The 3325 winch on my dozer runs continuously. I have read that I need to look at the clutches because they may be stuck together, and not releasing. I have purchased a new control cable because the old one was rusted up. The rotary winch control valve can be rotated by hand if you have gloves on, it is not easy to rotate. My winch does not have spring "11" as show in the drawing below. My question is that is the spring "11" needed to make rotation of the valve easier? I am trying to decide if it is worth purchasing. I have not checked the hydraulic pressure yet since the winch is not on the dozer right now. I want to get the switch operating right first. A rebuilt rotary switch is $ 1,150.00. I just don't know if a rebuilt switch would be any easier for the control cable to operate. thanks is advance for the suggestions. Carr
I would think the spring #11 you have indicated above would assist with valve rotation when the control cable is extending but not when retracting. Referencing the parts breakdown below, loosen the 2 detent plugs (#29) 3 or 4 turns and see if the rotary valve turns easier. If not, the rotary valve doesn’t look overly complicated, maybe just open it and see if there’s anything binding. @mg2361 , is rotary valve seal kit # AT34598 still available at Deere ? .
Yes sir.
Thanks for the reply. I got the spring today. Makes sense what you are saying though. I will report back on the results. Thank you.
Diesel Dave, you are right the spring does not help. I bought the seal kit AT34598 for $ 270.00. All of the parts in this kit are rubber o-rings, and back up rings. No labeling on the parts, but I think I got them all matched up. I do not have everything back together. Thanks, Carr
on my 550, the shaft coming out of the back of the machine never stops. I have to look and see if the coupler is still good or not. I dont really use the winch much.
My coupler is good. The winch drum will turn, but the drum will not stop. thanks for the reply, Carr
interesting. I'll be following along just incase i run into the same issue!
Thanks for all the help on my issue. if you look at the first photo of the assembly drawing from the JD manual, it appears that the valve cap, #5, red arrow, the notches of the valve cap are oriented upwards. The notches are on top of the valve cap. In the second photo the smooth part of the valve cap is oriented upwards. This second photo is before I began disasembling the rotary valve. The second photo shows the original orientation of the valve. The winch has never worked right, the drum turns continuously. I understand that this problem could be that the clutches are stuck together. I am trying to get everything in order before I dig into the clutch problem. Thanks, Carr
From here it looks like one of the valve mounting bolt holes is offset allowing the valve to be mounted in only one position. Is it safe to assume that set screw #1 orients the position of handle #2 to shaft #9 ?
Just for curiosity sake , I would remove the left side cover and see how much rust , oil etc you find. That may give a good indication of the clutch and brake band condition.
Diesel Dave, you are right about one of the bolt holes being offset. You can only mount the switch one way. Thanks
thoughts on this replacement valve? $ 1,700.00 from JK equipment .
Hey Dave , I took the cover off of the left side of the winch. Lots of rust, no oil. I removed the cover off the drum. The six springs were completely rusted and broken. I removed the clutch discs. All rusted to the gear on the end of the spindle shaft. The piston that is in the cover for the clutches was rusted and seized. I managed to beat it out of the clutch cover. I need to order new seals for the piston. I started the dozer to run the winch. The drum still turns without all of the these clutch parts installed. How can this be true? The only thing I can think of is that I could not get the gear off the spindle shaft. See the red arrow pointing to the gear. Maybe the gear is rusted to the drum? Thanks
The main drive shaft goes through the center of the winch drum ,maybe there is enough resistance due to seals etc that some rotational drag is causing the winch drum to rotate. As a test just try tightening the brake band excessively and see if the winch drum remains stationary. . How is the winch oil level and condition?
Dave, winch oil has been changed, and refilled. I am getting 900 psi on my guage. Thanks
Well my progress has been slow on the winch. Today I removed the right side cover after I drained the oil. I was able to remove the drive shaft and gear that goes through the winch drum. As you can see in the pics , the needle bearing and seal that supports the left side of the drive shaft is shot. So when the drive shaft would turn, it would rotate the drum. Now, the drum will rotate freely. My question now is how does this needle bearing get lubricated? I will grease it up good when I put it back together, but long term, this does not seem like it will work with out lubricant. I don’t see how any of the left side bearings get lubed. Thanks Carr
Well my progress has been slow on the winch. Today I removed the right side cover after I drained the oil. I was able to remove the drive shaft and gear that goes through the winch drum. As you can see in the pics , the needle bearing and seal that supports the left side of the drive shaft is shot. So when the drive shaft would turn, it would rotate the drum. Now, the drum will rotate freely. My question now is how does this needle bearing get lubricated? I will grease it up good when I put it back together, but long term, this does not seem like it will work with out lubricant. I don’t see how any of the left side bearings get lubed. Thanks Carr
All the left side bearings including the needle bearing are lubed with grease only.
Ok, thank you sir!