Hi, My 310c is making a kind of rattling/grinding type noise in front of engine and I poked around and found the v-belt pulley on the water pump that fan hub is attached to is wobbling around. Does this indicate that I need to change water pump, or is fan hub on a separate piece? No coolant leaking. Thanks
If the mounting bolts on the fan are tight it is a failed bearing in the water pump. A worse case scenario would be the fan hitting the radiator if you delay repairing it soon.
The bolts appear to be tight, yes, the fan thru the rad would make me sad, thanks, I best get on that. Doesn't look like water pump is too bad to get at.
I've been looking online a bit, it appears there is a rebuild kit available for that water pump?
You will need to remove your water pump, disassemble, and inspect to make sure a rebuild kit is feasible. Sometimes the pump housing will be destroyed.
You will need access to a press to disassemble/assemble the pump. Also take great care on how the pump is supported when pressing it apart. I have seen too many "new" techs make that mistake and blow the housing apart.
Ok, thanks guys, hope to maybe get started on it today
Well, I got it all apart today, I think pump is toast, impeller wearing on inside of housing. Trying to post pic of it, no luck yet. That hub is really loose!! Guess I'm looking for new pump
Impeller is pretty worn, what do you guys think?
Way past time for a new pump.
Manual refers to low flow and high flow water pumps, seems to have something to do with air conditioning. I don't think my machine ever had air. But I think it looks like the high flow pump, can anyone confirm this?
I don't think there is a need to worry about the flow rate. Those are the John Deere part numbers cast on the housing. They are readily available from vendors on the internet. Here is a link to a reman. Here is a link to a well known salvage yard that re-manufactures a lot of equipment related parts. I have bought used parts from them. https://www.farmlandtractor.com/i-123526-r90784-for-john-deere-water-pump-remanufactured.html
If you want to try putting a rebuild kit in, that wear isn't going to affect the performance one bit. Millions of cars running every day with chinchy sheet metal or plastic impellers that are way smaller and way more clearance than that.
Regarding the flow rate, I'm just wondering if either one will bolt on to my engine ok. With the old one in it was not showing any signs of running hot. Pre-covid I regularly ordered stuff out of the US, just a short drive to the border to pick up. Can still get stuff I guess, but some approved business has to go pick it up, I haven't done that yet, so not sure how much cost/hassle is involved. Haven't found anything online on Canadian side yet, we'll see I guess.
Thanks, but isn't that a seal where you circled?
Nope. That is a single sealed bearing held in by a press fit. The other style is 2 separate ball bearings that you have to pack with grease and are held in with a snap ring which then is covered by a lip seal.
Oh, ok I get it!! That makes it clearer for me, Thanks a lot!!
A shop down the road is bringing in a pump for me, I won't get a chance to work on it for a couple weeks though, I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks everyone!!!
So my wife picked up the pump the other day, she sent me a pic, it looks like the some assembly is required. Is this because the pulley has to be pressed on to a certain spec, depending on your particular engine? I'm still away at work, I'm sure what ever I need to know is in the service manuals, but I'm not there to check. Thanks.
It should have come with a pulley. Yes, there is a particular dimension to press the pulley to based on application. And good luck finding that spec for a 310C. I have always measured the old pulley's dimension before disassembly. For the procedure on pressing the pulley you need the manual CTM4. The measurement will be off due the bad bearing. If you give me the dimension you measure I might be able to tell you what dimension it should be pressed on too.
Ok, thanks, one of my manuals shows how to press it all apart and back together, I don't recall seeing a spec though. What dimension are you referring to? I suppose you could try to measure from mounting surface of pump on the engine block to the crank pulley and figure it out from there? I will be home in a few days and will have a look. Yes it did come with a new pulley. I guess measuring it before pulling pump apart would have been the wise thing to do, owell, maybe next time.
Awesome info. MG2361 ! Many people don't realize how easy it is to destroy water pump parts by improperly supporting the shaft when pressing them together.
Thanks mg2361, too bad I skipped that step haha. I wonder if Deere would have that info using my engine serial number? Thanks again, lots of great help here!!
I got home yesterday and had a look at new pump. It did not come with a new pulley, it is a hub with 2 sets of threaded holes and it would still need to be pressed on. Pump is completely assembled, I don't really get that, as it needs to be apart to press pulley (or the provided hub) on correct? It did come with gaskets however, I guess to account for taking apart to press on hub or pulley. Guess I will have to use my old pulley.
Pictures? Plate #12 above needs to be removed to press the pulley on.
There is the new hub, looks to me like it is intended for a bolt on pulley. I'll have to take new pump apart to press old pulley on, don't know why they would assemble it without pulley or hub pressed on.
when you press on your pulley don't press on the impeller press on the shaft. Bob
If you can't find a dimension could the pulley be pressed on (lightly) and then the water pump temporarily installed to see if the belt runs straight? Maybe using a straight edge?
I'm going to use a straight edge off the crank pulley and get a measurement to pump mount surface on engine block, should be able to figure it out from there I reckon. Its got a pair of V-belts, pretty forgiving, I ran it way too long with the bad bearing with no issues, and the belts were out by a mile hahahaha.
So I looked a little more in my manual (CTM4) and found the spec for water pump pulley to face of pump housing, it is 6.40" On the cover, that manual says it is for 4239 engines (among others) the tag on my engine says 4039DT003 On page 01-10 in manual CTM4 it lists 310C engine as being T04239DT003 Is this the wrong manual for my machine? Thanks
I found that spec in manual CTM4 page 25-4
I did some measuring off the crank pulley and calculating today and came up with a number 1.2mm different than the spec in the manual, so I'm confident I have the right spec.
That is the correct manual for your engine. Yep, there it is. My manual is in PDF form so it is a pain to navigate. I always use the metric system because it is more accurate so 6.4" would be 162.5mm. That rings a bell .
Got machine all back together and running today, everything seems fine. The only thing I couldn't do was bleed the air out of the head as the manual cautions you to do. I tried to take the temp sensor at back of head out as they recommend to get all the air out. It was very tight and I didn't want to break it off. So I parked machine with front end lifted up in air a few feet to hopefully get any air in head to rise to the front of engine and out. Tried to get pipe plug out of thermostat housing, but this was very tight too. (back in the day I would have just broke everything, so I'm getting better) Thanks to all you guys, especially mg2361!!!! You guys are the best!!