I've got a John Deere 1010 crawler/dozer that I picked up cheap from a friend because it stopped running a few months ago. The injection pump seemed to be the culprit so I pulled it apart and replaced a bad flex ring and all the seals that I got to along the way. Now it gets fuel but it over revs, runs for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. I'm not sure why the governor isn't working properly but I have a few theories. I know its possible that the governor weights shifted out of place during installation. Before I pull it apart again I thought I ask around. I appreciate any input.
Sounds like you pulled the pump from the shaft to replace the butterfly seals. Whenever you do that on a Roosamaster you have to pull the throttle lever to fuel throttle and wire tie it off there, if you don't you may drop the governor weights inside the pump. Not sure what's required to sort that out myself, pumpguysc can help you with that
YUP.. gotta start over.. Pull the pump, take the head out , fix the weights, reassemble, tie the throttle back & reinstall.. Don't forget to check the front pilot tube for grooves.. if its grooved & you don't/didn't replace it, your pizzin in the wind.. your gonna get fuel in the oil & you'll have to start ALL OVER AGAIN.. ontop of a 50.00 oil change..
Thanks I appreciate the help. I did find some grooves on the pilot tube that I didn't notice the first time
Where is the best place to get a new pilot tube?
P# 16320.. old one must be heated [hand torch] & pressed out & a new one, 2 part epoxied in.. & allowed to dry or put in oven at 350* for 1 hr.. Measure the protrusion of the old one BEFORE pressing out.. can be had from local fuel shop or online..
SORRY.. I jumped the gun.. could be & looks like it is>> 16323 Post the pump # to be absolutely SURE..
the model number is DBGVC429-3AJ I'm going to measure, heat and press it tomorrow. I've got loctite 2 part epoxy that I've used on parts exposed to diesel before and it seemed to hold up well.
YUP.. P#>16323
Pump service guy I also need a pilot tube part #,it's for a JDB331AL2405,1707222,AR-49899, jd 350B crawler, many thanks, from Canada, should I get a seal kit, I have the balloon seals?
BCCAT> Your pilot tube is a 16320.. & yes, get a kit if your taking the pump apart.. Kit # 24371.. You'll also need a new mounting oring that doesn't come in the kit..> 16371.. Good luck to both you guys.. TPG
Do I need to take the pump apart to change the pilot tube ? And do I need any special tooling to do it, looks like I need a special Bristol wrench, and do i replace any other parts while I am in there. Where is the best to get these parts Sorry for all the questions , I am fixing this pump for a friend , I really appreciate all the help
This is going to sound "harsh" but its just a dose of reality.. HELPING implies, you might know what your doing.. but in reality you haven't a clue.. I THINK you may be MILES AHEAD if you let someone else do it.. BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN if you don't know what your doing.. besides loosing a friend.. you might just blow-up his/her machine.. I THINK you should "bow-out" of this project.. That being said>> There is no BEST PLACE to get the parts, other than online or your local fuel shop.. IF buying online, MAKE SURE they ship up North.. I see some people use US Diesel?? I deal w/ the factory so I cant tell you anything about USD.. You can get around the Bristol wrench by using a T-45 torx bit.. There are about $160.00 on up, worth of parts that need to be changed in a proper rebuild.. G kit, metering valve, mv shim, delivery valve, dv spring, pilot tube, front mounting oring, transfer pump liner, tp blades, standard or oversize?., return connector, pivot shaft if worn.. electric solenoid if cracked.. & OF COURSE the dreaded FLEX RING.. & the list goes on & on..... There are manuals you can buy online.. definitely couldn't hurt.. I haven't watched any "videos" on a roosa master rebuild online so I cant comment on those either.. I take that back.. I did watch one & "thought" it was a joke.. REALLY I thought someone had put it up as a "spoof".. come to find out this guy was filming as he was TRYING to rebuild his pump & put it out there for the WORLD to see !!!!! I had to write him & tell him what he was doing wrong & how to do it right & he actually mentions me in several of his "series".. it was VERY PAINFUL to watch.. I think he had/has 113 sessions.. from start to finish.. IF your searching for it.. I think it was an Oliver SUPER 77.. I forget the guys name.. Anyway.. good luck w/ your project..
Pumpguysc, I know what you are saying and I respect that and your knowledge & experience,I have been a certified heavy duty mechanic ,machinist for over 50 yrs, have rebuilt cummins, cat, GmbH Bosch,etc, rebuilt lots of gov etc ,have worked in injection shop in my apprenticeship , just never worked on rosa master pumps that much, I just wanted to know what's involved before I make a decision , this tractor has only 1800 hrs on it, I take my work seriously and I have a clue Ken
bccat we have similar experience but let me share this. I had a guy working for me with injection pump experience. Piece of cake I can fix this. Started it up and he left. When I got there I knocked the fuel supply line off. When I turned around he was loading his tool box. It trashed the block and tachometer. Bought a used engine and rebuilt it, owner was my friend. Not saying you are not a capable man but if the pump shop messes up it runs away on the stand. How much responsibility will you accept in order to help a friend?
Ten wheeler, I agree with you 100%, should of explained myself a little better, fuel dilution in engine oil, changed lift pump,no change, suspect mushroom seals, if pilot tube needs replacing I will get an injection shop to do it for sure, I just wanted to know what's involved thats all, love the work,never to old to learn, that's what it keeps me going. Do not want to be a couch potato Ken
It sounds as if you have enough experience w/ wrenches to tackle the project but just need some guidance.. I TAKE BACK EVERYTHING I said.. I'm so used to kids sitting at the kitchen table trying to do it w/ a hammer & screwdriver that I get a little "testy" at times.. & end up writing a friggin rebuild manual for the next 10 days while they "try".. Yes the pump has to come apart to change the pilot tube.. THERE IS a special tool to do it w/o taking the pump apart but its a dealer only item & not for sale on the open market.. Just get a manual online.. It'll walk you thru the procedure.. They're about 25.-35.00 & you can resell it when your done.. I can be reached off the forum by putting> at a o l dot com after my screen name.. I'll be happy to answer your questions if I can.. You being up North doesn't help matters much as far as parts go.. all my contacts are down here.. Very sorry if I offended you.. TPG
One of the easiest forms of miscommunication on the internet. We all have to keep in mind we're all on opposite sides of a computer screen and know little or nothing about the person on the other side. Good to see that kink got worked out here in a civil and respectful manner. Keep up the good work guys.
Good evening,TPG, Every things good, No worries, haven't taken pump off yet, so I don,t know how bad the tube is, if it is grooved,I will take it to a injection shop,as he needs the machine soon. I,will certainly give you a shout if I have problems.Thank you for the help,really appreciate it. Take care. Ken
IF/WHEN you remove the pump.. its best to time it BEFORE pulling it off.. Makes life SO MUCH EASIER when you get it back.. Shut off the fuel at the tank or pinch any rubber line going to the injection pump to stop the fuel flow.. Remove the small side cover on the pump, 2 flat head screws.. & let the fuel drain.. Rotate the engine over in the DIRECTION OF NORMAL ENGINE ROTATION & line up the 2 lines in the window & stop.. One is stationary & the other will come around to meet it..NOW pull the pump.. Good luck & happy tractoring.. TPG