Hello.... starting to replace seals and wear pads on the stabilizing legs. Wondering if anyone actually knows if the bolt holding the pin that holds the foot plate on the bottom can be punched out...? I removed the nut and tried loosening the bolt but the head sheared off. I have used a good deal of force trying to punch it out but seemingly it is very stuck or actually has thread holding it in place. Does anyone know if once the nut is removed the bolt should be able to just slide in and out or does it require turning as it is threaded in place with the nut being used to lock it in.
My "guess" would be, if it had a nut on it, it "you" should be able to punch it out...don't forget, these foot plates take allot of force on them to hold the machine up. Try knocking it out where the head of the bolt broke off. Just a guess.
a pic would be of great help in this case.
Hello again, i happened to watch a guys video where he showed the many potential problems when doing the very thing im about to go through. His video didn't actually show him removing the bolt but i did send a message to him and he replied stating that yes once the nut is off the bolt should slide out.....? Given it is not seized in place. So thanks for the interest..... i will take that experience and continue to try to punch it out or drill it out...? I can imagine it might be high tensile, so i have appropriate drill bits.
Wow..... what a nightmare so far. After trying a number of different jigs and punches i had to resort to drilling out the bolt. This was a large engine valve so pretty hard..... but i broke. Then tried a normal punch but just hurt myself. So drill time which was going well till i got about 30mm in, all i can imagine was as i was drilling through 3 different pieces which may have been moving just enough to continually jam my 10mm drill bit. As i did not want the nightmare of having to remove a shattered bit inside a hole. So back to punching, even tried using a large jack hammer to hit the punch. More drilling but this time i used an 8.5mm bit, drilling and punch in turn, until... I thought that would be the easy part... started with a 30mm rod and my sledgehammer, then tried the jackhammer but nothing Luckily i had made myself a 50 tonne press.... and wow first try, i think i popped a seal as all the oil leaked out. Fortunately i had another jack to pop in but this time i decided to use heat, which i was trying to avoid. 2b continued
So one jack down.... 2nd jack but this time with heat When it finally moved.... bam what a bang, but each time it only moved about 5mm and each time it moved bam. Also had to keep the heat on until i had passed the halfway mark.... then i used shift ya b*****d and 50 tonnes. More effort required then i thought but the foot plate is off More to come
Even removing the screw in slides took its toll So i broke my favorite shifter, then i borrowed the biggest ratchet I'd ever used..... something broke internally.? So i bought an 800mm 1inch drive breaker bar, just to remove 2 of these Then i hooked a 1ton block and tackle to a post i happened to have. Pulled this out And then
Here is where im confused.... ive opened the ram and i dont know what the little steel pin is for or where it goes...? Is it somehow holding the nut on this end...? I have seen this nut with a pin screwed through it into the shaft and then covered with a circlip.....? Anyone know where this little pin goes...?
Wow... censorship for this
In my part's book for a 2cx, it's called a "dowel", if you remove the first seal, it should be under there.
Awesome.... thanks for the heads up
Don't you just love a challenge? Lol
Yes.... most definitely, life would be boring without it. If i had an under cover area maybe i would have enjoyed it more....? But im working in the mud, well its mud now and also oily. Slipped off the ladder once, slipped over once..... half the time it was stop and go with the rain so it was a little more painful then i would have liked. I did this today New seals on..... but i had one seal spare....? Not sure if thats a good or bad thing. Now one thing i had noticed was a little bit of wear on the ridged steel oil pipes, not sure what caused it...? May have been the compacted dirt that had built up inside the leg extension...? But whilst there was clearly some wear it did not look like it would leak. Now the smart thing to do would have been to hook the ram up and check for leaks but i never said i was smart. So i put it all back together, after a quick trip into town to find a suitable bolt to replace the one i drilled out...... feeling pretty good with myself and also a little eager to see how well i did. All i can say is ill be pulling it apart tomorrow.
Did you remove that nut on the end of the shaft, and slide the big cylinder nut/cap off to replace the seals on that?
Could the extra seal be a fancy wiper seal for the gland nut or an end stroke damper that fits in the bottom of the gland not? Not there to see what the dimensions of everything are.
Well this is what i found... after i whipped the ram down from all the oil, it was just fortunate that the rag cleaned off a little buildup of dirt in a tight area revealing After scrapping all the paint off.... it really didn't look like there was a crack..? It looked more like the pipe rusted a little around the weld and the paint blistered and cracked. I decided to fill the ram with compressed air and spray soapy water around everywhere it could leak and to my surprise NO bubbles...? Thinking it might be a bent shaft or maybe it didn't leak when i put it all back together....??? Well actually Noidea So i hopked up the ram and yep yep yep i struck oil.... but it didn't mean i was rich.? Next.
Can you connect the hoses to the cylinder without putting it inside the housing? But that crack does not look good in my opinion.
Yes thats exactly what i did, placed the ram along side the post..... just enough play with the hoses. The crack looks bad in the pic, but once all the paint was scraped off it looks perfectly fine. Couldn't get air to bubble through it, but i wouldn't have gone much higher then 20psi.
Most likely goes inside that big yellow outer nut.
Regarding the spare seal.... i did try to imagine where it could go, i replaced each old seal with the corresponding new one.... exact same shape similar colours bar one but the was no match for the yellow one left over. No matter where i thought i could put it....? I could tell that it would not stay in the same place and would just get pushed up and down the shaft depending....? All the seals i replaced had their own groove to sit them in, firmly holding them in place. Still a mystery to me...?
Did you replace this seal?
So my attempt to fix the crack, as i was not sure on the thickness of the cracked pipe....? I was reluctant to weld it, as i only have my old stick welder with me. All my other welders are in deep storage over an hour away. So i decided to silver braze it...... but i only had my lpg torch and even though its a big sucker...... all i managed to do was burn paint and smoke oil, just a waste of time and a mess. So welding time.... here we go Forgot to take a pic of my weld.... but it went ok..... not exactly to my liking as i was concerned about blowing a hole through the pipe not knowing its gage. Here it is painted..... sure it looks ****, first coat eas a heavy gal paint applied with a brush and as it is completely hidden i didn't care how it looked just wanted it thick. Then i sealed it with black enamel from a can.
Yes all seals replace..... just had that spare one with seemingly nowhere to put it..?
Yes.... pulled it all apart and replaced all the seals with identical ones except one was a different colour. But the same shape
Look at 5:52 in this video
Funny... i had watch that very video when i first started researching the repair. What i noticed were a number of differences with the ram i pulled out and the one in the video....? Even though it stated it was from a stabilizer leg, it was different to mine....? I can only assume the seal repair kit will suit various model changes...? Easier to add an extrs or redundant seal to the one kit then to have multiple kits for numerous variations with models...? I was a little more careful and delicate when i replaced mine, just saying.
Ok..... so the mystery of the spare seal. I called JCB and whilst initially the gentleman i spoke with could not definitively answer my query, he did call back after making a few inquiries himself..... and the mystery is solved. The seal kit is a universal kit made to suit a number of similar applications, he also said it is pretty obvious to sight the seals matching the old for the new
That is not uncommon for manufacturers or parts suppliers to add extra parts to make a kit fit different applications. Instead of 12 part numbers there is only 1. Charge a few bucks more for it. I have seen thin many times over the years in the automotive business. Not surprising in the heavy equipment world.
Hey all..... so far so good no more leaking from the stabilizing leg. Used the backhoe all day. Unrelated to the above, if there is anyone else who also has a jcb 3cx sm. I seem to have an issue with melting and or blowing the 60 amp fuse. Which is the blue one in the pic. Above it is a 40 and to the right are 50. I have brought a new housing but dont expect it will make a difference. It seems to melt when i use the lights and will generally blow if i have both front and back lights on at the same time. Any thoughts would be appreciated
Strange. You inspect the bulbs and wiring? May be a good time to switch them out for led!
All the lights seem to be in good order. I guess if i cant workout why...? Then that could be a good alternative. I have been thinking about placing an led on the backhoe arm, somewhere that would follow the bucket around. While the lights i have do a great job, i often need to dump the dirt outside the beam of light.
Blowing a 60 amp fuse? If it is not instantly blowing the fuse you do not have a short to ground. Your circuit is over loaded. The fact that it melted the holder tells me the circuit is running close to capacity. You need to reduce the load on that circuit. 60 Amps at 12 volt is 720 watts. Add up the bulb wattage that is on that circuit. You nay find someone replaced bulbs with higher wattage ones to get better lighting. Maybe there are additional lights that were not factory? LEDs would certainly reduce the load.
Thankyou for your very poignant reply... makes total sense and easily checked. Does seem like leds are a safer bet, before re wiring another relay.
One other thing. Is lighting the only thing on that circuit? Are all the lights stock? Did someone add extra lights? If there is something on that circuit besides lighting make sure it is not your root cause. For example as a fuel pump starts to go bad it may draw more current than normal. Same if the blower is on that circuit.