So my JD 310D wont go into to forward or reverse, after sitting for about 2 months. I drained the main hydraulic tank, to change out the starter which was intermittent (moving that main hyd hose makes access to the bottom starter bolt easier)put the rebuilt starter back in, serviced the hydraulic reservoir, and boom- it still wont start. Thats the least of my problems now. After shorting out the two solenoid terminals she started- but now, she wont go into forward or reverse. Nothing- not even a little bump either way. Checked the revwrser dipstick, plenty of fluid, if anything its over-serviced. Never had an issue before. Started crawling around underneath, found a connector with bare wires going to a solenoid on the reverser. I dont know if the insulation had degraded, or a rat chewed on them, but they were bare, going into the connector. My parts manual shows this as the “Reverser dump solenoid”. (#10 in the pic) I tried to strip back the wires to make a splice/repair but that heavy metal braid wont let me. Im leery of pulling this “Reverser Dump Solenoid” and opening yet another can o worms, if any dirt gets in there. I guess i really dont have much choice, that metal braid insulation is not letting me get at the wire so I guess Ingotta pull it to make a splice. Any ideas?
Welcome to HEF Fred ! Serial number? You can just pull the clutch cutout solenoid coil off the the stem of the clutch cutout valve. Then you need not worry about dirt entry. With that being said if you are not pushing your clutch cutout button then there should be no voltage to the solenoid so bare wires wouldn't matter. Make sure the switch in your loader lever and the one in your shifter are good. I have seen many switches fail in the engaged position causing lose of transmission function. Start there since it a simple check.
Thanks for the tip! So, that “Dump Solenoid” ( you call it clutch cutout solenoid) only comes into play when the shifter button on the transmission is pushed, or the loader lever button is pushed. If thats the case, why is the reverser seem dead? Backhoe wont move forward, or backwards- nothing. A month ago when I parked it/drained hydraulic system it was fine. Where so I start, to resolve this?
Were the bare wires touching each other? If not you could have a bad clutch cutout switch sending voltage to the solenoid causing total loss of transmission control.
“Clutch cutout switch” -what is that? The only switches I know of are 1) On the transmission lever, to switch gears, and 2) On the loader/bucket lever. The way I understand it (correct me if Im wrong) is when either switch is depressed, it energizes the dump solenoid, and all fluid in the reverser is bypassed. If this solenoid’s connection was pulled, it should not affect the operation of the reverser. (Unless the valve is stuck) I pulled both the dump solenoid and the FNR solenoid off, the wires just look sketchy. They were not eaten by a rodent, but the insulation is just crumbling. Im going to re-isulate them with heat shrink. Before i pulled the FNR double solenoid, I actuated the F/R lever a few times, it sounded like it was energizing. I’m at a loss to understand exactly how the solenoids actuate the valve the are associated with. Does it rotate the shaft? Pull it up or down? Attached are pics of the solenoids I took out. The bare wires are on the dump valve solenoid.
With the wires to the Dump solenoid disconnected (you call it clutch cutout solenoid) the solenoid is our of the loop, and should not affect Reverser operation, as I understand it. Unless the valve (shaft, the solenoid mounts on) is stuck. I tried moving it, actuating it. Does it rotate? Move up and down? How dowa this solenoid actuate it? What physical motion happens with that shaft? Seems i should be able to move it by hand, the FNR shaft as well. But first I have to know what way to “persuade” it.
The solenoids are held down by a bolt at the top, to the shaft of the valve. Its a mystery to me how the solenoids effect any action on that shaft.
Now when I try to wire the clutch cutout solenoid, or dump solenoid, back up, which wire goes where? They were not even color coded? Guess i got a 50/50 shot of wiring it back up correctly
Those switches are the clutch cutout (dump) switches. The valve inside the stem moves with magnetic force. The only way to determine if the valve is working correctly is to perform pressure checks.
Thanx for explaining MG.....it kinda makes sense now. That visible shaft on the outside does not move, all the action is internally, inside that shaft. Externally, I have no way of knowing if the internals of that dump valve are working, or if it’s stuck in the “bypass” position. Im going to repair the wiring with heat shrink, and reinstall the solenoids. After reading a number of posts on here, about the Reverser, it seems guys who have a Reverser on the way out notice a degradation coming...ie weak in higher gears, slipping, only going into Reverse, etc. I had none of this. It just quit cold- after sitting a month and me draining the main hydraulic system. How does the Reverser build its pressure? How/where do I perform this pressure check? That is the next step I suppose. Should I drop that Reverser pan and change the fluid? I was was planning on doing that on both backhoes anyhow, but if the reverser needs to come out, makes no sense to do it now.
Well, after delving into this manual, from what I read, that “Dump solenoid” must be hooked up, and have power. As the book states “When the clutch cut-off solenoid is de-energized, element oil flow is blocked”. It’s a continuous duty solenoid, that must have power, constantly energized. It has to be connected. Hitting the switch on the loader lever or transmission shift lever does not power the solenoid, it depowers it. And you are correct, the manual refers to it as the “clutch cutoff solenoid”. The parts manual calls it a “Dump solenoid”. Obviously the guys who wrote these manuals were in different rooms. So, how do I determine polarity on the solenoid when I wire it back to the plug? I have to assume it matters.
Does JD even still sell these solenoids?
Got my answer, from the JD dealer. Holy moly....I thought my CAT dealer in Atlanta was bad. They want 483.80$ for the solenoid coil, 595.56$ for the solenoid valve, and 106.03$ for the seal kit. I paid 10K for the whole machine. Anybody got a link to a used parts dealer?
My apologies. You are correct. When I looked at the schematic (more like glanced at it) I did not pay attention to the switch symbol indicating that it is a normally closed switch. It shouldn't matter. All that information is in the book you have. Theory in section 9020-05. Testing in section 9020-25.
Well, after heat shrinking all the wires, some re-spliced, i installed the solenoids. The FNR dual solenoid clicks as it’s supposed to, pulled the plug off, and checked for power moving the F/R lever next to the wheel, all seems correct. The Dump/Clutch cutoff solenoid is not working. Pulled apart the connector- no power to it. Now what? I know power comes thru the two switches, one on the gearshift, the other on the bucket lever.....which one is first? Does it go thru the parking brake as well? Im about done here, this thing is wearing me out
Loader lever first, then the gear shifter. Fuse good?
Checked all the fuses, all are good. Pulled out my manual, a really slick, black JD binder that I bought on Fleabay when I first acquired this machine. It is actually a collection of different manuals/booklets, all put together in this nice fancy black binder. The troubleshooting chart for clutch disconnect solenoid referred me to Group 9015-15. Guess what? The Group 9015 manual is missing. I can’t believe it.
Just trying to reason this out in my head, the circuit must come from the fusebox to loader lever switch first, you say? Makes sense, its right next to the fusebox.
I did not see a fuse for the “clutch disconnect”. I don’t have the Group 9015 manual, sadly... Which circuit powers that clutch disconnect solenoid? There is a 10A fuse for FNR/Park brake fuse. It’s good, as I have power to the FNR solenoid. I do see a relay “Neutl” or Neutral relay...no idea what that’s for. I guess at this point I’ll run a hot circuit straight to the clutch cutout solenoid just to make sure its not a reverser hydraulic issue but I think its a power problem to the solenoid.
Hi, it sounds like you, and I are having like issues with our machine. I will go get my manual and see if I have that section. One question, if you have your floor access panel open, does your parking brake linkage move when you put your parking brake switch off, and one?
Hmmm....I don’t know. I’ll check today. Do I have to pull the seat to get the floor access panel open? You’re thinking the power for the clutch disconnect relay is coming thru the park brake circuit?
Don't have to pull sea,t just floor mat. Mines is a 16x16 square in floor. 2 bolts on one side and tabs on the other. My backhoe is doing the same thing, but more intermittingly. When it is bothering, the parking brake does not release. I am not sure of the path of power to clutch disconnect, trying to figure it out myself.
Ok, got it. But with the parking brake on, if you move the FNR lever, does it “jump” a little, like the reverser is engaging to move? I understand with the parking brake on it won’t move but if it shudders a bit, it would seem the clutch disconnect/dump solenoid is at least energized.
I do have the part of manual you are looking for. Disclaimer this is for a 410D, and I have seen a few differences. Backwards starting at clutch disconnect, gear shift lever first, loader lever ,parking brake switch, parking brake latching relay, forward/reverse lever. This lever gets its power from FNR/park brake fuse. In the theory of operation, it does also mention a reverser pressure switch. I will upload some pics, as soon as I can get them to transfer from my phone.
Yes mine will jump a bit also. Here are the page from manual. Trouble shooting is my weakness, unfortunately I am more of a parts changer. Sorry, may have duplicated some pages, and not sure of order.
The power for the clutch cutout comes through that fuse, through the park brake switch via the park brake latching relay. If your park brake is not working electrically then the cutout circuit will not either.
Well damn, I wish I had that manual. Although his disclaimer says it’s for 410D the switch looks identical. Using his continuity check, on both tests, switch on/off, there is no continuity off pin 6 (Switch off, 6&2-no continuity) (Switch on, 6&8- no continuity) how does that damn switch come out now?
Do you have that diagnostic manual for the 310D MG? Is it the same test for the 310D? Sure will be sweet if it’s just a matter of changing out that switch
I am away from the machine but plan to get it back tomorrow. I will check the switch. They both use the same switch. I ordered one yesterday,$63 but regular stock order through my ag dealer. Thank you for the help, please let me know if the switch fixes your machine. I think this is the cheapest switch in this circuit.
310D and 410D uses the same park brake setup and the schematics for that circuit are the same. The procedure says to test for continuity at 6 & 2 with the switch on and 6 & 8 with the switch off.
Are we looking at the same troubleshooting page? The one he posted clearly says 6&2 with the switch off, 6&8 with the switch on. I sure hope Im reading this right, I already ordered the switch.
I am in the 310D Operation and Test manual TM1496. I also checked the 410D O&T manual TM1512 and it states the same thing. The only issue with paper manuals is if there is an update you don't know it. Looking at the schematic of the switch also confirmed what posts will have continuity in which switch position.
So looking at this troubleshooting picture, would you agree with the switch OFF there should be continuity between pins 6&2?
Bueller? Anyone?
According to that page yes, but my manual is newer and the schematic also contradicts that page.
Great. And I already ordered the switch. WTH...
Can you post your page?
I don’t see a schematic being involved. This is a simple continuity check of a switch. If this diagram is wrong, I’ll be calling JD
I apologize in advance if I am crowding your post, new to posting on forums. I am just hoping between the 2 threads something will come through. I used my hoe for 30 minutes to spread some gravel, and it starting not wanting to move. I put my brand new switch in, and it did not change anything. Fred rosenburg, when you flip your parking brake switch on, does the part of the light that has a light in it light up?
Nope, no light
I think... I don’t remember. No JD dealer in the southeast has that silly switch, I’m going to Chicago on Monday and have a dealer who is sending me one. If this doesn’t work I’m not sure what to do next.
Brokentractor.com had some inexpensive solenoids for me
Solenoids are good. No power to the clutch cutoff solenoid is my issue. That’s why when my parking brake switch did not pass the continuity test, I was happy as I figured I had solved the issue. I won’t know till I install the switch
So Im pretty sure now my switch is good. Actually, I’m not sure of anything, other than my backhoe doesnt work. I have two references for a continuity check for the PB switch that directly contradict each other. The first one calls for continuity check between pins 6&2, the second one between 6&8. (PB switch off) They directly contradict each other. Anyone know why this would be? It appears I have bought a 95$ switch for nothing. What a nightmare. Attached are the two contradicting troubleshooting references for your enjoyment. Thanks John Deere
Have you looked to see if your parking brake linkage is moving? You said it shutters, is it possible it is engaging, but it cant overcome parking brake stuck on? You can easily manually disable the parking brake with a 3/4 socket and ratchet. At least on my 410d you can. It works like a brake can on a truck with air brakes, only uses hydraulics, and electricity.
Found the problem...that circuit for the clutch disconnect relay goes thru the starter solenoid I guess. I’d kill for an electrical schematic. I really like this JD but CAT manuals are more detailed.
was it a bad wire, or was the solenoid bad?
Fred Rosenberg....we need more info. ?!! What was the problem and how did you fix it?!
Way toooo often members get a lot of help here and never come back to explain the outcome of their problem. That sure as h## doesn't help someone with a similar problem. Fred has not logged in since last December. I doubt that he will read this.
I too have a 1995 John Deere 310d. And my emergency brake switch when switched on disconnects the clutch keeping you from traveling forward or in reverse.
By design, when the park brake is switched ON power is disconnected from the park brake solenoid and the reverser clutch cut off solenoid. See theory of operation screenshot below. You have a machine serial number ? I can possibly post a wiring schematic. .
Will low hydraulic fluid keep the reverser from engaging?
Does low hydraulic fluid level effect the clutch cutout?