I am at the point where I checked everything and it's time to remove injector pump what I need to know is how do i set timing before removing injector pump Thanks jon
It's pretty easy really, remove the stinger looking bolt that holds a small cover on the flywheel housing on the left side of the engine. Invert the bolt in the hole and turn the engine with a bar till it slides in the hole in the flywheel. Take off the timing cover on the inj. pump and if the two lines are in line, you are good to go,if not turn the engine over one more revolution and it should line up. If still no, you have another problem!
Thanks so much got all set but is it a hole or a deep dimple the pin goes in on the flywheel all marks are lined up but it is a dimple the pin is in on my flywheel not a through hole Thanks again jon
Your pump will only go back into the gear one way as it is keyed. No point in setting the engine before pulling. Remove the shaft from the gear, not the pump from the shaft. As another member and I were discussing in another post, take the cover plate off from in front of the gear, remove the pump mounting bolts, remove the shaft nut and lockwasher, reinstall the nut loosely, pry the pump back towards transmission gently and knock the nut with a drift and it will knock the shaft loose from the gear. Remove the nut and pull the pump out. If you remove the shaft from the pump, you have to worry about getting the umbrella seals back in and getting the shaft back into the pump. IT CAN go in 180 degrees out of time.
Great thanks I will do that but I did start to loosen the two bolts that hold the gear cover and there was pressure on the cover like there was a spring behind it pushing on it so I did not take it all the way off until I found out what was behind the cover pushing on it I just need to know is there a spring behind the cover that could drop when the cover comes off Thanks jon
The hole is not all the way through, it may be 5/8" deep or so. I always leave the shaft in the engine and slide it carefully back on when I install it, but wrwtexan does it in a very acceptable way also. I prefer to take out the shaft but hey, we are all different and the end result is the same. At any rate I would still pin the engine and line up the timing marks when I put it together as roosa master pumps are sensitive to timing and will run ratty if off. This may be new thread worthy but why isn't a cav pump as picky about timing and the roosa master is? scpumpguy?
Wouldn't it be easier getting the umbrella seals in if the shaft is on the bench with pump though or is it the same either way . Also is there a spring behind the two bolts gear cover I need to be aware of THANK you for information jon
I've never seen anything like a spring in the timing cover. Try this, put a strong magnet on the cover, remove it and see what's there? Hate to drop the nut in the pan at this point.
Ok great I will let you know what happens Thanks Again jon
Hi I have the gear cover loose I can see a pin dead center pushing on the cover definitely a spring loaded pin pushing cover would you know what this is Thanks jon
Some Roosas use this pin to take free play out of the shaft by pushing on the end of it. Some JD's and IH Roosa powered engines have them. It won't go anywhere as the spring and pin is combined about 2" long. Just make sure to put it back in on installation. My opinion on the umbrella seals is the one turned towards the pump is less likely to roll if you can work it in off the engine. I also usually don't take injector lines off so trying put it back on the shaft with them in the way would be a pain and a risk with the seal.