Hey all, Removing some cylinders for re-packing ( taking them to a shop) and my swing cylinders are next up. On the top and bottom on both cylinders, are plates that hold( press) the tapered sleeves and thus the pins tight. Of course the plate removal was a breeze.... figured the sleeves would follow...? not to be. The top of the pin ( my assumption on that) has a threaded hole. Do I set up a puller using that to 'tempt' that sleeve up and out? pics..... Thanks a bunch....
To clarify.... this is what I believe is called a trunnion mount(?). Swing cylinder is positioned horizontal and pivots about the vertical pins ( top and bottom). I have some pipe stock that is just a hair larger diameter than the tapered sleeve with the slot shown in the pics. Plan to try running a bolt thru some plate on top of a short piece of that pipe into the threaded section shown and crank.. whilst maybe giving the pipe some raps. I would think the pin would be able to move upwards.... freeing the sleeve? Plan to check that in the next couple days.........
Just pull the head and leave the barrel on the machine
That was my first thought..... but never have done that ( on a cylinder) might be above my pay grade!?. Anyway, figured this was something I could handle.... we'll see. ... might end up doing just that.
Agree with Dave. I think it'd be the same amount of work just to pull the rod out. You can still take it to a shop or give it shot. Not sure how the B series cylinders compare. HeavyEquipmentForums
Usually (except when I need to one next? lol) you can shock those loose with a good bronze drift and a few good whacks with a one handed BFH. Or make a puller setup. But yeah, unless there's obvious damage to the barrel after removing the rod/gland/piston, leave them in their happy place.
Thanks guys..... dumb me .... RTFM!! I spent some time goin thru my TM1158..... and there it was. The procedure for pulling those trunnion pins....... which is the set-up I was goin with. Pulled one of the top pins yesterday... needed some persuasion as we cranked on the puller bolt, but out(up) it came. Then the bottom came out almost on it's own. The other side has some hoses above it in the way so I need to cut a shorter section of pipe for that side. Will pull that side tomorrow. Then the swing cylinders, the loader cylinders and the steering cylinder are up for repacking. I'll need to come up with a new "rust preventative and dust control system" once the weeping is over!
Thanks,im restoring a 94 310b thats been around the coast it's whole life, and i've already made a puller with the pipe and bolt method but it would'nt budge,thought I was missing a hidden set screw or it is rusted,i'm going back with a little more persuasion!
DAVE IS CORRECT!
I was able to pull 3 out of the 4 pins..... but the last was no go. Tried all but heat... Pulled one cylinder out and on the other just pulled the rod and left the barrel on the machine. Found that the change in seal kits ( based on serial no. of the hoe) went with a change in the rod/barrel set up. Early serial no's ( look at JDParts) had the internal snap ring. My setup.. ( #735***) had the one piece gland, male threaded into the female barrel.... no external 'nut'.
... and welcome Darrell..... !! I needed to repack my cylinders, and I was leery of pulling rods, so I was removing and transporting them to the shop doing my work. If all your removing for is the seal job, then I would leave them on and pull rods..... I think the seal/barrel change starts around #700000 or so ( that's the hoe serial no. not the machine/engine) My barrel type was a breeze to pull. It was neat to see how that trunion set-up worked though.. The pin I could not pull was a bottom one. Pain working on your back/side... though the other side damn near fell off after pulling the top. One thing.... the bushings on the cylinder that the pins slide into were found to be in good shape, which, considering the age, is a good thing.