It seems to make decent fuel pressure, I can hear fuel solenoid click when key is turned on and off but am wondering if fuel shut off solenoid could still be the issue or if that is unlikely. I removed the two bolts on solenoid base, but I can't remove it yet. Is there a pin on the inside that needs to come out for removal? serial number T00320A105380
Have you checked the fuse panel for a blown fuse yet?
Yes, fuses are good
Welcome to HEF hoedown ! When you key on, you hear the solenoid click, then do you hear it click again when cranking, or is it staying powered up? When cranking, is there any smoke? How did you determine this?
I don't hear a second click when it is cranking, so I think it is staying powered up. No smoke while cranking. I put a 30 psi pressure gauge inline just ahead of the fuel filter. With return line pinched off it will slowly build to 30 psi while cranking. Return check valve should replaced because without pinching return pressure doesn't hold, but I feel with the line pinched it should start if that was my only issue. Thanks mg
Yes, usually pinching the line will get it to smoke at the very least. So, it didn't even sound like it was trying to start? I would still replace the check valve. Did you check the voltage at the shutoff solenoid to be sure it is remaining powered up during cranking?
That's correct didn't sound like it was even trying to start. I will check voltage on shutoff solenoid to make sure it is staying powered up. It will be a few days before I get back to work on it. Hopefully I find no power while cranking. If not would you suggest pulling fuel solenoid off? Thanks
What I meant to say was if fuel solenoid is staying powered up while cranking like it is suppose to would you suggest pulling it off?
Not yet. If it remains powered up, first thing I would suggest is backing the screw out on the little cover on the front of the engine's timing gear cover (under the shutoff solenoid) all the way out (count the turns so it can be returned). Then see if it tries to start, smoke or even start up.
That engine sucks IMO. If I were you, I'd get it running and take it straight to an auction.
OK, I backed that screw out and it fired right up. Now I am curious what that screw actually does. I did not turn it back to its original place yet, as it's not the easiest to get at, so I'm not sure if I should expect it to run if it gets put back in place. Can you educate me a bit more about this, mg? Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge about this with me and everyone else on this forum.
If it started with it backed out, then the rack magnet on the end of that screw most likely became dislodged and is jammed between the screw and the fuel rack lever, preventing the fuel from being turned on. That can be confirmed by removing that little cover. Turn on the fuel solenoid, either by keying on or hot wiring it. Then measure the rack travel (it is a little difficult to see in there but can be done). It has to be a minimum of 21.5 mm. Yours will most likely be something much less. The timing cover has to come off to make that repair. And that involves engine removal because the pan has to come off first.
If it works good with the screw backed out can I just run it as is long term, or will that cause a problem?
You will probably discover that the engine will lack power under load. If that magnet comes out further it could give some more headaches, so I wouldn't run it long term. If it falls into the gear train .?? Try it if you want.
MG schooled me on this problem a few years ago as I was unfamiliar with this type engine. I have to tell you that I have seen a ton of engines over the years and rebuilt most of them. This engine, to me, is the worst, most Mickey Mouse, PITA excuse for a power plant as I have ever seen. The engineering team that designed that catastrophe should have been hung at the gallows. Believe it or not, this is me being nice in my description.
Vetech, that's not what I want to hear, but sometimes the truth hurts. It's my son in laws unit that I was just trying to get back running for him, so I will pass on the good news and he will have to decide what he wants to do. Thanks for the heads up.
The new screw has an improved adhesive holding the magnet, so repairing should be a permanent fix. I have yet to see the new ones fail.
mg with that small cover off would a person be able to try to reattach the magnet with some good adhesive or is it out of reach and sight? This I would do with rad removed. I am trying to avoid having to pull the motor out.
You will only be able to see with a borescope.
OK. Thanks for all your help and the pics to clear things up for me.
Where is this screw do you remove the fuel shut off solenoid?
Welcome to HEF Wisconsin ! Be aware that the screw will not come out of the cover when backed out. It will eventually hit the inside and stop. See the second and third pictures of post #19.
Just came across this thread. If this is a common problem seems like there should be a recall. A glued on magnet to control the fuel... what were they thinking? Oh I know, bring it to the JD dealer because it's too big of a job for most people to do by themselves. Not bashing JD in general but they are main defendends in the right to repair lawsuits. This just seems like a very poor design.
And this is why they no longer make that engine.
I'd bet there are a lot of owners wishing they would have bought a different model skid steer. Still think JD should be retrofitting the improved version as a good will gesture if nothing else.