I have a Early JLG 40F S/N 733086, I have been told it is a 1977 model. It caught fire and burnt hoses and wires in on the back side of the Wisconsin engine. It was a arson, not the machine. I have replaced the hoses and repaired/Replaced the wiring. I used a newer wiring diagram as a guide, But not sure I am up to Hoyle. I have everything working except the basket leveler. It will work manually. One coil is bad, and the newer manuals I used do not correspond with what I have. I believe/know I have a Racine system. It has two joy sticks, one for lift/swing and one for drive/steer. It is a 2 wheel drive. The basket is fixed with no rotate option. My questions are, Does any one have a parts and a repair manual for this early a machine. If not does any one have a part number for the level control valve coil. It has a 3/4" I.D. One contact and has a nut holding it in place. I hope I have accurately described my machine, If not I will provide what ever is needed if possible. I would would like to thank anyone in advance for any help that they are willing to give, Even if I have a lost cause.
Welcome James Gordon, the machine you described is commonly referred as having Cutler/Hammer controllers and Racine "solenoid" valves. A simple and dependable combination. I have a 40F manual set in PDF that I can send you. All I need is an email address. I'll dig you up a part number for the coil you need tomorrow.
Thank you so much ! My email is " edited out" , I have always liked to make something dead come alive again, sometimes it can be quit a challenge. I believe the challenge is the fun. A gain, Thanks Jim
James, you may want to edit your post and remove your email address. Just in case. Manuals are sent. One of the mods can edit your post if you cannot.
I'm not real good at this, how does one contact a mod to get it resolved ? I can't seem to find a way.
Done
Thank You, Jim
Did You have time to get that p/n for the coil yet?
OFF, I have searched the parts sections and can not for the life of me find the coil for those solenoid control valves, lift, level, steer. I can find the valve assemblies, but not their break down for the coils. Am I missing something. Thanks, Jim
You're not missing a thing Jim. The part number you need is not in the manual. I've been going though some paper, but I haven't found it yet. Had a lot going on lately and I just haven't gotten the time to dive and search yet. Sorry. I haven't forgotten.
Not a problem. It is single digits here and my bones don't like that. Not a hurry. Thanks for your help, Jim
The Racine part number for that 12V coil is 493482, and that doesn't really seem to lead anywhere. I'm still looking for the JLG part number.
12VDC, 43W coil. Spade connection. Easy enough to make should you not be able to locate one. Not advertising my services but will coach if need be to get you going. Not your valve but does depict what it looks like #1 in the diagram is your solenoid coil:
Bosch has destroyed many references to older Racine part supplies, numbers, and cross references. Makes if difficult to maintain older stuff for sure but avenues can be found if a guy doesn't give up.
Maybe look like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/373432737484?hash=item56f2535ecc:g:QuAAAOSwIlJgBjKh
That is just about it, but I think JLG had them make a different housing just for them. I'll ask for dimensions to make sure if it will fit. All that is needed is the correct I.D. and enough room on the O.D. to fit. Just needs the force to move the spool. Thanks for the find, I'll check
Got measurements back. Length 2-3/8", O.D. 2-1/8", I.D. 1-1/16. This is not the right one. I need a 3/4" I.D.
Could you post up some photos of your part? Really odd that part number would come up in a search and it be a different physical size. Yours does not use a plastic sleeve, or liner does it that may be melted away? Here is a snip from a parts manual and it shows sleeves:
will try to get pics in a couple days. My old coil is intact, just don't ohm out. can manually operate valve.
Here's a picture of the valve bank with the coil removed. The other two coils are identical.
Can you post a couple views of the coil itself?
Oh! That's not Racine. Those are called FPS valves.
I didn't know what they were but definitely NOT Racine. I recently found my marbles and was swearing I'd lost them again..... If'n I can see good clear photos of the coil I'll be able to ascertain whether I can rewind it.
OOPS, I miss led you. Sorry bout that. I'll try and find the old coil and get pics. I think it is at a friends. Didn't throw it away.
The valve for the high drive was a Racine valve. I just assumed all the valves were Racine. Assuming will always get you in trouble. Thanks, Jim
That is a very accurate statement. Are there any identifying marks on that solenoid coil at all?
I miss led myself you mean! I didn't see a lot of JLG "F" series machines with FPS valves, so my mind is stamped with "all solenoid valves are Racine" and I proceeded accordingly. The few FPS valve machines I saw were very dependable.......back in the 80's........ do a Google search for "FPS solenoid valves" and you should get some hits. I have no info or part numbers for them in my stash unfortunately
No, not a one.
I'll do that. Thanks
And for future reference, the correct Racine part number for the 12 Volt coil used on JLG Racine solenoid valves is #493419
Well I was hoping with using OFF's money and my good looks, we'd have you up and running but then I got to thinking grandpa always said: "Boy, "If" I had a dog that looked like you, I'd shave it's ass and make it walk backwards" so I guess we better depend upon OFF's money only. Couple things to note here: Notice the open hole in the metal case is larger than the plastic insert or "bobbin" shown here: Notice the internal "bobbin" is recessed internal to the metal case shown here: Read this first fully before acting: Fashion some type of tool to push on the plastic "bobbin" from above while the solenoid coil sets upright on a hard surface. Remove that straight slot screw which holds the insulator firmly in place. Citing the solenoid coil is "open" or does not "ring" with an ohmeter, place the coil assembly into a pan of water. It is alright to submerge it totally and bring the heat up to just below boiling. Allow to dwell in the hot water for a few minutes. Remove the coil, set it upright on a firm surface and apply downward pressure with your fashioned tool. The hot water should loosen the adhesive bond of the glue they put these things together with. Once the "bobbin" is free from it's bonding in it's metal shell, try to guide the insulator and contact out of it's encumbrance without destroying it. No matter if it's salvageable or not but do try to save it for ease of assembly. Once apart you will see fine wire that is usually a red varnished color and probably a yellowing clear tape. The tape is called Kapton, and the wire is magnet wire. Both are available via online suppliers as is electrical varnish. Get a known good ohmic reading from another coil if cannot be ascertained in print. This wire has a finite resistance value per foot of length and figure out how to wind that "bobbin" with new wire to very close to the ohmic value desired. You are probably going to require several hundred feet but it's easy to do. I did all six of mine at the kitchen table. I will look in some books I have but I'm not near as familiar with these things as "OFF" would be.
Thanks for everyone's input. I have a lot of research to do now. My next project is to get my 392 hemi in my old Plymouth to sing again
Hey OFF, I have a parts manual that is titled "Model 40" that lists a couple of different FPS options along with part numbers, pages 2-57 and on. If I remember correctly it should be in the CD that I sent you several years ago, I just don't know quite how to read it.
I had one of those in a Savoy with a Doug Nash 5spd behind through an 8.75 Chrysler rear. Ran really well too with two Holley 660 center squirters through a Weiand tunnel ram feeding it.....
My Mother used to say " If frogs had wings it wouldn't bump their ass when they hopped"
well, looks like good ol' Google let us down on this one. My search came up empty. You may have no choice but to repair your old coil as 1693TA suggested. Does it measure as "open" or just a lower resistance than the other coils?
My searches are coming up empty also. Is there a name that is known for the FPS valves or who made them? Just trying to grasp at straws.
It says it is open, however I thought at first it ohmed out. Might try and see if is broke at the terminal. wishing for miracles I'm afraid
Fluid Power Systems which is now a part of Parker-Hannifin. The original part number still exists but from the limited picture I've seen, it looks different. However it may be functionally the same. I would attempt to research through a local Parker Hydraulic's store
I couldn't figure out how to add text to the pic so here it is. While we are one this subject, This is the other valve bank on the machine. It looks like the same style valve as the other valve bank that is FPS. Is that correct? or are they something else? Thanks again, Jim
From my inexperienced eye those are also FPS valves. This is is Racine valve which you will see called "Bang-Bang" valves as they are not proportional in operation being either open, or closed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3636976200...7&brand=Parker&_trksid=p2508447.c100284.m3505
Yes, this is the Racine valve that I have for Hi Drive, which led me to believe it was a Racine system. That is what the wrong manual will get ya. I think I have this system figured out now. If it ever warms up, I'll finish it.
I lucked out with the coil. I removed the grommet around the terminal, dug a little deeper and found the broken wire, soldered it back. Put a bolt that fit in the coil and applied voltage. It held the bolt in place till the voltage was removed. Now just needs to warm outside to finish. I want to thank "OFF" and "1693TA" for all the time you spent with me figuring this out. The help was much appreciated. Jim,
Great on you and thanks for the report back!! Such a simple design can really be a pain at times.....
that's great news! I'm glad you were able to find the problem and repair it.