So i switched out all of the ugly halogen lights that came with the machine other than the 2 very rear ones (those i left) for all 48w LED's. OMG these things are 10x bright, last 200x longer, and were a fraction of the price compared to what JD wanted for the ugly halogen ones. the lights are 10v-36v so they should handle the 24v system no problem with no other wiring needed. Well, something isn't right. Today plowing snow my front left wheel wouldn't engage and it was throwing a code that there was a short in the system for the 6wd on that one wheel. it was reading like 23 for road speed compared to 300 on the right and 0psi compared to 1300psi on the right. After I shut the 6wd off then it would show a little psi and a little more wheel speed. We thought the sensor went bad but they can't get one til Wednesday so I'm waiting. Also when I turn on all the lights my radio goes to complete static and the front wiper will sloooooooooooooowly drag itself across the window. If i turn on the wiper it runs fine. turn it off and it drags again. Tonight I unhooked ALL the lights except for the two factory ones in the very rear and the wheel sensor works just fine, front wheel engages just fine, wiper doesn't do anything when all the buttons are pressed on the pad to turn the lights on. So...................... WHAT THE CRAP IS GOING ON??? What can I check for on the lights, what can i check for in the wiring.... I'm up for any and all things to check out. With the lights unplugged I get the following trouble codes thrown: Frt Cab Cnr Lts High Current FLC 2356.6 Frt Cab Cnr Lts Open Circuit FLC 2356.5 Rear Cab Cnr Lts Open Circuit FLC 2362.5 Cab F Work Lts Open Circuit FLC 2352.5 Low Beam Lamps Open Circuit FLC 2350.5 Side Work Lts Open Circuit FLC 2366.5 I'm assuming the "open circuit" is thrown because there are just no lights hooked up. However this High Current one has me puzzled as to why there would be a high current? PLEASE HELP??? anyone??? TIA
When in doubt, check your grounds. Cause it's cheaper than a new computer.
Where are the wiring grounds at on this thing? each light goes into a loom and disappears LOL The battery grounds are good and clean because i had to clean out the gravel in the boxes after moving snow.
There's usually black wires coming out of the harness screwed into the frame/cab with an uninsulated ring terminal. If you're sure the battery ground is good, is there a separate engine to frame ground? You can always run some test leads and see what the voltage is when running. After some searching, it seems electromagnetic compatibility interference is a common problem with cheap LEDs, sorry. One suggestion was wrapping the lights in aluminum foil. Another suggestion was a ferrite choke, which is basically an iron ring that you run the wire through a few times, that might eliminate the interference through the wire. Presumably there isn't anything wireless on a grader? so you can skip the foil.
I will check again and clean up all the grounds again and see if that helps. Any idea why the "High Current" would pop up when there are no lights hooked up? Would that deal with the ground as well?
I really think your problem is the electromagnetic interference thing. The grounds was a shoot from the hip type thing, and no, I can't think of a way that the high current code would come up with the lights removed. Possibly if the lights were on, or other components? Are you familiar with a ferrite choke? I know very little about electronics but it's a very simple device to buy or build, and install. Much cheaper than all new better quality LEDs.
A fellow I know (overszd) operates a JD770. He just replaced all of his but went back to the same kind because of this problem. He say that the LED lamps don't draw enough amps and the computer freaks out. You need a resister in the primary light load wire so the computer thinks it is drawing enough amps. All I can say "darn computers anyway!
That high current code has three definitions. Front cab corner work lights high current, Front washer motor high current, and Front wiper high speed high current. Radrock is correct about the codes, it sees it as an open, lights will work but you will have active codes. Ive never seen the electromagnetic interference thing but its possible. What codes did you have for the 6wd? Ive seen lots of speed sensor wires damaged from driving into things as the wire is routed to the front.
I recently replaced original tail lights on a light truck with led, and the indicators would flash quickly as though they had a blown bulb. Similar to what Radrock said, they weren't drawing enough current so had to wire in resistors. Cheap and easy enough. Cheers, Greg
We had issues with LED lights interfering with UHF two way radios, so the same electromagnetic interference could be an issue in your case as well as the low current draw giving the computer conniptions.
Dunno about grader lights, but in some applications LEDs are "strobed, using a higher than normal voltage spike for additional brightness . Pulse rate is high enough that thew eye does not notice. This could cause interference with the sensors.
Greg if you have to do that again, they sell a flasher that replaces the stock one. Its a little easier than adding a resistor and if the customer ever goes back to regular bulbs it will work without modification. http://www.grote.com/products/44890-variable-load-electronic-led-flasher-flasher/
Did you price speed sensor I did and it was $930 for the little sucker but found wiring harness was rubbed thru on our 872D so fixed wiring harness fixed that problem and then on our 772D the pressure sensor was saying 6000 psi and wasn't working right and a 2 inch section of one of the wires by the pressure sensor was gone!
Cool, I bought the lights on fleabay instead of from someone who might know about such things. Cheers, Greg
OK< < < < Mechanic came out today. Speed sensor is fine, and yes i did check the wiring before they came out. They had to re-calibrate the FWD on the machine since the pump was out of sync with the sensor. Now that is all good. He ran some other stuff and tested some wires before I got there and came to the conclusion that there is a resistor that is out in the machine. The lights are fine but its out in the machine somewhere so it isn't telling the computer to cut back the voltage since it's not needing as much anymore. He said to put a resistor in line to knock the lights down to 12v and I shouldn't have a problem at all with it back feeding to the machine. Said it won't hurt the computer, I'll blow a fuse before it harms the computer and in all workings, it's the same voltage, not sending more back. He said it's just more of a pain than anything. I would like to learn more about the interference so that I can have my FM radio on when the cab lights are on. All i get is static.
Ok lets talk about how this circuit works. It is a computer controlled circuit. Almost all aux circuits are controlled controlled through this controller called the flex load controller (FLC). The flc has a fused switch power (F52), unswitched power (F25) and power from the wiper fuse (F34) when you press the light button it sends a can (controller area network) signal to the flc to turn on your light. It then turns on a driver which is similar to a relay in a conventional circuit but is "smart" so there is no fuse. Instead it has a device built into the driver circuitry which detects opens and shorts. When a open circuit happens or someone puts in aftermarket led lights the driver sees this low voltage drop (ie not using enough power) and sets a code but since it knows it will do no harm it continues to send power out. If it sees a short to ground or high current draw it shuts the driver off protecting the flc. This is a 24 volt system not 12 volts. Keep that in mind when specing bulbs 12 volt bulbs don't last too long. So if you put the wrong resister in and pull too much current now you just caused the driver to shut off. I have never messed around with trying to find the correct current because most guys can live with a few codes. As for your interference, I only use rigid lights and have never had an issue with interference. In concern to your radio, have you checked your antenna and cable to make sure you haven't caught it on a tree? Deere also had some issues with the strobe beacons causing interference from it being installed too close. To rectify that move the strobe or buy AT358511 antenna.
radio has never had a problem before these lights. The strobe is on the opposite corner of the cab from the antenna and has not been a problem with it before. the antenna is the nice little stubby one that on a good day gets all 6 presets covered. I don't like it but it's better than static. the lights are rated at 10v - 30v like most LED's are today so they are good for 12v or 24v power. I can def live with the codes, that doesn't bother me one bit, i'm just making sure I'm not hurting anything is all. Another issue that came to notice. Once i turn the key on, the front plow lights come on right away without any button pushed. when you actually push the button to turn them on and then hit the high beam switch, all 4 front lights come on. Now shut the high beam switch off and the indicator light on the dash turns off but the front lights do not. push the button on the pad again to shut them off and all 4 still stay on. Been high-beamed several times from traffic not happy with all 4 lights in there face. IMO if i'm out at night, you shouldn't be! but thats beside the point that there is something stupid going on here and I'm just trying to figure it out so it all works right again without going back to those crappy yellow dim turd lights. AndrewC thanks for your explanation of the system!
Im not 100% sure whats exactly is going on with the static but from what Ive read about the led lights that is a big issue. Keep in mind when the alt is charging its putting out up to 28.5 volts. Thats approaching the top end of your light rating. When you key on but before you turn on the plow light does the light come on at the ssm pad for that light function? I have heard of issues with the flc drivers staying on. Cost was an flc. Any other codes?
no, the pad does not light up nor do my cruise switches or the console back lighting, just the two low beam plow lights.
Id say either you have a short to power or you have a issue with the flc.