I have a 1999, JLG 450A, with Duetz Diesel engine. The foot pedal controls started giving me problems. The motor starts and stops fine from the platform. The foot pedal seemed to be the problem, except, it works to cut out the starter if you depress it while trying to start the motor. After running, the foot pedal does not power up the controls. All functions on the ground work fine, only the platform has problems. The fuses or the timers were clicking and humming while pressing the foot pedal. I replaced the timers and the fuses, and nothing changed. If you jump power from the fuse to the orange wire (49-20), the foot pedal works fine, but only for a little while. Probably until the breaker over heats. I tried to hire a someone to come and diagnose this, but they never showed up. So, I'm forced to fix it myself. Please help.
Welcome to HEF BLU JCW. :drinkup I assume you've got your wiring diagrams so you can noodle through this, no? First, pull the cover off of the foot switch so you can inspect and test some wires. You would no believe how many time I've found either water in the foot switch or water damage causing things to go haywire. With E-stop pulled out (powered up) you should have voltage on orange wire in foot switch. Depress foot switch, you should have voltage on red wire in foot switch. This wire goes to terminal #6 on terminal strip. Power from #6 goes to terminal 1 of seven second interval timer, and terminal 1 and 2 of seven second delay timer. Verify how this power flow is working (or not).
The early JLG footswitch has been discussed here a few times. Here is a link to one: Here is the schematic for the footswitch and timer delays: and a wiring diagram of the footswitch:
Does it matter that I checked the wiring in the console? At some point the wiring from the foot pedal was removed from the block. The are tied directly into the other yellow/red wires. I used a test light and check power going to the pedal here (orange), step on the pedal and power comes out (red), take your foot off the pedal and power is on (blue), (black) is ground. I finally found someone to work on the lift, they tried to take the foot pedal apart and broke two bolts and still could not get it apart. They did wrap it a few times with a brass mallet and bingo it works. I don't understand. If I was getting power at the switch leads at the panel and could get the test light to prove switching when the pedal is pressed and depressed, could the pedal still be bad? We have stored the machine indoors for the past 4 years. It has been stored all summer without use when this all started. I'm not saying that this machine could not have spent all the rest of its life outdoors. My big question is even if I get 12v at the panel leads, could the foot switch be bad? This is my issue? I removed the foot switch from problem solving because of this test, but............? BTW- thanks for your responses, the repair guy is stumped also, it makes me feel better.
Inside the foot pedal are the two switches, a couple funky levers with adjusting set-screws, springs and usually after a few years a boatload of rust that sticks the levers to the case and cause numerous issues. Sometimes a rap on the pedal can free the stuck lever or a switch. You will need to get into the pedal and clean, lubricate and/or replace worn, damaged and broken components.
It took a while, the short and small of it was the foot pedal. It was corroded and quite messed up inside. On the down side, the fasteners that hold it together broke. We sourced a complete new foot pedal and all seems to work now. What I don't get is that when you test (with a simple test light) the switch legs of the pedal from the panel, it seems to be working. Apparently, NOT. Goes to show you. Thanks for the replies!
I have similar issues with my 1999 jlg 450. I took the foot switch cover off and tested as described above. When I put the test light on the red wire and depress the foot switch, the test light comes on but it is dim and I can see the other panel lights get dim like there is a short but it doesn't trip the breaker. Any ideas?
Check for a bad Ground, or just run a temp. ground, that will tell you if it is a ground issue.
Help anyone. I have a somewhat similar issue. I seem to have no power to the basket at all. The orange wire mentioned earlier in this thread had no power. All was working well until suddenly when operating from basket, motor shut off. Now, it cranks, operates fine from basket. but the minute you turn the key to up position to enable platform controls, it dies. Yes, both my EMS Switches are pulled up. I would pay someone good money for advice on how to fix this. I am in the field on a job and broke down. No way to even load the machine. I do have wiring schematics, but am very poor at reading them. jlg450A, serial number 0300048777. I believe it is maybe a 2002 year model. Thanks so much Stacy Whetzell is it legal to put phonenumber in this...I think so. 4234026728
update about 1.5 hours later.. I checked continuity of wiring from ground to basket incoming wires. They checked as follows: Connect to Orange on Ground and my ohm meter shows all 4 wires to be connected somewhere (continuity through orange, red, blue, white) Connect to Blue on Bround, same thing...all 4 wires show continuity Connect to Red on Ground, same thing - except on this testing my ohm meter pegs out on each wire. However, I can get no current/voltage in the basket. I tried removing the blue wire on switch at ground, and moving the orange wire to that terminal.. No joy. Desperate here...
CORRECTION in original post. I should have said, "Now it cransks and operates fine from "GROUND", but minute you turn key to up position to enable platform controls, it dies.
Found my problems. First, a bad ignition switch had finally stopped working in the up position. Replace that. Ran a wee . Then after shutoff. Would not crank. No fire to starter. Long story short: There are 2 30am contzctors on backside the EMS mushroom switches. At ground side, the last push to shut off, rike one of the aging contactors. This in turn seemed to put l the load on the remaining contactor, which partially melted, but not before partially melting the new, 1 week old ignition switch. Botton line: 2 view co tractors, another new ignition switch and a new 30 amp breaker inserted back into wiring where previous owner had cut out the breaker and strahght wired it, and I've had no more problems. Stacy