Can anyone tell me why my jd 790 when key is turned only get a load buzzing from behind the seat and it wont kick over and then the buzzer will not shut down
790, 790D, 790E? Serial number? Batteries good? Connections good?
790Eand yes conections good new batteries it will only kick over 1/2 revolution then buzzer comes on and wont shut off until i unhook batterie
Make the issue happen. Then take a jumper and ground the blue/yellow wire on the alternator (that would be terminal 1 on a Delco or the D+ on the Bosch). See if it will start. Report back.
Ok it started under heavy load engine bog down so i switched the wires on two solenoid on top of pump then it run free but all movements r very slow
Let's deal with the starting issue first. Does it crank normally with the wire grounded or did just happen to start in one revolution? If the engine cranks normally when the wire was grounded then you have a bad voltage regulator in your alternator. Alternator will need to be replaced. If it is a Delco you might want to upgrade to a Bosch. If it still only cranks one revolution and stops with the wire grounded then you might have an issue with the Starter Protection Relay circuit. The load on the engine is another issue. Did you have this issue before the buzzer issue? Check all your fuses? Especially the F4 (1 A), F7 (1 A) and F8 (5 A) fuses. Let me know if anything other than 1 A was in the F7 spot.
All fuses r good and yes load issue was initial problem if i switch the wires on the two sensor valve on the top of the pump it runs free but all motion r very slow except for swing seems to opperate fine
Put your wires back to where they load your pumps, then swap the two pump solenoid valve assemblies to see if your hydraulics are slow. If so then one of the solenoid valve assemblies are stuck/bad. Make sure you release the pressure on your reservoir before you swap them. If you have the ability put a vacuum on the tank. Either way you won't lose much oil.
Followed your instructions.yes hydraulic r still slow yet when i run the thumb in the close direction the pump seems to free up and let the motor run free ?
So what you are saying is that the hydraulics are still under load after switching the solenoid valve assemblies? When you switched the solenoid assemblies you didn't let the wiring follow the solenoids did you?
No i switched them entirely.
How can I say this? When you have the pumps loading the engine, then you unplug the wires, then swap the solenoid assemblies, then install the wires back on as if you had not switched them (whatever wire was on the engine side solenoid goes back to the engine side solenoid). If the engine is not loaded from the hydraulics then one of the solenoid valve assemblies is defective.
eq is like a wife if you let them **** you off , your in trouble, walk away think then go back. just the way it is. been there done that ,good luck
Does anyone have a preferences where i shouyld buy one of those solinoids?
Just make sure it isn't China made.
Ok went back and switched those two solenoids back to original placement including wires ,machine started and under heavy load so i switched the solenoid as u instructed machine started idled with no load on motor throttle was responsive but all hyd slow movement but didnt load motor so where do i go from here is it a solenoid gummed up or somthing entirely different
One of your solenoid valve assemblies is defective and will need to be replaced. I think the one that will need to be replaced is the one you just moved closer to the engine (if your serial number is below 24999). The solenoid that is closer to the engine puts the pump into stroke and the one farther from the engine destrokes the pump.
I have replaced both of those solinoid and the angle sensor.now it idles and revs up good but when try to opperate it is jumping?
Was the little spring installed on the end of the angle sensor shaft? Should have purchased a new spring if replacing the angle sensor. Was the angle sensor adjusted to spec?