I have a 40G that will not swing to the left. And I had two wires come unconnected from their spade connectors and don't know which way to connect them. I guessed wrong and now the machine isn't working right. I need a wiring diagram if anyone can help please.
Also can anyone help me identify which Racine hydraulic solenoid or valve does what function?
I worked on 40G's in the early 80's, but I don't have a manual for anything in the G series. They were sort of a half way point or step between the 40F and the 40H. Late model 40F, early model 40H. The valve locations varied a lot on early JLG's, I swear no two were ever built the same back then. For the solenoid valves, the best way to identify valves is to unplug a wire at a time and see which function stops working, then mark it for future reference. The proportional valves (lift/swing/drive) are easier. The Drive has largest hoses, the swing has extra pressure regulators built onto the valve to limit side force, and the other valve is lift. Where did the wires come off their spade connectors? At the joystick or at the valve?
I followed your advice and fixed my wiring problem. The wires for the swing, lift, and drive solenoids are connected with spade lugs. I replaced the lugs as they were coming apart on their own from Deutz diesel vibration. I narrowed the problem down to the swing solenoid valve coil being open. No continuity to the coil on the left swing but it does have continuity on the right swing which works fine. Do you know where I can get a coil for the Racine valves? The coil is replaceable hopefully. I do have the factory parts manual but it doesn't list coil part numbers.
I need this solenoid coil. Can't find any numbers on it.
Here's the repair manual. I'll look for a part number for you
Thank you. I can't even find a solenoid that looks similar.
What you are showing there is a whole assembly, including a bunch of hydraulic parts of the pilot valve. If you pull that cover off where the wires are peaking out, you will find a white spool of thin wire. That spool is the replacement part. I had a bunch at one time, I gave them all away to people on here. I've been busy, haven't looked up the part number yet.
How does it come apart? Does it unscrew or pry off?
should just pry apart from what I remember
Part number for the coil - JLG #7000406
Thank you so very much. It took a pair of Vice grips and a small pipe wrench to twist and twist and then i could pry it open. You are most likely one of the few people in the world that could help me with this issue AND find a part number. We are about 3000 miles away from each other. I'm two years older than you and we remember how sharing this knowledge 30 years ago would have been impossible without the internet. My local dealer in Sanford, Fl can help me with their coil services for $129 (and you gave numerous ones away to help others), from what i see online. . Alberta Canada is absolutely beautiful from the picture that comes up on the net. Thanks again for your valuable help. My 39 year old JLG 40G I've had for 22 years will help keep me safe again.
You are very welcome D 40G. I'm always glad to help, that's what keeps me here. I collected a huge amount of knowledge over the years, most of which is now useless knowledge. Thank you for giving me the opportunity to use some of it again.
Now that I have the new coil installed still no left swing. I have coil continuity and power to the coil when left swing is tried. It looks like I assembled it correctly from the manual you sent me. Is there a way to check if the solenoid is actuating like putting a stethoscope on the coil and actuating it? I'm pretty clueless to what to check next.
Does the function operate when you push in the little button on the end of the valve section? It should when running on ground control.
If the function works when pushing the button, the next step is centering that valve. Centering On the proportional valve bank, on the bottom side, you will find three 1/2" lock nuts around Allen head screws in the middle of 3 big hex's, one on each section. Loosen the lock nut on the swing section With the engine running on ground control, turn the screw in until the tone of the hydraulics changes, signaling the start of that function. Turn the screw in the other direction until the tone of the hydraulics changes again, counting the number of turns of the screw from one to the other. Turn the screw to the half way point between the two, and lock it down.
All it takes is one little chuck of dirt or guck to stop things from working when you have one of those pilot sections apart. They are a little bit sensitive.
and make sure your grounds are clean to those coils, no corrosion.
I would assume the left swing switch should be held down while pushing the button on the valve? I pushed the valve button without holding the left swing switch and nothing happens. I can't reach the valve button while holding the left swing switch down at the same time. I could try a piece of wood to hold the valve button while holding the switch down.
No, just the little button should activate the function while on ground control
Well I figured out what you meant by pushing the button on the solenoid end. Right swing works fine left swing does nothing. At first I couldn't push it in so I took it back apart and pushed on a solid surface to break it free. Then reassembled and it doesn't do anything. I never had any of the cap parts out. The o-ring holds them in. I can't see any parts I lost?
Could a part called The solenoid controlled variable orifice have fallen out? It is really hard to see what the coil part plugs into being so close to the frame. Probably have to take it back apart and use a mirror to see what could be missing with the coil assembly removed.
I remember a stream of oil used to often wash small parts (small unseen parts) away when I took the valves apart. Have a good look around, take it apart again and make sure everything is spotlessly clean.
I took it back apart and used a mirror to look at what the solenoid seats on. I can't see anything that could have fallen out when I pulled the solenoid out. I have the solenoid plunger pointed in the right direction. All o-rings are there and properly installed. It doesn't leak. I did use a new o-ring inside the coil assembly and it is sealing or it would leak. Could it be something inside the valve that I didn't touch? I am beginning to wonder if the coil was bad but I did do a continuity check and the bottom coil had continuity and the top didn't so the coil had to be bad. No dirt inside and I used lint free paper towels when cleaning the parts. I was afraid to pull the right swing coil assembly out to see if any parts fall out since the coil wires aren't held by anything and didn't want to risk a wire falling out and then needing a second replacement coil. Hydraulic oil pours out non-stop when the coil is removed making it a hassle to work on. I lost every drop of hydraulic oil when it was apart waiting for the new coil. Had 5 gallon buckets catching it. Now have 20 gallons of fresh hydraulic oil in. I looked for any tiny parts in the sand around the area I was working on and even used a long bar magnet to search for a tiny part. Found rust flakes and not much else in the sand. Now have a big piece of cardboard under the work area. Is there a way to stop hydraulic fluid from pouring out while i take it apart without pumping the tank full back into the 5 gallon buckets It came in?
First thing I would do before working on an "F" series machine was to install a terminal strip where the wiring met the valve coils. This just made everything easier down the road. Hooking/unhooking was a breeze and it also provided a good test point. Check your resistance on the coils. I don't know the value, but its not close to zero and not infinite either. The way you removed that pilot coil clump was a good one, other than the oil leak it caused. You should not have lost anything. (far as I can remember) When I worked on the coils, I would remove the whole pilot section. I remember it being held on with 4 Allen head cap screws. When the pilot section came off, the oil streamed out of a little 1/8" hole in the face of the main valve body. The sharpened end of a pencil fit that hole perfectly and stopped the leak. Then I'd work on the coils on a bench or other semi-suitable surface. I can imagine messing with those coils when they are 40+ years old would be something you'd like to avoid. They were bad enough when the JLG was few years old. And yes, even brand new machines messed up on a regular basis.
I carefully examined the parts breakdown and it looks like a poppet part #355658 could have fallen out when I removed the coil assembly. I searched for over an hour with my metal detector on the ground where I took it apart and no luck finding it if it did indeed fall out. From what you remember no parts fell out when you removed the coil and coil housing from the valve? It seems like I would have seen it hit the dirt if it did fall out. The poppet is on page 43 of the manual. Item #13. From the breakdown it sure looks like this little part could fall out when removing the coil housing. I'm going out to remove the coil assembly again and try to take a picture of what is there.
Yes. I looked up on an exploded view, and the part I remember falling out on me was a poppet. JLG part #7000423 and I think it might be too light to made of anything magnetic.
These JLG numbers are coming from a fax I saved that I received in 1988 from McConnellsberg PA I believe hanging onto stuff that long is a mental defect btw.
I took it back apart. I removed both swing coil assemblies .No poppet visible. No parts fell out of the right swing coil after removing it. On the G model this valve assembly is about 2 inches away from the frame. I tried a flashlight and mirror and still couldn't see if the poppet is there. It doesn't seem like the left swing poppet would fall out if the right swing poppet didn't fall out when I removed the coil assembly. It is a total hassle trying to remove these coils with hydraulic fluid dripping down my arms and all over. They didn't think about coil replacement when laying out the components of this machine. I hope the coil isn't ruined by getting soaked with hydraulic fluid. I'm still not convinced the poppet fell out. It seems like the hydraulic fluid would have held it in place being mounted horizontally.
Is the poppet deeply recessed in the hole or can you normally see it inside its hole? As hard as it is to see in the machine I can't see one in either solenoid hole. The right swing did work pushing the button on the end so does that automatically mean the pin on the left swing isn't making contact with the poppet because it is missing? Gonna take it back apart losing a quart of hydraulic fluid mostly all over me and try a magnifying mirror and lots of light to see If I can see down the hole where its supposed to be. Also are these valves difficult to rebuild? Only thing I've done with hydraulics is rebuild all the hydraulic cylinders except the main lift cylinder and replace lines as they blew. Kind of intimidating never having worked on them.
I called the JLG dealer and he said the number for the poppet is not a good number. I also found the same number on a 40H parts list. I'm pretty sure I will have to remove the swing valve assy and put a seal kit in it. I can't see the poppet on either the left or right swing valve after removing the coils. I really don't think It popped out and I lost it. On the 40H parts list it says number 7004831 is a seal kit. It lists a bunch of seals included to rebuild the solenoid valve assy. The JLG dealer says that number is a seal servo end cap. That doesn't sound like a seal kit. Is there a way to disconnect a hose and plug it to stop all the hydraulic fluid from draining out so I can remove the solenoid valve assy? I really don't want to pump out all 20 gallons I just put in it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Any Idea where I can get a seal kit for the Racine valve? The local JLG dealer called JLG and they aren't wanting to try to find one for my old machine. I thought part #7004831 was right but the dealer says it comes up as a seal servo end cap. The 40H manual has a parts breakdown for the Racine valve and thats where I got the number for the seal kit. Every part in the 40H breakdown looks identical to the Racine manual you sent me. The Racine seal kit is part #493951. Googling them doesn't come up with anything.
Sorry, I didn't see this sooner. I normally get a notification when someone posts in a thread like this. I didn't this time. Seal kit for between the servo/pilot section and the main valve body - JLG #7004832 Seal Kit for the servo (pilot) section - JLG #7004831 (I see I had the same number JLG doesn't like) Individual seals for servo/pilot section 3960091 seal washer 7004810 O-ring 7002392 O-ring 7002382 O-ring 7002227 O-ring 7004815 (seal plate that houses the o-rings) 7002282 O-ring 7002389 O-ring
Servo/pilot assembly JLG #7004877
I'm back trying to fix my swing problem. I took the valve apart and put a new coil in and reassembled it. Now I don't have left OR right swing. I carefully checked the parts diagram and there is only two parts that I could have possibly put in the wrong place. One is a spring part #57 and part #54 a pin. I used to have right swing working and now neither left or right swing works. How do I find the part number to try to find a used valve for parts? There must have been a bunch of the Racine valves used on different models and I would really like to get a used valve assembly to repair my machine.
well, there is a spring applied, hydraulically released brake on the swing that locks it in place. Much like the drive wheels. Option A: At the valve bank, you could swap hoses from the swing valve to the lift valve, and swing where you need it using the lift controller. Hoses on the drive functions are a much larger size. Option B: On the swing motor/brake assembly, there may be a plate held on with two 1/4" (7/16" head) bolts with a knob on it like on the drive hubs. If so, turn that knob over so it's pointing inward to release the swing brake.
Well I took the swing valve bottom assembly off and also the lift valve assembly. Took both apart and reassembled both to make sure all parts are put in correctly. After reassembly the lift valve works like it should but the swing valve doesn't. Pretty frustrated with what could be wrong. There is a slight change in motor speed when pushing the button on the end of the coil assembly. Any suggestions? I wish I could find a used swing valve assembly bottom section. I can't find a part number stamped on it. Do you think it is likely to find a used valve bottom or any suggestions what could be wrong? I never found any replacement o-rings either but they aren't torn, just flattened out.
This comes up as a supply return tube. Is it supposed to be the lower half of the valve?
i took it apart for the third time and carefully removed every o-ring, soaked the metal parts with brake clean, and blew it out with the air hose. Still doesn't swing. i've got it memorized how it goes together. it doesn't need bleeding anywhere does it? Its dripping hydraulic fluid between the swing and lift valve. Don't know whats next. o
no bleeding required. It shouldn't be leaking between the sections. An o-ring must have slipped on you. That part number WAS the section of the valve where the coils are. The pilot section.