Wow, I spent all day hunting down the crazy fitting, then wrestled to get it on. Then, the tire wouldn't hold air, and I noticed that it was a loose valve. So, I went and bought a valve stem wrench and it stopped leaking. Also, put a bolt and nut in the lock for the bucket and I've gotten a lot donee in the few hours I've had a working hoe. Then, I was pushing a piece of concrete slab about 3' square and 5" thick. I bent the bucket over forward, and put it in front of it and drove forward. All of a sudden, I heard a loud POP, and the four bolts on both cylinder caps busted off and the cylinder pushed through. I lifted the arm, got to the level, and pushed the caps back in. Maybe I can just replace the 8 bolts... But they weren't all the way in, so I gently set the bucket down, and reversed to gently apply a little pressure to push them in, Both chrome cylinders snapped in half and fell to the ground. I must not live right. What do I do? Do I buy new replacement cylinder rods and rebuild kits? Do I get whole cylinders out of a junk yard (I heard there was one about an hour away.) I'm more broken hearted than anything. I was really looking forward to this rare good weather to get this done, and I'm down for the count for probably a week, if not more. Any help (and encouragement!) you can offer..? I mean, I didn't think I was even being rough on it. Did I just make a horrible decision buying an old machine and I should only use it to load plastic balls into bouncy house? Thanks.
Never stress a fully extended cylinder. Roll it out all the way, then back a bit. This leaves a cushion of oil between cap, & piston. You now have a problem. Willie
Used cylinders are probably your best bet. You're going to need rods and glands at a minimum to repair those.
Once you get it back together, check the standby pressure, and cycle a few times. This, along with your busted fitting, might be caused by the pressure being set too high, or the pressure control sticking.
Okay, sorry you had to learn that lesson the hard way. First off in my opinion, NEVER push with the bucket broken over, the leverage from the linkage is just way too high. That's for dumping, not pushing. Back blading also should be done with a bit of forward angle on the bucket, though it's not as harmful because it's pushing on the rods. Pushing forward you do with the bucket flat or slightly tipped down. Again just my opinion. Now... those cylinders ain't stock, those plates are somebody's ham fisted poor excuse for a repair. Originally the glands slid in, a snap ring went into a groove in the cylinder wall, the gland pulled back up tight and a ring nut threaded onto the gland to lock it into place. If it were me I would bite the bullet and shop for some good used cylinders that had hopefully been repacked from a dismantler.
Where do I shop for used cylinders? I can't find anything online.
lantraxco is right. Those cylinders have been weakened by a bad modification. The end of the cylinder should look like lantraxco's parts drawing and my photo. I would definitely find new to you, used cylinders. Good luck.
1 877-988-2772 try this number. it's conequip.com They may be able to help or direct you to the right place.
There are hydraulic shops. Here, a young man with several years of experience has started his own shop. He's good, he's done a few cylinders for me. When he's done they are better than new. Buy used if you can find them. Coming off a cadaver tractor leaking, or settling are a major risk. They'll still need repacking. My 410 had a 20' 3/8" chain in the bucket one day I was using it to hold a farm tractor in the air while replacing the front axle. I forgot it was there, but remembered when it hit me in the head when the bucket drooped. Drooping hydraulics are not fun. The only time it's nice to have is when doing masonry work. Hang a stone too big to lift from a choker. You then have time to climb down, and place it. Willie
I can't thank you guys enough. You're a lifesaver. My only semi local option was 600 apiece off a boneyard. I called conequip and they have two for 489.
Willie, Somewhere I have an old picture [film] of my 580CK holding up half my Farmall M when I put a clutch in it. You use what you got, right?
karlM, you are welcome. It's always fun to help someone in need. I have learnt more about backhoes from this forum than anywhere else. Just a nice community of awesome people. Coneguip Parts is almost close enough to you to drive there and pick them up.
Sure do, but after that I checked the bucket for whatever might have been left behind last use. Willie
Ok, so I got the new cylinders on. Couple questions: When we connected the hydraulic lines to extend the pistons to reach the bucket, only one of the two new pistons extended. I assume it's because of air in the lines? So, will that work itself out, or is there a way to bleed the lines? Secondly, int he process, there was a slight tragedy- the bleeder screw on top of the fuel filter got hit by falling old cylinder and cracked. Now it won't start unless we unscrew it and cover the hole with a finger. I'm assuming for the time being, I can get a similarly threaded screw to plug the whole. This one is plastic/nylon/poly and has an o-ring Is this a common item? Can I get it somewhere or is it custom to this machine. Third, my big tire keeps leaking air out of the stem. I was able to tighten the stem but now it's still leaking pretty bad. Is that just a stem replacement? like the guts inside and is that a standard size for all tires? And what pressure should they be inflated to? Finally, I've put about 15 hours on it since I bought it and would like to change the oil. Any quick tips on that? I still haven't gotten the manual from the guy I bought it from. He's planning on mailing it, but he's working out of town, so... any help?
Does the one that extended come up hard at the end? If so is it possible you got the two lines to one or the other cylinder switched somehow? Try pulling the one cylinder back in and see if the other pushes out. Air should not be a problem, but it's possible if the cylinder has been repacked that it's very tight and will take a bit of pressure to start it moving. Deere part numbers in case that helps: R34446 DRAIN PLUG R26287 O-RING AT25226 TIRE VALVE STEM T19044 OIL FILTER (NAPA 1243 Baldwin BT259)
15W40 in summer. (three seasons), In very cold weather 10W30.
When ever you connect two cylinder together like this they will never work together until they are both pinned to the same attachment. The pressure always pushes out the one with less resistant. Just keep pushing piston out to align, connect it and cycle the cylinders a dozen times. The air will bleed out to the oil reservoir all by itself.
That makes sense. Thanks. Another question for the Wizards: the 410 makes something of a squeal/whine when in reverse. Any ideas?
You're right. Once I had the bucket attached, they both work great now. As for the tire, turns out it was a tube, and I got a new tube. I get home, the OTHER tire is flat. I had to buy a new tire for that one, and found two new tires for this (18.4x24) for 399 each, so I think I lucked out there. I posted another thread on here that the hoe makes a squeal any time it's in reverse (and moving) I was wondering if anyone had any experience with that, and no one has responded to that post. Did I ask too many questions too fast for a new guy?
Any chance the parking brake is partially on, stuck linkage, like that?
Here's how new I am. I don't think I have a parking brake. It has a park gear but no obvious brake.
Well KarlM, Reverse always sounds like a winning noise but not a squeal. It's just the reverse gears natural sound as there is an extra set of gears turning, like planetary gears.