Hi everyone, first post here. I live in Seacoast New Hampshire for what it’s worth. I picked up a JD 410C around April of this year. It needs a bit of TLC to say the least. It currently has an intermittent starting issue which I believe is the starter solenoid as I can jump it and get it to run. My issue right now is that the machine will start and run for about 8 and 1/2 minutes and then it will shut down. Initially, I thought I had a fueling issue as the machine would want to die earlier than 8 and 1/2 minutes by using 3 hydraulic movements. I would save the machine from stalling out by only doing 1 or 2 movements at a time, but always at 8 and 1/2 minutes the machine would shut down. I assumed it was the standyne pump issue where some people have said to knock the glass ball from the check valve coming off the pump to buy some time. I pulled the check valve to find no debris stuck where the glass ball was. Everything looked fine while inspecting. It then dawned on me: the smaller line coming off the water pump is plugged with a bolt. (Photo 1) I’m now having to go through the cooling system and need some assistance. There’s another line that I believe has been cut and only one end plugged with a bolt.(Photo 2) wondering if that’s missing anything or if it was simply cut. Can anyone with a 410C send some photos of the routing on those hoses? Alternatively, maybe there’s a suitable schematic out there someone can send my way? It would be greatly appreciated. I do have the Technical Manual (TM-1469) for this backhoe in digital format to reference. I am also looking for some wiring diagrams that don’t seem to be listed in the Technical Manual. Sure there are black and white photos and whatnot but I am looking for something I can reference to ensure the alternator is wired correctly. It’s definitely not as of now. (Photo 3) If anyone needs clarification, I’ll do my best. Thanks in advance.
In photo #1 it looks like the coolant valve for the cab heater has the stem twisted off. Most likely in the open position. Here is a link to the---> Parts Book
Those are coolant lines for the heater, they won't have anything to do with running or not as long as they're not leaking enough to lock up the engine from overheating. The glass ball is very difficult to see, you can check by blowing air through the valve, or brake cleaner. Another likely issue is the pickup screen in the tank, and/or a cracked suction hose between the tank and lift pump. Since it sounds regular, and you mention an electrical starting issue, it could be a weak relay also, check the voltage at the injector pump after it dies. Or run a jumper to see if it still dies the same. After it dies, you can also use the primer pump lever to see if it's sucking a vacuum, pumping air, or all pumped up, by the feel of the lever, if you know the lever retracts the diaphragm, and the diaphragm pushes the fuel out with spring pressure, so the diaphragm will stay retracted if the fuel pressure is high enough, so only the light handle spring will be felt.
Screenshot of the charging system schematic from Operation and Test manual TM1468 .
You have the main alternator wire hooked up correctly, right? does the alternator charge? does the tachometer work? If it charges then you have the excite hooked up correct. The tachometer wire will go to a "W" terminal, that will read about 20V AC when the alternator is charging.
I just fixed an old 400? 410 for a friend with the exact problem. I had replaced the filter(very dirty), check valve and supply screen in injector pump were clean. If you let sit for an hour or so after stalling, it would start up.I pulled the primer pump and discovered crude in the pump. Bought a new one 60 bucks from Jd and It runs great now. This was about two weeks ago, so that price should be good. Beware of look a likes on Amazon and ebay, the lines are reversed on the pump on many, you could make it work but a lot of effort with steel lines without kinking. Jd had two choices, this was the cheaper approved clone that they carried. I timed it for stall and I don't remember the exact time but going from memory it was close to 8 minutes and it was repeatable.
Sounds like two problems. I had a 410C with the quitting problem. It was a recurring blockage of the check valve in the return line. If it can't get rid of fuel, it can't get more in. I feel like they called it the flex ring in the Stanadyne pump disintegrates with age. Guy locally rebuilt it, but better is The Pump Guy SC on this forum. Starter is a different issue, troubleshooting is difficult long distance.
If we can get a wiring diagram then we can suggest a few electrical tests to diagnose your problem. Should take 15 minutes and about 6 measurements. Do you have a volt meter? if so do you have test leads with alligator clips? If not, buy some. Probes are not handy for this kind of dial nor will you get accurate readings trying to hold a lead.