Hi everyone I just got done rebuilding jdb injector pump for the first time with complete and total success Now the brakesI need to fix they are making like a chattering when I use them and more so in reverse can anyone one tell me how extensive it is to get to the brakes and inspect them I have heard that bad brakes can lead to disastrous problems with this system learning as I go so I don't know much about the brakes system Thanks for any help jon
Somebody just did this on a similar Deere hoe but i can't find the thread. Gotta lift the back of the machine up, pull the rear wheels, unpin one of the lower link arms for the hoe, remove the axle, service the brake, reinstall everything and then do the other side. Have to drain all the oil from the tranny first. The brakes run in the sump with the oil that's common to everything on these hoes, if the brakes wear through the lining then the hard steel starts to machine particles off the cast iron backing plate on the outside, the brakes, steering, transmission, hydraulic pump, loader and backhoe all collect shiny silver glitter everywhere and you never, ever, get it all cleaned out. Voice of experience from working for a construction company that thought maintenance was filling it with fuel.
Page 9 in Tractor/Loader/Backhoe at bottom "how to remove rear axle on 310A" from Scottforster. If the brakes are metal on metal, the sun brake disc will eat into the cast iron piston and fill the system with what looks like aluminum paint. I had the misfortune of dealing with this on a JD 4850 that the sludge had packed in behind the powershift clutch pistons thereby locking it into multiple speeds like a standard jammed into two gears. I posted about how to remove the axle without removing the backhoe frame.
jon vedder, change the oil to john deere tractor fluid a couple of times, someone probably filled it with standard 10 wt or 46 or 32 hydraulic oil. From my experience this is usually the cause of the chattering....TIO
Not to start an argument, but I believe AW 46 is what JD 303 is. Our old 310A is running what ever I drain out, reclaim and settle out of repair projects from my shop as it is seldom used and leaks enough not to put new oil into. I fixed one of the rear brakes after purchase to have at least one to hold and have no chatter or noise. JD oil is going to run $$$ a bucket.
Eh, don't think so... the 303 had extra additives in it, or at least that's what I believe about it. It was obsoleted in the 70's in favor of an upgraded oil anyway. Realistically if you want an old dog to live lots of semi-retired years, spring for the Hyguard and change the filters once a year, the oil will probably last several years if you keep it clean. AW46 is made for hydraulic systems, not everything systems like Deere loved. If you don't love it, it don't matter, put whatever you want in it.
Very true on the 303 being obsoleted. To clarify, I meant the 303 UH&T that is available most anywhere that is for (opinions on that aside) older hydraulic and transmission systems. It may be the wrong thing, but the generic is what most all of the old farm dogs (IH, JD, Case, Ford) around here have been running on for years. A problem I have with our machine is that sitting unused for long periods in our humid environment, it collects a lot of condensation, quickly turning clean oil milky (not good), sometimes over a fall/winter/spring cycle.
For probably less than a hundred bucks you could plumb in a spin on head with an Aqua-Zorb filter from Zinga or equal. I installed a similar setup on a 510 years ago in the inlet side line to the hydraulic pump, worked fine. Do install a differential pressure indicator on the filter head if you do, when the water absorbing media fills up they go into bypass pretty quick.
THANKS guys been a very big help and very interesting info. I will be attempting the brakes job very soon I want learn as much as possible before dismantling I will post how the job is coming along Thanks guys jon