pack you will need to remove the bearings from either end we used a nylon wear pad and drop the end of the shaft square on it and the weight of the gear inside will move the bearing remember how the shims and thrust bearings go together next you will need to remove the big circlip on the basket and take apart the friction and counter plates remember how it goes together to remove the piston you will need to press down on the piston piece of tube with square cut out so as you car release the circlip and then let off the press so as the piston spring can release and to get the piston out with a air line in the hole in the end of the shaft that the oil would flow down normally and the piston will blow out. check the basket for wear in the vertical slots for the plates and the internal hub with the slots for ridges as this will cause drag on the clutch plates . If all is good replace or rings and make sure that the pistons are alloy and not plastic as this is now been modified to stop them swelling up and dragging the packs.rebuild with new friction discs the paper ones soak in trans oil first for 1/2 hour or so before fitting if the counter plates are burnt or blue replace check the spring disc is ok and rebuild you will need to shim the last one after the large thick washer with a dti gauge against the large circlip you should be looking for 0.126 to 0.173 in free play if not order shim kit to obtain the correct reading.replace the blue seals on the shafts wind them around you finger a bit and put some thick grease on them on install be careful lowering casing back together make a tool to go through the bolts on the h brake disc and you can lower it down squarely .replace the o rings between casings . also check the bearings if you replace them you will need to check end floats on shafts the bearings are able to turn in the housings so don't panic but check that its not worn in ridges.If you get stuck just shout Jeff
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Jeff I was able to run machine a couple of hours tonight I didn't work it real hard but didn't have any issues outside of the fact it is hard to get in gear and when you go from forward to reverse it buzzes the alarm and the tourque converter light comes on I have been reading the service manual and I think I have the right idea on how this trans works correct me if I'm wrong The reverser clutch is your forward gears and what they refer to as the drop box clutch pack is what controls your neutral and four wheel drive I was pricing parts out it seems I could by all new plates for both packs and a new pump for around 1000 which I didn't think was to bad According to the book this serial number of machine should have the metal pistons instead of the plastic Thank you for your help
You have forward and reverse clutch pack which is on the same shaft and only works when the solenoid on the box is energized ,the gear stick can also give you neutral .4wd is either cable or a solenoid on the back of where the front prop comes out these are either spring on or spring off so ie when they fail it either has no 4 wd or its stuck in permanent .First thing is really to put a pressure on main line on gearbox the test port on top of the box and test pressure there first as it might just be a pressure switch fault and the difficult changing gear could be the gear stick turret needs rebuild often wear and fall a part. When you say its difficult to change gear is this when on the move ie say from 1 st to 2 nd and are you using the dump switch to change gear as this will drop gearbox clutch packs in to neutral whilst changing gear . memory says do you have pedal to the left of the dual brake pedals this is trans dump and also you will have the same switch on you loader lift lever does the same job.
Yes it had the pedal to the left which I'm not sure it works but it also has one on gear shift that is working but even when the forward reverse switch is in neutral it is hard to get in gear when you try it starts pulling machine forward like if the clutches are not fully disingaged but even if you shut machine off it still is somewhat difficult to get it in gear Thank you
I would say you have forward clutch breaking up or the solenoid sticking try disconnecting the solenoids and try again if it still does this then you have a fault in the friction material i would guess not allowing the clutch to disconnect try putting the machine up on its rear legs and run it they drag a bit but i guess yours will like to drive on .
How do you know it's the "torque convert" light.
It wont be a torque converter light as the switch on the gear box only does mainline gearbox pressure which should be about 9.7 bar - 12.8 bar at 1000 rpm and raise to 11.4 - 12.8 at 2000 rpm at 50 degrees or 11.4 -12.8 at 1000 rpm at 1000 rpm and 11.4 - 13.4 at 2000 rpm at 100 degrees. when you select a direction the pressure should drop and then rise a again and you will see this on the gauge .If the light comes on on tick over chance that the switch is faulty engine rpm to low or you have a charge pump issue but the gauge will indicate this.
Sorry I have been busy haven't had much time to play with it So the warning light that comes on is low transmission pressure only does it when it gets warm and low rpm maybe pump failing ? Which selonoids should I disconnect Did I need a special kind of gauge to test pressures or any special fittings from jcb
no special gauge as long it is for test hyd pressure if you had a 0 - 50 bar gauge you should be good the fitting on the test port is a strange one minimus fitting think its 5/8 not 100 % from memory but you could unscrew this fitting and I believe it will be either 1/4 bsp or 1/8 bsp that also may pose a problem depending on your local stores.
I have what I believe is the identical machine (7600 hrs) with a similar problem. The transmission pressure light is on most of the time but no problems with shifting. On rare cold occasions the light will go out on start up but will come back on shortly after start. I noticed a small drip when running the other day. Is it possible that the filter is in bypass? I don't have a manual and am new to this type of machine. Any advice would be welcome.
I can't help you with your problem but if you provide the serial number I can see if my book covers it and send you pics of any info you want Hopefully jeff will reply I'm still waiting on a fitting to do a pressure check
If its a transmission oil leak, find out where it is and take care of it,a loss of "pressure" will turn the light on.
Yes I agree. It's a drip and not a stream of fluid. Still lots of fluid on the stick.
I think the number is SLP214TCTE0444694. Any info on changing transmission fluid and electrical diagrams would be fantastic.
If that's you number yours is just a couple thousand newer than mine so everything should be the same it would be best to give me your email to send the pics or scans if I can of manual The neat thing I found out about the wiring in these every wire has a number on it every 2 inches then the manual has a key that tells you what it's for I think that is impressive but there is a ton of wiring on these machines So far I really like mine other than the little issues it has its great
My email is [email protected] . I certainly appreciate this info. Mine's been working fine as well but I just want to make sure that the oil pressure issue is addressed. There are a few "stray" wires on this one so the numbering should help a lot! Thanks again.
It will be most likely be tomorrow or Monday I'm at work now but I will get it to you as soon as I can
No problem at all.
Hi Guys If the light comes on on the transmission when running its two things either no oil pressure or at least low pressure and i guess poor performance from the gearbox (but make sure oil is good and not burnt when smelling it) ,or you have electrical issue or trans pressure switch fault common. To test electrical circuit for the trans switch ignition switch on and you should get 3 lights engine oil pressure ,transmission oil pressure , alternator charging with engine not running and all 3 should go out when running . On the transmission switch if you disconnect the switch it is located on top of the gearbox between bell housing and x member the switch on there on the top except the forward and reverse solenoids or powershift solenoid bank ,if you bridge the terminal with a small peice of wire so as to make contact you can test the circuit if it comes on when bridged the wiring is good and goes out when wire is removed. if you disconnect the switch and the light remains on this could the wiring loom near the top of the gearbox rubbed through to earth so a look see required ,if does not light up check fuses and also that the bulb is good. The other thing i would always do is stick a gauge on mainline pressure to make sure all is happy in the box. Hope it helped figure it out as this is quite a simple circuit. There is a pressure maintenance valve on the transmission in the valve chest on the gearbox alloy housing just a spring and a valve if these stick used to blow filer or put a pin hole in the filter,you could remove this valve and check it looks ok but doubtful if this is a fault. If you have a leak possible torque converter to charge pump seal and oil will drip from oblong rubber bung under bell housing or you have pinion seals leaking on 4wd output and the handbrake disc seal , valve chest gasket/o rings or could be the pressure switch its self.
Remember all earth wires are always a 600 wire so could be 601 and so on.
Thanks Jeff. The leak seems to be coming from at or above the filter so high on the left side of the machine. I'm going to replace the filter and will check the switch like you say. The curious thing is that on a cold start (ie close to zero C) the light will extinguish briefly and come back on within seconds of start. This only happens once in a while and only on first start of the day. The shifting and power of the machine seems fine. The fluid looks good and doesn't smell burnt. Where is the valve chest? And where would I connect a pressure gauge to check the pressure? Thanks for all this info it's a great help.
There is a screw on cap on top of the gearbox with a piece wire around the cover/cap this is mainline pressure I think it is a 5/8 minimus fitting but you could unscrew and fit your own as I believe its 1/9 bsp or 1/4 bsp in the housing and check pressure I have given details of pressure before in this post . The other place for a leak could be the torque converter cooler pipes onto gearbox I think its 1/2 bsp might be worth a look see. I would say you have a trans switch playing up .
I also sent to your email
If you look at dblaz18's picture, at the back of the tranny (near the bottom right of his pic) is where my oil pressure sensor was. The "test" port is also located next to it.
I greatly appreciate you taking the time to detail the steps in rebuilding the transmission. I’m compiling a list of parts and tools needed to complete the job. Can you recommend the appropriate size pair of snap ring pliers to remove the circlips. Thanks in advance. Nate