S/N LV0110T510385 Got a manual and have read the following codes: Forward+Reverse+Creep+Throttle Potentiometers all flashing. Then.... Also Sensor Supply Voltage flashing. So, I think that's where I need to start. Perhaps the supply voltage is out of spec (or non-existent) and tripping everything else. Anyone ever encounter this? My battery has seen better days, but the machine still starts on the first crank with all hydraulic functions working perfect. Voltage is right up when running and motor has a new alternator. Even with a beastly booster pack on the battery prior to start up, no change. I'm thinking the supply voltage must be triggering all the potentiometers, so looking for ideas as to where to start as I don't want to probe my wiring to death. I did see a DIY patch harness for setting the potentiometers which I plan to build. This would at least let me know if input voltage was low or perhaps even at zero. Fuse is good and is getting power. Thanks for your imput.
Welcome to HEF tractorbuds ! There is no sensor supply light. Do you mean the the light with the book? Post the codes that are being flashed. Maybe post a video of the flashing. I would suggest making sure all ground connections (at both ends of the cable) at the battery are clean and tight. Also make sure the ground connection on the right side of the engine block is clean and tight, and the one on the right side of the transmission as well.
Yes, on the dash, the light with the book. According to the chart in the service manual, the flash sequences are stating the previously noted fault codes. I'm thinking it's highly unlikely that all 4 potentiometers have issues at the same time and one could theorize that the 'Sensor Supply Voltage' flash sequence long-long-long-long is perhaps causing the other issues as we know the potentiometers require a certain voltage range to function. I hope that makes sense. The 'sensor Supply Voltage' is fault #11 on page 179 of my service manual, chapter 'Electrical Troubleshooting. The ground on the left side of the engine looks good (did not readily see one on the right side?). Motor starts, idles, revs up, dash functions work, but no movement of the machine and no creeper either. Perhaps the ground that supplies power to the potentiometers is faulty. My cab is very crispy, but I have no clue where to look (yet) as I have not had to to have a close look, or researched where to look. The cab is super crispy though, lots of rot, so if the wiring is relying on a good ground inside the cab frame, that would be my go to. It would make sense to jump from a ground in the harness back to the battery, but again, have not disassembled and probed for that yet. Thanks for getting back to me.
Codes 1 - LSLL (long - short) 2 - SSLL 3 - LLSL 4 - SLSL 5 - LLLL
Grounds have been cleaned, no change. I think I will probably build this tester and see what's happening at the potentiometers next, but that will have to wait a couple weeks for the family vacation which starts in 4 days time. Between now and then, I'll pick away at anything else I can find. I also pulled the fuse box and there was nothing suspicious there, which was a plus.
They are all grounded through the TCU. The TCU ground wire runs to the side of the block. The reason I suspected a ground is because of the SSLL code. That is for the amperage to the forward and reverse solenoids. It will throw that code with either high or low resistance. Those solenoids share the ground with the potentiometers. All the potentiometers (except the inching) and the speed sensor are supplied a 5 volt reference through the 673 orange wire out of the TCU. If the grounds are good, I would suspect an issue with that wire or one of the potentiometers could be shorted. First, I would unplug the speed sensor to see if those codes go away. If it does, problem solved. If not then that orange wire will need to be checked from the TCU to the potentiometers. Circuit integrity can be checked without the special harness. You can backprobe (carefully) all the connections to test voltages with the key on. If the 5 volt reference is low, then there is an issue with the orange wire or controller. Grounds can be checked this way as well. There should be no more the 0.1 volt measured at the potentiometers ground (again with the connectors connected and backprobed. Here is a great tool for backprobing. View attachment 290527
Well good morning and thanks for all of that info, much appreciated. I keep reading about that speed sensor causing/fixing so many issues, but was hesitant to just start throwing parts in. I really do enjoy troubleshooting and learning along the way. I have been wrenching on stuff for a little over 30 years now and run a successful maintenance business, but this kind of equipment is not something I've been exposed to much. Your attachment gave me this error "The requested page could not be found." I hear ya though, if done carefully, it can be done. As for the TCU and ground wire, are you able to expand on whereabouts to look for that? The only ground I have found on the engine block thus far was on the left side and turned out to be for the cab, and it was good. On the RH side I followed the harness back and found two grounds on the transmission. Thanks again for the assistance.
By the way, this machine is new to me, a project. Just went to pull the wire off the sensor and it's not even present. The harness is there, with a cap installed.
That wire on the block is also for everything I mentioned above. The best way to know if your ground is good is through the voltage drop test I mentioned by backprobing a potentiometer ground wire and measuring. If it is 0.1 or less, your good to go on the ground. Here is the attachment picture....I hope.
Actually, the harness is not there - the harness I saw is the HST diagnostic plug and have since read that some models don't have the speed sensor. Anyways, will get on to the VDT's shortly, thanks.
I've got those probes coming in for tomorrow, so will hold tight. Found and cleaned the other ground on the engine. Will do VDT's on them today. I also located another thread regarding similar issues, the guy had it at the dealer where they replaced a zillion parts, still no fix and finally turned out to be the HST controller. My potentiometers have definitely been replaced at some point, so I have to wonder if the same thing happened and eventually the PO gave up... That HST controller is barried in there something fierce!
So I decided to use a Oxy/Acet tip cleaner to back probe the For/Rev potentiometers for ground and also the 5V on the orange wire. Both came back perfect.
TPS has good ground. Voltage at the orange wire is 6.81V
Probably time to gain access to the controller so I can complete the remaining diagnostics according to the service manual.
The only speed sensor you have (based on your serial) are mounted on the left side of the transmission if I recall correctly. Try unplugging that first.
Just had a peak and located it. I'll finish up my coffee and then will disconnect that and start the machine again. We did get the controller unbolted yesterday and it's hard to think why it would have been located in such a poor position for back probing. I have a plan to hole saw an opening into the side of the steel frame it's hidden by so so that we can disconnect it and loop the harness out into the cab for better access to testing. I also noticed the clip for the plug on the TPS was broken and once I temporarily zip-tied that back in tight, the reading was right at 5V.
I unplugged the sensor. No difference. No movement. However, just for a split second, I thought I heard the hydro (or something) bark, and then it was gone. Could have been something else I guess. Here are the codes. I guess they have slightly changed. LLSS - reverse pedal potentiometer SSLL - valve output to forward reverse solenoid coil LSLS - inching lever (creep) potentiometer LLLL - sensor supply voltage SLSS - forward pedal potentiometer
Doing any testing with a marginal battery can have you spinning your wheels. I would start with a brand new battery. I made a weatherpack breakout harness to test the forward/reverse pots on my 4310. (similar frame I think). Materials and tools needed: 1 – 3 pin Weatherpack male and female connector set 3 – 18-22 ga. T-taps 3 – 18-22 gauge male quick disconnects 1 – 4” 18ga blue wire 1 – 4” 18ga yellow wire 1 – 4” 18ga black wire 1 – Delphi Packard type crimper 1 – wire stripper
That's awesome - I had actually found your breakout harness on a previous post. I completely agree with you on the battery. That's where I started. It was functional, then removed, charged, terminals cleaned. Sits at 12.55V and rises when the engine is running. I also did my initial testing with a second battery in parallel. Pretty sure a new battery would not affect things. This machine has 6600 hrs, lived on a golf course, and aside from cosmetic damage and some pins that were left too long, it is very clean underneath, no damage, no butchered wiring or obvious wiring repairs. I do have the manual and am working my way through the diagnostics when I have time. Everything that I test seems to be coming back good, so I have to wonder if eventually I'll be buying a TCM. In fact, with this new to me machine, I kinda wonder if that's where the previous mechanic ended up and the owner decided to replace it rather than gamble on a TCM. It looks like both F/R potentiometers were replaced not that long ago and there are plenty of hoses, starter, alternator, so I assume it had some maintenance (LOL, when it finally wouldn't start). I don't even know if a TCM is even available - maybe that's why it was sold, lol.
Not saying this is what happened in your machine but a common problem I have read about is when someone screws up and puts a fuse in the transmission calibration slot. When you do that it wipes the transmission calibration out and it has to have that procedure followed to a tee to get it back working. Every time I read where someone did it they take days to get it resolved because they leave out one step or another on the re calibration. I read one where the guy went on for weeks and finally figured out he didn't have it in neutral with the brake set where it said to do it. These have the same controls as the 43XX series compact utility tractors with eHydro. You might find some threads over on the Green Tractor Talk forum that will help.
I have read about that too and have no idea if the previous owner/mechanic would have done that. Do you think there is any harm in trying the calibration at this point or would you recommend putting the fuse in first for the hard reset?
If the tractor won't move I would think you have nothing to lose. Look up the procedure in the manual and follow TO THE TEE!
Well, I do have the manual, and following everything to a tee, I can't even get past the first step after resetting with the fuse. Yes, the HST light come's on and stays. Then it's supposed to flash the forward pedal code, which it does, but before I can go through the 5 second process, it just starts flashing through some, but not all of the other codes previously noted. So there's no specific pause like there's supposed to be (I assume) for each specific calibration. And, even if I go through the motions for the first calibration, nothing changes. I tried it 4 times with the same result. Still gotta wonder about the TCM with 6600 hrs - but a pretty $$$ gamble.
It must have a hard fault somewhere. May be the TCM?
I’m working creating better access to the TCM so I can eventually try to go through more diagnostic back probing. I’m in no rush thankfully. Frankly speaking, I’m a few days away from a couple weeks of camping, away from my shop. Lol. That will be nice after 4 months 7-days a week, plus some eves. When I get back, I’ll keep picking away at the JD. It’s just going to be used on my property, so worst cast I’ve read of a guy who bought a machine that was modified with toggle switches under the pedals that were wired directly to the F/R solenoids. But worst case, it would at least be a temporary solution to get this thing moved away from the shop. Ha!
I'm sure you will get it eventually. Here is the HST Flowchart from page 175 in the manual I have.
Before spending a ton of time on it make sure the bell housing isn't cracked.
Absolutely. It’s kinda funny sniffing around the internet for any given machine, doesn’t take too long to find it’s faults, lol. I had heard of the bell housing cracks. This one is good. Had an easy life but definitely was ‘put away wet.’
Well, I'm back tot he swing of things and picking away on the 110. The bell housing is fine on my machine and it will only ever see light duty on the property, so it's good to know that I'll have to take it easy (so to speak). I did go ahead and replace the battery and clamps following the summer break as it had gone flat and was already quite wore torn. I am still getting the same 5 or 6 codes. When I go into calibration mode, it flashes for the forward potentiometer per the manual, but it won't actually calibrate. It flashes the forward P and then the 4 longs code for low system voltage, just the two. Very weird. So out of calibration mode, 5 or 6 codes, in calibration mode, it won't calibrate and flashes two codes. Can't see any other way forward but to try a new TCM. Thoughts?
Well, after months of waiting, JD finally made it down to flash my new TCM. No luck. The technician said that there is likely a fault in the wiring harness/plug/pin/corrosion/etc that is causing this grief. at 6000+ hours, perhaps it's time for a new wiring harness - start fresh.
Funny enough, the machine will actually go into calibration mode now, with the solid light when you swap the fuse into the hard reset position. However, it will not stop flashing the Forward Potentiometer light when take it through the reset. We even swap the plugs on the F/R pedals to see if it might just be a potentiometer, but no luck. So we have made some progress, but it just does not want to recognize the calibration process.
When you swap the fuse, you did it with the key off, correct?. Then when you start the machine and the code light is flashing, you placed the fuse back into its original position before you continued the calibration?
Pretty much what the manual is saying, except the code light comes on solid, then you pull the fuse and put it back into the storage location and this is when the calibration process begins and the light flashes for the first step.
Then the forward and reverse potentiometer voltages need to be checked.
That’s one of the first things I did. F/R pedals and TPS all good ground and voltage.
What specific voltages did you have with the pedals up, and the pedals down?
I will have to recheck and get back to you. Presently on lunch break at work, lol. If I recall, the voltage was supposed to be around 5.1V but can’t recall. As soon as I do those checks I will update the thread. Might be a few days at this point. Busy evenings with family and appointments.
Not the 5 volt reference, I need to know what the signal voltages are.
Ok will do. Thanks very much.
Signal voltages to both pedals is 4.92 For is 0.47 up and 3.56 down Rev is 0.50 up and 3.77 down Both potentiometers produce active readings through the full range of motions.
Spec is 0.6 - 0.9 volts up and 2.7 - 3.5 volts down. Make sure there is no debris preventing the pedals from making full travel, especially when up.
First dusting of snow on the ground this morning.....winter is upon us. Having reviewed the service manual this morning, I agree that the voltages are a little out of spec. I will double-check that after work and attempt to bring them back into spec. I was grounding to the negative battery terminal, so I will ground to the plug this time (my head was in another place). Here's a pic from my manual, although I don't have the JD test tool which is likely unnecessary anyways.
OK, so I finally got back on the 110 this afternoon and calibrated the F/R potentiometers. Then I put the unit back into calibration mode and made it all the way to the end and it flashed the ground speed sensor. So I went back under the tractor and saw that it was still disconnected from pervious diagnosing. I plugged it back in and went through the calibration again and...... It worked! So, on to some other issues. 1) The inching only works in forward, not reverse. Could be the switch I suppose. 2) The 4wd is not working. The driveshaft to the front axle is spinning, but when we have the front axle off of the ground in 4wd, the wheels don't turn LOL! So, that might be a job for the spring as it is starting to get close to regular freezing temps here now and snow is regularly being forecasted. If I had 4wd for this unit, I would probably get a new snow pusher for it though... Thanks for your help mg2361! I'm going to send you a PM.
Most likely. Replaced a few of them for that issue.
My son was back on the 110 yesterday. He pulled the switch and we carefully disassembled it and it's in perfect shape inside. Added some dielectric grease and reinstalled. Then we flipped the wiring at the ends to test it in the machine and it appears there must be a fault with the reverse wiring. Going forward is no problem. So perhaps we have stumbled across our first wiring issue. The funny thing is that he had just reinstalled the TCM, which you might know is quite the job because of how deep JD has it tucked away, load testing that wire will require some extra work again. LOL As for the the front wheel drive, it appears to be the external splined coupler. So we will have to explore that further and see if the splines on the input shaft driving the front axle have been partially or fully striped off. I hear that this is a known issue. -9C this morning...
Hi Gents, I’m a new member and hoping to revive this older thread. I have a 110 and it’s been excellent for me over my 15+ yrs of ownership. My son found one locally that he can get at a crazy price. Starts and runs fine and it recently had about 4k of work done to it. It’s got about 4k hours and has been used a lot harder than mine but with a little love I think it could serve him well. The seller said it did move forward when he got it recently but then would suddenly stop. He has tried a calibration that failed somewhere along the way and now it won’t move. I am not local to the tractor currently but I’ve seen pics. He can get the unit for much less than what they are selling for but he’s gun shy. The owner says he needs it gone so we can’t investigate it there prior to purchase. I’m very mechanical and with some support here I’m pretty confident we could resolve it but it’s my son’s call. Any thoughts or input are greatly appreciated
The potentiometers have to be set just right. The calibration took a few times for us to get it right. Every step has to be done just so. Also, when everything had been completed perfectly per above, we opted to replace the TCM which was very expensive, but that's indeed what the problem ended up being. Also, start with the simple stuff, all the grounds, seat switch, connections, etc. It takes time and patience. You will need a service manual. If the machine is cheap enough that you know it's got parts value, then just take a chance.
How much was the TCM and flashing it?
Flashing it was expensive. I think they charged me about 6 hrs labour including travel bevcause that were trying to download software in my driveway. The TCM, I can't remember, maybe $1500 or so. You can easily look that up online though.
So my son made the jump and bought the TLB. Overall it’s in pretty good shape. I put the #12 fuse in to start the calibration procedure to see what it had to say. The first code it is flashing is for the creep switch but I checked it and it’s functioning fine. While had the console open I removed a couple wires from the ignition switch that were added for the wipers in the enclosed cab and the I noticed that the switch for the signals was locked up so I knew that will need replacing but i also noticed it was warm even with the key off. I also noticed that the idle is below spec so I will need to adjust that prior to calibrating. Pulled the hard cab off except the windshield. Going to access the potentiometers to check voltages. Keeping my fingers crossed that the transmission controller is ok. Tried to remove the backhoe but it appears it’s never been off as the pins are locked in place. Have them soaked with Pipe Break and drilled out the one locked safety pin. I had the manual that I have on a CD printed so I can be ready to dig in a bit deeper over the next few nights
Congrats! The potentiometers for the pedals are accessed from underneath. clean up all the grounds. Use the wiring schematic to find them. Theres a bunch.
So I started to dig into the potentiometer issue. First I followed the calibration instructions but installing the #12 fuse and after removing it it flashed the right code to begin. Depressed, held and released the forward pedal and then it flashed two codes. The front land rear potentiometer codes. I pulled the pedal assy out thinking I could OHM test the potentiometers to see if I got a change in resistance as I depressed each pedal. There are three connections on the potentiometer and now matter what combination I use I do not get any change. Should I see resistance chance when depressing the pedal? I have the manual but the rear they explain requires the JD test kit. How can I test these out on the bench? Thanks!!!
You have to back probe them on the machine and then loosen the mounting hardware and rotate the potentiometer until it's (the voltage) within spec. Do this for each one. I hope that makes sense. I think it was discussed in the tread previously or perhaps I got the info from the manual.
I just reread the thread again. Very clear on the 5volts on the orange supply wire and also up up and down voltages. I will reinstall and verify and adjust as needed. I also realize that I failed to follow the instructions. Didn’t have it in neutral with the park brake disengaged. I will do that and try calibration again to see what happens
Once we had all the repairs/adjustments done, it still took us a couple tries to get through the reset procedure without messing it up.
I checked the forward and reverse potentiometers and both are being supplied a solid 5 volts. Checked the at rest and full down voltages. One was .8 at rest so I adjusted it in spec. Tried starting the calibration again and it stays flashing the forward potentiometer code. Any thoughts are appreciated Thanks!
Can you trying swapping the forward and reverse potentiometers and then that my elude to a faulty unit?
Will do
Ok, I swapped the plugs between the forward and reverse potentiometers and now the calibration will not acknowledge the reverse potentiometer which for this test is actually the forward one so it appears to forward one is an issue despite the fact that all of the voltages are correct. Seems strange. Do they fail even though voltage input and outputs are correct? Just trying to to confirm before I order one. Also, I see JD thinks a lot of theirs at about $300 but I see others that fit a ton of JD applications for under $100. I would imagine that the less expensive ones are a match?
@Chargerman What is the serial number of your machine? Also, what voltages did you set it to? What are your at rest and fully depressed voltages specifically?
Serial number is LV0110T312400 Forward voltages Input 5.0 volt At rest .639 Down 4.5 Reverse Input 5.0 volts At rest .632 Down 4.5
According to your serial number, your down voltages are out of range. At rest should be 0.6-0.9 Down should be 2.7-3.5 volts above the "at rest" voltage. Make little spacers to put under your pedals to get the voltage where it needs to be to see if you can "cheat" the system when you calibrate.
Ok so some progress has been made. First of all when I did my voltage reading I had the assy unbolted from the floorboard. When I put it back in place and rechecked they are within the high spec that mg mentioned. Proceeded with the calibration once again and made smooth progress until I got to the “Proportional Solenoid Valve Thresholds calibration” . I set the engine speed to high idle as specified with the “A” ground speed selected. Wheels never moved. I have read where others had to bring the engine speed down to be able to get through this stage and I tried that but no luck. Am I missing something? Thanks once again for your help!
Was the park brake released, MFWD off and the rear wheels off the ground? Also, the wheels will only "twitch", they will not "move". It can also take quite a long time. How long did you wait? After the throttle calibration, make sure the throttle stays at full throttle when you move on to the threshold calibration. I assume the code light changed to two short and two long flashes after the throttle calibration? If it did not, you may have to adjust the throttle potentiometer.
Tried completing the calibration after finding that I did leave the parking brake on. It was flashing the SSLL code and when I run the engine at high and hold the forward pedal after a bit it continues to flash the same code along with SLSS for the forward potentiometer in rotation
If you have SLSS after trying the forward threshold, it tells me the voltage for the forward potentiometer is not correct.
It’s funny that it took the initial calibration for that sensor but not at that last step but I will check the voltages again. Thanks
I had machines that have taken a half dozen attempts to successfully complete a calibration.
Back at it tonight for another attempt. Upper voltage was borderline on the forward pedal so as suggested I used a piece of wood to limit the travel Of the forward pedal and reset and started again. Got to the proportional valve set again and no wheel movement. Tried a couple times and now it’s flashing all 5 codes. Called it a night. A bit worried that I may be experiencing what Tractorbuds did and the controller has an issue. I will try it fresh again tomorrow as I was a bit frustrated tonight after a couple brick walls. The backhoe attachment pins a frozen and will need to rig a setup for my pin press as heating one only gave up about a 1/16” of movement
Spent a good amount of time today getting the backhoe pins out. Took a while to find a solution to remove the first one. Once out it only took about 1/2 hr to get the second one out. Used a 20ton jack in between the pins with a 1 1/4” rod welded to a plate for stability. That didn’t budge them so drilled and tapped 3/4-20 from the outside and put a bolt thru a 3/4 drive socket that was big enough to rest against the casting. Loaded the bolt up with a 3’ breaker bar and fully loaded the jack also and they still didn’t move until heating the center section with acetylene and then add more jack pressure while cranking on the bolt. Extreme pressure but they finally broke free. Tomorrow I’ll try another calibration attempt
Ok, another couple calibration attempts tonight. Both times it displayed the same two codes after the throttle position sensor was done. SLLS and SSLL. SLLS being the engine speed sensor and the SSLL being the next code in the calibration process. Will look at the speed sensor connection tomorrow as I wasn’t in work gear to get into it. It looks like the test for the speed sensor involves a Htz reading. I don’t have a meter with that capability. I’ll confirm the 5 volt input and check the wiring, connector and ground
Your serial number indicates you have a potentiometer mounted at the injection pump on the linkage. That is just a 5 volt circuit that sends a variable voltage back to the TCU. The older serial number machine's used a speed sensor that sends a Hz reading.
Thanks mg for hanging in there with me in this. I will check the voltages on that sensor tonight. It appears my manual is for an earlier year. Is there a good way to test that potentiometer and if so what the voltages should be. Also, based on the serial number what year is this unit and can you tell me the year of my tractor LV0110T511623
LV0110T511623 Built in August 2006. LV0110T312400 Built in August 2004. The Technical manual is TM1987. That is for all the 110"s, regardless of the serial. It should differentiate the differences with serial number breaks within the manual. The latest version was published in 2016.
Check the potentiometer for engine speed. 5 volts is good. At rest voltage was about .75 Ran the engine up to high end and output voltage was only 2.7. My manual is TM 1987 but it was printed in June 2002. Looks like I will need to search for a newer one. Can you tell me what the voltage should be for this potentiometer?
Idle: 0.6-1.0 volts Fast: 2.0-3.4 volts above low idle voltage.
So happy. Got through the calibration successfully…….finally!!!!! Thanks so much for your help mg2361! Very much appreciated!
Next thinks are rebuilding one of the boom cylinders and then the big one. Pull the motor for a rebuild. Based on the serial number and build timing are you able to tell me which motor it has?
Other than it is a Yanmar, no. What you need to do is look at the top of the rocker arm cover, under the air cleaner. There will be a tag with the engine serial number (which is CH4022D001758), and another number, which you will need when ordering parts. It will read something like 4TNV88-BMJTLB, 4TNV84-EJTLB, etc.
Ok, thanks once again. Do you know of any good used parts sources? Need a floor pan, a floor mat, backhoe attachment pins and a front signal lens
Try Wengers
Thanks. Found everything I was looking for except the floorboard. This tractor doesn’t have the front auxiliary hydraulics like mine has. The parts tractor has them. He would sell me everything off of the parts tractor for $450. Can this option be added to my son’s tractor? He would include the pump for that price but not sure if I would need it? Also, what about the wiring for the handle switches? Just ran out and looked at my tractor that has this option and it looks like an easy install. Going to buy it complete
Ended up not going forward with the purchase of the parts as it got questionable regarding the source. I did call Wengers and they have a couple. Gave them my needs and hope to hear back soon. Moving the tractor around today and twice while moving forward it stopped and flashed the forward potentiometer code. Let off the pedal and then back down and it moved ahead again. Does this sound like that forward potentiometer is suspect and should be replaced?
Maybe. The wiring could be suspect as well.
I know it’s been a while but here’s the latest. I was worried about what I was sure was an engine knock when letting off the throttle and also the rear main seal was leaking so I split the tractor and pulled the motor. Found a spun main bearing so the mains will be line honed. Cylinders look mint but will perform a complete rebuild.
Wow, glad you caught that, but definitely no fun at all. Sorry to hear of this news.
Ya, it sucks but my son is still in good shape regarding cost since he paid way low for it and considering his Dad’s free labor. Haha